RV Suburban - RV water heater walkthrough

[@buddyboy1953]

Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken

[@MRRVTECH]

You're welcome! Thank you for watching

[@lorenrickey5481]

I agree 100%! Helped me find my electrical side problem. Thanks.

[@AndreyVtec]

Even though I don't understand English, Mister showed everything perfectly!

[@litelines]

One of the best videos I have ever watched. Thank you for the great presentation.

[@MRRVTECH]

Thank you for the kind words and for watching!

[@adrianjacobo78]

Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time

[@pauls477]

Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.

[@sob3po]

Thorough review of the heater operation. Good JOB!

[@poetfederico]

@11:40 You tell us those wires are going to be wired to the coach for your switches! That's what I need to know how to do! I went from an Atwood to the suburban water heater and I need to know how to wire it to the coach for the switches. Please help!

[@domedweller1]

The best video I've seen on Suburban water heaters Mine is a six gal with no spark and had the control panel bench tested and still nothing didn;t know about resetting the thermostats and will try that and also replace the igntier thanks again

[@glennmcfeeters5507]

I very much appreciate the thorough explanation. You answered questions I had and now I’m sure I can get my unit back up and running.

[@litaapreston9605]

So awesome. You explained this so great! We are having hot water check valve issues and I am so glad I found this video.

[@nathanurick8320]

Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out

[@MRRVTECH]

Thanks for watching!

[@Gary-gc2ky]

I have a SW6DE that only gives off about 1 minute and a half of hot water before its cold using the propane only. I have a full propane tank supply and the cut of valve for winterizing the unit is closed. Any idea what I need to check next?

[@MRRVTECH]

@Gary-gc2ky bad check valve, or if it's an older 12 gallon it may be the mixing valve. Both are located behind the water heater.

[@PatronSaintSpyridon]

Great walkthrough man. I don’t feel blind any longer

[@ericslack8784]

Wow, you really know this stuff and are very articulate. Excellent! This is the first site I've subscribed to. TY

[@MRRVTECH]

Thanks for watching Eric!

[@ronaldosteen7518]

Thanks for a thorough explanation. Hope you will continue to post new videos!

[@Al-jv2xb]

Best How it works I have found on a Suburban Water Heater. Thanks!

[@MRRVTECH]

Great to hear!

[@yamarider4]

What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak

[@MRRVTECH]

Your suspicion is justified, probably a hole in the tank.

[@1983jesselee]

Really appreciate the in depth information.... Having issues with my water heater at the moment... Crossing my fingers I don't have to buy a New one...

[@SaniMan812]

Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction

[@MrDelta144]

Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.

[@pimptrizkit]

Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.

[@mattr7229]

This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.

[@SarasotaTim]

Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.

[@MRRVTECH]

Could be a few things, I wouldn't run out and buy a control board with out having a technician diagnose it first.

[@RVWeekendsRC1]

Excellent video.

[@BigHrse]

This video and your explanation are handy! Thanks Pard! 👍🤠🇺🇲

[@MRRVTECH]

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

[@KenKlassen-e7m]

My igniter engages but burner does not light. If I light stove then hw tank lights. Then works fine until it doesn’t. I have had this unit for 12 years It was new when bought and this year is the first time there has been a problem. Great video. Thank you.

[@rhvreramon]

Great video. I’m waiting to go to rv tech school and now I have a leg up.

[@MRRVTECH]

You can do it!

[@jimmieshelton-s5d]

Great video thanks for the info I’m installing a new and would like to know more about the control wires and the function

[@michaelbellino2617]

Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.

[@JamesBrown-jr3wi]

Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.

[@MRRVTECH]

That switch is the 120 volt AC switch your new water heater will come with one

[@spillsndebris]

Excellent video. I learned a great deal in a short time. Thank you.

[@timscott4211]

Good job my friend. A lot simpler than I thought.

[@efrainpelaez1246]

You are the best. Thank you !

[@trentonsaltsman3152]

How do you wire up the control board to the rv? Is there a swit c h i should buy? My old water heater was gas only the new one is electric/gas and im unsure what i need for this.

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes you will need a switch kit and wiring. There is wiring diagram on the water heater.

