Parabolic Trough Solar Powered Water Heater

DIY parabolic trough solar concentrator provides all the heat for back yard hot tub. Completely self sufficient off the grid, using commonly available materials.

[@paulrothenburg1945]

that is just a brilliant idea, my hot tub is running of an external fire stove. it take about 4 hours to heat mine up to but your constantly loading wood onto it and hovering around it for fire safety. awesome idea manufacturers need to look after you.

[@TLEBC]

Bruce: Please do not interpret my quest for knowledge into such systems as an affront to your ideas or design. My previous comments were only to help me in my design of a similar system and I appreciate the thoroughness and intelligence you have offered myself and others on this discussion. You have obviously done considerable research on the topic before building your system, fully understood and appreciated, but even the best ideas can sometimes benefit from peer review, even if the peers are further up the curve from yourself. I am totally convinced that your genius solution does a great job of tracking the sun, despite your comments below. Similar systems have been in operation for decades, often with exemplary service history. None of this would ever stop me or others from open debate on the subject, you just never know what might develop or lessons learned. Fortunately, we live in a society which allows and encourages this. Thank you for sharing your excellent research and divulging your ideas. I was blown away by the use of a cordless drill to act as a cheap electric motor; I have about three of my own waiting for a new battery... such ideas truly inspire me. I wish you continued success with your project, it has indeed educated and motivated me towards my own solution for a roof-top system. You have enlightened me greatly about the challenges ahead and I may very well choose your tracking system, or utilize the open source controller you have divulged. Thank you.

[@snailer06]

TLEBC I am really enjoying all the feedback and ideas. I would caution you about putting moving parabolic troughs on a rooftop. Beware of wind load. I would think of a non-moving HORIZONTAL configuration would be better when you can possibly get winds exceeding 40mph. You could have it bolted down and adjust it seasonally for the low or high sun angle. not moving would mean you'd only have to manage the pump on or off.

[@mac-doien9298]

nice... and unlike some critiques.. I appreciate the professionalism o 'Siri' it's 200% better than waving a microphone around on a windy day.. automating your voice allows for a constancy of volume and meter.. although there's room for emporvment you are not shy of being on the forward leaning edge of technology.. any way, just wanted to say BrAVO.. keep up the GreaT StuFF..!! you make you mama papa proud, I'm sure..!!

[@danielmagsacay8053]

this project is one of the best.. glad I check on your video.. thanks for this..

[@joseanperez4406]

This is exactly what I was thinking!!! Excellent job

[@snailer06]

180 gallons. It swings about 20° F in a day. I have a 6 inch thick insulated cover and I've insulated inside the side covers. I'm thinking about using closed-cell foam directly on the inside of the tub fiberglas. that would probably help significantly with heat loss. The reason I haven't done that yet is because hot tubs are notorious for leaks. With the foam, it would be hard to track down the source of a leak. I'm working on collecting data now.

[@yetanotheryoutubeprofessio9742]

The beginning was like wtf is this, and then the robo voice.. but great construction and problem solving work dude!

[@TLEBC]

Awesome, entertaining and inspiring video, Bruce. Well done! Feel Good is actually onto something, I think. The appropriate angle of the parabolic mirror could be derived mathematically or perhaps, by known values based on the mirror's latitude and longitude, derived from a chart or spreadsheet. Although Bruce's system is "real time" and uses simplistic logic, it requires a separate electromechanical system to track the sun's location, which introduces complexity and potential for failure. Overall, this is an impressive project.

[@snailer06]

Thanks for the positive words. It's trickier than you think to aim a parabolic mirror array using maths alone. Unlike horse shoes and hand-grenades, you can't be a little off. It is much easier to use maths to aim a photo-voltaic because if you're a few degrees off, it makes virtually no difference in the efficiency of the unit. However, with the parabolic mirrors, if you are a few minutes ahead or behind, results fall off precipitously. No matter how good your calculations of where the sun will be, it will only be there for an instant. WHICH instant becomes the question. So having a dead-on clock is essential. It can't drift like most of the "real-time" clock modules sold. In real conditions, there is a big heat swing form day to night and the clock is thrown off a little bit by that. My clock is off by 3 minutes per week because of the extreme operating conditions. You mentioned using a table to calculate the sun angle. Remember, I'm running this standalone on an Arduino, not connected to a computer. The Uno only has 32k of program space. My simple little program uses about 20k. Most of the sensors and functions of the system I'm using now, like ambient light sensor, temperature sensor and readout, the pump and position motor are essential even if you had no position sensor, and used maths instead. For instance, even if you used programming to tell it "when" to be at "what angle", you still wouldn't want it to circulate water when it's raining, or if it reached the upper temperature limit. And even if you had a perfect clock, perfect position calculation, knew EXACLY where the array was (with the help of an angle sensor or position sensor along with another table or formula), could start and stop the array with pinpoint accuracy, you still wouldn't "know" FOR SURE that it was pointed exactly at the sun. (it would be blind) btw: I've been developing a much simpler sensor for position and ambient light, with no electronics or moving parts on the array. STAY TUNED!

