Painting Realistic Scenery | The Foundational Color Layer - Vlog #40

[@gregbowenart]

Curious, were you taught the glazing technique or did you discover it on your own? Your technique is very similar to how the renaissance masters painted with oil on canvas. Although I had a lot of art classes and lessons, in grade school and college, no one taught underpainting or glazing techniques. Fairly recently, I learned about glazing from a book “How to Paint Like the Old Masters” by Joseph Sheppard (1983), which was based on analysis and imaging (xray, etc.) of old paintings. I have attempted to apply the techniques, with varying success, using acrylics (to avoid the mess and risks of oil-based pigments). Then I discovered Golden Open products and clear glazes, which made it a lot easier (although still trying to master it)! A number of artists used burnt umber or raw sienna to create a tonal underpainting (brunaille), which looks like sepia photograph. They completed this before color glazes were applied. This is very similar to your brown washes / glazes for your base layer, but in 3D.

[@boomerdiorama]

I learned the skill of glazing in film and theater. Prior to this I ventured into a similar style while painting figurines greatly influenced by Ray Anderson, Francois Verlinden and Sheperd Paine, in the eighties, with oil paint. I read all their books and still recommend them. They were miniature diorama artists. When I learned the art in full scale, I merely transferred it to the smaller scale to enhance what I had already begun to practice. The classical method was indeed done with oils because oil has superior "transparency" built in. It is more difficult (but much healthier and safer), to use Acrylics. I used to use water-borne "Varathane" and latex to glaze in theater and film on a commercial level. Now I use Golden, Tamiya and Vallejo to achieve similar results in miniature. Furthermore, I also developed a technique called "Sfumato" as well. I thought I invented it without knowing the name, but quickly realized it was practiced long before my day by the Masters as well. Thanks for sharing. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@FarlandHowe]

I enjoyed hearing about your thinning methods. I also thin to an extreme but am always amazed how little actual Tamiya pigment is needed for coverage. Your process is more scientific than mine. Perhaps I’ll try yours. I used to brush paint a lot, with your influence I find myself using the airbrush to do most every painting task. all the best, Rob

[@boomerdiorama]

I still use a traditional brush for lot's of tasks. I can't live without my airbrush though as you mention. Tamiya is awesome pigment. I would have to say Vallejo is a close second but doesn't like IPA. But that is O.K. because I work the layers creatively and they work well together.

[@thomasmccaskill5197]

You do a great presentation on how to use everything to make a masterpiece of a diorama and and a railroad

[@boomerdiorama]

I'm glad it was helpful. Painting like this takes time to demonstrate. It's the nature of the beast. Cheers.

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Nice new upload you put together. Thanks for sharing.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it! This episode is a preliminary to the glazing technique I plan on demonstrating. It's a process of layering that is essential if one wants to learn it. Cheers.

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

@@boomerdioramaGreat and thanks very much for replying to my comment. I have a new video out now. Hope you like and share.

[@peterainsworth8466]

Thanks once again for some great information. I've always been a fan of Tamiya paints and I'm encouraged to hear that you regard them highly. I've never been comfortable with oil based paint either so I'm very keenly soaking up all of your acrylic techniques. It will be a long time before I gain your confidence but I've already been pretty bold with washes and texture gels thanks to you. Your content is great.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad to hear it Peter. I still keep oils in my kit for model weathering where a certain filter is desired. Oils sit beautifully over Tamiya Acrylic as well. Acrylics are a steeper learning curve. I also love the way they dry fast. Even then, I can slow them down some if I want. Plus, Acrylics are so much more safer and healthier for the modeler over time. Cheers.

[@ollieahokas9179]

Third like from Sweden on this video! I really like the way you demostrate everything you do. A great job! Cheers!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you and cheers to you as well! ~ Boomer.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

Spec-freaking-tacular!!! Thanks much for this!

[@boomerdiorama]

Any time! Thank You ~ Boomer.

[@davestrains6816]

Another master class. The test strip is a fantastic idea. Thanks for sharing. Dave

[@boomerdiorama]

Test strips can reveal a lot of things we would otherwise call mistakes. Cheers.

[@hoseman8001]

Hello..thanks again for the simple demo on the paints and how you thin it. Nice. Looking forward on how you create the water and the shoreline with different colors. I always need show and tell so thanks again for these types of videos.. Jose

[@boomerdiorama]

This episode is a requirement (or prerequisite) to learning the glazing technique. Show and tell won't do it alone. You have to practice it. Cheers.

[@stevenstorey1945]

Classroom Session of Paint Theory 101 will be great to go back to when it's time to paint! I have never reached the point of actually having to paint this kind of detail, so this detailed information will be extremely helpful when I do! Thanks Boomer for breaking this down for the layperson.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing!

