Panasonic Electric Razor battery replacement

[@exgenica]

Thanks for the video. It was instructive. Here are a few extra thoughts based on my experience and watching your video. 1) Do not pry UP on the grey plastic "C" clip that mechanically connects the sideburn trimmer one blade paddle nor on the other grey "C" clip. Horizontally push the "ears" on the ends of each "C" and gently pry or push/pull AWAY from the "C" opening using another flat-blade tool, tweezers, or very fine needle nose pliers and guide the "ears" as you do so. Take a very close look at the "C" clips in the video before you attempt to pry them off. When I watched the video I though he was prying UP on the clips and that could quickly break them. 2) While you are manipulating the internal assembly once it's out of the outer shell/casing, do NOT let the two white plastic blade paddle assemblies get separated. They seem to want to fall apart, so be alert. They can be reassembled, but it is a major pain to do so. You might want to consider using a rubber band to GENTLY hold them together...but do not use one that is very tight. There are some very thin plastic hinges on the paddles that could be easily bent or broken. If they do separate you have to be able to figure out how to attach the cam-pin-followers in the right order and ensure each is on the correct side of the razor (it makes a difference. One connects with the metal pin, the other connects to the plastic pin). It took me about 20 minutes to figure it out and another 40 minutes to reassemble just these two pieces after I made the mistake of testing the motor while the assembly was still out of the shell. The blade paddles flew several feet in different directions. 3) If you find you can get several days of shaving on a single charge, I strongly recommend NOT recharging the shaver every day. This applies whether you use NiCd or NiMH cells. (Also, do NOT use one NiCd cell and one NiMH cell.) However, it is especially important for NiMH cells in this specific case as explained below. The reason we need to be careful using NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) cells is that the circuit is designed to trickle-charge NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) cells. NiCd cells can be trickle-charged at about 10% of the total capacity of the cell without stressing the cell. However, NiMH cells can be trickle-charged at about only 5% of the total capacity, and even then prolonged trickle-charging can still stress NiMH cells and significantly shorten their lifetime. More than 5% trickle-charging stresses the cell and can lead to much shorter life of the cell. DaBinChe is getting by with using NiMH cells...to a degree...because he is: A) probably using NiMH cells with higher capacity than the original NiCd cells that were replaced. For example, if the original NiCd cells were 700mAh and the replacement NiMH cells are 1800mAh, then that's probably going to be fine. 10% of 700 (70mA) which is below 5% of 1800 (90mA), and... B) he is not leaving the charger plugged-in all the time. He may be still stressing the cells however so they may not have as long a total lifetime as would have 100% compatible NiCd cells. However, he will gain more minutes of shaving per charge for as long as the new cells last. 4) Pay attention to which is the "top" surface of the square rubber insert. It may be a bit difficult to tell from the video for some people so check it before and as you remove it from the top of the shaver. About the only place the video clearly shows the orientation is once at about 12:42 as he is reinserting the insert into the cutout for the blade paddles. Hope these help someone else.

[@GuardianRobots]

Thanks DaBin! Just because this is an old video don't think someone won't be blessed by it. I was given this razor by my Dad and it sat brand new in a closet for new for years. After swearing off electric shavers I decided to use it. Less than a month of, because of the age, the batteries started to go. I put in Amazon brand rechargeable batteries and used thick gauge copper wire, bent in a "V" shape, with the "V" point towards the top and it holds the battery in place and it works! Hardest part was the plastic clips. I accidentally turned it on an the head mechanism flew apart, but you are right it wasn't too difficult to figure out how to hook the 2 mechanical parts back together. Thanks again!!

[@DaBinChe]

Great razor, mine still going strong. On third set of batteries. Replace the blade/foil every year.

[@richm9255]

I have an ES8066 that I bought sometime in the 1990s. It is similar to this shaver and this video really helped me. The batteries died years ago and replacements are expensive. My internals came out thru the top. I took the razor apart as in this video but I don't think I really needed to do anymore than remove the 2 screws in the base. Taking the top apart did allow me to clean out all the debris so it was not in vain.

