Parking Brake Adjustment on 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe LT

Removal of rear calipers, caliper mounting bracket, and rotor/drum to access the parking brake adjuster. Please reference this video • Suburban parking brake... by "1947froggy" since I learned how to do this from froggy's video.

[@paulkaufman4901]

I realize this video is very old but it helped me 🙂 I can't believe how much people complained about the loctite! I knew what it was but kept watching. You had exactly the same problem I have and I wondered if simply adjusting the expanders would solve my issue. Given your successful experience with this "fix" I'm going to try it instead of replacing cables and other parts. I know this is late but, Thank You!

[@COFFEE-e3p]

" brother and everybody else , always always , make sure your vehicle is well supported with jack stands, tire itself, large blocks of wood , concret blocks, even stones,.....you want to feel very confident when you or just part of your body is under the vehicle....stay safe all !!

[@kimmadison5504]

Witch way to turn to tighten and what way to loosing champ

[@flyurway]

That stuff on the threads is the opposite of anti-seize, it's thread lock to keep it from falling apart on the road and also to make it bleed all the way off when you go to take it apart! Those bolts are pretty tight, rather than screwing around with double-wrenching or lengths of pipes the best tool is a 1/2" drive short 18mm on one of those extra long swivel-head ratchets, like the long ones from Craftsman. The head swivels so you can get clearance and it gives you decent leverage, they work pretty well for only about $30 so they're a decent investment for the tool box. Good for smashing shit when you get pissed off too.

[@ecgodsmack86]

Correct

[@deanpeterson2272]

Good grief, stop your yammering and show us how to adjust the brakes!

[@deeblue984]

lolol

[@mrk7201]

Hello can't you were just readjusters from the rear with everything togethe

[@eddiej.2354]

​@mrk7201 I know what you meant to say. The adjustment for the rear brakes is through an oval shaped hole behind the rear brakes. No need to remove all brake hardware to adjust if needed but if the adjuster is frozen than remove the brake calipers and brake rotors.

[@iMotoTactic00L]

Not anti seize dude its a thread locker meduim

[@jdwithheld8915]

already questioning this guy's basic knowledge/judgement. If it had been antiseize, he prolly would not have had to use a cheater bar & bottle jack to break it loose!!!!!! will continue watching just for intertainment…..

[@thesetruths1404]

I bought a 2005 Yukon, 218,000 miles, and the parking brake cable in the cab was missing so I replaced it. Then I realized the parking brake doesn't engage enough to stop it from rolling from even a slight sloping hill, entirely empty. So something is not working right. How should I confirm what is broken? Are there other components that can fail that would cause the parking brake not to work? Should I disassemble both rear wheel rotors and visually checked it out? Thanks!

[@SkinnySkinch]

That's called thread locker, not anti seize. Threadlocker keeps a bolt from backing out and makes them much harder to break free when removing with a tool. Anti Seize keeps a bolt from rusting and seizing in place. Antisieze actually makes it easier to remove.

[@Kyle-ev4fk]

wow, very informative! I learned this person lives by an airport.

[@UncleSarkis]

Those 18mm bolts that hold thr caliper brackets are tightened to 85 foot pounds.

[@kcoachkiser]

Anti-seize is a lubricant used to prevent bolts from becoming rusted on. What your seeing is the opposite with the yellow stuff on the bolts, it is a form of loc-tite.

[@joefenech6839]

Yes, you are correct

[@TheTaffyLover]

kcoachkiser threadlocker

[@ixxgxx]

Surfed the whole net on which way to turn the adjuster. Hoping this would easily show it, it did not. Nor did it say which direction it tightens

[@jlongreviewwatch2413]

How did this turn out for you did the parking brake work when you were done? And yes those bolts were a pain in the but when I removed them. I'm thinking it was the type of lock tight that your supposed to heat up with a torch but I'm not certaink. I used a long extension bar and broke them loose, but about had an aneurism in the process. At any rate I'm still very curious how this turned out for you if the emergency brake worked when you were done. Thanks man.

[@joefenech6839]

Yes it worked

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

I used a floor jack and then sat on the bumper real hard. Still had t o use the jack for the first few turns out. I bought new shoes and new rotors because somehow mine was ate all up, had a deep groove in the drum of the rotors. those rotors seem speedy to look at but you can get brand new ones that look like factory for 40 bucks each at autozone. I got my new shoes on eBay though because they are not cheap as I liked anywhere else. this is the same as mine, yukon 2001 denali.AWD anti seize would have made it easier. that shits like yellow lock tight. i thought the bolt was going to break the hell off i was torquing on it so hard. i heard another video say to put 180 pounds on that bolt. LOL

[@COFFEE-e3p]

when lossening a bolt walk it gentle back and forth , 1/4 turn ,at the start until its out !!