[@joebakewell7566]

Wow very informative. Thank You for sharing.

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure!

[@larrydee8859]

As always; Thank you so much Boomer, for this excellent painting lecture! I started taking notes from all your great videos. Watching your excellent workmanship videos and lectures, are now highly motivating my new layout scenery efforts to an exciting level I've always shyed away, from using an airbrush until now... as my son and daughter just gave me a decent airbrush set with a high quality compressor this week! Please keep up your great lectures on your modeling, and scenery craftsmanship. Thanks again, Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

The sooner you start using the airbrush the better. Keep the paint very thin at first and practice on an old cardboard box. I still do! Increasing Confidence is inevitable as you use it. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@larrydee8859]

@@boomerdiorama Thanks again Boomer for your great advice! Yes, I'm clearing off an area in my basement for airbrushing practice. I will be using the 99% alcohol for thinning. I will practice spraying on Old cardboard to start to develop a feeling for airbrushing.

[@K27fan]

Because of lung damage, I had to quit using lacquer based paints. I have been acrylics for years. I model Colorado narrow gauge and actually use the Ceram Coat brand of cheap acrylics like you get at Walmart etc. I have a formula that mimics the faded out box car red seen on cars. I have not been able to match it using Vallejo or Tamiya. I thin it about 50/50 with water and use some Flo Aid to keep the air brush from clogging. These paints are not ground as fine as model acrylics but they still provide excellent finishes if thinned down properly.

[@boomerdiorama]

Absolutely. I have seen remarkable results form cheap Kraft paint. Whatever floats the boat. I can't handle solvent based paints anymore. I gave up on them for the most part twenty five years ago. Although, I do make exception with some Oils and Mineral spirits . . . but rarely though . Cheers.

[@robertbeaty4909]

I learned how to use a spray gun when I was 14 and I never quit, I'm now 63. Glad I quit smoking 23 years ago. I use Golden paints too, love em.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds similar to me. Cheers.😁

[@williambryant5946]

This is one of if not the most helpful painting video I have seen on youtube of a modeler explaining how they get certain effects with paint. This is an awesome tutorial video and I hope you continue to make many more like this and share all the little secrets that give you these incredible professional results. Thank you so much for sharing this. Stay well. -Wil 👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful William. Thanks for the heads up on preferred content as well! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@ericp6612]

Excellent information! Thank you!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@DisVietVetUSA]

Great Demo, I used to mix printing inks using Pantone Mixing system with Polychrome Inks, and Acrylic Printing Inks, Soy based inks so forth and so on. So what you talking about and I can fully understand. I like acrylics because the are fast drying, but with extender you can slow down the drying time. The other thing you have to remember if you are airbrushing paint with heavy doses of Isopropyl alcohol @ 99%, where a mask. I am an asthmatic and alcohol like acetone is an irritant, not good the eyes or the lungs and well ventilated as well. You are doing a fantastic job here

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. A mask is essential with heavy IPA atomization for sure. Thanks for sharing that with the community! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@FredWilbury]

Great info Boomer as happens I’m off to my local model shop for some more tamiya paints . Regards Fred

[@boomerdiorama]

. . . me too! . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@OtterCreek]

What a wonderful channel, I'm caught up on the current build and I'm blown away by the depth of content. Your approach mirrors what I'm ham handily trying to achieve on my own layout with limited success. I love the video format, philosophy backed up solidly with proof of concept. I look forward to every new upload! - Dennis

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow, thank you and welcome aboard! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@346UNCLEBOB]

Great 101. Thanks!

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome!😁

[@Walshy196]

Thanks this is very helpful insightful info

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@troyb1733]

WOW as always Boomer,Thank you for sharing all this info. I love watching videos and reading books and all the info is given to us so if its not understood in the fineprint then theres the pictures to back them up.So many times I have tried to figure out someone did a technique and went crazy not knowing.The old fine scale magazine did that,either the literature was wrong or the pictures with the article would confuse you.You are a joy to watch and learn from,You are the Shep Paine and Ray Anderson of our You Tube era!Thanks,cheers Troy

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. I am happy to hear the channel is a benefit to you! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@tommassura6777]

Thanks for sharing your scenery tips. Your modules look fantastic!! Always look forward to your video's. My scenery is pretty crude looking so I am always looking for tips to help me improve it. I like how you show the complete process. Thanks for taking the time to share your talent with all of us.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for taking the time to express your opinion and feelings concerning the hobby we all love to share. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout]

Looking forward to trying this technique. I have a fairly large unfinished area on my layout that will be mostly fields. My Tamiya Flat Earth should be delivered next week. Currently experimenting on a test board with thin layer of drywall patch (in place of the modeling paste), "combed" with the teeth of a trowel for the furrows. Painted with thinned burnt umber and gray acrylics. Random layer of unsanded grout. Random layer of 2mm static grass. I think the thinned Tamiya Flat Earth will pull it together. I think it will also take the shine off the static grass. Does that sound right? And hey, thanks for responding to all your comments. Really means a lot.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes! The flat Tamiya takes the glare, or shine off the synthetic grass look, rendering it flat and more scale looking. Good stuff. Cheers.

