P for Professional

[@danieldarks3721]

I happily agree with Peter. The camera auto settings are trying to get the average all over the image so will make everything grey and dull. If you look at the difference between the auto pics and Peters manual pics you can see his manual ones are much more interesting because there is shadow and light in the picture instead of overall greyness. This brings the subject to life and shows them in a good way. Surely the point of having a camera is to make it take the picture you want. However, you use it to do this.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks Daniel

[@alvaronieto2734]

The pragmatic approach based on experience makes for invaluable tips. Thanks again.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@alvaronieto2734]

Just wanted to let you know I have implemented your advice, or at least copied your way, even without “seeing the light” as easily as you do at that moment, but when I looked at the picts later I noticed how good the lighting was regardless that I didn’t have the presence of mind to see everything in real time. Following your tips works even if I don’t. 😂 Amazing! Thanks again.

[@marklloyd69]

It was a conscious decision that when I stepped up to a DSLR I wouldn’t use any of the auto/priority settings - everything had to be manual. The first few months were a steep and somewhat tedious learning curve, but now it’s second nature and far more involved. They’re my images, my composition and my interpretation of what’s needed. Makes a big difference in my opinion. Thanks for the continued guidance for us amateurs.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks so much for watching

[@garyrowe58]

Were you using a separate light meter? ;-) The camera has loads of metering options, some (e.g. marrix metering) involving a computer to analyse the light and dark areas of the picture so it can adapt the readings accordingly!!! So I hope you are avoiding such settings!

[@andrewmortimer3317]

Learning to shoot a camera in manual mode improved my photography more than anything else. I had to learn how functions interacted with each other on a deeper level. Auto mode has its place- I can hand my camera, in auto, to my kids and let them develop an eye for seeing the world around them through a lens. Great video as always Peter.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks heaps

[@alan.macrae]

Peter, these "Sunday Shorts", as I call them, are terrific. Just writing this note now but, watched it late last night here in the US. Thank you for always providing such great content. Stay safe and healthy! Cheers!

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks for watching

[@corbinpearce7686]

I grew up with a Pro-sumer dad, and a professional sports shooter as our across the street neighbor and friend. Even though I didn't get into photography until my final year of college, somewhere in that upbringing I learned the lesson to basically always use manual. So when I started learning, even though it was a bit of a struggle at first, I taught myself on full manual settings from the get go. I'm very glad I did, because of exactly what you've said. The control it offers keeps you intentional, and by extension, produce better work. I've also just found that auto is unreliable, and tends to overexpose.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@lensman5762]

Words of wisdom, clearly spoken.

[@AK-hk2pd]

Thank you for the demonstration team. You are the best.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@McShaganpronouncedShaegen]

Have been away for a wile so it's nice to see a familiar face in front and behind the camera as well as an intro by Bec.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Welcome back!

[@johng5819]

Shooting in Professional (P) mode, I've lost a lot of pictures to motion blur. I quickly learned Manual mode and I've never looked back. Great video to show new shooters what they are missing.

[@garyrowe58]

I use P when wandering around do I can snap without thinking if something happens suddenly. Then I have a really quick option available for the second shoot, by rolling the wheel that adjusts the aperture/shutter settings. Then when I have a moment before taking any more, I can choose the right settings for continued shooting - if there's still an image of interest. Horses for courses ...

[@arneheeringa96]

So much to learn for me, especially with a digital camera. At 12 I got gifted a half automatic camera and struggling ever since. So you couldn't take pics into the light and so on, untill I saw the work of the uncle of my ex-wife who loved shooting into the light. Now I do it too, but only with analog cameras. With digital I shot almost only compacts, which are automatic anyway. I once bought a Sigma SD10 but it wasn't my thing. Batteries were always empty. AWB didn't work at all (from this video I have learned I could take a preset like daylight or something, just hadn't thought about that). I had to learn digital processing, but I hated it because I sit behind a computer the whole day for work and wanted to spent time with the family when I got home finally. So I settled for SOOC JPEG (Digital C41...) and kept shooting film with manual cameras, developing BW film myself. Slides were nice, but I gave up on colour because the cheap labs gave you shitty prints and shitty scans in comparison to the old days. Bob Holmes spoke some wise words too: one should learn to see the light not as we see it, but as the camera sees it.

