Part 1How to wire the low voltage on a atwood hot water heater

[@jackieolson9044]

Bud, you're awesome for doing this video! Thanks so much for helping the rest of us end our frustration!

[@dmaxwell8174]

I'm really glad I could help you I know how frustrating it can be I spent weeks not getting an answer from dealers or anyone else couldn't find anyone to help so I did countless hours of research and study to make this video so again I'm glad I can help everyone out there thank you for your kind words

[@VideoByPatrick]

Much more useful info than wasting time reading irv forum posts.

[@michaelmeuser7763]

On old one what is that second wire on igniter?

[@dmaxwell8174]

Did you watch all three of my videos on the hot water heater this part 1 part 2 and part 3 what s why are you referring to there's a brown wire that controls the igniter and gas valve the narrator is a 4-wire not a 3-wire like the old hot water heater the white wire on the new heater which is a 4-wire setup the white wires 12 volts electrons of control relay for the hot water heating element so I can turn it off and turn on the propane switch at the Saint and run just propane for example like if I wanted to go camping are lost electricity I can feel he hot water Peterson the propane side of the heater what size switches at the sink in the kitchen I can turn the 12-volt switch back on and run the heating element and a propane at the same time and get about 18 gallons a minute so the manual says I generally leave the propane switch off and just run the electric heating element dearly hooked up in an RV park electricity and I have more than enough hot water to take the pretty long shower if this helps you let me know please subscribe do you have anymore questions please give me a shout stay safe and have a great day

[@michaelmeuser7763]

@@dmaxwell8174 hi. I have a g6a 6e in a 1992 coachmen. I tried to locate your part 1 and 2 but no luck. My igniter failed. One that I got to replace it has 2 red wires instead of one. One has the plug that goes in control box. There is an additional electrode that goes to the mystery wire. I checked and the igniter is working but this extra wire is a mystery. This water heater is propane only. Thanks.

[@dmaxwell8174]

Did you click on my profile and looked through my videos you should be able to find it by clicking on my profile where you subscribe should pull up all my videos if not let me know try looking up DMaxwell 817

[@dmaxwell8174]

There's different setups out there on RV hot water heaters does yours have a pilot light that stays on if so the other could be a sensor that heats up from a pilot light then it opens up your gas valve for your main burner iFit doesn't have a pilot light stays on and it matter wire for light the pilot the pilot heats up that sensor that opens up the gas to your burner

[@RockhollowCNCServices]

Awesome video. Thank you The instructions never talked about the new white wire at all

[@arianahall3833]

So what wires would connect together if going from 4 wires(orange, white,blue,green) to 3 wires (red, blue, green)

[@twatson6252]

Thank you so much. Still need to know about the blue wire it goes to the light on the switch right. i have the new double switch with the light in the middle it has a positve and a negative on the 2 terminals which side do you put the blue wire on and what do you hook to the other side ? Thanks if you can held me. i dont know if the blue wire is basically a hot or a ground.

[@dmaxwell8174]

The blue wire go see your lockout on the hot water heater as I explained in part one and part two of my video watch part one part two and part three and you understand the whole video the white wire is of one you have to run to the new switch or so I had to on my hot water heater you should be able to follow my instructions if you have the same hot water heater same model numbers unless I change something up since I posted this video

[@exhibitdeveloper]

Thanks for taking the time to go through that for us!

[@dmaxwell8174]

I'm glad I could help

[@petset77]

I'm helping a friend replace the older three wire model water heater on his RV. On the back of the original, working single switch, the wires are: 12v (black on this RV) and ground (green), plus blue and yellow. When testing the switch, yellow gets power when the switch is turned to "ON". (everything disconnected beyond the switch). On the old heater, the yellow from the switch was tied into the brown wire on the heater unit. Old wiring was blue to blue, green to green, and yellow to brown on the unit. On the schematic label on the new "10" unit" (no manual came with the unit), both the white and orange are powered by a switch at +12vdc. Is there any reason they can't be tied to the same hot lead from the existing switch, or do they have to be switched independently (and why)? ....My question is if the additional 12v wire has to be switched to power ON, along with the original Attwood switch, why not tie them together at the 12v feed from the single switch? Does one have to be on while the other off? That doesn't make sense to me, but I'm not familiar with these heaters. ....we're replacing the original unit because the 120v element went bad, and it was so corroded on that it couldn't be removed. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have.

[@dmaxwell8174]

You won't to wire it the same as the old one SO you can switch between electric and gas. My old Atwood had a OFF switch and the new one did not SO I put one on it. I HAD to put a 12 vote wire to the new one to make it work because the old one was a 3 wire heater and the new one was a 4 wire watch my video part 1. If you have the same model as mine the white wire will need 12 votes to it

[@petset77]

...there are 2 existing switches on the panel in the RV- one for 120v electric water heating, and one 12v switch with light for propane water heating. The 12v switch is what I was speaking about. 120v switch, water and propane connections are made. All we have to do is figure out if one 12v switched feed will properly power the unit for propane if both white and orange from the unit need 12v power at the same time. Again, thanks in advance for suggestions.

[@dmaxwell8174]

You will need to find a wiring Diagram and maybe call Atwood.

[@petset77]

@@dmaxwell8174 , The Dometic/Atwood website doesn't even list the model, much less offer a PDF manual as I hoped for. The schematic on the old unit is badly faded and unreadable, and the new unit shows both the white and orange wires being fed by switched 12v. If the schematic is still visible on yours, you'll be able to see what I'm talking about. The existing single low voltage switch in the RV for propane use has a hot, ground, blue, and yellow (which was tied to the brown on the old unit). The 12v hot and ground are heavier wires than blue and yellow. While not connected to the new heater unit, switching the switch to "ON" powers the yellow lead, but not the blue. Old wiring was blue to blue, green to green, and yellow from the switch to brown on the unit itself. If there is an "always on" 12v feeding the existing switch (the 120v electric heating element side is serviced by a presently working totally separate switch), and tapping into another 12v line is what you did to power the white on your new unit to add an additional switch, I wonder if both the orange and white can be tied into the same line off the single switch. 12v switched"ON" to operate the unit with propane is 12v regardless. I'm asking because I'm not familiar with these things, and my friend is not mechanically inclined at all- which is why I'm helping him before he heads south for winter. That there is a fourth wire that the schematic says is switched 12v baffles me. Can't they be supplied by the same switch?... or am I missing something?

[@dmaxwell8174]

@@petset77 my new Atwood was the same came with no diagram I did a lot of CALLING around to R V Dealers to get it wired up. I HOPE that will help you out.