[@TLEBC]

Bruce Snyder Interesting, I never imagined that the precision required was so great,. Again, thanks for your sharing your research here, your personal efforts, freely shared, can save people like us much grief and strife as well as educate. My instinctive reaction is to think that this level of precision, which greatly affects performance, can somehow be negated. My thoughts return to your comical segment where you focus a magnifying glass on a plastic toy soldier (I too remember that smell from my childhood, I'm 51). The degree of accuracy in this toy soldier example has latitude; if you focus the energy on the torso, or the neck, or the legs, or the head, the toy soldier burns all the same. Cannot the water conduit location or shape, or curvature of the parabola (or both) be modified to build in a higher degree of directional error?

[@snailer06]

TLEBC Let's talk about your analogy, the soldier. There are 2 axes in a (parabolic trough) solar collector. When you're talking about head-to-toe aiming (north-south) you're right, it can and does vary (every day of the year) and the angle can be about 10 to 15 degrees off FROM TOP TO BOTTOM and the sun is merely reflected partially off the end of the trough (resulting in a corresponding 10 to 15 percent reduction in efficiency). Many of the largest parabolic trough installations in the world are oriented horizontally to reduce the amount of piping not in the collector's focus (the loop to the next collector), and to make it so they only have to move a little up or down once daily to follow the sun's arc. They are designed longer than they need to be so the sun that glances at an angle off the sides is accounted for. On a vertical design like mine, east-to-west is the critical one for "aim". When your aim is off in the critical direction, all that focussed goodness goes back out into space, producing NO heat, except what hits the front of the pipe, not concentrated. Modifying the shape of the pipe (which is already the most expensive part) wouldn't help because the wider it is, the more it blocks out the sun in the middle, which is where the HOTTEST rays are, because the sun is bouncing almost straight back onto the inside of the pipe. Before I built this, I did some research into different parabolic shapes (an oxymoron: there is only one perfect parabola) in which they try to focus the light from more forgiving angles. They turn out to be a compromise in terms of efficiency. There is a theoretical "double" parabola design, but it seems like it would require some high-tech to build. IF THERE'S ONE THING I'VE LEARNED, THERE IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THEORETICAL AND ACTUAL RESULTS. Anyway, you seem to not believe me that my solution does a great job of tracking the sun. Most sunny days the unit parks east before the sun goes behind the trees because the water gets to my 105° target temp. My tracker actually has no moving parts and is very reliable. The genius and the simplicity of the design, where the tracking "eye" rides along with the collector is irrefutable. So it seems you are in search of a solution where there isn't a problem.

[@bestelectricsaving]

this is one awesome project... thanks for this I can start with this project soon..

[@antonioosoriokory]

Gracias por compartir algún día el conocimiento sera del dominio publico como la trigonométrica. saludos de México.

[@pindrop]

Install a second solar or photovoltaic panel, a super small one, simple to detect sunlight levels. If there is a cloud the second small panel will have a dip in power and you can detect it. You can program this to know what when the second panel “the cloud detection panel” doesn’t see the sun that it needs to wait instead of attempting to track.

[@snailer06]

I'm using a $3 LDR to do just that. It shows kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqavi6WOnMqamM0 at 4:05

[@jacobezuidenhout176]

Hi Bruce, I like it that you used an Ardunio! I'm new to the microcontroller, but bought one a week ago to do exactly what you did. Would you mind sharing with me your Arduino setup (HW) and would you share the software?