[@PhotoTrekr]

I usually shoot in A for Awesome unless my subject is moving and shutter speed is the more important setting. Or unless I want to control the shutter speed to get get the effect I want like with waterfalls. I don't worry too much about ISO these days unless it's getting really high for the exposure. Photography is about using the controls on the camera to get the photo you want.

[@earlsreid4130]

Love this tutorial, I started my photography journey in the early 70's when everything was manual and film was a 36 exposure roll. You had to understand the exposure and especially the quality of light. Present day many shooters want to use auto everything , but don't want to learn what is happening in their photo. I always teach to learn manual settings and it will improve how you see your image, but mostly I get, OK, Boomer. That's all right, I still use manual and appreciate my pictures more because I created it.

[@Govannonart]

P for professionals, M for MASTERS ) From the very beginning of my journey into digital photography I shot only in M mode, tried couple of time Av, didn't work for me. Once again thanks for sharing your wisdom with us, Peter. Bec and RaRa are always gorgeous

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@alexugljesic]

Great video as usual. Don't be afraid of manual. I am photographing cars, and all sorts of reflections from car body, glass and chrome will totally confuse any "auto" mode...

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks Yes

[@carlwarrenphoto]

Thank you nice to relax on the start of my days off !

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks for watching

[@nmelcam1]

First off, really love you guys, Peter a little less that Bec hahaha. I do not understand why people think that P is for Professional when in the manuals it clearly states that P is Program Mode. Read the cameras manuals LOL I say this because the P is for Professionals actually confuses beginners, just call it what the manufacturer calls it Program Mode.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

"P is for professional" is what we say as a joke 😁

[@nmelcam1]

@@PeterCoulsonPhotographer 😂😂😂

[@TwistedRealm]

Full manual, occasionally with auto iso (limited to a range that has acceptable noise), centre-weighted metering (not spot or full average) half-press get reading, recompose and shoot - its quick af, manual white balance (makes zero difference shooting raw anyway) but I like to dial in where I think it should be for previews. Yes you may miss a couple of shots if your light is changing drastically, the latitude a raw file gives you can compensate for 1-2 stops if you occasionally get it wong. Better to know how your sensor and iso range work in over and under exposed images than to procrastonate about hitting perfect exposure in fast chainging situations. For flat consistant work in a studio, if your f-stop is consistant on the lens then you just don't need anything auto other than focus if you want.

[@hawkDan60]

Peter I always look forward to your postings, always inspirational!! Personally I use Aperture Priority and prefer natural outdoor lighting.

[@gapcreekonline948]

Great points 👍🏼

[@David.G.P.]

Many thanks for this new backstage session! @Bec: Many thanks for being present in this session. Now that you are in Europe, I wish you can make the most of it. In the past I had an English teacher, from USA, and in one occasion she told me that in Europe she could quickly go from one country to other one, and enjoy their diversity. Regardless where you are, stay away from those who intent to destroy the work that other try to create with efforts, never forget it. @Rara: Many thanks for posing in this session. I have more for you, but it will come in a later backstage session. @Peter: I would tell you my experience, with my old camera. One of the first things I learnt was the basic exposure modes: P, A, S and M. And my impression was that the first ones were made to facilitate the photography; but the latter one was a kind of primitive mode, so I tried to learn when and how to use these three ones. And this reminds me when I was a child and I received a drawing with black lines and I had to learn to paint guided by these limits, inside them, otherwise there would be a penalty. And many decades after I learnt to take photographs within similar rules: P, A and S, to ensure success. And it worked, my photographs were fine, why to use the manual exposure if someone already designed these three evolved modes? And the answer is very simple: was I prepared to paint, with my camera, outside these modes? And the answer was: "no"; so I switched to Manual exposure. Some of my current photographs still have serious exposure issues that I have to fix in retouching, but this doesn't worry me, because I have decided to switch my mind: why to use the three restricted exposure modes if Manual exposure provides true photography exposure freedom?

[@WayneLeary]

Good work!

