Paint and Body Datsun 280Z - Bonus Footage

Enjoy this EXTRA BONUS footage from some of the last few days that didn't make it into the final cut for that given day of upload!
Body Seam Sealing and setting Panel Gap.
seam sealer - amzn.to/3rcnq6a
General adhesive cleaner- amzn.to/2NX3aaz
Spreaders - amzn.to/3cup3rS
Lint free towels -amzn.to/3tegLdD
FILLER
THE BEST - amzn.to/39tzxEP
Good filler - amzn.to/3nC5Rul
Glaze - amzn.to/3i8813J
Mixing board - amzn.to/3spWXUq
Spreaders
6" - amzn.to/39vGRzI
5" - amzn.to/35DoAzs
4" - amzn.to/2N11Oeq
Handled scrapper - amzn.to/3qAyU3b
Here's all the stuff I use to get the job done...and by all, I mean ALL of it.
Durablock set 7 piece kit - amzn.to/3bngvTd
Durablock set 6 piece kit - amzn.to/3s9fXWN
Durablock long board 24" - amzn.to/3q4ucKH
Durablock 16" board (my fav) amzn.to/3qb5vfX
soft block (wetsanding) - amzn.to/3brTq1A
flexible sander set (great for contours) - amzn.to/3nwpHXA
Guide Coat - amzn.to/2Lwssem
All the sandpaper you'll need
roll
40 - amzn.to/2Xt7kIJ
80 - amzn.to/2K0DsAn
180 - amzn.to/38tZvbV
320 - amzn.to/35saPDH
400 - amzn.to/3bo5FMF
600 - amzn.to/2LCaffi
Da sanding paper -
40 - amzn.to/38qt6mG
80 - amzn.to/3s9asrk
180 - amzn.to/2LC9Idi
320 - amzn.to/3nvLyP9
400 - amzn.to/2LDJBTf
600 - amzn.to/3ntYTHM
Scuff pads
maroon - amzn.to/3hWQcUY
grey - amzn.to/3oBoKio
scuff stuff paste - amzn.to/3pX7V1w
Amazon affiliates-We are a part of amazon affiliates and we do earn a tiny commission on the sales generated from you buying any product listed above through amazon but every penny goes back into the shop and these amazing projects. If you need something from the list below consider buying it through the link so we can continue to build and create awesome content for you to enjoy!
If you are looking for Datsun parts, don't forget to check prices on DatsunPartZ.com
Facebook page at / hcrmotorworks
or send us a message @HCRMotorWorks
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Twitter - @HCRMotorWorks

[@RestorationApprentice]

You're working hard and it shows. Car's looking great!

[@hcr-motorworks]

Thank you!

[@dyounggolfmaster]

Have you ever considered spending more time working on it? Ha Ha. I have truly enjoyed watching the process and have learned a lot. Protecting your fingers, eyes and lungs are key. Can't wait to see some paint go on. Keep up the great work.

[@hcr-motorworks]

I just need a solution for 30+hr days or less than 6hrs of sleep and I'll work harder!

[@mickosmith113]

Your panel work skills are great…good job mate👍

[@hcr-motorworks]

Thank you!

[@mickosmith113]

I have a 280zx myself And I have let it sit on my property for way to long ..and it has a fair bit of rust through it so I’m chasing rear quarter panels and Botton seals …I’m kicking myself I’ve let it sit for so long and didn’t put it in a garage ..I’m in a Australia so it’s hard to find these parts

[@hcr-motorworks]

@@mickosmith113 My other Z has sat for far too long as well so I know you struggle

[@mickosmith113]

I’ve got what might seem a silly question Is there a difference between a 280 z and a 280zx ? Just I noticed the rear side windows look smaller in your 280 well shorter..maybe it’s the older models that changed?

[@hcr-motorworks]

@@mickosmith113 yea 70-78 were the first gen 240/260/280 body then 79-83 were the 280zx

[@harley1793]

Great video sir

[@hcr-motorworks]

Thank you for watching!

[@Ryan-wf7sh]

Fantastic work! Has anyone ever told you that you sound a little like Ron Swanson? Should you have the door seals in place when setting panel gaps?

[@hcr-motorworks]

Ha never heard the Ron Swanson one before lol. I don't put the seals in place when gapping. I just gap front to back on the panels and that should not change with seals in place or not. The door striker, latch, hinges, and fender shims should take care of the rest of any panel placement issues.

[@shawnc1359]

I'm very new to body work, but I was not sure about using filler to close panel gaps. Is there any major risk of it chipping off? I assume standard Bondo might not be adequate? I'll check out more of your videos.

[@hcr-motorworks]

No major risk as long as it's an EVERCOAT product purchased using the link in the description lol. But in all seriousness keep any filler situation under an 1/8" on gaps and you'll be just fine. Any thicker and break out the tig and start welding rod onto the lips instead to fill the gap.

[@shawnc1359]

@@hcr-motorworks Thanks, I appreciate the clarification. I noticed though that the Evercoat products are designed to be applied to bare metal, rather than epoxy primer. Sounds like the manufacturer is recommending filler over bare metal, and then epoxy over the filler.

[@hcr-motorworks]

@@shawnc1359 As a general rule manufactures all want "their" product over bare metal to prevent any failures being blamed on "their" product. Many different chemicals are found in nearly every paint manufacturer out their and they don't want cross contamination being blamed for a particular failure. I prefer to put Epoxy down over 80 grit bare metal and then filler over epoxy within a few 24-48hrs without sanding, If I get outside of 72hrs before I put filler on I usually let the epoxy fully cure for a whole week and then I hit the epoxy with 80 grit and then filler goes on top of the sanded epoxy. collision world regularly uses filler on bare metal, Restoration shops routinely put epoxy on bare metal. In both scenarios that's the correct way to do it, I just prefer the restoration standard.

[@shawnc1359]

@@hcr-motorworks Ok, I see. Can you tell me what epoxy you're using? I thought there might be an Amazon link, but maybe the product you use isn't available there? I'm just getting started on a 240 restoration, and I think I'll need to strip to bare metal since it's been repainted once using an unknown type of paint (kind of acts like lacquer). Existing paint itself seems decent (rough paint job though), but I have various body work all over and a fair amount of rust.

[@hcr-motorworks]

@@shawnc1359 I wish I had an amazon link for it haha. Only two paint manufacturers I recommend are (SPI What I used) www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ and tamcopaint.com/ Solely due to their continued support of garage builders and education to the non pro painter. Have fun with stripping that lacquer!!! stay safe and let me know If I can help ya out any other way!

[@andrewturnock5665]

So my question is... what did/do you do for your wife to allow 8-18 hour days? Must have stored up some serious brownie points. Thanks for showing the gapping, you think you’re almost done with filler but nooooo. Queue several more days to get it right.

[@hcr-motorworks]

lol, the wife knows I can't function unless I'm building something! I'm not even going to show a complete rework of the roof...Wet sanding revealed two small areas that I wasn't completely satisfied with...Time to break out more filler and sandpaper haha

[@andrewturnock5665]

@@hcr-motorworks she’s a keeper then! Part of me thinks I should theme my rebuild as ‘army’ and paint it matt green, imperfections in panels and all, save couple hundred hours in body filler, high build, etc.

[@hcr-motorworks]

@@andrewturnock5665 Nah spend a few months and learn how to block sand! you'll be glad you did!