[@dethray1000]

anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode

[@MRRVTECH]

You're welcome

[@chaspre8525]

Does it have a dip tube or is the check valve work for a dip stick

[@mattr7229]

Thank you for this great video. When the unit is not in use for a few months... is it best to remove the water or is it better to leave the water filled? I am asking because if you empty it, there will be a small amount of residual water at the bottom of the tank, below the anode rod, not allowing it to be sacrificed and hence possibly burning a hole through the bottom of the tank? Thank you!

[@MRRVTECH]

@mattr7229 great question, for storage I would remove the anode rod and drain, leave anode out so the remaining water can evaporate.

[@Ionizap]

This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.

[@richardremis4047]

Excellent video by the way.

[@FabianCharrua]

Probably the best and most instructive video I have ever seen. Right to the point. Thank you!!

[@johnpage6278]

Very informative video. My water heater is very similar but it's the 6 gallon. Still works on AC but the gas no longer works. Goes through the 3 cycles of trying to light then it shuts down. My lp tanks are full and no air is in the gas lines. Any ideas? Thanks

[@brownwahyu]

good video... learned alot in a quick time. Straight forward.

[@timterry8714]

Mine steadily deteriorated and initially took a few fires to get going but got worse till it took several restarts and then just wouldnt start at all. The gas burner actually fired up each time but after a few seconds went out however I noticed the piezo ignitor continued to fire even after the burner lit each time. That mad eme think it was a thermocouple issue that wasnt getting to temperature fast enough after it ignited. After watching several vids on these heaters I removed, realigned and cleaned the ignitor probes which incorporate the thermocouple but while this improved the number of times it took to start the problem persisted. I noticed that the flame was a bit yellow so I cleaned the brass gas jet with about a nunber 61 nozzle file and while that didnt appear to be restricted it did restore the flame to all blue and now it fires up immediately every time for the first time in a very long time. So make sure you clean that jet out along with everything else.

[@thomasmoseley6955]

Thanks for the video. I'm checking my anode and flushing my tank tomorrow!

[@richmiddleton1704]

Excellent information. Thank you. One question is where to order parts?

[@MRRVTECH]

@richmiddleton1704 any rv dealer would have parts and I've seen some on Amazon as well

[@firemanjd2002]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm completely new to owning an RV; we just bought a 1998 model Gulf Stream Yellowstone. I got it home and found that the water heater was leaking. I know that mine is an SW6 something, but the data sticker is too faded to see the actual model. I've been trying to compare it to what I'm seeing on the new models, but I'm just not sure which to replace it with. It has the DC junction box on the right side (from the front), but no AC box on the right side. It has a power cord, but it connects to it's own little control/thermostat box, then two white wires run to what I assume is an element that screws in where you show the anode rod to go. Any answers on which model I should replace it with?

[@MRRVTECH]

@firemanjd2002 yeah so someone has added a "hotrod" kit. It's a kit that replaces the anode withan electric element completely eliminating the required benefits of the anode rod, terrible idea! It originally was a gas only and the previous owner ( or 1 of the previous owners was duped into the electric solution) while a hot rod does work it leaves the glass lined tank defenseless to the hard water deposits and ruins the tank. My suggestion would be to upgrade to a SW6DE, or replace it with an instantaneous water heater. Girard offers a direct replacement with correct dimensions for an easy swap

[@firemanjd2002]

@@MRRVTECH Thanks for that info. I went ahead and ordered a SW6DE. I just went to all of our local hardware/plumbing stores looking for replacement brass fittings for the back though, and none of them have the ones with the check valves. How important is that?

[@MRRVTECH]

@@firemanjd2002 you need at least one check valve on the rear, I would put it on the cold water inlet. You can buy a 1/2" brass check valve on Amazon.

[@dirtybones6]

Awesome video sir. Perfect tutorial.

[@robertwallace7567]

🎉Hello, Very informative! I am hoping that you can tell me how to wire the 12-volt colored wires to the coach.

[@robgreene87]

Thank you for your video, however need to replace the on / switch for electric heat .. what is the best way to do this ??