[@DennisMathias]

Now, even I know that there is a difference between incident metering and reflected metering. In a studio you can go with incident metering. Or if you insist, an 18% reflectance gray card. Once that is set you don't need automatic. And the light or the camera does not need you. So you eliminate compensating for highlights and shadows because it's baked in the physics and theoretically the exposure will be perfect assuming you've punched in the right ISO//ASA. I'm not getting the angst here. That said, I am not a professional photographer although I've grappled with the idea. But I'm more technical than creative. And that may explain my pedantic nature on certain subjects. I remember messing with Minolta's Spot Meter. That was an eye opener but I always came back to the Sekonic L328. Now all the reflectance measurements are built-in to cameras--and iphones. Balancing the lights is an art and a flat incidence sensor as opposed to the half dome can help but I usually just used my eye at that part. But those were film days. And any shot is well exposed if you bracket enough. Right? Ah, but then there's Lightroom. And you were talking about saving and wasting time. You can't really know what that shot really looks like until you settle into a nice darkened and comfortable room with a glass of wine. Then you can look at exposures in all the right places and stew over whether you should modify or not. I envy your having a studio. And I know that you are very well studied. And you have the resources to hire models in a simple studio backdrop. Simplicity is not without its virtues. I really enjoy your sessions and as much, I enjoy seeing you enjoy your profession. You can be very proud of your work.

[@d.k.1394]

Great video well xplained

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@billmcfadden4791]

whether you use auto functions or not, modern technology allows for several auto settings. sports photographers who shoot in the minute with deadlines right after game have to depend on TV mode for Canon and JPEG. The subject and background change too quickly to show entirely manually for most folks shooting sports, studio photography is leaning towards using TTL to establish an initial exposure instead of using tethered or light meter to check exposure. change from TTL to manual once that initial exposure is done and adjust from there.

[@lohikarhu734]

yes.... although, on the good old Canon T-90, the P mode had about 6 different settings to balance, at least, depth of field, shutter speed vs. F-stop, so that one could leave some basic stuff alone, but also change exposure by using the exposure lock... white balance is always an issue with digital, but E-6 film was what it was ;-) Even the auto-focus often gives you something that isn't *quite* what was desired. Thanks, Peter.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks

[@robertmeredith5905]

I’ve heard you say this about using auto everything, got away from those settings. I now am concentrating on fully manual settings. My pictures are better, and my DSLR is easier to operate.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

M is for master 😁

[@GildedEntries]

I subscribe to the Bob Ross “happy accidents” philosophy. Most of the photos I’ve taken that I’m not embarrassed to show were shot manually, deliberately doing something that “Professional” mode would not have allowed. All credit to Nikkormat and Pentax Spotmatic cameras that taught me all manual, all the time mode because there was no other.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

YES

[@christopherjamesboudoir]

Whenever I shoot model portraits I am always in full manual. I would rather loose a potential photo because I didn't adjust my settings than because the camera was trying to go 18 percent gray at all times. That's not to say there aren't times some auto function is all bad. For a live event or concert having auto ISO is a life saver. I rarely go full auto.

[@RyanStone143]

The temp change at 6:10 caught my attention :)

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Auto with balance 😊

[@schwunsch]

Thanks for those great videos where you give a lot of insights and details about the way you work, has been very inspiring for me! Using full manual is definitely the long term goal, but what do you think about suggesting beginners to use AP mode (for example) just to have less variables to worry about? Photography and everything happening all at once can be very overwhelming and still is, even after a couple of years shooting.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks so much for watching. The problem with AP mode is people get addicted to it, it's like driving a car, once people go to automatic they rarely go back to manual :) Bec my assistant is not a photographer and she still films fully in manual, spend a bit more time on your set up and it will come with practice

[@edwardgreven7819]

Cool Explanation !!

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@KMantle]

SONY had the tri-navi system on the NEX-7. It was the perfect system for manual shooting. I should have bought 2. lol.