[@snailer06]

The inside of the hot tub IS black. I've tested it with the 6" top open in full sun and it gains a little heat that way IF it's not cold out or windy, otherwise, it cools down. Putting on one of those pool bubble-wrap things doesn't help either because it negates the effect of the black. The laws of physics tell us it would have to be hotter out than the temp. of the water to gain heat by having the top open. Which other part of it you would want black? And where do you point the death ray?

[@MrOldManP]

What is the capacity of your hot tub? Do you have an estimated heat loss due to convection/conduction from your hot tub to the environment?

[@gracewakiuru8325]

This is a brilliant idean could you kindly show us how you assembled the whole thing

[@snailer06]

Here, "Grace of the Nine Founders": kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIvHm6l8a9qharM

[@kamalzaghloul2920]

i would like to thank you , for this video , but i have a question about the material that you used in this prototype ?

[@thanosm1330]

You could use 2 light sensors like that: .I. The dots are the sensors and the I is a sheet of wood or something like that. If the sun is to the right, the right sensor gets more light since the left sensor is in the shadow of the sheet. So you turn right until the left sensor gets equal or more light. You do the opposite if the left sensor gets more light. You repeat that every minute and you are good to go. Also you stop tracking if the sum of both sensors is below some value.

[@snailer06]

Yes, that's the first design I tested. I made a program that worked back and forth to "zero in" on the sun. But then I read a very wise and funny comment online that made me rethink that approach: the sun always moves from east to west relative to the collector-- it never moves backwards! So I set out to make it so it can never get "ahead" of the sun, and have to waste energy going backwards. Now I have a simple program that only moves west when the sun has moved west a bit, and is shining straight down the slit, causing a maximum reading. I turn on the motor while reading the sensor and stop when it creates a shadow again.

[@thanosm1330]

Of course you are not wrong, but there may be a case when the sun is blocked for some reason (clouds for example) and the device may overpass it. Also by having two sensors you have instant adjustment to low direct sunlight (for example when the sun is partially covered). You also have definite knowledge of the light level since at least one of the sensors faces the sun. Anyway, the exact algorithm I described will provide exactly the same functionality as yours in the general case, it will not move backwards if it doesn't need to (I didn't say that you should track the sun continuously, your idea of adjusting the position once in a while is good for power saving). My algorithm is also easier to program since you don't have to care about special cases and states. Each minute you just read the sensors and decide what to do. Since you already have it working though you don't have any reason to change anything if you don't have any overpassing issues.

[@boatdude10]

Bruce have you made available the code you you used?

[@snailer06]

The prototype cost about $400 USD. But now that I have it much simplified, I could build one for about $280 in parts. I have it tuned to be more efficient so I get about 20°F of heating (84° in the morning to 104° by the end of a sunny day). That's all the heat it needs to be completely off the grid heating-wise. I figure it costs me about $30/month to heat it using electricity. So it would pay for itself (not including your time assembling it) in about a year.

[@giorgioart1]

Nice work, what did you use to Arduino controller code? sorry for my english

[@X02switchblades]

use a long strip of pv to get the concentrated rays into electricity and run a pipe over it to cool it you have 2 in 1

[@nopenopenopenopenotnow]

how much did all of this cost?

[@WisdomInExperience]

Wow, I am really impressed. Hats off to you. I am computer programmer, I also want to learn Ardiuno. Is it easy to learn and experiment at home ?

[@snailer06]

+Shivo hum You can buy a kit with all the different input and output parts (sensors and motors, diodes, resistors and LEDs) and a book with example lessons. That's the way I first learned Arduino. Like this: www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=13955&gclid=CjwKEAjw9OG4BRDJzY3jrMng4iQSJABddor1bgstwjh8dDV_dqZznrWoM47SyMJeA8g4Hrsf3rkzUxoCN6Dw_wcB

[@snailer06]

