Painting Scenic Details HO Scale Hi Rail Excavator | River Road - Vlog #81

This is a short mini review, and a comprehensive paint tutorial demonstrating the fundamental keys to Light & Shadow, as a base layer when applying color variation to any scale model. This skill is achieved in practicing the exercise I demonstrate with an airbrush and wet-on-wet acrylic painting.
DISCLAIMER: I pay for all the products and materials I use in this video content, unless otherwise stated. I do not receive any affiliate sponsorship, fees, funds, support, or gifts from Golden products, and/or any other companies, I recommend. I only endorse products for the benefit of the community and my own personal use.
Music: Western Spaghetti - Chris Haugen

[@stevenstorey1945]

Boomer, what a fine example of what to do, and when to do it. I loved the work you did on the dozier for Glover Road, I thought that turned out fantastic, but demonstrating as you did the black and white colors that can create the gray shadowing just made the finished excavator look like a little piece of art! So many layouts I view, the equipment looks so plastic even though it's painted. Just no realism there! It really is amazing the difference paint can make when applied with this kind of skill, knowledge and expertise! Thanks for sharing this technique!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Steven. You can get away with this kind of "impressionistic" painting in HO Scale. It's a different ball game with larger scales, but the fundamentals are the same basis except that more fidelities of detail is involved. I have been there done that with larger scales. I like HO Scale because you can compromise and still have fun by ignoring details that others might think important. When you view it from two feet away it looks the part. I never see it as close as I show on camera anyway. ;-) Thanks for sharing! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@ronduz1281]

Wow and wow you are true artist super impressive work👍👍👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. It helps if the layout is smaller. This way you can focus in and not be overwhelmed with a larger unimageable footprint. You can still enjoy the hobby at the same level and run your favorite rolling stock, locomotives, etc. ;-)

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

Hi Boomer, you mention some time ago that it was difficult to get the correct size ballast ,I've never really found any of the manufactures come up to scratch. This will make you laugh, I was visiting a friends layout the other day he is a very accomplished modeler uses Code 60 track I asked him about the type of ballast that was on the layout. To my surprise he replied its not ballast, I'm using sand blasting grit did the calculations and it was the correct scale size the results are very impressive and you can get this at auto parts stores. So it just goes to show you can learn something new every day just by visiting friends layouts Im going to buy some and see how well it works , I will let you know how it turns out.

[@boomerdiorama]

I love reading what you just wrote! Half the fun is discovering scenery materials outside of the hobby store . . . lol. The journey of discovery has only begun. Good Stuff! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@mr.e1944]

Awesome! This is a master class in painting models. Should be required viewing for any college painting class. Thanks Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow, thank you!

[@richardsmith4147]

Boomer, Thank you for the amazing information. It is such a great new way of painting that I am learning from you

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear. I lie it because I can feel each layer and adjust as I go, or stop when I feel enough is enough. It's safe. ;-) Cheers.

[@theangelsmodellingandrailways]

The multiple thin washes achieve a superb looking depth to the overall look. The subtle change of tones is impressive, do you seal it all with a matt/satin varnish Boomer? Or leave as is? I'm about to attempt weathering on some of my steam locos, and these techniques should prove valuable in attempting it. Thanks again for your quality content, all the best and take care. Brian @ The Angels.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sometimes I seal it. Sometimes I don't.

[@Perfusionist01]

Very, very nice! I used to do military models and this type of painting is used there, plus I have watched a number of videos from people who paint wargame miniatures and several of them use similar techniques. Your results (at least on this) are very convincing. You captured the look of a hard-working piece of construction equipment. It has been well used but isn't reduced to junk. That's a fine art! I try modifying some of my painting for a couple projects and see if I can get this down. I enjoy the fine-ground pigments of the Vallejo paints. I used to shy away from pre-thinned paint but I brush paint many of my projects (due to health concerns) and I have come to really like Model Air series. It generally brushes quite nicely.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed. A little practice is all it takes to get the feel of things. It took me a little while to get used to using acrylic with a traditional brush and water. Now I am addicted to the method. ;-)

[@billkenkel9532]

Fantastic job Boomer. I have a question for you. When you are finished painting your models, do you seal them with anything like dullcote or similar?

