P-51B Mustang | No sound

The P-51D from here (images.app.goo...) sparkled the idea for this build. Except I built the B variant.
Note on the video quality: I tried a new way of recording my work. However, it turned out that many of the recorded video clips were damaged. I managed to save most of them, but some artifacts still show up in the final rendering of the video. This is sad :-(
Also, no sounds this time. I am tired of fighting with KZbin and proving that I am taking the music from public domain and therefore there is no copyright claim. I do not like the idea of using KZbin music library - it does not fit my "vision" of what these "little" videos should be. So this is still a thing to experiment with in future.
Album with pictures of the model is on flic.kr/s/aHsm...
Kit:
Trumpeter 1:32 P-51B Mustang II (02274)
Aftermarket parts:
Aires 1:32 P-51B Mustang wheel bay (2082)
Aires 1:32 P-51B/C Mustang cockpit set (2079)

[@daneshivers2921]

Nice job, David. Everyone bellyaches about the brown tint. I had read somewhere that ground crews would wax their planes for speed. Unfortunately the tint was from the brown shoe polish used to buff them up....hence the brown staining. P-47's got it too. Hey, polish is polish...ya use what ya got. Thanks, Dane

[@steveproctor1748]

I built the 1/48 scale Monogram version of that plane many times back in the 60s. I loved building those kit's when I was a kid.

[@robbo1068]

Terrific build! I didn't mind no sound....no distractions from watching the whole process. Well done, David.

[@DavidAndrs80]

Hi Robbo! I have noticed on last few videos that I was able to watch them and was not missing the music at all. Glad to hear I am not alone. After all this is more about the visual aspect rather then the audio :-) I think, I want to try to record some ambient sounds from the workshop while I am building and see if that could work - just an idea. Also, thank you for your comment!

[@robbo1068]

@@DavidAndrs80 You are welcome.....the pleasure is all mine! Interesting idea re the ambient workshop sound.....might be something to try.

[@schlookie]

Love it! I've got the Accurate Minatures kit of this variant in 47th scale

[@thebuff4120]

Very Good build David. Could I recommend placing on the video the paint type and mix (with thinner etc) and air pressure used. People can then follow the build with the same approach. Thank you.

[@DavidAndrs80]

Hi! Thanks for your comment and suggestion. I think I understand what you are saying. However, when I decided that I wanted to make more YT video, I was thinking what kind of videos I want to make. Generally, I see several types of videos related to model making: (a) how I build model XYZ (typical example is Scale-a-ton: kzbin.info), (b) look, we made a thing! (like what they do on minibricks: kzbin.info_co), (c) vlogging (like what Matt does on DoogsModels: kzbin.info). I, personally, lean towards (b), because, frankly, it is the simplest one to make IMO. I think if (a) is supposed to be useful to others, the video would have to be much much longer. And include information on like "here is a fit problem", etc. And also, what audience should I assume: novice modeler? intermediate one? Because, that would directly affect how much information I need to communicate in the video. And this IMO is very difficult to do right. Don't get me wrong, videos like this are useful and kudos to people who make them. I just don't have that much time to invest into something like that. Because, that would be what I would do if I decided on type (a) videos. May be, I will try to make one like that in future, but right now, it is not on my radar. Or, may be, I am overthinking this approach - could be... With that said, I don't mind sharing details of the build in comments. Or, I can put that information into the video description - it is no secret. TL;DR: And now to finally answer your question: My main paint system for airbrushing is Tamiya acrylics. Usually thinned 1 part paint, 2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (yellow cap). For small detailed work the ratio can go up to 1:5. As for the air pressure: I am not able to tell you, since my compressor does not have a pressure gauge (it goes from 12 to 30 psi). For large volume work like spraying a clear coat, I go with values towards the upper limit. For small work, like spraying thin lines and mottling, I am using values at the lower end. The other paints I use for airbrushing are MRP (mrpaint.sk). They are airbrush ready, so I don't thin them more. Also, feel free to ask, if you have more questions.

[@fredflintstone3714]

How do you get parts to stay glued together when both parts are painted ?

[@craigwest8386]

excellent

[@fasold2164]

The "needle stitch holes" on the surfaces of the wing, depicting rivets, are certainly not correct. The wings of the Mustang had a laminar flow profile which generated only low drag, thus increasing speed considerably. The wing surfaces were carefully sealed and sanded to get a smooth surface. So the rivets of the model are totally wrong! Just gluing together parts and taking a lot of effort to weather the model does not necessarily create an outstanding model...

[@paulmoore5401]

Did you not have to fill/sand any seams?

[@louisbabyCT]

I noticed you didn't prime the parts before spraying. What paints are you using?

[@DavidAndrs80]

The interior was not primed before painting, you are right about that. But, the model was primed with Tamiya's grey surfacer. It is just that spraying gray primer over gray plastic is not really visible on the video, so I typically skip that step, because IMO it does not bring anything to the table... And to answer your question about the paint: it is just Tamiya.

[@mooshoopork63]

I really like the homemade decals, Where did you get the blank wet transfer decal paper? Is it a specific brand?

[@DavidAndrs80]

Hi Matthew! The tutorial I learnt this from (and which I cannot find again :-( ) said it has to be Sunnyscopa Type A. They did not explain why, though. Also, you have to use a decal solution with decal glue - they recommended Mr. Mark Setter (the blue one). This seems to work fine, but this process leaves a little ridge around the carrier film after the wet transfer dries. I don't get this behavior with the HGW wet transfers, for example. Just an heads-up.

[@daneshivers2921]

Just an add-on...anyone notice the lack of shell ejector chutes under the wings?

[@paulmoore5401]

Yes. Well actually I read about it in one of the reviews.

[@scarletstyle3846]

Какой масштаб 1/32? Кто производитель?

[@DavidAndrs80]

1:32 from Trumpeter. More details in the video description. (Reply is in English - I don't speak/write Russian, so I used google translate for your comment - hopefully that's what you are asking...)

[@plan4u56]

Nice Job...Brown??? I have seen old color photos of O.D. Mustangs and they are Not Brown.... The lighting faded paint Can cast a "Brownish" hue to the Olive drab color.... Artistic License.....Yes the old 1/48 monogram P-51B DING HAO white box issue has a photo of the model on the box... The Olive Drab has a Brownish cast to it......Is the top color Olive drab with brown mixed in it or is it Just Brown? Regardless Great job.... Blessings Darrell Killingsworth

[@DavidAndrs80]

Hi Darrell! It is just brown, the explanation is in the video description. Cheers!

[@AreeyaKKC]

There is no right or wrong olive drab. They all faded different depending on manufacturer of aircraft and paint. Date of mixing. Weather. And other variables.

[@MrWiking61]

colour olive drab rather weird

[@DavidAndrs80]

Yes... Maybe you did not read the video description? It says there why...