Part 5: Project Blue-J. Jeep Frame Restoration with KBS Rust Seal and Chassis Assembly

[@skipwaelty3974]

What a great looking frame. I'm from New England, there hasn't been a frame that clean since 1995

[@UCanDoIt2Mike]

Looks fantastic Bob! This is all on my ToDo list as soon as I can get my Tub work complete. Cheers and keep plugging away at it! Thumbs Up!

[@scottwilson707]

Nice job can’t wait to see it finished

[@Cpennington57]

Excellent job!! I’ll be tearing my YJ apart over the next year for an LS and one ton swap. Currently has a 5.5” coil conversion which I’ll likely retain. Can’t wait to see you get yours all put together and put into action. Keep up the quality videos bro!

[@nathanhughes9996]

Great video mate, very informative!

[@julio123755]

Nice job!

[@tedhargiss1056]

Very nice! I essentially did the same thing, just took a different path. I had some surface rust, so I had it blasted. Then, I used POR 15 for protection. Although, I wish I would have mounted the new motor mounts first. I had not decided which mounts I was going to use at that point.

[@BobWilson84]

Ted Hargiss, but atleast POR 15 or KBS is reasonably easy to touch up after you make the welds. Did you decide on the Novak mounts?

[@tedhargiss1056]

​@@BobWilson84: I did go with the Novak mounts. But, I rattle-canned them. This is my first build of any kind, so I'm learning that I should have done a lot of things in a different order.

[@maxstarnes4779]

I know this is off topic for this video, but does anyone know if you can use a yj radiator in a cj grill? Does it fit into the slot or would i need to fasion a braket for the radiator or is that even possible

[@v7nf]

nice job,I was gonna do that but im gonna powder coated frame,I did use kbs under tub and inside,im coating monster line over the KBS.

[@Troche571]

Love the work, let me know if I can ship out my jeep for some work... lol

[@jimmyghersi]

Great job

[@masonmashburn4655]

Could you give me an idea of what a jeep like that is worth these days? Also any idea on who owns it now& how to get in touch with them?

[@BobWilson84]

Hi, I’m gonna guess between 40-50k if not a little more given the current economy and desire for restomod 4x4. Can’t give out the current owners info, sorry.

[@oo0Spyder0oo]

Did you apply the topcoat straight over the rust seal or sand it all before doing so? I was wondering if you could just use the rust seal as the only coat?

[@BobWilson84]

Rust seal isn’t UV stable, i needs to be top coated. If you paint over the rust seal within 25 hours or so you don’t need to sand, over 24 hours and you can to scuff it. Just follow the directions and it’ll go well!

[@oo0Spyder0oo]

@@BobWilson84 nice one, thank you.

[@jordanpaden9352]

Oh the good ole days when paint strippers were still good.

[@BobWilson84]

I know!!! All the new non-methyl stuff doesn’t even compare.

[@sesnc2145]

First time here. Subscribed. Nice job on frame. Wondering if you have a source for the plans to build the overhead lift?

[@partiexplorer]

Hi BobWilson84, your build is the perfect reference for what I am starting to do. I am exactly at this step, restoring and painting my frame. I am rebuilding a Land Rover Defender 110 and it's my first build. I already buy the 3 step POR 15 kit. I leave in Canada and we are in the winter so I have to do everything in my small garage. To help me, I will like to build the same kind of Jack you did to turn my frame during my painting. Do you have any reference or advice so I can build one. Thanks.

[@BobWilson84]

Hi, the only advice I have is consider the crane from Harbor Freight.... if available up North. The wood crane I build has been very handy and I should have built it long ago. There’s a lot of reference material online, but it really comes down to using effective construction methods. Proper fasteners, accurate cuts, high-quality wood, etc. even with the best planning the legs will warp, so keep that in mind as well. Good luck on your project!!!

[@partiexplorer]

BobWilson84 thank a lot! I will follow your advice. Have a nice day.

[@masonmashburn4655]

The build was very impressive. What’s ur background? I’m guessing engineering

[@BobWilson84]

Thanks, I’m a music school drop out with a knack for working in my garage :)

[@95ZR580]

Did you make that gantry crane?

[@BobWilson84]

Hey. Yep, and I even have a handy video about it !

[@adammiles881]

How has the frame paint aged?

[@BobWilson84]

Wish I could say, new owner bought it off me when I finished and barely drives it. Would love to get it back one day.

[@jimhoran5445]

Looking good!

[@Jeepdriver75]

Is that Blacktop supposed to be the satin or gloss finish, also did you coat the inside of the frame with anything?

[@BobWilson84]

Nothing on the inside, although I considered fluidfilm. It’s a satin finish on the blacktop however it was very dependent on the brush. Also, I would highly suggest spraying to make the coverage more even.