[@boomerdiorama]

I think it is a good idea to flat coat every model to protect and seal the paint. Especially, if you plan multiple "oil" washes over acrylic layers, etc. It adds a reflective layer and can produce remarkable results under good LED lighting. Having said this, there are times where I do not seal because I desire a "dead" flat (non-reflective) look, which Tamiya paint is known for. If you like pastels or chalks it is best to avoid sealer because it mutes all the weathering below satisfaction. Cheers.

[@DisVietVetUSA]

Interesting approach to it all, give me some idea's for my On30 layout, acrylic is truly fail safe paint amd it is good your are using Air Brush colors

[@boomerdiorama]

It took me awhile to let go of Humbrol paints for acrylics. Sure glad I did though. Cheers.

[@handlaidtrack]

Great tutorial! Where do you post pictures of this model? I would like to see closer and more pictues of it. Thank you for taking the time to explain your techniques.

[@boomerdiorama]

Check out thee "Community" tab on the Home page for other pictures which don't make it to video.

[@jasonweir6345]

Great job. Looks fantastic. Not saying it is a mistake, but if the instructions indicated it I think they are wrong, the cylinders on the main boom are up side down. The base of the cylinder is always on the lower end and the ram attaches to the moving part. At least I've never seen any hydraulic cylinders set up this way and I've been in the construction industry for years

[@boomerdiorama]

You are probably right. I used to care about details like that years ago but now I don't care much anymore. On the other hand, I may think differently about another model, who knows. Frankly, I have built so many model kits, I just plow through stuff to have fun. I find it hard to take things seriously anymore. They just come out a certain way due to experience over the years and I settle for it. Thanks for sharing. cheers.

[@beeble2003]

Thanks, Boomer. I've ordered one of these excavators, so let's see how much of a mess I manage to make of it! 🤣

[@boomerdiorama]

It's not a perfect kit but it looks great on the railroad layout! Have fun!

[@charlie1872]

Stunning work. Great explanation of your workflow. Thanks for sharing this👍❤️🖊📐

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure!

[@MojaveModelRailroad]

Every time I watch one of your videos I leave speechless and with knowledge. Thank you..

[@boomerdiorama]

You are very welcome! Cheers.

[@randytaylor1258]

What a lovely little -- tiny! -- tutorial. Figure modeller Shep Paine used to talk about the "halo of light", with light falling from above leaving shadows underneath. While most modellers think about painting details, you're talking about using layers of paint to create impressions of colour and shadow -- and it works on locos, boxcars, and buildings, too! It's fully articulate-- it speaks to me! 😲

[@boomerdiorama]

Details are great but they do little for depth and illusion without artificial light and shadow painted in.

[@stevenstorey1945]

Boomer, just had to make an unrelated comment... I was going through your videos from a year ago of Glover Road and found one I missed. "Dusty and the Diarama / A Cat's Critique." That was really funny!!! She did a good job, until she got to critiqueeee! Cheers

[@boomerdiorama]

That is awesome! Dusty has been around since the beginning. ;-) Cheers.

[@vsrrfan9977]

This a great technique, thanks for sharing your knowledge. What would the process be if you have decals? Seems it would be in reverse order. Thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

No reverse order in my case. Just clear coat (which I will do later), slide on decals, flat coat, and throw on a subtle wash to blend the decal into the weathering. You can do the process anyway you are comfortable with. I like to add decals last this way and then wet sand them to add wear and weathering if I want. ;-)

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama 😲

[@rickansell661]