[@shawnenser2610]

Great walk through, thanks for the training.

[@MrKidQueso]

If you haven’t heard it enough, Great Video! I have a SW6DEL, and bought Anode bars and noticed that the threading (male) on the rod didn’t screw in all the way. The rods are the same size outer end to outer end, however, the replacement had a bit more, about 1/16-1/8, or two more rounds of threads more. I wish I could upload a picture. I was concerned about the end making contact with the wall of the tank. Now knowing that is glass, it worries me. The rod is about 1/8 not screwed flush. I don’t think what I replaced was screwed flush. I’ve seen some videos that show the anode rod being replaced but it’s not detailed enough. The camera pans away. Last, I have a 1973 Chinook Camper, the water heater was updated within the last year, give or take a few months. Still, I took the anode rod out, not knowing what it was and thinking it was just a way to let out the water for winterizing the camper. I was hoping to learn if there was a cut valve to prevent the RV antifreeze from getting in the water heater tank. Maybe that’s an add-on on the outside, somewhere near the in source. I know where to look now. In addition, I am glad that you showed how to remove the gas burner it seems that it’s easier to replace the heating rod/element with the burner out of the way. Many Thanks! Robin

[@PeterbuiltWorks]

Any tips on replacing the wires/leads going to and from the eco's? Im working on a suburban sw12 that all 4 leads were cut by the case.

[@kurtislane8795]

Man! Fantastic video. Thank you for producing this content. 👍👍

[@Mr69barracuda]

@MrRVTech - ABSOLUTELY A GREAT, WELL DONE video! You deserve the rewards from the advertisements. My only Q to you is "Does a BAD" 110v element show open or closed circuit ? I just pulled on with fried wires ... Thinking it shorted? Or maybe they fried from poor connection.... idk. But I am curious as to if the elements will die closed as well as open?

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes, if you do an OHMS reading it would read OL or if it's burnt but still touching the ohms would be wildly incorrect.

[@ruming404]

Very nice video. Thank you!

[@Circleautorepair]

Thank you for the great video! Is there a test to determine why the propane will light and not stay on. I have cleaned the intake tube but still have a problem Thanks!

[@robertovallecillo6406]

Great job explaining the ac side what about the dc side

[@ashleyharris3246]

My sw6de sits in a cabinet. Heard a hissing noise to open the cabinet and find moisture, mold, and some puddles water from the water heater. I assume the noise im hearing is steam escaping from under the Styrofoam thats around the tank. I think if it was leaking there would be more water. Turned off water it still makes the noise. Cut the breaker to it and the noise stopped. Would my tank be cracked at the top possibly? Why would i feel steam coming from the top of the tank around the Styrofoam?

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes your tank has a hole or crack in it, time for a new water heater.

[@mvortec350]

what do you do if you buy a suburban replacement water heater with out the electrical switch on the outside of the waterheater. do you have to buy a double switch for the inside to replace the outside switch and what color wire orange and what ?

[@waynemeeks175]

Will this be a direct replacement for wiring and from the sw-10de? Thanks for responding.

[@WallsBeeMan]

Your good. You know how to give info. Will you make a vid on the propane system ?

[@richarddafft]

I have a suburban hwh model # sw12del 2021 yr that i am having to replace the control module. im on my 4th one put the last one in on 12 25 2024 and its not worklng it will spark but not light same as the others did.Any help would be great. ps Your video is awsome

[@MRRVTECH]

@richarddafft If the ignitor is arcing and there is no ignition, I would be more suspect of a gas/gas valve issue. Have your gas pressure checked at the orifice while the control board is calling for operation. Also clean out the burner tube and orifice really good. Good luck.

[@jeffdunn6482]

Hi what is the make or model of your ignition board tester? Could you do a video on how the board tester works? Thanks great video

[@arshooter1]

electric ignition on gas water heater does not come to light gas, is it the valve or the module that could be bad? Electric side of heater works fine. Thanks

[@MRRVTECH]

Probably the board " module"

[@DmitryShevkoplyas]

So well explained! Very helpful! Thank you!!!