[@Jeepdriver75]

@@BobWilson84 I would recommend Eastwood internal frame coating, or KBS makes a nice cavity wax also. These frames typically rust from the inside out.

[@BobWilson84]

@@Jeepdriver75 Lots of options out there, also woolwax. Thankfully this jeep is now living in a dry and warm climate.

[@MegaTapdog]

If you are going to do this, seal the frame in plastic for a day right after applying the aircraft stripper and the paint will slide right off. Nice job.

[@BobWilson84]

Can’t even buy the good stuff anymore, might need to use that plastic tip in the future!

[@ChuckNorris-lf8nt]

surprised you did not put down a drop cloth over the concrete before painting. Would of made clean up a little easier.

[@ryanrychliski6464]

Is this the satin black kbs product? Does the blacktop change the finish at all? I’m planning on doing satin black without the blacktop

[@BobWilson84]

The rust block I used gloss I think... then covered in satin blacktop? I do know one thing.... use the blacktop! It’s very little $$$ and makes everything UV resistant. Nothing worse than chalky POR15 or KBS

[@jasonjenkins4255]

what dirrection are the arrows on top of the springs pointing. I'm installing this same suspension on my 94 yj.

[@BobWilson84]

I assumed that they point forward.... boy I hope that was a correct assumption. My leafs came with no literature, now I’m second guessing myself. Maybe we should contact OME?

[@jasonjenkins4255]

@@BobWilson84 Mine came from quadratec with no instructions either. long story short quadratecd had no info or mounting instructions either. emaild ARB the manufacturer and they referred me to their west coast office, who said springs with + marks go on heaviest side with arrows pointing to center of vehicle.

[@BobWilson84]

jason jenkins, I need to take them apart tonight to verify: the frame side takes a 9/16” bolt and the shackle side takes a 1/2” bolt. The OME bushings are two different OD s and I believe this was the only way I could install them. More to come.

[@BobWilson84]

OK, I just talked to a very knowledgeable national OME rep. Here's the golden rule for YJS! CS014F springs in the front: INSTALL WITH THE LARGER EYE TOWARDS THE FRAME. The arrow for the CS014F leafs will probably face forward, and that's OK. For the Rear springs: CS037R in my rears are to be installed in the same fashion - LARGE EYE TOWARDS THE FRAME. There are some odd considerations for guys who run the CS037Rs front and back, I won't elaborate because that is not my application. The phone number for their customer support is: 866-293-9078 I hope this helps!!!

[@robertbrandywine]

What do you think of spraying Fluid Film on the inside of the frame to slow down future rusting there? Also, I am pretty picky but even I wouldn't be bothered by a few paint runs on the frame.

[@jon-xq2lc]

they sell a paint that has long tube in spray can for inside frames, sprays 360 degree with 4 nozzle just feed the tube threw hole in the frame and pull as you spray, buy 3 cans. it will drip out,

[@larryalexander4833]

@@jon-xq2lc another channel Mustie 1. Uses a mix of chain saw bar oil and thins it . It seems to really help stop and prevent the rust in the rust belt areas.

[@trevorthomas6043]

Do you have a reason for not using por15

[@BobWilson84]

They are both identical and the KBS products saved me about $150 or so. I’ve used POR and KBS. Both are excellent at what they do. I think most guys have bad luck when they expect more.

[@masonmashburn4655]

Do you still have the jeep? If yes Are you ready to sell?

[@BobWilson84]

Nope, sold it a while back. Thanks for askin tho!

[@jlongino10]

Which old man emu lift did you go with?

[@BobWilson84]

Hi Justin, this is the OME 2.5” springs and shocks. The shackles are not OME because I didn’t want the additional 5/8” lift they provide. Let me know if you have any questions

[@jlongino10]

@@BobWilson84 what shakles did you go with. I noticed the zero fitting.

[@BobWilson84]

Justin Longino. They are Currie shackles, and I used the OME bushings. I think the width of the Currie kit was a little too wide for OME springs so I cut the spacers down like 1/8th or so... hindsight 20/20 I woulda purchased from Crabtree Tool.

[@jlongino10]

@@BobWilson84 buy the right size spacer instead of cut one?

[@BobWilson84]

​@@jlongino10 I was picky about using OME bushings in a Currie bracket.

[@maxstarnes4779]

Over the long weekend i am going to work on putting a cj grill and hood on my yj. Your vid on the subject really helps. When is the next vid coming?

[@BobWilson84]

Hey Max, I’m glad to hear the front clip video helped. Heads up: the clearance needed for the power steering pump and lines is tricky. I think using a 1” or 1.5” body lift would make the swap much easier. Next video in a week or so as I wrap up the Tub and body work. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.

[@MatHelm]

Corroseal