Small point (long write) about why you have to make the model 'pop' with paint... There are two things that don't scale. Shadows and Speed. Shadows not scaling is *one* reason why the film industry likes to use the largest models it can get away with. It's also why things like unpainted miniature busts often look 'wrong', especially if photographed without something to show how small they are. Either the features look 'bland' and washed out or they have to be cut deeper and exaggerated to get the shadows, in which case when photographed in a context where they look 'full size' they will look horrible. My modelling has exclusively been wargaming figurines. Shadows not scaling is why a thin wash of a dark shade is popular, alternatively a dark undercoat can be left showing through. On faces leaving dark undercoat in the shadows makes the face look 'blotchy' at the ranges figures are usually inspected so painting the whole face full colour, trying to leave the folds darker, and then a 'shadow wash' is the way to go. Why is it that railway modellers usually expend less than 1/10 of the effort on painting the humans on their layout that they expend on painting buildings, excavators and rolling stock? I know many come 'painted' but the painting is usually bland and garish, at least tone it down folks. Most figures seen on model railways have pale bland 'Auton' blotches for faces for this reason (and the fact that the eyes and other features are never done). They also tend to look spindly because properly scale people, unshaded, don't have the shadows. TLDR: In models you have to add or exaggerate the shadows as nature will not provide scale ones. So either deeper real shadows have to be created by exaggerated features (most wargames figures do this - partly for practical modelling reasons) or they have to be painted in. Or both.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing.

[@seanspennywisemiserrr]

Another great tutorial Boomer. As in the prototype, the forward axle pivots so you have 4 points of contact on rough terrain. If both axles floated the excavator would become unstable during travel. Thank you again for sharing your skills. Take care. Sean.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers.

[@CharlieH65]

I've got an old Atlas black plastic girder bridge I glued feet onto last night, I noticed some nice rivet detail on the old girl from Austria. As soon as I get home it's going to get a taste of Tamiya via the new Omni 5000. A diluted white misting is going to make that puppy sing!

[@boomerdiorama]

An airbrush can really make those rivets pop! Try a light overspray with "Buff." ;-)

[@adriengadson3544]

That Excavator is way better than what you can get in N scale. I bought one at a show last year for cheap and have to make a new cab , add hydraulic rods and panel details. All the rest will be straight forward just like yours...Nice addition to your scene.

[@boomerdiorama]

N Scale is a great scale. Unfortunately, my eyes struggle with the smaller scope of things . . . but not for scenery though. ;-)

[@troyb1733]

Try CA Debonder??It might work..Great work as always Boomer,Cheers,Troy

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you!

[@rahoover427]

Another awesome tutorial in a string of awesome tutorials. Thanks again for sharing. Cheers. Randy

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I appreciate your artistic expertise so much. Building models is one thing, but painting them so that they come to life takes it to the next level. Thanks for your help.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you very much Ron. I am also a big fan of your channel as well!

[@bretts7029]

Awesome tutorial. That really cleared up how you use Vallejo vs Tamiya. Thanks, Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. They work great together.

[@roychycinski2930]

I liked the detail of the hoses I will be putting this kit on top of a gon for work train .

[@boomerdiorama]

That's a great idea. I have plans for a similar MOW conversion as well. ;-)

[@stevenstorey1945]

Hi Boomer, I'm struggling with a question on size and proportion of buildings like the brewery. I know you covered this in previous videos, but I'm unable to locate the video, even going back to Glover Road. Could you briefly explain how you determine in inches the height and width of any given building to be in proper proportion to engine and cars for a siding against a warehouse? Thanks so much...

[@boomerdiorama]

You need a common size of a standard door from the photo you choose to use. Use a standard door from the photo (find one). Doors are approx. 7' high, 36" wide. Use those dimension to determine other measurements from the photo. Use other clues in the photo to roughly gauge other dimensions. Use the boxcar on track to determine loading bays directly onto the model wall. Loading bay doors are usually ten to twelve feet high by teen feet wide, etc. You need photos with clues to use as a guide to measure things from. It doesn't matter what device you use to measure for the model if you know the height of a door on a photo. Just roughly guage the increments from the door right off the photo to get heights, widths etc. Cheers.