Mr "Feel Good" comments: "Would be simpler to just rotate the whole setup at the speed of a 24 hr clock". Well Mr. Good, that's actually a good question, and one that I considered before I worked on the tracking version. Let me re-phrase your question; Why not just follow the sun mathematically, instead of trying to 'track' it? It seems easy enough-- just start the array at a certain time each day and move it at the speed of the sun. What could be easier? Until you actually try to do it... the Pros: (why you would do it this way) • simple*, foolproof* concept • works equally as well in sun or clouds • easier to program* the Cons: • the efficiency of a concentrating parabolic collector falls off sharply if you are even a little off with your aim. If you start it moving in the morning one or more minutes late, even if you are moving it at exactly the right speed throughout the day, it would be behind all day, which will result in very poor performance (very little heat gain). If you move it at the wrong speed, you will get even worse performance. • the assumption that, the sun travels at the same speed through the sky during the year, is false. "The sun goes around the earth once every 24 hours, doesn't it?" In reality, every single day of the year is different. Therefore, you must speed up or slow down the movement every day, as well as adjust the start and end times. How do you figure out where the sun should be? Since the sun travels faster or slower from east to west at different times of year, you can't just move the collectors at a single rate every day. The controller needs to know exactly how fast to move, and when to start moving west each day. To do that, you need to know at least two things; exactly where on earth the collector is, and the date/time. Given the coordinates, you can calculate the position of the sun in the sky at any given moment. But it is far from easy to calculate. The first factors to consider are; how far from the nearest time zone you are, and whether it is standard or daylight savings time. You could take your time/date and location adjusted for the first two factors and plug that into a formula that will give you the approximate position. Then you command the array to go to those coordinates at the exact right time. You could experimentally move the array to different angles, measure the angle (and corresponding position) and develop a conversion formula that converts the desired angle into a position of the linear actuator. The earth rotates around its axis 366.25 times for each time it orbits the sun once. The earth revolves around the sun in the same direction to its rotation (counter-clockwise looking from the north pole), so one day must be subtracted per year. This subtraction is done by dividing one year by 365.25, yielding 24 hour days (approx.) that are perfectly the same length by the clock. Since you cannot have one-fourth of one day, the fourths are saved up and one "leap" day is added once every four years. The fact that 24 hour days are an AVERAGE, means that the sun will NOT be in the same place each day at the same time. As an example, "astronomical noon" occurs at a different time and position almost every single day of the year. Therefore any attempt of synchronizing the array to be "straight up at noon" will not work. You can plot the Analemma for noon in your location and then extrapolate X number of minutes backwards to get the start time each day. At any rate, these calculations would need to be done by Arduino. (Uno, limited to 32,256 byte maximum) The bottom line with a parabolic reflector, you MUST be aimed exactly, or it is almost useless. * presumably

[@Sugarsail1]

You could just do it open loop, then you don't need the shade sensors and if there are clouds it doesn't matter. You can get the data as to where the sun is any day of any year from the Nautical Almanac or any celestial navigation software will output the coordinates you need anytime based on your lat/lon and UTC.

[@Sugarsail1]

Sugarsail1 the additional advantage is if you used a stepper motor you would have the mirrors positioned exactly perfect at all times instead of incrementing every the sensor gets covered with shade.

[@Sugarsail1]

Sugarsail1 Actually there are a lot of off-the-shelf amateur astronomy trackers that might be adapted to this application as well.

[@jackparr3870]

Bruce Snyder "But it is far from easy to calculate." I'm not sure this would be a problem when it would be a computer doing the calculations, based on a formula, fed by real-time info from a website say once per minute. "how far from the nearest time zone you are" this doesn't matter as the algorithm used to calculate the sun's position doesn't rely on this piece of information it uses your global coordinates Also you go into detail on leap years which wouldn't effect the accuracy as at the end of each day the script running on the computer is re synced to the exact values from a website. I feel your over thinking this, after trying a couple of different scripts i think this is a very viable option for sun tracking. After all how do you think the heliostats power stations track the sun, Because they definitely don't have an individual sensor on each mirror array when usual power plants exeed 1000 individual units. BTW here is a good website which will output the exact position of the sun at any given time :) www.pveducation.org/pvcdrom/properties-of-sunlight/sun-position-high-accuracy

[@snailer06]

Jack Parr Hi Jack Parr (really?). You understand this is NOT hooked up to a computer or the internet, right? My goal on this project was something you could deploy in a remote location anywhere on earth and turn on and it would just work. Another goal was that the control system would cost less than $50. Sure power plants and computer-tethered units have no trouble making the calculations, but they cost way more than $50. I'm running this thing off an Arduino with 32k of memory that costs $20 plus a few $3 relays. Another thing to think about is translating the angles derived from a sun position algorithm (azimuth and altitude) into machine commands so that the array is pointed where the calculations think it should be. You would need accurate angle position sensors. I've seen people try to use accelerometers and other sensors, but I'm suspicious of their accuracy. I'm all for a simpler solution, SHOW ME YOUR IDEA WORKING! ;o)

