Painting My Stug III's Interior! | In Collaboration With Panzermeister36!

Hi Everyone! We're back today to paint and weather the interior of the 1/35 Tamiya StuG III with ABER, AMW, and Voyager Photo Etch. We'll be doing some priming, airbrushing, brush-painting, oxide red color modulation, washes, chipping, rust effects, and light dust effects.
The best part of this is that it is in collaboration with Panzermeister36, a much, much larger KZbinr, so big thank-you to him! If you didn't come from his channel, DEFINTELY check him out! Once he releases his video, the link to his video will be here.
• How to Paint Partial S...
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[@Neontrifle]

"From the master"

[@Panzermeister36]

Great work! Yes, I agree that sponge chipping is the way to go for interiors. Quick and gives great looking beat up edges. I also like your Burnt Umber oil paint application over the chipping for some rust...that colour looks really good on the ivory! The graphite stick over the edges is also a good idea...it should catch the light and add some great emphasis to the interior when looking through the hatches. I can't wait to see more on this StuG! I'm going to have to go back and check out your video on working with all that PE.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks man! Yeah, before I was using burnt sienna, but it’s too red in my opinion. So the burnt umber works pretty well. I’m planning on using it in further applications. Hopefully you enjoy the photo etch, it was definitely an experince

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

I use a set you can get from Hobby Lobby, just ask for a graphite refill set, and you'll see it. It has 12 sticks, all different hardnesses. I usually try to use the hardest stick, just so it makes a very thin, but also super shiny edges.

[@SteveJonesScaleModellingSite]

Nice to see the interior painted up. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks!

[@richardcraig5608]

I just painted my stug B interior yesterday and now 2 tutorials today .. figures .. Good job , looks nice and worn ... I went with a grey green floor as it is still a very early war vehicle but who knows .. I'll say like Panzermeister36, I spent a whole afternoon painting up the interior for very little to be seen in the end.. Hey we know what we did ..lol I'll be watching!

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

True! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@kabreigny]

From the Master. Great video. Very informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing your techniques.

[@rrohring1970]

Great job. 👍🏻. Keep up the good work. You’re a great inspiration to this newbie.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thank you!

[@riff2072]

Hello Scale Studio, Just subscribed. Came over from Panz.36 link. Thanks for the posts. Riff

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks for the sub! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@RimsModels]

Great video my friend some great techniques there thanks 👍👍

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thank you, Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jzghostrider66]

NICELY Done.... very informative.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thank you very much!

[@dantimmerman6693]

Excellent collab video. I enjoyed this very much. Thanks for making this. You got a new subscriber here.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Great, thanks for subbing! Glad you liked it. More is on the way!

[@dantimmerman6693]

@@ScaleStudioModeling you're welcome. I'll be sure to go back and watch your older videos.

[@Android-rz8mb]

Great video for the gun basket use Vallejo model color English uniform

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks!

[@Android-rz8mb]

Scale Studio What is your mix ratio for the Vallejo model color ivory

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Android 13 it’s just the Vallejo model color ivory. I usually thin it with equal parts tap water and paint for airbrushing. This is one of the only Vallejo colors that is horrible to brush-paint.

[@KC-GOD-IS.]

Hello Scale Studio, Overall a good job on the interior. Just a note, unless it is a late war vehicle (fall '43 to spring '45) there would be little to NO rust inside or outside a Deutsche (German) vehicle, as they were meticulous with maintenance when not in battle. In fact, they would be fined in pay or with jail if the vehicles were not kept to standards. Later, when moral bagan to decline, things were not kept up as well as they had been. Just thought you would like to know.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Wow, that is some great info! I want to make this an older vehicle, so I racked the suspension and am going to give it an almost all the way removed whitewash, just to show that it's survived a couple seasons. but I think that while yes, it may be more realistic to keep it cleaner and not damaged, I am in the Night Shift boat. I'm willing to lose a little realism for an interesting and more detailed model. Also, on the eastern front was not exactly a cakewalk, and flying shrapnel, rocks, and more would chip the paint at least a little bit. Working on machining tools, I have found that rust can build up pretty quick, and is super hard to remove, regulations or not. I admit, its very easy to overdo (which I tend to), but I have fun with it, and it usually makes a cool-looking model. On the other hand, I am trying to keep the weathering subtle on this model, and I'll keep this info in mind. Thanks for watching the video, I love getting feedback from my viewers.

[@sketchbond]

Great video, came here after watching panzermeister's, will save these for when I pick up this kit in the near future.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it

[@brewman467]

Nice job and video. But where is the radio in the end?

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

It’s hidden up in the superstructure

[@zachnar0125]

Use model mission Elfenbein for Panzer interiors. Its perfect and easy to use.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

thanks for the tip! definitely made this one too light

[@zachnar0125]

@@ScaleStudioModeling Looks good regardless!

[@AdamMann3D]

Did turn out pretty well, but inside of the shell bag?

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Adam, thanks for watching, I appreciate your feedback. The reason I didn’t do the inside of the shell bag is that it’s not going to be visible when I put on the fighting compartment superstructure. I’ve already spent 60+ hours on this project, and so I really don’t want to waste time somewhere that’s not going to add to the final result.