[@grahamspalding2255]

Great insight into landscape modelling 👏

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@randellevans6102]

Another great video, looking forward to see how you do the water scene.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks 👍

[@coxsj]

Extremely helpful. Thx for taking the time to walk through this!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rhodesj1893]

And here I thought I was the only one that made quick reference guides... even down to custom paint mixes... as a ex-tool & die machinist I made prototype templates of everything I did so if the Job came back around in a yr or two I could jump back in and not spend half a day figuring out how I did it the first time! Good on you, boomer

[@boomerdiorama]

I go back myself to double check the method. So much going on I forget sometimes.

[@harperlarry49]

Really great information. I will add one thing....labels!! Cheers - Larry.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cool, thanks!

[@jimschneider5193]

Once again I'm learning so much from your video's! I think a great topic for you to cover would be your take on... Lighting. It's one of the most important aspects of a layout which really has everything to do with the way all your efforts are viewed. Appreciate the consideration.

[@boomerdiorama]

Great suggestion! I did talk a little about it during the bench construction. Check the playlist (Shelf Layout Design & Construction). Cheers.

[@Panzermeister36]

For future reference, the thinner in the Tamiya paints is Butyl Alcohol, which I'm sure you know is effectively the same as IPA for our needs. You can find the MSDS for Tamiya paints online :)

[@boomerdiorama]

;-) Thanks for sharing that with the community! Cheers

[@205004gs]

Wonderful, now I don't have to search around for 50% isopropyl, I can just cut it down with distilled water. Great tutorial and the chipped paint on the CN cylinder hopper is eye catching!👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Wbmfishman1]

I’ve actually started a small note book on all this info. Running down to the train room now to cut my new bottle of flat earth. Thank you Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Fantastic!

[@OtterCreek]

@@boomerdiorama Agreed, I binge watched with such enthusiasm I didn't take the time to take notes, I wish I had!

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

Amazing tutorial!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@patmccarthy1624]

Wow! Thanks Professor!

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome!

[@ralphrenzetti22]

You and I are on the same paint page! I’ve been trying to convert the guys here at Model Railroading Live, but they are hung up on cheap craft paint!

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes Ralph, I agree. Cheap craft paint has a place in the hobby. But you will rarely, if ever, see craft paint on my layout or models. I always appreciate the voice and opinion of a master painter. Thanks for sharing the voice of experience. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@michaeltrufitt5477]

Another great tutorial you explain everything in a manner that we understand thanks Boomer 😀👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for sharing your impression on the video. Art is difficult to explain and it helps me to articulate and demonstrate the process so it is easier to understand. Cheers.😁

[@waynehawkins2157]

Good show. If you look at Google maps of branch lines railroads use concrete ties to keep tracks in line. They would have a concrete tie and then have 7 or 9 wooden ties then go back to concrete. It's a small detail I notice maybe you want to check it out

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good. I`ll check it out. Cheers.

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

Great video, thanks for the info.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. Glad it was helpful!

[@30Squares]

Another great video! Thanks for taking the time to make these. These days I watch your videos with a stack of 3x5 cards and pen on hand for note taking so I don’t overlook anything. A couple of questions. What brand of airbrush are you using in the video for spraying Tamiya paint? You mentioned you wore a particle mask while spraying, but is there any issue with paint remaining in the room air, or being recirculated to other parts of the house?

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. I use an older model Omni 5000 made in U.S.A. You can still get the updated version here: usaairbrushsupply.com/products/omni-5000-gravity-feed-airbrush. As long as you don't spray paint with high pressure and large volumes of paint there is no need to worry about overspray or circulation. I would not spray large heavily covered areas this way. For heavy airbrush work I take it outside. No problem for painting details and small areas with thin pigment as I show indoors. The Isopropyl Alcohol evaporates so fast the airborne pigment dissipates almost immediately. No need to worry about circulation because it is not a gas or vapor that lingers. I open a window with a fan pointing to it and the room clears of any subtle odor in no time. I use a basic paper mask but you can use a better one if you desire. Cheers.

[@30Squares]

@@boomerdiorama Thanks !

[@rcjmrl46]

Nice Technical lesson there Boomer. Thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sure thing. You are welcome as well! Cheers.

[@4everdc302]

Class Dismissed!🎨 Thanks for posting Boomer.🚂🇨🇦

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

I clean my airbrush with IPA also. Great info, thanks for the video!