[@liraziyad5806]

Bruce you are one sexy man! I say this because you built this semi complex machine all for a simple heater and easily explain it like it was making cereal for breakfast. I LOVE a man that thinks and builds! I was literally just asking myself if there was a way to track the sun and move my solar water heater when I stumbled across your video. Now, my question is "How much approx did this system cost to build?" "Do you have a specific reference on how to build this system OR in my case part of this system"? Lastly "How would you feel about building another one on my farm? If I paid and put you up of course?" Ok, maybe not the last part but I really would like info and Thanks for making the video and explaining it.

[@melvinmcinnis9466]

12 degrees..... C or F ?

[@rexxbailey2764]

AT WAT LEVELS CAN IT TURN DAT WATER TO STEAM??.. I MEAN HOW MUCH BIGGER DOES THE CONCENTRATOR AVE TO BE TO TURN THE WATER DIRECTLY TO STEAM ??... CAN THE EXACT SAME APARATURS SHOWN IN THE VIDEO BE USED TO TURN WATER DIRECTLY TO STEAM ??? . SOME INFO WUD BE HELPFUL REGARDS.

[@snailer06]

Hi Rex. UR Speling makes U sound stoopid. Also U SHUD lose the CAPS. Jus Sayin. The SIZE of the reflectors DUSINT MATTUR, they CUD make steem very easily, but you WUD need 2 use different materiulz so they WUDNT melt. When the pump stopped working one time, the water got up over 300 degreez and melted the plastic pyp. U just SLO the circulating pump down to almost nuthin. Also, U WUD need 2 install a back-flow valve so the steem WUD create pressure 2 drive a turbine 2 make electrisity. Also, you WUD have to keep adding water, because it iz an open-loop system and the STEEM WUD EVAPERATE.

[@snailer06]

It makes steam easily enough... the slower you pump the water through the pipes, the hotter it gets, but there is less volume of water being heated. The quantity of steam depends on the size of the array. There are serious safety concerns when you make steam. You build up pressure and high heat which makes the apparatus dangerous and much more complex. What do you want to do with the steam anyway?

[@rexxbailey2764]

Bruce Snyder THANKS A LOT FOR THE REPLY MR SNYDER.... AND GUESS WID TRYING UR HAND WID SPELLING AS FANTASTIC AS ME U MUS AVE GOT A PRETTY GOOD TASTE OF HOW IT FEELS TYPING WID A NOT SO GOOD KEYBOARD :) .. AND AS U HAD MENTIONED IN THE FRST PART OF UR POST ABOUT ATTACHING A TURBINE WELL DAT IS EXACTLY THE PURPOSE I AVE BEEN LOOKING INTO DAT I WAS ASKING U MY QUESTIONS SIR.. WANTED TO KNOW A BIT ABOUT A SETUP WHICH WUD ALLOW FOR SOLAR HEATED WATER TO TURN INTO PRESSURISED STEAM TO TURN A TURBINE FOR PRODUCING ELECTRICITY.. SO JUS WANTED TO KNOW WAT WUD BE NEEDED TO MAKE WATER NOT JUS INTO STEAM BUT INTO PRESSURISED STEAM FOR THE SAME PURPOSE.

[@jose-t3k1]

Thank you,i live un canary island

[@iamimad123456]

And Y do you use google reader

[@alcoppa2682]

The only problem that I have is that a million dollars in parts are used to increase the temperature of the water 12 degrees. I will have to think about that for a while. Painting the hot tub black and using a martian death ray ( a mirror ) might do the same thing for less money. AL

[@bonez13061991]

Amazing! thanks

[@riyadahmednajm]

Can I have your program code please.