[@DerDermin8tor]

Thanks for the Video! Had to clean the switch after 21 years. Batteries and sealing still good, great quality

[@DaBinChe]

bad thing is can't get the blade and foil anymore

[@Jedda73]

Thankyou for this video, I used it to repair my ES883 which has been out of action for over a decade after I was informed that the batteries were no longer available for it when they failed. It only requires the bottom screws to be removed and then the outer shell slides off, a lot easier to access the batteries. I took a slightly different tact when installing the batteries, I bent the battery tabs inwards to firmly press against the battery terminals, and then pushed some rubber packing in behind the terminals at the top to help keep the batteries wedged in tight. I had a problem with the job though, one of the original batteries had become reverse polarity, meaning I couldn't identify which end was supposed to be positive from negative to install the new batteries. So after investigating the video plus a bit of reverse engineering the board, found the top terminals are negative and the bottom ones positive. This video was a big help as my original batteries appeared to have negative marked on them, but it was actually at the wrong end!

[@space931]

Thanks for the "maintenance" tour. Very helpful, and you described some issues I am familiar with from using my ES8066 for the last 10 years (or so) plus. Your tutorial lets me know I can expect more years of great use (with a little handwork)!

[@dukemd69]

Herb Matthews Hi herb: I have had mine some 12 years. Batteries finally died. His replacement batteries will save me $$$. Cheers.

[@jeffkeys8961]

Excellent. My shaver should last another 20 years now. I did a similar thing that DaBinChe did. I soldered the old tabs from the battery onto the neg end and some copper solder tape to the positive end.

[@matonatomic]

Thank you very much. Just followed your video step by step - you have saved me $350 on a new electric shaver.

[@keith.crackling]

Help! I have the ES765. Thanks so much for your video, followed it to get to the insides and get the batteries out successfully. Mine's 22 yo totally amazed at the Made In Japan units. Original batteries were Panasonic Ni-Mh labelled units. Held charge amazingly all these years but yeah came to a point the charge was too weak already and charging it the unit would get warmer than usual. Upon opening the right hand side battery had begun to leak a bit. I gently cleaned out any corroded bits, put in fresh Eneloop AA 1.2V 2000mAh set, carefully held down the top parts of shaving gears so nothing flew off and flipped the white switch arm. Indeed the motors ran full linear high speed no issues. I completed the replacement and carefully put everything back together and tested again, it would power on with same high speed linear sound. Put the unit on the charging stand, red LED lights up so it's charging. Now here's the 'help' part .. about 4 hrs later, I checked it, I see both the top & bottom LED lit together. The top Recharge red LED lit & the bottom Charging Status LED shows orange. Never seen this before. Took unit off the stand, slide the power on button but the units motor does not run with the same high speed linear sound instead the motor is frustratingly fluctuating high speed then slows down then up again, very unsure of itself, not linear high speed you'd expect. What happened? I'm so sad. Why is my using Eneloop AA not working. I searched for alternate batteries and can see some aftermarket battery specialist sellers offering 1.2V 2500mAh Ni-Mh units. Same right, just able to hold higher capacity charge for longer run times right. My Eneloop batteries were positioned both Positive Tips pointing down. The batteries in this unit is in parallel right, both are charged simultaneously by the Panasonic induction charger stand right? The behavior I describe is it possible only 1 battery is being charged and only 1 is supplying power when I power on? There r 2 induction coils at the bottom, one for each battery. My charging stand is RE3-63 says 170/250mA. On the ES765 body it says DC2.4V CHARGE TIME 1H. Is it possible the batteries are actually in series not parallel? One of the comments posted by a viewer said he found one battery had reverse polarity on his?

[@DaBinChe]

Never had any other lights go on for me. Your model could be slightly different from mine. When you took out the original batteries did you check which side is +/-? Is there full contact with the batteries at the +/-? Are your batteries good?

[@keith.crackling]

DaBinChe tks v much for your reply. Model is slightly different but checking on the net, most shavers of this period looked generally the same design. Induction coils at the bottom. I have 2 induction coils, model ES765. Yours has 1 coil, so your 1 coil was charging 2 batteries whereas my unit had the more common and perhaps updated 1 coil per battery. My Eneloop is from a new Panasonic pack (not Sanyo!). Says manufactured 2014, these things hold charge over time v well, had used 2 in another device so left 2 unused batteries which I used for the ES765. Original batteries are typical ocre\brown Panasonic Ni-MH unmarked units, so does not state + or -. Checking lots of online videos of similar shaver config indicates + is at bottom near to induction coils. And both batteries in same position. Assume this is in parallel config not in series. The key thing is I tested it is all working in linear high speed when the battery was fresh out of the pack. But once I put it on the charger, behavior thereafter isn't what I expected. Definitely nothing wrong with my charger. I have also seen some surprising videos\images of similar looking inside units showing the original batteries were NiCd .. could there be any issues using Eneloop AA batteries? My original batteries did state Ni-MH. Just thought this was supposed to be pain free and that I didn't have to go buy specific replacement batteries. Does it seem like I have to do that now? I will undo and check all contacts, the fluctuating behavior feels like it's underpowered.