[@MahkReeProductions]

Hi There - Loved the video. What was the chipping paint you used with the sponge method? Apologies if I didn't hear it on the audio.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Vallejo German Camo Black Brown, it’s a generally great color

[@darronhedges5873]

Outstanding.With you now and steve jones we have interiors and full PE detailing and scratchbuilding video's which where thin on ground.Cant leave all the glory to 1\48 cockpit celebs Have you seen ROCHM model's website?Trust me.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Haha, thank you and I’ll check it out

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Yeah, just checked them out...wow! That’s some crazy photo etch sets, I’d like to try one, but it’ll probably have to be a future project since the budget just isn’t there yet, but who knows?

[@darronhedges5873]

@@ScaleStudioModeling Mr Hobby metal color/Dark iron,with brush and depending on ratio of medium to pigment(graphite)you can get a few unique effects that imitate darker heavier metal.It also primes PE with layer of graphite that paint just hugs.Unshaken the medium is a colour/effect on its own,like a 'black oiled' metal colour,£3 a pot.Also can create a ground cast plate with pigment sludge.Scoop from bottom of pot spread it out unevenly and let dry.Then sand high points down until almost flat,looks like a roughly cast slab and sanding marks look like the grinders marks.Phew,hope that makes sense.Has look of its own.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Wow, that’s a pretty useful paint lol, I’ll look into it, maybe a make it a video

[@darronhedges5873]

@@ScaleStudioModelingIt has a unique recipe in the Mr Metal color range,nothing vaguely similar in Mr Metal color 1 and 2 range.Did you see Ryefields PIV(no interior)? It beats dragons 'superkit' MK IV's,only toolclamp's missing.Plus it has a bundle of 'useful' spares.Four spare sets of different pattern iron return rollers,about 5 types ariels and mounts,3 early types cupola.Welds are too perfectly scaled to interfere,and theyve found ones i never knew about.Goes for about £40,w\tracks,mesh PE schurzen,brass wheel masks! everything.Loads of turret interior spares too for later interior version.It looked and felt better and more 'in scale' and crisper than DML mk IV's,ive built 3 'superkit' versions and about 8 dragon MK IV hull's.When you get Dark Iron don't shake it,let the medium evaporate on brush for 30 seconds before painting.

[@EMTBonsai]

Something happened to the video contrast it's very bright white now! I've watched this video before it's a good one but was never like this? Was this the Tamiya stug B? Just when seen the correct gun cradle and loaders seat dragin used the ausf G amd panzer 4 long barrel cradle if mind right on there's it was a nightmare to scratch build it all lol

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

I’m not sure, I’ll take a look. Thanks for the heads up!

[@dazknight5622]

What make is your paintbrush?

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Some of them are some random ones I got off of Amazon, anther set are from Hobby Lobby, it was a master’s touch set of brushes, and then I have some really nice ones from the army painter that I love using all the time.

[@dazknight5622]

Nice one thanks mate 😊

[@annanbejat1578]

What kind of camera do you use for the recording mate?

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

I actually just use my iPhone 6s I’m planning on replacing it with a dedicated camera, but I’m waiting for more support from patrons etc.

[@annanbejat1578]

@@ScaleStudioModeling good luck with that✨😎

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

Thanks!

[@gaborv.6502]

Most of tanks has been destrolyed or lost within 6 months in case of eastern front of ww2. So any rust on a model of ww2 AFV in working condition is a mistake. Rusting on a stug or panzer is illusory. (Okay, of course, there were a few early ww2 light tank and recon car that surived long enough for being rusted [like reused chassis of Pz2 or R-35] but they were the exception, not the rule)

[@nealallen7914]

Hey I'm building this kit now. if it want it to be realistic, should I assume very few stug iii b last longer than 6 months on the eastern front? Should I base my paint scheme and unit markings with when it was built? Sorry idk if you're the right person to ask I can't find much info on this particular vehicle (stug iii ausf. b) besides the wiki

[@gaborv.6502]

@@nealallen7914 I've read some papers in a contemporary professional journal. According to these writings most of equipment were lost or worn out within a few months (6 months is an average, a stug probably lasted longer, because it was robust). Under camp conditions maintenance was poor, even if there were any at all. There was a constant shortage of parts. Plus, the dust and slop wasn't good for the machines either. Therefore, even simple PaKs, tanks and airplanes were quickly worn out even if they were not destroyed. So I dare say for sure that you could only find rust on machines that served in the second line. That’s why an early StuGs may have been destroyed/worn out by '43, but Renault tanks were still operating at the end of '44. In the second line, the load was less and there was more time to maintain. Moreover, most of the vehicles at the time were intended for short but intensive use. Most tanks and aircraft did not have a design life of more than 2 years (they have become obsolete in a few years!). Even the russian tanks could not stand the harsh conditions either. They also lasted up to 1 year, even if they weren't knocked out. At the end of the war, 80% of Russian combat vehicles were inoperable / destroyed! Think about this problem. Even the most of the much-better-for-maintain M3&M5 light tanks were completely worn out by the end of the war > from June 1944 to May 1945.

[@ScaleStudioModeling]

I realize this has been 2 years, but for the record, rust can show up in as few as 2 days, and in super wet and nasty environments like the ones that this vehicle was operating in, it's entirely reasonable to assume that some rust was present. Not as much as I added, but due to the scale, you have to exaggerate the detail to actually make it visible.