[@MRRVTECH]

You're welcome

[@akichler]

Great Video! I do have a question. If I put my water heater out the side of the couch will the water lines come out too so I can disconnect them or do I have to go inside and take the wall panels off to disconnect the water line.

[@MRRVTECH]

@akichler It can go either way.... if you have braided hoses....pull it out, if you have pex piping, take them off the back first.

[@akichler]

@@MRRVTECH Thank you!

[@marcrejas1634]

Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

[@tondabohannan9412]

Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.

[@russmilosavich2465]

My switch inside usually turned red when on and now doesn't. Is it common for them to go out? Doesn't ignite ar all now and I have propane.

[@richardremis4047]

How common is it for the board to go out? Can't get hot water with either electric or propane. Changed thermostat already. Thank u

[@MRRVTECH]

I would consider it fairly common.

[@EdBlack-]

Great video, very much appreciated! I was hoping you’d take out the propane combustion chamber.. (pringles can shaped metal tube) that the flame heats up. Does that come out and can it be replaced? The inside of mine is pretty heavily rusted to where penny sized rust flakes are actually hanging down, where the propane flame contacts, down the entire tube interior. Makes me wonder if it’s still structurally sound. I didn’t want to heat it up using propane, and have the metal combustion chamber expand and leak. So I’m concerned to even use propane at this point to heat it up. I had mine running only electric for about a year and I believe condensation formed on the inside of the combustion tube.. causing it to rust. Not sure.. Do you know if this is fixible? Everything else is functioning as it should with roughly 1 year of use after being brand new. It did also sit out at the land dry/empty for about 2.5yrs. Hoping I can replace that combustion chamber, but not sure if that chamber/tube contacts water directly on the inside or not as well, and or how thick it is. I’d imagine it does contact the water directly, if it’s essentially the propane heating element. Also my anode was gone as well after 1yr use, definitely should have checked on it sooner, but I don’t think that would have rusted out and compromised the combustion chamber that quickly do you?

[@EdBlack-]

Also, while the anode rod wasn’t replaced after 1yr, the rv had been stationary. So I don’t think the glass liner was damaged at all thankfully from the debris moving back and forth etc. just hoping it didn’t compromise and rust out the combustion chamber.

[@davidsimpson3215]

The three wires that come from the control board area are they just powered by a switch? I do not have a switch on my rv other than the one on the water heater how would I install those wires

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes white is electric and orange is gas ( 12 volt)

[@aliciaschaefer5145]

I need to replace my heating element and the black and white wire running to it. (power and neutral) Where does the other side of thr wires terminate?

[@MRRVTECH]

Black terminates at the left hand thermostat and ECO above it, white terminates in the j box mounted to the side of the tank

[@rogerbockhop6686]

Hi Great video !!! Any idea why our Suburban SW12DEL rv water heater does not heat the water like it used to? This is on both the gas and electric use.... dread the thought of replacing the unit... Thanks much!

[@hockeypapi11]

Do you have a video on replacing the 12 gallon unit

[@lassoatrain]

Hi thanks for the great video. I need some help with a question and would like to ask you if you could be so kind to help if you can. I bought a forest river 5th wheel and about a year ago and didn't know anything about the anode rod and it rotted thru the bottom of the tank .so I bought a replacement on eBay it's the 5243A SW10DE. I bought an open box water heater thinking I could save some money . I really don't want to return it if I don't have too. So it arrived yesterday and I gave it a good look over and I noticed on the pressure relief side of the fire box that the metal around the top of the pressure relief valve had a dent . Then I looked down between the tank and the fire box and on the back side of the fire box where the pressure relief sticks thru there appears to be a rubber gasket up against the fire box . Is that a seal or does the pressure relief actually screw into a fitting that is part of the tank and I don't need to worry about that rubber gasket? Because they tightened it and the rubber gasket is only about 1/2 under the shoulder it was meant to be in contact with .the bad news is they tightened the brown wire between the two surfaces mate instead of on the gasket . Looking at it I don't think removing the pressure relief will loosen the surface I am talking about it appears to be some type of flange that holds the fire box to the tank and the relief valve screws into it. I realize I need to get the wire out from in-between the two surfaces or maybe cut it and replace it all together but is that gasket sealing the water or just a nicety? Thank you for taking a look at my problem.