[@stevenstorey1945]

Thank You, that helps a lot! I do remember now that you covered a regular door width and height to determine other measurements. CHEERS

[@thomream1888]

Hey Steven - Boomer covers it perfectly (as always!) and if you ever have a chance to photograph a building yourself, you might want to make a 'scale board' - cut a chunk of wood 12" square, paint it white on one side and black on the other. Then you can lean it on the building when taking your photo and it will give you exact measurements for everything in the photo. You can also get your wife/kids involved and have them hold the board next to a detail item. Also, think about making marks on the board to indicate 3", 6" and 9" lines. Ain't this a great hobby!

[@stevenstorey1945]

@@thomream1888 Thanks for the tip Thom! I never would have thought of that. Sounds like another great idea to find more exacting measurements! As Boomer would say, CHEERS

[@jasonplugowsky3086]

I know you got your answer but to help satiate your curiosity it was mentioned in the hopper build.

[@ericlakota4400]

Wow really good it was popping in front of My eyes

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . O.K. Cheers!

[@tcmr4250]

Does the wet on wet method work with "cheap acrylic craft paints" (hobby lobby, Michaels, etc.) as well, or are the pigments not high enough quality?

[@boomerdiorama]

It does, except the pigment is not as good. Anything is possible though. ;-)

[@harperlarry49]

I am going to jump in here and go out on a limb with my experience. I use the cheap craft paints for my wet on wet applications. The thing that I have found is it may take more layers to get the effect I want. Let each layer go completely dry and check the effect. If you like it, move on to your next step. If not, add another wet layer. I just take my time and have fun with it. Hope that helps - Larry.

[@tcmr4250]

Thanks Boomer! Most of my experience is with enamel paints for weathering so acrylics is a new adventure!

[@tcmr4250]

Thanks @@harperlarry49! I'll be trying out some of the craft acrylics to see they work!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@tcmr4250 That is the way I was as well over twenty years ago. I still use enamel "flats" here and there for dry brushing combined with oils. Although, I am fairly addicted to good quality acrylics now because they are superior pigment, easy to use, and dry rapidly. Furthermore, I can throw solvent based enamels over acrylics right away, as well, for additional filters and effects, etc. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@TJRohyans]

Absolutely the BEST Tutorial on shading, painting, blending that I've seen yet! Your explanations AS you're doing it is beyond invaluable. A person can read it, listen to it, look at still photos, but actually watching it being done is the best tutorial. Thanks Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow, thank you!

[@thomream1888]

Ah, you're not painting white, you're painting LIGHT. And Shadow. How many times have I (we) said "Nah, I don't need to practice painting silly circles"... and miss the point entirely! Thank God at 65 I can still learn - but it takes a good teacher to help turn that light on. Thanks Boomer - I hope you never get tired of doing the simple things over and over. I'm sure for you it gets boring, but for us newbies it's the only way for us to learn.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. Model Railroading never gets boring for me because there is always something new and different to paint - not to mention, new things to learn as well. The pending Brewery Paint Final will be a good demonstration on painting a "white" building with light and shadow. Very challenging, or rather, process intense but well worth it in the end. Cheers.

[@kensomething379]

One of the (many) things I'm stealing from your video is the grab (wire) bar idea. I have a model where if I even LOOK at the model the wrong way, one or two bars fall off, so I'm switching them to wire, which I already have. Thanks for the cool idea! plus on mine, if they are bent, it will be more realistic, saves me the trouble of "crinkling" plastic to look metallic!

[@boomerdiorama]

😁👍

[@bruceames6332]

Amazing just outstanding 👏 👌. Bruce from Minnesota

[@boomerdiorama]

Many thanks!

[@vikingofengland]

Superb as always. What this teaches me really is patience, which is what I don't always have. Let the layers build up but give yourself time to see the effects.