[@timip3658]

Hey Peter and bex, I just got myself a cable to tether and wondered how to do it? I bought after watching you for a while and hoping to start shooting at home Thank you

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

What camera do you have

[@AMGOSUK]

Hi Peter and Becks -- thanks for the vid and well how to respond -- YES I agree for work in a studio, BUT no not outdoors. I assume that you stuck with EC minus 1 EV for the rest of the shots you took when in P mode -- well no surprise that when you moved the camera over darkened when the reflected light of your model changed and obviously the background changed. Of all the cameras you could have chosen the Leica is probably one of those with the least effective AI. You could choose any flagship Nikon, Sony, Canon or Fuji and had more AI based controls -- let us just pick the latest Nikon toy the Z8 (your neighbour Matt Irwin had a copy) on top of Face/Eye subject tracking (and YES it works well) and all the normal exposure options the Z8 has 2 further tools: firstly "Matrix Metering Face Detection" -- b4 in the Z9 Custom Settings menu (probably the same in a Z8) this adjusts exposure for faces; next portrait impression balance (with portrait shooting, the camera helps achieve the intended result with the portrait impression balance function) -- it is unclear to those of us who do not yet have a Z8 yet how these work together. For those of us who want to leave some variability to the camera then we use Auto-ISO (often within limits). And finally there is the NEW skin-softening function - not that I~ see its use in stills, but it can also be used when shooting videos. A great many pros shoot events (yes that includes weddings) and they do "have to" run and gun in a whole range of lighting -- so many simply use Manual with Auto-ISO enabled adjusting Exposure Compensation similar to you to "knock back over exposure blinkies" - this is really fast on the when shooting with Nikon and the latest Z-lenses , which have control rings that can be used to vary EC settings. HOWEVER -- I do agree that control is key -- but there are trade offs with time available. Take the bride and groom Or bride and bride's father dances -- this is real time not a time to hunt for the right settings so one lets the camera do its part AND the latest gen cameras are doing it better and better -- not remotely full AI google automated driving -- but one learns how these tools work and use them when they will provide better results quicker than our older ways of doing it.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

I am an artist and I want full control over everything, I also find when I'm in any auto mode I lose my creative feel and only get happy snaps

[@AMGOSUK]

@@PeterCoulsonPhotographer Peter I don't disagree -- but others have other needs or use cases and so are content to be a little more reliant on the new tools when they need to work fast in variable lighting. Anyway. Enjoy shooting.

[@jimpurcell]

Well explained

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thank you

[@__--JY-Moe--__]

yup!

[@sixtiethofasecond]

Totally agree - until you get to autofocus. Surely the eye Mystro which is you, cannot like eye autofocus?

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

P for professional was about exposure not focus 😁

[@orlindosouza1592]

❤❤

[@abidnego5974]

when i shoot football (american, not soccer) i set my camera manually but will run auto ISO because i shoot high school football and the lighting is generally abysmal. this gives me a boost in sensitivity when the action is deep in the dark corners of the field. not that it really matters that much because by the time the games get going, im at 12,800 for most of the game anyway. i wouldnt necessarily say youre depending on the camera maker's AI. the meter is making the decision on what your exposure settings will be based on the age-old standard of 18% gray

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Yeah this video was aimed at what I do which is portrait, fashion and art. When it comes to sport, I'm not the best person to talk about settings because that's not what I do :)

[@martij75]

I use semi-automatic modes - shutter or aperture priority when shooting landscapes or action sports. With my limited experience with modelling I shoot in manual - bar white balance. As the focus goes - I totally rely on autofocus 99.99% of time.

[@cecilsharps]

the only advance feature i let the camera control is an interval timer. the only reason i learned how to do that is i cant screw in a shutter release cable and spending the coin on an electronic one seems silly. Just another piece of clutter i can't find when i need it.

[@paulfarland4855]

I always shoot in manual mode but not for shooting pictures of kids there just to fast 😊.Paul

[@BrianKilgoreCanada]

more like this would be a good idea. --BAK--

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Thanks

[@bigrobotnewstoday1436]

When shooting in P Mode if you hit the AEL button your exposure does not change even if you walk around.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Yes but every time you take a photo you have to press it again

[@rockercover]

About the only setting that requires manual intervention on my rig is the White-Balance setting - Otherwise “Auto-mode” makes it so much easier for on the go / action photography, for me. 😊

[@vdan2879]

Can anyone tell me what the arm is called? It's not a tripod obviously.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Its called a camera stand, Peter's camera stand: The brand of stand he uses has been discontinued, but this is very similar www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4986-REG/Manfrotto_816_Super_Salon_280_Camera.html

[@vdan2879]

@@PeterCoulsonPhotographer Thanks mate.

