PART 23 - Oil Lines - How to Build a CB Performance 2017cc Builder’s Choice VW Engine

I promise we'll get to firing this thing up soon, but before I can do that I needed to sort out the full flow oil system. In this clip I'm mainly looking at the oil pump cover and the clearance around the moustache bar. This proved to be a tricky and time consuming thing to get right.

[@laurencegibbs3640]

Do hope everything is ok . Been watching these over a week and finally got to this one and realise there are no more . Enjoyed the content so much .

[@prkid424]

Really looking forward the rest of these videos. You have done an amazing job so far. Can’t wait for first start up. When is the next video?

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

You still alive? You are my inspiration for completing my 2387 cb kit and you’re not motivating me currently 😁

[@davidkline4372]

So far, on my build, getting the oil lines and fittings sorted out has been an expensive faff. I found a pump cover without the oil relief valve and flush to the side by Jaycee. But the fitting is orb so I had to buy another fitting. I chose a 90° low rise banjo bolt from a company called Radium Engineering outside of Portland Oregon. Nice. Finding a slick banjo bolt like yours for the case was like a search for a needle in a haystack with that npt interface... Jeesh.

[@onehappykombi]

Subscribed and binge watching all your videos

[@davidkline4372]

Second that! I re watch these over and over. My favorite engine build series only partly because I'm building the same kit! But mostly because he's doing such a good job explaining what's going on and recommending what to do. I hope things are going well for him since it's been so long since he updated his progress.

[@bert79]

Great work, I do have 3 suggestions. First, I would move the Thermo switch to the oil-out side of the cooler as you need to monitor the temp of the oil getting to the engine not leaving it. If your oil is run too cool it will not evaporate blow-by contaminants. Second, I would use the Thermo switch to trigger a relay to power the fan. Not sure how happy the Thermo switch will be to continually run 80 watts of juice. Third, you will need to attach the hoses to the AN-8 fitting prior to tightening them onto the cooler, the same applies to the 45-degree fitting you put on the brass pump outlet. Love what you did with the Berg cover, great modification to clearance for flow. Lover your videos, very informative and complete.

[@aircooledanything2415]

These are all great suggestions. Funny you should mention the AN fittings as I figured that out today 😂. Good idea about the relay, although they didn’t mention that in the blurb that came with the fan and they really should have done. I’ll do that for sure. The switch doesn’t look robust. Swapping to outlet is a genius idea - switching off the fan before the oil gets too cold. All great stuff. Thanks. 👍

[@aircooledanything2415]

I've been mulling over the placement of the thermostatic switch on the external cooler - inlet vs outlet. With the thermostatic switch on inlet the oil is being cooled / regulated at 180 degrees (82C). So that's the temp of the oil after it's left the bearings, the stock cooler and fallen down into the sump. From what I understand this is an optimum temp (anywhere between 180-220F or 80-100C). So, the oil is at 82 when it arrives at the cooler when the fan is activated. The oil is obviously going to be a bit cooler as it leaves and is then pumped around the bearings etc. It then slowly builds up in temp again until it's hot enough to activate the fan and is again cooled. You's imagine it stays around the 180F mark. If the switch is on outlet of the cooler. The fan is obviously only engaged when the oil leaving the cooler is at 180 degrees or above. Which makes me wonder how hot it is going to be before it enters the cooler. I imagine the cooler is quite efficient at cooling the oil without the fan. So the big question is how hot is the oil in the sump at the point the fan is switched on in this configuration. I doubt it would be as high as 220F, especially when the vehicle is stationary, but with a good amount of airflow (from driving) moving over the cooler it might just be that high. In which case the oil is going to cycle at a temp higher than 180F. Anyway, it rarely gets hot enough here in the UK for me to be overly concerned either way, and I think both configurations would be fine. They both have their merits and drawbacks.

[@davidkline4372]

I can't wait to see this in your bus! Hope you're doing well. It's been so long since you've posted!

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Are you going to do a part 24 video? hopefully you're doing well.

[@jamesaschebrock1186]

Everything ok? Haven’t heard from you in awhile

[@charliemessenger6537]

On the fan thermostat switch, it may tend to cycle the fan more with it on the entering side of the cooler. On the leaving side it may be a little more stable temp back to the engine. I think it's probably splitting hairs though. Once the engine is up to temp it should stay pretty stable. Only heavy loads like hill climbing would really put anymore load (heat) on the motor. I'm guessing that's not a real issue in the UK. The thermostatic valve is where the real difference will come. Good choice there. Interesting the GB pump cover wasn't relieved as you modified it. That's a really restricted, tight 90 degree bend the oil has to make right off the pump discharge. That's the reason there's full flow 90's. That was a good call cutting that notch in. Great episode as always.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Thanks Charlie. Someone else has made the same suggestion about the thermostatic fan switch being on the outlet - which is a better way of doing it I agree. To be fair to the GB cover I think it has been designed to create a pressure point to activate the pressure release valve. By adding that radius I might have messed with that, but in my defence, I’d there had been a suitable cover without the pressure release valve I would have gone with that. Not sure they are such a good idea. Especially as I’m not going to be going much over 4.5k revs.

[@charliemessenger6537]

@@aircooledanything2415 You still out there, mate? It's been a while since we've had an update. Hope all is well.

[@nevasgarage7885]

Nice Job!

[@aircooledanything2415]

Thanks.

[@mattlampert24]

Ezgz thinks the dimple could be to trap a little oil to lubricate the face of the pump gears against the pump housing and pump cover plate. He suggested the loose gear should be mounted with the dimple inside against the pump body, as the gear that messes with the cam always faces outwards towards the pump cover. Personally I’ve always had both dimples out wards towards the pump cover plate. They dimples don’t appear to index the gear teeth in anyway.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Thanks for this. Very interesting. I haven’t seen that EZ clip. He really is the master. Makes sense what he’s saying. Like you I always have the dimples facing the cover. I randomly put them together.

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

If I had to guess the dots should probably match up so if you take it apart ever you can reinstall they gears back in their same position that they’ve broken in

[@geraldguess203]

Did you ever start the engine? Enjoyed the “series” but where’s “The End”?

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

Everything ok? You’re MIA

[@mikehammer4546]

Checking with you and your build, how’s it going ?

[@mattlampert24]

Another great video by the way. How long ago was this filmed

[@aircooledanything2415]

It was filmed a while back. I'm a bit behind on my editing. Hahahahahaha

[@onehappykombi]

I did not have any of those issues with my stock moustache bar 🤔

[@calit2a228]

Hey man I have two questions what spark plugs do you use for this Setup ? And how long are your pushrods ? Cheers

[@patrickmclaughlin6013]

Did the bus ever get started? Survive the cam break in? Peace!

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

Did you have dual springs on your heads I don’t remember and if so are you gonna break in the cam with both installed?

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

If you had problem’s please share what went wrong

[@vw714]

Make sure the hole on the CB pump is lined up w/the hole on the GB cover! In my experience they didn't match up! PACK that oil pump w/ vasaline..

[@aircooledanything2415]

Yes absolutely correct. Check out 1min 14s.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

It would be great if Gene Berg had a better website to order parts from. They are missing out on a lot of revenue, by keeping it old school.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Agree 100%. It's crazy. Maybe they're happy with their turnover and don't want to expand.

[@Fahrfrumlosin]

What’s up it didn’t blow up I hope

[@reylatinodetochomorocho2574]

Ey I want see working

[@cgip1220]

What happened to you?

[@jamesaschebrock1186]

CaliT2a you do know you can’t just cut your push rods the same length as someone else