[@boomerdiorama]

Just move to another task when the first layer is down. Then come back to it. This is the way model railroading is. Cheers. ;-)

[@RichardKuivila1947]

The picture at the end looks like it's a Pristine machine, never been run ! Your final assembly shots look MUCH more realistic.

[@boomerdiorama]

Ahhh . . . the passage of time in the worlds we create. ;-)

[@phillipgrey]

I got mine from NJ International. There was a part missing from the kit, so I called them and got a rude east coast response from the chap I spoke to. They sent the part but was I tuned off. The kit came out well.

[@boomerdiorama]

It sucks when you get negative customer service like that. I'm glad it worked out. Cheers.

[@leonardosouza6290]

Great! God Bless you all!

[@boomerdiorama]

Bless you as well! Cheers.

[@donhanley1213]

Having spent over 30 years in utility engineering and project management for heavy highway construction very nice. A few observations 1: every excavator has horizontal rust steaks across the counter weight. They always rub across something that scrapes off the paint when the body swings around. 2: the pins on the hydraulic rams and pivots are greased every day. There's a lot of excess grease and dirt at those points. 3: a freshly painted bucket will have the paint wore off in less than a day. Depending on the humidity there can be some light rust on the raw steel the next morning. The amount and darkness of the rust you applied indicates the excavator hasn't been used in 3-4 weeks, which is not uncommon. Thanks for sharing your talent.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing. Cheers.

[@leebee9007]

Nice tutorial. Thanks for taking the time explaining what you are doing. Learned many new things. And the result is very good!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for watching!

[@JamesHiltonCustomModelRailways]

Every now and again one of your videos grabs me by the ….. and I have to watch the whole thing, end to end. The build up of layers is superb, I wondered if you were going to dry brush rather than wet on wet the very last hilight layer? What did you decide because through the edit you skip to assembly? Wonderful though. Thanks for sharing your methods in such an honest, calm, respectful and encouraging manner.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes, I use a dry brush method at the very end with "Oil Paint" to finish. Cheers and thanks for watching!

[@vincenthuying98]

Such a great video Boomer. Love how you show these different techniques on such small and particular surfaces. Watching your video tutorials definitely changed the way this humble viewer uses his paint. Definitely time to put the airbrush to work. Plus the awareness of letting the paints and water do their work. Indeed, mistakes evolve to be happy accidents, or can be part of a next step on the learning curve. Where before it sometimes felt like spit ball gone awry; now it all starts to make sense. With the personal touch, artistic license definitely evolving!!

[@boomerdiorama]

It's fun transforming the look of something with paint. Very relaxing process for me. ;-)

[@1BCamden]

Fantastic Boomer, the bucket grew into an excavator 🤣

[@boomerdiorama]

It makes for a nice little scene "vignette." ;-)

[@205004gs]

Absolutely remarkable! Now the little cat dozier has a friend. Great job and nice model!👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Fun, fun, fun!

[@harperlarry49]

Very nice work. The use of the white after the black base is new to me. I spent many years doing photography, specializing in Black & White. I just never thought about the shadow and highlights in my modeling. Damn....where was my head??? Thanks for that. Cheers - Larry.

[@boomerdiorama]

The old masters have taught it all along. ;-)

[@shorty9055]

Love the way you go from dark to light as a good painter should. It's amazing the different effects you can get by underlaying various colours. Looks awesome

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers!

[@PeterTillman3]

Awesome result and such an important tutorial.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you!

[@spankyfuentes3502]

Wish you posted a list of all the paints used. I have all the Tamiya colors I’m having issues figuring out each Vallejo color you used . Does yellow ochre come in a set from Vallejo? Please help. Best regards Spanky

[@boomerdiorama]

I usually show the number of the Vallejo paint in the video. Too many colors to list with Vallejo. Every color in the Vallejo "Air" line is available separately.

[@spankyfuentes3502]

Yes you did. All the materials and colors are on the way. Thank you Bommer

[@eeclass20]

Kit is really from the German company Kibri, Walthers seem to sell a few under their own brand.This one is catalogue number 16312, they do a very good long arm scrap yard clam shell type as well.