[@boomerdiorama]

Excellent! The seals should last indefinitely if you avoid (enamel/lacquer) based solvents. Cheers.😁

[@paulthomann7911]

Oh my. That chart pulled everything together for me in an instant. What a video if you did that with all the Golden and Liquitex products. Is there anything out there that shows something like that? If you don't know that is ok. I can research it. Sometimes I think you have used this stuff so much that you don't realize how the novice viewer like myself is watching so intently trying to sort things like this out in their mind. At times I scour through the comments to try to find someone asking the question I am thinking hoping that you will respond in detail to help further my insight.

[@boomerdiorama]

I practice all the time and discover new things every day in this hobby. Cheers!

[@modelfxaustralia8963]

I discovered Tamyia for weathering using ratios of 10% paint to alcohol [aka metho] and water mix, the real benefit was the ability to build up the weathering slowly using an airbrush and that at that point never used thinner based paint again

[@boomerdiorama]

Good quality Acrylic paint is a little bit of a learning curve but well worth it. The colors are more powerful and rich than even oils because they don't produce "mud" in the same way oils do. Furthermore, they dry incredibly fast if you want them too. Cheers.

[@markgoodrich941]

Thanks so much for these videos. I am not an artist so every one of your videos are new information for me. I have never seen 99% alcohol for sale. Where would you find it? I am in the US. Again, many thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

Isopropyl Alcohol should be stocked on every Pharmacy shelf in the country. Especially since the Covid outbreak. If you attempt to paint you are probably an artist without realizing it. Just admit it and get on with it . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@markgoodrich941]

@@boomerdiorama Thanks. I've seen 70% and 91% just not the 99% alcohol.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@markgoodrich941 It doesn't matter really if you use anything above 50%. I use 70% all the time. I just prefer 99% for economic reasons. Even then, it's all pretty cheap compared to expensive "brand name" thinners. You won't notice any difference really. Go for it. Cheers.

[@IronHorseRailways]

So thinning this much is the technique you use for adding that sheen layer right? You wouldn't thin this much for regular painting would you? I ask because I've tried using paint this thin with my air brush and they just hit the surface and immediately run or spider....

[@boomerdiorama]

It is actually called a "filter" If the paint is flat it shouldn't have a sheen after it dries, only when it is wet. I do use this method for weathering models as well, but it must have a "toothy" flat surface first to be most effective. Having said this, a glossy surface is often better for oil washes because Acrylic does not respond well to "slippery" surface - it prefers some grip. This is why I often use Tamiya "Flat Base" first on a model as I demonstrate here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnK8ZHd4ra15Z9k But oil, or "pin" washes are not the same type of filter, as an acrylic medium, when applied with an airbrush. An "airbrushed" filter is not always considered a wash by traditional standards. They produce similar results but the application is different, and the result is different as well. Cheers.

[@franckb473]

Merci beaucoup, ça va m’aider à approfondir les techniques….

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome from Canada! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@RB55able]

Valuable information. Thanks for sharing, Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Good to know. Thanks Ralph. Cheers.

[@paulhayton3423]

Another reference video to save to the folder, now to decide where to put that folder so I don't lose it.

[@boomerdiorama]

I should be adding them to the "Playlist" on the home page soon. Cheers.

[@PeterCPRail8748]

I have no doubt your murky water will turn out fantastic

[@boomerdiorama]

Resin has a place in the hobby for sure. I really don't care if other people want to use it. I try to avoid it, if I don't need it (emphasis), for good reason. ;-)

[@iangerahty3422]

Never mix India Pale Ale 🍺 with your coffee ☕️ -very sage advice‼️😉😂😂😂 Keep it coming Boomer you speak to such a wide range of followers.

[@tas7997]

Cheers to that! ☕🍻👍🤣

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . well said! Cheers friend ~ Boomer.

[@mcampbell1131]

Boomer your a great inspiration for my modeling. Two things I try to model by Quality not quality and last keep it simple stupid.

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow, thanks!

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Nice and Arts and crafts 101

[@boomerdiorama]

I hope it helps some. Cheers.

[@paulsinn]

TYFYS, moar content like this please.

[@boomerdiorama]

I do plan on painting some track and right-of-way soon. Thank you!

[@restaurantquality]

boom.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers ! ~ Boomer.

[@railfan1956]

Boomer, thanks for describing how to cut acrylic paint. I have not found anywhere who could tell me.

[@boomerdiorama]

Just be careful what paint you cut with IPA. So far Tamiya acrylic is fail safe. Be careful with the others unless they are ethanol based, even then, test it first.

[@jamesbraxton6132]

The Boomer version of dirty water.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes James . . . it's all about controlling dirty water while avoiding mud. Unless one wants to paint mud. Cheers.