part 7 - How to make a simple Rubanoide - What i already tried

[@carlywonglandlordblk1346]

Should I put 3 magnets repelling each other on right, then reverse direction and 3 repell each other on left?

[@carlywonglandlordblk1346]

Hi Joppe, I m a newbie, just don't know how to arrange magnets on each side?

[@joppepeelen]

i have video about magnet motors, it includes the rubanoide as well !

[@prototype9000]

i eant to see one 6 feet tall

[@fullranger3435]

I don't know how thin the honeycomb Nomex can be, but I think you shoult consider it for making the central "former" piece, carrying the coils. Its stiffness makes it good for making flat long coil/formers, as well as good for narrow magnetic gaps. Think about glueing two (in series) printed/etched coils on both sides of the nomex. This would keep the coils safely close to the magnet poles, where the field is stronger.

[@joppepeelen]

thinnest i found was 1mm, but it is hard to make a good sandwich. also having both coils facing the magnets might result in shorts if it ever rubs :( its no fun making this sandwich :) i recon the carbon would work better, when heavily drilled it can be even lighter then glue some strips on places that need reenforcement like it did with the last pieces. or make sure this strips are just out of the gap(keeping in acoutn wanted xmax). making the thing much more stiffer while maintaining the benefit of a voice coil former only 0.4mm thick. anyhow both allot of fiddling. cant imagine its easy to do right repeatable :(

[@fullranger3435]

@@joppepeelen I see, I thought the coils were already attached to a thin plastic film, so they would be, at list partially, protected from shortings during rubbing. I didn't say it would be easy, great things to achieve need a lot of work and excellent planning. Are you sure carbon sheets would stay flatter than honeycomb Nomex? The latter has a theoretical advantage as being a 3D structure.

[@qx3V45p]

I've been looking for an HPL here in the states for a month now. Most places I call haven't even heard of the stuff. From years ago I remember 'double tempered masonite' which is smooth on both sides or 'HDF''. Both these having big trouble locating. Go figure... Had to settle for single sided tempered Masonite-smooth on one side only. You have any idea or different names HPL may be called so I can search the web?

[@qx3V45p]

Think I found some S2S Tempered Hardboard locally. Seems should be OK...

[@joppepeelen]

where are you from since TRESPA i sold worldwide. and it might be the most known manufacturer. oltherbrands are ARPA and ABBIT and allot of chinese shit. stay away from the chinese stuff or you might need to buy a new circular saw after a few cuts. here some more brand names Trade names include Formica, Arborite, Micarta, Consoweld, Alpikord and Duropal. you need he thick stuff not the 0.8 mm stuf used for decorative stuff. but the stuff used for tables in trains, offices,schools and often uses in showers for campings schools etc since it is very durable stiff and solid.

[@mcaddc]

Have you tried fine sandpaper? Like 2000 & above grit?

[@joppepeelen]

sandpaper ? why ?

[@mcaddc]

@@joppepeelen it's fairly light, strong, may produce good harmonics?

[@joppepeelen]

hmm never thought of using it. but yeah thats one of those things you can try ofcourse, you never know :) but i did not. i guess there are many papers i did not try to be honest.. there are so many :)

[@НиколайПридворов]

Доброго времени суток! Все хорошо но по-моему это тупиковая ветвь развития динамических головок , трудно будет достичь хорошего кпд и побороть искажения. Аккуратней с химией ваши золотые руки нам ещё нужны:)

[@joppepeelen]

that means ?

[@joppepeelen]

ok i used translate :) but thank you !!. well it might be nice to play with but indeed i think it is pulling on a dead horse if you want to keep it affordable :)

[@jeffveron8783]

I thought my ADHD was bad