Part 8 - Opel CIH Engine Cam & Engine Timing, Valve Adjustment & Installing Fly Wheel install

Final video on building a CIH motor long block. Some final checks and valve adjustment for both Solid and Hydraulic lifters.
Note the 10 Bolt head cam button is now available again :
opelgtsource.com/search/3527/...
0:00 Intro
0:26 Front Cam Cover
4:28 Installing the Flywheel
7:45 Confirming Timing Alignment Marks for Cam and Crank
10:40 How to correct if you have the cam off a tooth and need to realign the cam on an assembled motor
11:45 Adjusting the Valves and Valve Lifters on an Opel CIH Motor.
If you need to replace the rock arm studs.. it is not fun. Video to come.
Short version ( WHEN it works.. ) is you need two nuts. BUT as you know the rocker stud nuts are tapered and not a great option.
So you need to find a M10x1.0 jam nut amzn.to/3zHXPri / or regular one amzn.to/3F6JQfX. Best if you can find a hardened one. ( Depending on your tie rod or Ball Joint, I have found many of them use a M10x1.0 Castle nut and that works). Then double nut the stud and pull it out by the bottom nut, installation is the reverse.
If the thread isnt too far gone you can get a M10x1 die and rerun the thread to clean them up. amzn.to/3thvN4K
NOTE: One thing I forgot to mention.. On the flywheel of the earlier motors there is ONE of the flywheel bolts marked with a "P". Note which hole it comes from. I believe it is the 1 O'Clock position when the flywheel is located properly. It needs to go back into the same spot. The "P" bolt has a minimally larger shaft and the hole it goes into is fractionally smaller to make for a tight fit.
While not "CRITICAL" that its in the right spot ( your motor will be fine.. ). If you do not mark the front pulley for TDC ( Opel did NOT.. with exception of the 2.4L EFI Pulley ) and are using the rear pointer to time your motor by TDC. The pointer could be off by upwards of 7 degrees in either direction.
Later models either did away with using the pointer and used the front pulley or in the case of the 2.4L the timing was fixed by the crank pulley sensor. I will be showing a few tricks on the timing and distributors when I do the next video.
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For more info on availability of custom motors, and Getrag 240 5 speeds.
Best sources for C.I.H. Parts :
Opel GT Source - www.opelgtsource.com/search?c... - 1-800-673-5487
Opels Unlimited - / opels-unlimited-105620... - 1-909-355-6735
Edelschmiede - www.edelschmiede.com/ ( Best option for those in Europe )
Background music courtesy of : The Clear - spoti.fi/3lMX34K

[@GoinManta]

NOTE: One thing I forgot to mention.. On the flywheel of the earlier motors there is ONE of the flywheel bolts marked with a "P". Note which hole it comes from. I believe it is the 1 O'Clock position when the flywheel is located properly. It needs to go back into the same spot. The "P" bolt has a minimally larger shaft and the hole it goes into is fractionally smaller to make for a tight fit. While not "CRITICAL" that its in the right spot ( your motor will be fine.. ). If you do not mark the front pulley for TDC ( Opel did NOT.. with exception of the 2.4L EFI Pulley ) and are using the rear pointer to time your motor by TDC. The pointer could be off by upwards of 7 degrees in either direction. Later models either did away with using the pointer and used the front pulley or in the case of the 2.4L the timing was fixed by the crank pulley sensor. I will be showing a few tricks on the timing and distributors when I do the next video.

[@ukaypete]

You can replace all the bolts with P type bolts...they are stronger, so useful if you have a higher powered modified engine For 200bhp and higher bhp engines, recommend the flywheel is also dowelled to the crank (there are 2 spare holes in the end of the cranks to do this...)Also remember Frontera 2.4 cranks have a different flywheel bolt thread to other engines...

[@davidedmunds3409]

Thank you bro, I've got a mk1 cavalier with a 2.2 carlton engine and was a little apprehensive r.e. valve adjustment. This vid explained it in a way i can comprehend, cudos to you my friend 😎

[@yoblob34]

The set screw cover is a good idea

[@marianoschoefer5941]

Thank you sooo much for your channel. I build my engine this weekend, it was so good to have everything explained!!!

[@SrDonCosmo]

You really save me a lot of time and give me a lot of know how, great video

[@uk82punkz]

one part i miss here is the oil return at back of the engine head. here in sweden we always put a pipe in the hole and let it stick up about 1 cm. this prevent all the oil to return to the sump and leave some oil to stay in the head until next start.

[@GoinManta]

Yep a good idea.. the 2.4L has that already. I did forget to mention it in the video.

[@kerrybracken2903]

Thanks man, have a 2.0 carb manta so your video are invaluable, thank you

[@GoinManta]

Glad it helped

[@joefischer8321]

Wonderfull playlist you got there. Better then anything available in german. Just did a whole rebuild just following your Steps. Are you going to make a Video on how to install and adjust the distributor? Wonderfull work man👍

[@GoinManta]

Thanks so much. I am working on a video on building the Efi, then a video on distributor timing and the breakin of the motor. Gonna be a busy month of recording.

