Painting a 3D Printed Green Dragon | Chameleon Colorshift Paints

In this video I use Green Stuff World Colorshift paints to paint the Green Dragon from The Lost Adventures: All-In-One 3D Printable Adventures Kickstarter:
www.kickstarter.com/projects/3dprintingdm/the-lost-adventures-all-in-one-3d-printable-adventures?ref=bn4whe&fbclid=IwAR0WnpR-DgA9bOf5rwmwHY01meV_rThiCLGvHF4LKGgKxAU0bCc8naFru50
Minis were supplied by Daniel Herrero from 3D Printed Tabletop:
kzbin.info/door/r_uz-iWzyR1VJNlN-E1y7w
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Liquitex Artist Ink: amzn.to/31Xt9A8
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Intro logo music licensed from Audio Jungle (Envato Market).
Intro animation licensed from Videohive (Envato Market).
Background music from KZbin audio library ("Don_t_Look", "Campfire Song").

[@GoobertownHobbies]

NICE! Great turn-around time on that dragon :-) That deep violet did some serious work- that final look you got is awesome, especially the face. I've had the same durability issues when using washes over ink- especially relatively fresh ink. I'm getting into the habit of varnishing over airbrushed inks before carrying on with washing and other steps. For minimizing spider webbing with inks I try to be extremely patient and gentle when laying them down. Being verrrrrry light on that trigger really has helped me. I use high pressure ~30 psi for whatever that's worth!

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Goobertown Hobbies thanks, and great tips for those inks!

[@rustedbeetle]

It was great to see your progress, how your attempts, your backtracking, your decisions as you went through the model. I think it is important to show the steps that don't make it to the final result as I feel some people get discouraged and stop when they realize they are going down a path that isn't working for them. I agree with Goobertown, if you have light or delicate layers, seal them with a matte coat before continuing. Lock down the work and keep it safe.

[@echodelta2426]

Very cool indeed. I like the look of the color-shift paint. I specially enjoyed hearing you work through the disappointments to finish with a masterpiece that you were happy with.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Thank you! I strive to include those moments for that reason.

[@kb9qne163]

In the great word of the legendary Bob Ross... there are no accidents just little happy trees.

[@kb9qne163]

Keep hitting the paint and some times you just strike gold.

[@RyngsRaccoon]

I am sure someone might have said it by now, but... When I use inks through an airbrush, I don't dilute them, or cut them with airbrush thinners. If you do, they "may" have adhesion issues, but inks being as thin as they are, can have adhesion issues on smooth surfaces without additives or thinning. To remedy this -after the ink is applied and thoroughly dry- I use an air brushed on coat of Acrylic medium. It dries clear and seals in the inks or any other paint so the next layers will not cause your brush strokes to wipe away previous work... I hope that helps. Also, that is an amazing dragon sculpt! I want one! :P

[@sheffdog9376]

Hello I am new and yes the date I have found this video in my feed is 6/17/2021 that is correct 2021, I needed this video in 2019. I am glad I am able to view this video to help me with my craft and my 7 year old daughters craft. My daughter is a big fan of the wonderful world of miniatures as am I it is a fantastic and amazing thing to be able to use both imagination and what skills one learns over time and apply it to both miniatures and the story that is created from the craft. Anyway I digress Thank You for the video my daughter and I love it and are both glad and grateful that you made it and posted it. Thank you.👍👍💖

[@swordnsteele712]

So pretty 😍

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Sword 'n' Steele thanks!

[@philRminiatures]

Such a fantastic and impressive paintjob, green shades are awesome!👍👍

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Phil R thank you!

[@kikkauazza]

Wicked paint

[@aaronblount3999]

I love the liquitex acrylic inks. I just started learning how to air brush, and they are my go to. They also work out when I need a quick base coat over a light colored prime.

[@charlesfe]

For both Liquitex and Daler Rowney artist inks I've learned they reactivate pretty readily with any water wash - GW washes out of the pot effectively strip the ink as you've seen first hand. So I hit inks with a matte or satin varnish as appropriate between stages. Yes, that means when I zenithal prime and use Daler Rowney Titanium White as the finishing stage of the zenithal, my next step is to matte varnish. (I love Stynylrez but find DR inks do a better job getting a graduation while applying a zenithal.)