[@noneyabuiznezz]

why would anti seize make the bolt seize? isn't that what Loctite is supposed to do?

[@nohyphens]

I think you mean loctite and not anti-seize.....

[@shaffer4220]

I give you an A for trying and attitude but you will need to brush up quite a bit on nomenclature (not anti seize), to the point explanation and I would add in “measuring” the thickness of rotors and inside diameter of rotor where parking brake shoes ride for tolerance. Hang in there.

[@unionse7en]

Threadlocking compound does two favorable things: 1) (Obvious - ) Keeps fasteners from coming loose when you don;'t want them to come loose. 2) (Less Obvious - ) Lets you get things apart when you DO want to unthread them.....the compound prevents corrosion from entering the thread space. A moderate amount of heat will help release the loctite when desired.

[@mpegguy2741]

It is *absolutely imperative* that you use either more lock tight or go get new bolts (about $3.00 each) from the dealer when you put it back together. That yellow lock tight keeps the bolts from vibrating out. I know this from experience!!! It is really "exciting" when your caliper comes off at 60 MPH!!! I have always used new bolts, so I would be interested if anyone has used red or blue Locktight from the auto parts store.

[@joefenech6839]

Thank you

[@aarondebrey895]

You have to use red threadlocker. I used blue once, and the bolt came off, ruined a z-71 wheel from the head of that bolt in contact with the inside of it. When it comes time to remove the bolt, you have to use a torch. No big deal.

[@gamecapturemoments1]

Me too!!! Ripped my 04 Z71's rim nearly in half. Last time I'll ever make that mistake.

[@spencergates3085]

Great video I enjoyed it.

[@dobalina20]

good video , big help , thanks .

[@ahoorakia]

(18 mm bolt and 74 to 85 lbs ft of torque)you need 1/2 drive socket and cheater bar,because they use thread locker on them

[@joefenech6839]

shoots kissing

[@301steady]

Hey, I was wondering how that worked out for you? I was thinking the shoes should have been clocked from front to rear, placing the thicker part of the shoes right next to the cylinder. That's what an old crow once taught me, to double the life of the shoes.

[@joefenech6839]

It did work I now have parking brake

[@chainsaw72081]

Which way did you turn the adjuster for the parking brake? Nobody seems to know this!

[@4paulseyes]

Clockwise to adjust the P brake tighter or another words, turn the nut into the housing to spread the pad out.

[@jdwithheld8915]

@@4paulseyes You're suppose to turn the star wheel, (which spins against and pushes against the housing), in the direction that backs the adjuster screw,(which has the groove that the end of brake shoe sets in), OUT to snug up the brake pad. The right side brake star wheel used right hand threads, haven't done the left side to see if it has left hand threads like others I've worked on.

[@Cargaooversized]

I’m with guy below, quit the bull and show adjustment!!!! And what’s with cinematic black lines moving up and down

[@amandaenochs3613]

just wow

[@KO-pk7df]

That is the Driver's side by the way.

[@alltype4919]

I have a 2001 Yukon XL Denali. Is the emg brake on drivers side or both sides?

[@eddiej.2354]

Both

[@vanwhalen3719]

Awesome !

[@scrambler350]

What did you use to turn the adjusters? They're a pain in the butt to get at with channelocks.

[@joefenech6839]

A big screw driver

[@scrambler350]

The best tool i found for adjusting that little star-wheel was the small pair (#426) CHANNELOCK pliers - worked like a charm. Then, adjusted a few rounds at a time, stuck the wheel back on, put one lugnut on, and spun it with my hands to see if the brake was dragging. When it was(slightly) you loosen it back the other way a coupla rounds, and call it good.

[@gtbaumgardner]

I stopped watching @ 1:40 min mark when you said it had anti-seize instead of knowing it’s thread locker! Not a hater, love do it yourselfers but...

[@c7wc]

First thing I noticed zzzz 😭

[@daniellejulien715]

You mean you took the DRIVER side rear off...

[@yourredneck]

heat the bolt holding the bracket it will come out easyer

[@jjppsanchez77]

You don't want to do that, you will damage the seals on the caliper. The best way is to use a breaker bar

[@roberttamayo8728]

Yellow is lock tight

[@terrystark2433]

LOCKTITE.... not antisieze!

[@dadigitechman]

The engineering version of a dumpster fire

[@bullstuff3938]

Basically I got bored and moved on........

[@bige3510]

You are not explaining ANYTHING I literally lost brain cells watching this

[@69145hausbhdjwahnj]

You talk way too much bro

[@virgilgray]

Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm Uhm

[@rimshot9224]

Anyway😃

[@williamsalvas4398]

To much talk.