Paint Shop: Removable Scrap Loads

Episode #4
Join us as we make removable scrap loads for the Sayrehurst Secondary These cars will be used to move scrap steel to Continental Steel on the layout, and con be easily unloaded between sessions.

[@jackoesterlejr.3454]

Awesome! Just Outstanding! MoPac Jack

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you!

[@michaelbroshears3053]

Nice Joe! I just started working on a couple scrap processors and need a multitude. This looks pretty cool. I may randomly add styrene structural bits in to give some differences. Great idea on car ID underneath the load. So many cars are slightly different. You did a great video again. Keep them coming. Dive-Dive make your depth 75 feet!

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you, I glad this helps you. Dive request to relieve the inboard station steady on ordered course 270, all ahead full, on ordered depth 500 feet.

[@w.rustylane5650]

I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the kitchen grater I got at a dollar store. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elmer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee

[@thelostangler1938]

Very nice!

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks for watching!

[@TheNWPerry]

A good video Joe. You made it look so easy that many will try your methods I think, myself included! Although I don't know that the CEO will appreciate the unusual use of her blender! The rusted loads look great and add more diversity away from the manufactured car loads and as such will make a great addition to most trains, even if only passing through the layout. I was struck by the irony of the rusted car loads and the "shiny rails" Joe. LOL. Thanks for the video! Neil W

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks Neil! Yea I need to paint the track...lol! But thats coming soon!!

[@thomasboese3793]

Three points that may help next time: 1). make sure the plastic bottom piece is just undersized of the space it is going to fit into. This way it fits flat. 2). use some sort of clear flexible plastic bag or sheet and line the inside and bottom of the car and coat with a mold release. 3). with the liner in place, place the load carrier into the car and use an Acrylic Matt Medium thinned with water and isopropyl alcohol to glue/hold the load to the carrier. Once dry the plastic sheet/bag material will come off. You can wet the load material outside of the car with the Acrylic Matt Medium and then place it into the car and rewet as needed. By loading the carrier inside the car, the load's height can be kept below the top of the car sides as it should be and each load gets customized to the car it is in. If the car has inside ribs, make the carrier "float" above the ribs and put "legs" underneath for support. (Put the nut on the underside of the carrier, so the load does not go over the sides of the car.)

[@mikerubynfs]

I use cling film (saran wrap in the US?) to line cars before adding loads, stops the load sticking to the car and easy to peel off the load.

[@thomasboese3793]

@@mikerubynfs I didn't want to use a "brand name" without the symbol showing ownership/registered name. KZbin is getting harsh these days. But "that" stuff is the absolute best for this application.

[@mikerubynfs]

@@thomasboese3793 In the UK we just call it clingfilm a generic name used by several manufactures, I don't know of a US equivalent.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks for the input and thanks for watching!

[@thomasboese3793]

@@mikerubynfs In the US the "generic name" is Saran Wrap, much like "Kleenex is used here to describe facial tissues. Both are the top brand names in their line of products. The advertizers did their jobs a bit too well.

[@ricwolt]

I think it looks like great project, realistic and fun to do. Of course the cost savings is also a big plus. Another good video Thanks, Richard Brisbane Australia

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you glad you enjoyed!

[@jerrysmith1929]

Excellent looking loads.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you !

[@Mercatoyd]

Joe, the loads look great. The Conrail load that looks a bit heavy..it's foil..crush it down a wee bit..touch it up with paint if you have to. Another saver tip.. consider a tupperware container to weather in..it saves that excess powder and that can be kept in its own container as a catch all color for weathering. The paint shop series is a great addition to your channel. Tom

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

THanks Tom. Ok I will try it thanks for the tip!

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Joe, one project I can not do because my wife would kill me if I used her blender :) Nice idea, scrap loads look good.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks ! check the goodwill...get a used blender cheap!

[@ralphgreenwood5857]

Joe!! Those loads look great!! Crunchy and Rusty!!!

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks Ralph.

[@TheyMakeItLikeThat]

This turned out amazing! Great work

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you and thanks for watching!

[@25mfd]

Nice looking loads. But you forgot the MOST important step...only do this when the wife goes shopping cause if she catches you using the blender to shred aluminum foil, you're DEAD.

[@garykcs5532]

Great job Jo thanks for the info

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks Gary!

[@kraigdevries9639]

Great projects. Going to do some for ho gons. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Very cool!

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

They look great Joe, never thought of putting foil in the blender

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks for watching!

[@modelrailer]

Hell yea Joe!!!! They do look great!!!! I would like to see a comparison video. KUTGW brother!

[@ralphgreenwood5857]

Me too!!!

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you !

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

GOOD

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you!

[@jeffallen5698]

It looks Great!! A project I think would be fun to do..plus it's something you made instead of buying

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks Jeff! Glad you enjoyed.

[@telletran]

ever consider multiple segments of scrap with a smaller steel nut in each piece. then build an user controlled crane with an electromagnet to load / unload each segment. some additional fun?

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Interesting idea! Thanks for watching!

[@ottobettcher7025]

now you need some scrap pipe and fittings and other metal junk. also I find myself guessing as to what method you will be using before the video starts.have you thought about heating the gon's side and bulging it out like a heavy load smacked it or bent the top of the side down, just another option to model. Thanks.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks Otto. Yes maybe in the future I will try to put some "other" scrap in . I have tried the heat method by I always end up melting the cars lol.

[@trs-no8lm]

You can a little water to the glue I've done that it works

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Mastertech6]

cool!!

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

[@wilzdart]

would it be better to ca the first layer? What about using the paint after you blend? I really liked the show

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Never thought of trying the CA to glue the foil. The only issue I see with that is that you really get dirty with this method so you would end up with CA all over your fingers. If you paint the foil after it will tend to stick together.Thanks for watching!

[@gmcliff555]

I just watched this video, and wonder WHY u painted the foil different colors, in the beginning ? It seemed like a wasted step after colored them with rust.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Good question…I didn’t totally rust out the foil. In some spots the color shows through. It adds some depth to the material.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks for watching!

[@donaldkormos5529]

Great video!! You have given new life to an old blender I planned to give or throw away. Have you tried your method to make scrap piles as scenery on your layout?

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Not yet! But thats a great idea. Thanks for watching.

[@AverageOhioan1903]

is the nut for wheighting the car for different loads?

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

No pretty much the loads fit only one car. Thanks for watching!

[@bobbymoore4794]

I enjoyed the video, just needed a few less a and yum,s. Video was good.

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Thanks I try.

[@foscoe2496]

Did you use a nail file

[@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676]

Yes. They are great for sanding, cheap and easy to find. My wife keeps yelling at me, lol!