[@keith.crackling]

I fixed it. The new batteries are larger in diameter so very tight fitting inside the shaver body such that it dislodges downwards that few millimetres in the final push into the shaver body so contacts are not solid. (Now we know why the original batteries have such long pins to avoid any such issues.) Fixed by redoing reusing springs from push pens in the - ends and on + ends used the ends of cable ties to wedge into back of contact pins to push it fwd to make the final solid contact, snip off before closing and screwing up the base plate. Now finally charges up without any orange LED showing (now we also know orange LED indicates one of batteries not fully charged) and motor speed totally high speed linear, and after full charge the Recharge LED lights up bright Green! What a wonderful sight. Now it is so powerful feels like it's about to take off! I'm trying to find some of that maintenance oil and also oil for IPX7 waterproofing.

[@HazemChaaban]

Excellent video, I followed the instructions and it is currently charging!

[@kkang_j]

Hi, I'm Korean and I'm using National ES7003. This decomposition is ADOPTABLE for my ES7003. almost same. Thank You!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

I have an old ES8026. I' considering swapping the batteries on it. It has held pretty well up until now, but it's starting to be a little sluggish. I suspect one of the two batteries is done for. I might just ride it out until it stops running completely. Still the best shaver I have. I did buy some Arc Models, but they aren't as good compared to the original Linear line. A shame, really.

[@DaBinChe]

yeah they really are good shavers...too bad the replacement blades aren't available anymore. I think I have replace the batteries on mine twice. Mine is over 25years old. This current batteries is starting to die too still runs strong if left on charger but doesn't seem to hold a strong charge if off the charger all day even after being on the charger overnight.

[@hosseinrezaei.m5395]

Thank you.......Thank you😅

[@jancieslak8479]

Jakie powinny być akumulatorki (parametry) do tej golarki? Bardzo proszę o informację Pozdrawiam serdecznie Piotr

[@DaBinChe]

On my shaver the original batteries are NiCad but I'm using NiMH. Both chemistry have slightly different cell voltage with NiMH being a little lower volts when fully charged. Because of this using NiMH the charger will never show full charge so you have to take the shaver off the charger or it will overcharge and can cause a fire or explode. With that said I have never had a problem even leaving on the charger for a couple of days. The cell size is AA but the original is slightly longer so needs to be shimmed with a piece of copper. The current problem I have with this shaver is that the replacement blades are no longer available and mine is starting to get dull after a few years since last replacement, but I only use it a few times a week.

[@robviolin1]

Great vid. What is a good shaver that will last and is easy to change the batteries?

[@DaBinChe]

+robviolin1 Don't know, I have had this for more over 20years, just change the foil/blade every few years

[@robviolin1]

+DaBinChe thanks for your reply.

[@turkeclipse]

Have a stupid question. Where did you get the copper is it a specific gauge?

[@DaBinChe]

easiest way is to use a copper wire, hammer it flat and bend it into a U to take up the space.

[@turkeclipse]

@@DaBinChe Thanks for the quick response. My ES8066 lasted me 20 years. I bought several newer shavers but I always went back to this one. I have mine apart. Just waiting for the batteries. :)

[@Didereaux]

good vid. gotta add your 'shakes' make me nervous! lol

[@nitingarge7160]

Sir which battery I can Choose To Replace in panasonic ES 727 shaver Model..?? please tell me.. Thanks

[@DaBinChe]

AA size NiMH, just don't let it charge for too long or it will overcharge and blow up. I like to use Eneloop brand

[@nitingarge7160]

@@DaBinChe Thank you Very Much Sir, I will Replace It with Eneloop NiMh AA 1200 , 🙏

[@isaacandandanne]

Do you know the model number for replacement battery or specs? The original batteries are blank.

[@DaBinChe]

they are AA batteries, I'm using Panasonic Eneloops

[@yagousera]

Panasonic Part Number: WES882L2508. This is a specialty battery. Would advise as he said with those rechargeable but cut the ends of the old battery and find some way to solder or weld them to the new batteries.

[@jeffkeys8961]

DaBinChe is right. I'm also using Eneloops but with some copper tape soldered to the + to make sure of contact.

[@mabelboone8976]

GET DURRACEL