[@MRRVTECH]

The pressure relief valve screws directly into a welded fitting in the tank, the gasket you see does not retain any water it is a barrier between the combustion pan and tank. I would just cut the wire off and run a new one. Best of luck!

[@lassoatrain]

@@MRRVTECH thank you so much.

[@JennieMiller-gk5hp]

I have a old Atwood water heater and I'm trying to figure out how to wire it to the old Atwood. Is that a problem wiring it? The suburban I bought is a 6 gal. SW 6 DE and I'm hoping it can be installed properly with the Atwood switch? Just a girl and hope you can help me, thanks both water heaters are electric and gas the Atwood is the gc 6 EE 10 AA sure could use some advice? Thanks 🙏

[@billsuepke4842]

You mentioned a tester for the electronic board. How can I get more info on getting a board tester for my SW10 Suburban.

[@FeistyChick4U]

Hi. Great video. I am full-time in my rig and would like to know how to clean out the burn tube and the chamber where the flame goes, because I found a bunch of moths in there. Is there some sort of long flexible brush meant to clean out the burn tube? Also what is the name of that socket that you used to take the aluminum panel off that was connected to your drill?

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes, I have an 8" brush with nylon brush on the end. Not sure what tool you are referring to but I used a phillips bit, a 1/4" hex bit and a 3/8" hex bit to disassemble.

[@thefearlesstiger68]

Thank you for sharing. If your yank is both propane and electric. Can you just set it for electric and no gas?

[@mickrowan]

Great video. You covered everything except replacing the thermocouple! Any chance of doing that please ?

[@Twowolfs101]

Hi sir my rv takes a SW10PE and we ordered that exact part water heater but they sent us an SW10DE. Our old one only has the white, black and ground wires I guess that'd be the 120 vac junction box but we don't have anymore wires in the rv to hook up to the red, blue and green wired for that other junction box.... we've called rv service men but nobody has come out and I'm frustrated!!! Do I just leave that other junction box alone unhooked?

[@paulmayfield9709]

Changing out my water heater from manual light to a switch light. The water heater has 3 wires coming out of it I’m assuming one is ground then one would go to the switch but not sure about the 3rd. I tested the one it came out of the wires one was 13.7v the other 11.7 and the other I would say ground. I need to add a switch then I can get power from tapping another wire or run to panel.

[@richday3322]

My Suburban Hot Water tank has 110volt on the white wire going to the element and black wire is ground coming from switch and thermostat. I can't get to the junction box without removing the tank. Have you ever seen this? I believe the wiring was done at factory.

[@stevenichols9962]

I have a question. my heater works on gas then when i turn on electric, the igniter fires and turns on the propane. When I pull a wire off of the DC thermostat switch, the igniter will not fire and the electric coil heats the tank. How does it know not to use the gas when the electric is on? Is that a control board issue?

[@MRRVTECH]

It sounds like the switches are wired backward?

[@BilboSandbaggins]

Is there a way you can test the control board with a multi meter? I think that is my probably with my water heater igniter not sparking

[@MRRVTECH]

No unfortunately unless you understand and no the pin outs and have a good background in controls there isn't. However a company called FENWAL makes an excellent control board tester.

[@davidbrugger5145]

Thank you, why would my water be getting to hot? Also why would 120 connects at the outside switch and the thermostat be burnt? Great video thanks!!

[@wjsadowski3944]

Recently purchased an RV travel trailer with a Suburban water heater. No hot water on our first outing. Consulted with one of my resident RV experts and the Suburban manual. The expert and the manual both say and identify an on/off switch inside the water heater. On mine there is no on/off switch. Is this something new?

[@chrisjodrell9157]

I have a problem with my water system getting air into it and noticed my pressure relief valve on my hws hissing. So i think its sucking air over the couple of months untill our next journey. Do i need to replace the pressure relief valve?

[@MRRVTECH]

Yes

[@javacup912]

Superb video. Great how-to. Though I have the 6 gal. on my travel trailer, still helps, as the systems are similar, jusst capacity is not. Thanks.