[@chriscanon5278]

Was hoping you were going to shoot full auto then compare it to your settings. Exposer compensation changes the image. Also not sure what metering mode you are using, but that would account for changes as you zoom in and move around. If you use spot on the model she would have stayed the same but the surroundings would change. I agree that you want the most information in your original shot which would usually mean a pretty flat and unattractive shot (raw) til you bend it in post.

[@emanuelbief7088]

Im always shooting in bad light places hahaha & my images are always dark 😢

[@damianmidro4500]

Clean the sensor on your video camera:)

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

why

[@damianmidro4500]

@@PeterCoulsonPhotographer The sensor has dust or watermarks on it. They show up clearly in the video footage.

[@severgun]

M for master

[@d.k.1394]

Agree

[@KenJones1961]

The problem with any auto mode is in the metering. Nothing more. If there was a setting that would check the 50% center of the viewfinder and make the brightest part as just short of clipping, that'd the cat's meow. I don't know of a camera that does that. From the videos I've watched of Peter's that's what he's looking for. The metering takes an average of the scene in differing sizes from spot to center weighted to average, etc. That's not what Peter's looking for. Everything is right at or just short of clipping in the important part of the image.

[@uwetrenkner9716]

If you are a press photographer or a wedding photographer you will praise those automatics. If you are carefully selecting light sources, light shapers regulating each source individually and then switch the camera to auto??? Why??? Neverever. Those automated settings are not wrong or useless. You have to know what you want to achieve.

[@dangilmore9724]

I never shoot in anything but full manual. Using automatic modes is like getting in a car with a drunk driver, if you catch my drift.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

I agree thank you

[@draganbalzic4493]

I thought "P" stood for "Pretending (to be Professional)", "Praying" for good results, or Please don’t look like 💩💩💩

[@chumleyk]

Your auto settings were set to full-frame average rather than spot or center-weighted metering. All are auto but one, in this scenario is worse, and that was the one you were using.

[@dfcdvr]

Yea. Using correct metering mode will mostly solve what Peter talking about with exposure jumps.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Spot is even worse you have to manually move the spot if you want a different composition, in full manual you don't have to change anything, Auto is for Ai photographers not artists 😁

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

no spot sets the exposure on where the spot is if you change your compersition you have to move the spot, that takes time and you miss the shot.

[@ndnbutler503]

Ya I guess it depends on if you’re using auto focus or manually focusing. I see both sides. I manually adjust my exposure so I’m not exactly sure how spot metering works but does it lock in on an exposure setting once focus is locked? (Via autofocus) or if you focus and recompose, does it readjust exposure once recomposed? If you’re manually focusing then it seems like you’d be better off manually adjusting everything. There’s a balance to technology and art for sure though.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Yes Ai or art

[@jklphoto]

There's really nothing wrong with P-mode for continous light, of course Aperture mode would be my preference. Far too many young people think that shooting manually makes them more professional. And it's nonsense. We only have Aperture and Shutter speed (and ISO with digital). I'd rather encourage students to understand light and composition. Also, understanding the difference between Reflected vs. Incident light metering would go a long way. Your in-camera meter is always going to be fooled by a white girl sitting in front of a black background. Like you, I shot film commercially for years. We didn't "fix it in-post". And it rubs us old-timers the wrong way to hear that, but we are not shooting transparency film anymore.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

"Your in-camera meter is always going to be fooled" that's why I dont use P A S

[@drivingintothedesertuntilt3202]

same for post processing, when people use presets, it looks awful and u cant do anything creative

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

Yes I agree

[@RS-Amsterdam]

😂 You do know P stands for "Pussy" mode. To make things even more auto, In the next generation of cameras there will be an "Award Winning Photo" button.

[@PeterCoulsonPhotographer]

lols

[@Dpul945]

I would never shoot P for Professional, as a wedding photographer I always shoot W for Weddings...

[@d.k.1394]

P= profesional? Lol

[@alvaronieto2734]

The pragmatic approach based on experience makes for invaluable tips. Thanks again.