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Charles Feduke ok, good advice!

[@robins5314]

Interesting video, 100x better than a gift shop one!

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Robin S hah, thanks!

[@minismodelsanddioramas2494]

That's a good tip for the nails. Never crossed my mind to just make them a glossy black.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Minis, models and dioramas yeah it's totally lazy but pretty effective imo!

[@minismodelsanddioramas2494]

@@TheMiniJunkie If it's lazy and it works that just means it works twice as good!

[@Klaymour28]

no wash for additional shading? wow, still looks nice tho. Thanks for the video!

[@johnharvath5278]

Greens,have always been my favorite. And if you don't mind me saying, that is truly a masterpiece!! I would have my big toe surgically removed for just a fraction of your talent!!

[@TheMiniJunkie]

John Harvath why thank you, that's very kind!

[@johnharvath5278]

@@TheMiniJunkie and true sir! Thank you for showing us how to do airbrush RIGHT 👍

[@TheRunesmythe]

So I know other people have said it and I don't want to seem like I'm belaboring the point but artist's acrylic inks like Liquitex and Daler Rowney FW are *very* fragile, whether you're applying them with an airbrush or a normal brush. This can sort of be circumvented by giving it a *long* time to dry or drying it very thoroughly with a hair dryer but even then I would be very careful about what I put over it (read: avoid washes and glazes). They really do open up new avenues and come in some amazing colors (that green from Liquitex is incredible!) but there's definitely a learning curve and I would absolutely agree with the advice to varnish after using them; you could probably even get away with an acrylic varnish as long as the ink is sufficiently dry, but whatever the type of varnish it will help make sure your inks don't get reactivated and stripped away. All in all, I still think this miniature came out looking incredible and is a really original take on the concept of a green dragon; its more common to see various shades of matte green (and there's nothing wrong with that either) but the color shift paints and the inks made for a really vibrant look that's very distinctive.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

TheRunesmythe cool! Lesson learned for sure on the inks. Yeah I was definitely looking for “not matte green” and really pleased with this result.

[@Storksle]

Did you let the gloss black base coat dry first? That base coat looked exceptionally shiny and I am wondering how to replicate the results. Maybe I didn’t put it on thick enough.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

I think I did yes

[@timothyarmstrong2314]

Do you know the Artist's name for the "Campfire Song" ? Oh and by the way outstanding work....!

[@rustedbeetle]

Yay!

[@assaesn]

What kind of colors you use I want to buy from them🌹

[@artranchero]

I see a lot of KZbin videos that tend to over-complicate this process. Basically, all you need is a good high gloss coat of black paint that will accentuate the color shift properties of the paint that is applied on top. I use Ace Hardware’s brand of high glass enamel but any brand should work. Give the can a good shake and lay in an even coat of paint. Allow at least an hour to dry before moving on to the color changing paint.these simple steps should yield good results but, as always, there’s no guarantees in art. Enjoy the journey!

[@TheMiniJunkie]

artranchero that’s why I used gloss black

[@narce160th]

Would love to see you do like a 1:48 plane model, like a FW190 or a BF109

[@roberth1328]

The finger wing bones are literally that. They're fingers. IF you look at a bat wing, which is the same as a dragon wing, they're just hands with a fleshy membrane connecting all the fingers to the arms and body.

[@horrido666]

Use Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill those gaps. Just dab it on with a toothpick, and wipe any excess off. No sanding required, and your seams will become invisible.

[@wolfandfx8846]

Can anyone get this dragon?if so how and where? Sorry I'm a newbie

[@markgnepper5636]

Try sealing your ink with lacquer then paint over

[@michaeljacobs2860]

Can you post a link to where i can buy a few of those 3d printed dragons please

[@TheMiniJunkie]

michael jacobs follow the link to the Kickstarter in the description for more info.

[@markgnepper5636]

It's a Kickstart there is a link in the video no one as yet has the minis. Kickstart only gets you the files to print for yourself

[@michaeljacobs2860]

Thanks and great paint vid

[@albertreed966]

My apologies but. it seems that you accomplished exactly what you was trying to avoid,,, a gift shoppe dragon. I don't paint, I would have done the same or, most likely worse than that! I'm sorry but I have always had a problem of being blunt !

[@TheMiniJunkie]

lol, I think you are right!