[@boomerdiorama]

With a little kit-bash and paint they look awesome.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers!

[@Andries1963]

Hi , I just wanted to say me and my wife are really enjoying your videos, I’ve been modelling for just over 50 years and it’s never to late to learn something new , thank you PS. If you don’t mind me asking in this video you use tweezers that seem to lock to hold your model to paint , where did you get them from or at least do you know the correct name of them so I can hunt the internet ? Thank you Andy

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you - that is awesome! They are called clamping tweezers. ;-)

[@Andries1963]

@@boomerdiorama thank you that’s great 👍

[@ericp6612]

That turned out great! Never would have thought to paint it black first and then add the yellow!

[@boomerdiorama]

It's one of many methods. ;-) Cheers.

[@joeraderblackrockcentralrr]

FANTASTC lesson. Beautiful results and you make it look so easy. Thank you

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@aaamodeltrainsandplanes3774]

Looks so awesome man . I love that aluminum paint also works well with doing the chipping effects . I did a p51 recently and put that stuff around the cockpit area it really brought it to life . Thank you for all the hard work you put into these videos very entertaining and educational .

[@boomerdiorama]

Just having fun! ;-)

[@benward5732]

Great Job on the excavator kit :) You could maybe use superglue de-bonder to free that ram?

[@boomerdiorama]

Probably yes! Thank you. Cheers.

[@bobainsworth5057]

I had an art teacher who told us , if you're looking at a photo to copy , turn the photo upside down and you eye see it differently and you really see what color you need. Another great video Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. You can put a mirror up to a scene and see issues with composition as well. ;-)

[@hge4476]

Thank you very much for putting the effort into making this tutorial. I appreciate it very much!

[@boomerdiorama]

You're very welcome!

[@OtterCreek]

Very nice! I will definitely start thinning my paint more!

[@boomerdiorama]

You get a nicer finish in the end when you build up thin layers. ;-)

[@spankyfuentes3502]

This is beautiful! Awesome! 👍🏽70x7

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@spankyfuentes3502]

This Hi rail modeled arrived yesterday from Midwest Modeler. I have all the Tamiya paints. All Iwata air brushes and accessories. I just ordered all the Vallejo colors off of Amazon. It’s off to Hobby Lobby in the am for the jewelry wire. This will be interesting challenge since I used to do 1/35 scale armor and N scale and Ho custom paint work. Thank you boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@spankyfuentes3502 Painting train stuff is really no different than the former subjects you mentioned - it's just another canvas.😁

[@johnschutt9187]

Absolutely incredible.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you John. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@kenmayer3785]

Well I don’t want to repeat what everyone else has said, so thank you for sharing how you achieve your amazing results. Every aspect of your model work is awesome.

[@kenmayer3785]

By the way, liked the music too 😀

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for taking the time to comment. You support the channel this way! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Castlebank_Sidings]

Another masterpiece MrB

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers! ;-)

[@schadowolf]

Amazing build and tutorial! Thanks for sharing!

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure!

[@hudson8865]

Thank you very much.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome!

[@Tardenglobe2346]

Excellent work 👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers!

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Awesome ♐👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@keithdenner9441]

Another great job!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@154Colin]

I am... "digging" it.

[@boomerdiorama]

;-)

[@deejayjonez599]

Master class!!!!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. Cheers DeeJay!

[@Christiane069]

About painting the parts before assembly in black. I like the hoses addition, it really adds.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers.

[@giulius7176]

Looks absolutely incredible!!!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. It's a nice little scene I am happy with. ;-)

[@_steffinwolf_]

Fantabulous!

[@boomerdiorama]

It was fun! thank you!

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Nice 😊

[@boomerdiorama]

;-) Cheers!

[@lanesteele240]

14:11. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

[@boomerdiorama]

I know . . . cool eh?😁