[@GoinManta]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5zSZ2uAmtKJbNU

[@koszegipeter2239]

Just a question. When you adjust the hydraulic lifters, are they empty (compressible) or have you filled them with oil beforehand?

[@GoinManta]

Doesn't matter for the most part, remember the factory doesn't do this. That said they will pump up faster and settle down faster if you do. Just be careful when getting to zero lash. As its easier to go over zero lash when they are pumped up, and can cause you to be slightly over tightened. Better to be slightly under tightened during breakin than over. You can always do a running adjustment after the break in to find tune them.

[@joaodiasgil]

Hello again and thank you for the helpful vídeos! Do you think the solid lifters give a performance advantage over the hydraulic ones?

[@GoinManta]

IMHO only at high RPM and with a cam made for them. Stock 1.9L solid lifter cam vs hydraulic there is no difference cam is the same. But if you want drastically more lift than stock you have to go solid lifters an custom cam. The solid lifters allow for a bigger cam but the lifters are themselves not the reason for the performance difference.

[@yoblob34]

The 10 bolt heads and the twelve bolt both use the fiber bolt the cover might be different to make up for the thicker cam cover seat. What should be the gap on the end play book says .004-.04

[@GoinManta]

The 10 bolt and 12 bolt plastic bolt is different. But yea a thicker gasket or modifying the cover works. I was even thinking about a CAM sensor to replace the whole assembly

[@boerharms2209]

are you also going to show how to reinstall and time the distributor? would be helpful

[@GoinManta]

I think I have video alreay for that. Let me see if I can put together a quick video.

[@GoinManta]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5zSZ2uAmtKJbNU

[@mk1dr770]

Great content. I have problems with rocker arm studs threads. Is there a way to safely remove them? I had to remove from one head install to the other one. Help wanted 😔

[@GoinManta]

If you need to replace the rock arm studs.. its not fun. ( Thanks for the video idea though ). Short version ( WHEN it works.. ) is two nuts. BUT as you know the rocker stud nuts are tapered and not a great option. BUT There is another option. You need to find a M10x1.0 jam nut amzn.to/3zHXPri / or regular one amzn.to/3F6JQfX. Best if you can find a hardened one. ( Depending on your tie rod or Ball Joint, I have found many of them use a M10x1.0 Castle nut. Then double nut the stud and pull it out by the bottom nut, installation is the reverse. If the thread isnt too far gone you can get a M10x1 die and rerun the thread to clean them up. amzn.to/3thvN4K

[@mk1dr770]

@@GoinManta thanks a lot. I already purchased the m10*1 nuts. Some of the threads are gone far so i also need to buy the die for m10*1. I didn't know they are tapered i saw a picture but now i understood why. The tappered part also seals tje holes for oil. May be i heat up the bottom. I am rebulding a cih engine from your videos, i even never saw one cih in working condition 😂

[@GoinManta]

@@mk1dr770 You can get used rocker studs, and edelshiemde made have the new. Pulling them out is a PIA, and resetting them so they don't pull out when you adjust the vales is an equal PIA. Good luck. The THREADS are not tapered BTW, is the FACTORY nuts are.. its to keep them from loosening after adjustment. STANDARD nuts on the rocker will not work.

[@mk1dr770]

@@GoinManta if i can pull them out i will get the nuts with locking set screes on them. I can weld a nut on the damaged ones and take out but i am worried about taking out the good ones from other head.

[@mk1dr770]

@@GoinManta i managed to pull the bad studs and replace with the good ones fromnthe spare head. Thanks a lot

[@commodore9986]

Record 2.0

[@GoinManta]

Yes.. this would be correct for a Rekord with a 2.0 CIH motor as well.

[@johantisell7510]

Why don't you just cut off the "plastic button" a little bit? I have a 69 GT which is bored to 2 litre and in good mood!

[@GoinManta]

You can do that. But it leaves quite a small stub. Like about 3-4mm tall is left of the end to Screw it in. Also I find the end then doesnt hold up as well. But that does work, if you only have the plastic bolt.

[@johantisell7510]

@@GoinManta Thanks! It is about 4 years since I rebuilt the engine but I recall that the gap between plastic button and sheet shall be 1 mm. Also I can mention that the engine i GT is taken out downwards. But my garage ceiling is quite low and I have taken it out upwards. Three times!. You have to strip flywheel and water pump and then there is about 10-15 mm space left. Also, my present timing case has markings that align with marking on pulley, so you can set ignition in the front. The absolute first 1900 (1966) had a different block and the starter was screwed to the fly wheel case instead. Thanks for great videos

[@GoinManta]

@@johantisell7510 yep there about. Not super critical more a longevity issue. It is of course very critical for high HP and racing motors.

[@GoinManta]

NEW 10 bolt cam buttons are available now ( Wouldnt you know it.. after I did the video.. ) opelgtsource.com/search/3527/details