[@michaelsweat6132]

Great video i appreciate ur videos on suberban hot water heaters. i have a sw12del and on my electric I have 120 at the black on off switch but not at the heating element what's in between the 2 that might be the problem. thank u ahead of time

[@mikeroll5377]

Exactly what I needed thank you......

[@javiertorrez4771]

I have a question about the wiring of the 120 volt relay. My water heater stopped working, and I traced the lack of 120 volt power back to the relay, but, I'm not sure it is the relay. The wiring diagram is similar to what you show in your video. The white bypasses the relay and goes straight to the heating element. The black wire goes to the relay, then down to the switch next to the element. There is also a ground wire that comes from the relay to a ground connection and then there is another wire from the relay that does not terminate to anything. Should this wire connect to anything?!?

[@MRRVTECH]

@javiertorrez4771 great observation!

[@MRRVTECH]

@javiertorrez4771 the ground wire is a 12 volt chassis ground and the other wire...typically yellow is a 12 volt+ signal wire from the control box. The 12 volt circuit engages the relay from the control allowing the hot 120v black cir uit to close.

[@javiertorrez4771]

@@MRRVTECH then my water heater does not work on electric, that wire, the yellow 12 volt + ends in wire nut and does not terminate to the controller. Could this be a wiring mistake from the previous owner?

[@javiertorrez4771]

​@@MRRVTECH is there a wiring diagram for the relay to the circuit board?

[@MRRVTECH]

@@javiertorrez4771 sounds like somebody's hands have been on it

[@conradgieblewicz8220]

I have a Suburban water heater and It ignites and I see a flame but then it shuts off completely. Im just about to get into it , I'm just wondering what might be the problem. Also.. If I need to replace any parts, Where can I purchase parts for a suburban R.V. water heater. Thanks..

[@jabbagna4237]

Thank you great walk through

[@weshawkins7165]

I’ve been out in my Travel trailer this week and heard a high pitch tone coming from the water heater when it was running on electric. The noise would stop when I would turn the water heater electric switch off and would come back on when the switch was turned back on. A few days later after coming back to the trailer after an hour walk and noticed the fan by the service panel, I assume it was the inverter cooling fan, was coming on and going off. This was every few seconds, on off on off. It stopped fluctuating on off when I turned the water switch to off and immediately started doing it when the switch was turned back on. I’m still away from home and am using the propane for the hot water heater, which that part is working just fine. In both instances the water coming out was hot. Any ideas what should look for when I get home.

[@MRRVTECH]

Good one! Sounds like a strain on the 12 volt side of the converter while the water heater is on electric, possibly a relay in the control board. I would test the amperage on the DC white wire at the water heater control board while electric is on.

[@weshawkins7165]

@@MRRVTECH I’ll give that a check when we get back home tomorrow. An amp clamp is the one tool I don’t have with me on the road. Where might this control board be located at. When running on electric is it running on DC or AC current?

[@patrickmelson4745]

How do you wire up the low voltage from the control board?

[@enriquealvarado7611]

I’m having issues with a propane only water heater model SW6D. I’m only getting about 1.89 volts to the thermostat switch. Would that be that I have a faulty negative? I checked all the fuses on the fuse box and they all reading 13volts to ground. Any hints

[@jewelerguy]

My surburban water heater has a slight gas leak from the jet. Can the valve be adjusted, or does the whole valve unit need to be replaced? Thanks

[@MRRVTECH]

@jewelerguy just replace the whole valve for safety sake

[@jewelerguy]

@@MRRVTECH Thank you so much for your quick response.

[@GeneGladden]

Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.

[@kennynvake4hve584]

My dad has this unit and it calls for heat, then cycles 3 times and cuts out...and you have to turn it off from inside the trailer. I think the electronic spark, flame sensor is bad. What do you think?

[@MRRVTECH]

Quite possible the flame sense is bad, but gas pressure also has to be eliminated as an issue as well as a clean burner tube and combustion chamber.

[@aero70charlie]

On some of the 120V schematics, I see a relay. What is that for and where is it located? Thank you