[@fungames24]

I had a copy of it from his other video. The important bit is the "cooked" bit at the end that causes heating of the water. for(v A((u A((e A((r-2?0:(V A(1[U])),"C") ),system("stty raw -echo min 0"),fread(l,78114,1,e),B(e),"B")),"A")); 118-(x =*c++); (y=x/8%8,z=(x&199)-4 S 1 S 1 S 186 S 2 S 2 S 3 S 0,r=(y>5)*2+y,z=(x& 207)-1 S 2 S 6 S 2 S 182 S 4)?D(0)D(1)D(2)D(3)D(4)D(5)D(6)D(7)(z=x-2 C C C C C C C C+129 S 6 S 4 S 6 S 8 S 8 S 6 S 2 S 2 S 12)?x/64-1?((0 O a(y)=a(x) O 9 [o]=a(5),8[o]=a(4) O 237==*c++?((int (*)())(2-*c++?fwrite:fread))(l+*k+1[k]* 256,128,1,(fseek(y=5[k]-1?u:v,((3[k]|4[k]

[@Oshell69]

Like the concept and the video just would rather hear a real voice than the robot one.

[@piratepuke37]

good stuff

[@dieselscience]

Did a robot make this video?

[@alexfry1855]

What's with the voice? Is it disguised? Cool invention.

[@snailer06]

At first, I recorded the whole thing with my own voice. There were two problems; keeping my voice consistent in volume, tone, pitch, speed, etc. between "takes", and the fact that my own voice PUTS MOST PEOPLE TO SLEEP WITHIN SECONDS! So I used the Mac's built-in "speaking" voice. I can change the words and re-record it and it plugs in perfectly. As a bonus, it sounded like a 50s robot voice, which works nicely with the overall "sci-fi" concept of the video. Watch the end of version 2 for the ultimate resolution of that concept: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqavi6WOnMqamM0

[@pastorjohnculbertson661]

I like the open source software as I'm a Linux fan and banned windows from my home.

[@feelgood2454]

Would be simpler to just rotate the whole setup at the speed of a 24 hr clock.... AND if placed over a tin roof.... warmer energy would be captured to keep the water warmer than if exposed to the cooler night air. I'm just a freaking genius

[@MuhammadRabieOmar]

This robot is the mac os narrator! haha i guess so.

[@dennisharold5030]

you can learn from inplix plans how to make it by yourself.

[@PastorDaveTube]

This was kind of cool...or hot.

[@Eionful]

Useful information but, your reading of the script sounds terrible.., try improving the narrative.

[@passedhighschoolphysics6010]

Arduino code on Github

[@JohnJohnson-dj2dv]

The "music" was extremely annoying.

[@pegdimarco5316]

I did it quickly and efficiently with instructions from Avasva webpage.

[@mwatershoes]

Pretty sure that's a robot talkin'. Just sayin'.

[@nannettebattista3047]

great infos on inplix, check that out

[@shonegreenzoom6450]

Соларна електрана/ Solar power plant

[@TLEBC]

... Or possibly you are a robot and we all know that we cannot trust robots... Just kidding!

[@victor-hn1bh]

needed brains to build. but has you only get a 12 degree temperature rise. .This is not cost effective . this solar concentrator cost a fortune to build for small gains in temp not worth the time .

[@snailer06]

+vic stoc I kept making it more efficient until I reached 20° in 4 hours of full sun. It costs about $400 USD to build. The electricity would have cost me $30/month or almost $400 every year. I've had it running for 3 years so far, so "This is not cost effective" is harsh, don't you think? Also, I get my electricity from a coal-fired power plant. (40% of that dirty electricity is lost in the power grid on the way to my house.) So as a result I assign a great value to any electricity (for heating) I can avoid buying from them. A 20° rise in temp in 4 hours means that the system gets up to temperature within 2 days and then "coasts" most of the time. During the night when it is not being heated by the sun, it cools down LESS than 20°, so the next day it only has to heat about 10 ° or so. As for the brains to build, I can't help you there. I barely have enough for myself.

[@WarrenGarabrandt]

Stupid hard to understand robot computer voice from Windows XP.. Please just tell us about your designs! We want to hear you explain it, not MS Sam.

[@snailer06]

+Warren Garabrandt Hi Warren. Noooooo! Not windoze XP!! I'm a Mac guy. Sorry you don't like it, but that voice is way better than mine. You say, "We" but I'm not sure everyone would agree. ;o)

[@JanetWilham]

that robot voice has got to go--.

[@snailer06]

Maybe it sucks, but I assure you it's better than my voice, plus it solved a number of production issues. At the end of the newer version of this video, I reveal why the robot is narrating: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqavi6WOnMqamM0

[@consartwork]

your voice and your video is so sick.