Part Two Of Overheating FJ40 Struggle, Throw Money At It, Bolt On Shiny Bits.

[@jamespresnell1421]

Don't give up on her! I struggle the same with my '72 40... 3 steps forward... two steps back! LOL Your channel has bee super helpful for my build process!

[@projectwrongway9127]

Won’t give up, just keep working at it.

[@boxmat182ify]

Mate you've done an incredible job. Your literally a self taught mechanic. Don't get down about missing the Solid Axle Summit. You tried ya best and you did something that probably 98% of the world's population couldn't do and restored a car to a pretty good level. There is still gonna be setbacks. I'm also self taught and make tons of stupid mistakes. Once you have ironed out all the gremlins and you start doing a few trips without incident you will be super happy with it and it all becomes worthwhile. All the fuck ups I made make the end result better knowing I did it myself and learnt along the way and now I own a car I pretty much restored from the ground up and know it inside and out. Your a legend, keep up the good work! And come holiday in Australia one day and I'll take you on a tour!

[@projectwrongway9127]

I’m coming to Australia. Some day. Too many good people and internet friends that I need to meet. Appreciate the kind word man.

[@mattblack6268]

I've watched this from the start mate. She's lookin awesome. You gotta expect a few teething problems mate, it's all part of the fun .

[@projectwrongway9127]

Getting set for a trail run… should be a good test.

[@McHumaty]

I started watching your videos and dreaming about my Toyota. Finally I got mine. LOL

[@projectwrongway9127]

Details man?! What’s the build, year and plan?!

[@McHumaty]

@@projectwrongway9127 1987, in Brazil, truck diesel engine.... plan?! Be happy! HAHAHA

[@projectwrongway9127]

Sounds like the perfect plan. Sao Paulo?

[@McHumaty]

@@projectwrongway9127 Minas Gerais. I still don't have her instagram, but when I do, I'll pass it on to you.

[@projectwrongway9127]

Please do, you have mine?

[@scotttiner4981]

Great job massaging the black hoses Ben.

[@projectwrongway9127]

Years of practice…

[@ZoroWaldo]

Just had quick look at your video , Cooling system overheat can be a challenging issue on a vehicle when the age & condition of everything is unknown . If i am doing cooling system work i will back flush engine ( cold & thermostat removed , housing / outlet refitted , radiator and heater core not connected , so engine only ), on its own using compressed air and garden hose water and flushing tool , flush running water and compressed air top down and then from bottom up through engine out top , use hoses to direct discharging spraying water away from engine bay . using compressed air and running water causes major turbulence inside engine block cooling jackets and cylinder head coolant passages and flushes out rust , sediments and casting sands that have settled inside , also bits of that silicone shit sealant that everyone uses , that shit causes more problems than i can describe. if your going to use silicone rtv to dress a gasket or such , it needs to be so little you can hardly see it . it comes off inside and blocks passeges and gets in water pump mechanical seals causing failure ,it also blocks the radiator tubes . if inside of engine with oil it blocks the oil pick up screens etc, its evil shit that causes untold problems if applied heavy like everyone thinks they need to do . I will back flush radiator on its own at low air pressure as can be damaged by high air pressures , bottom up then top down , do same with heater core low air pressure flush both directions . when satisfied all is clean , drain water from block at tap / cock . and radiator drain cock , refit hoses, thermostat etc & tighten cocks before adding new coolant . You have replaced radiator assy & thermostat , great . when refilling i remove heater hose at the valve on firewall to allow air to escape engine and heater , ensure heater valve is open . i always keep track of amount of coolant ive added . when coolant comes out heater hose refit and keep filling slowly , squeezing hoses as you go . raising front of vehicle can assist in air removal , ( i rarely bother ) i run to operating temp ( with heater valve open still ) and for a while with no cap installed , be prepared to hose off any coolant that the fan will spray around and always use caution for hot coolant from radiator filler , & add some coolant to recovery tank that i already cleaned out earlier . keep heater valve open position . i run engine until thermostat opens and the fan locks up from sensing high radiator temperature , bring and hold revs up constant using the throttle linkage on carburetor and you will see , hear and feel when the fan begins to and locks up , i will maintain revs until fan disengages , then when satified air is out of system i refit cap and shut down allow to cool completly and check expansion tank and top up , check radiator coolant level also . One thing to consider is water pump condition , condition of its impeller , could be corroded away and not move coolant around properly , some badly neglected cases impellers could be gone due to corrosion. Pumps mechanical seal could be weeping or leaking check for external coolant residue and pumps bearings condition . if i was replacing a radiator assy , id be replacing water pump with genuine toyota , if not supported by toyota anymore a Aisin Aftermarket brand water pump which is toyota supplier or a good quality aftermarket japanese made unit . another key component that can cause engine overheat is the viscous fan coupling or fan clutch , internally they wear , this means that they engage later than they should , so engine can be at higher temperature before it begins to start to lock up and fan pull air through radiator and begin to cool the engine ( if it actually does at all due to worn condition ) , it could also have worn seal and lost silcone fluid from inside which will cause weak or no lock up and engine high temp or overheat and also internal bearings worn , once again install genuine toyota or aisin aftermaket coupling . if i install a new water pump i always install new fan clutch to ensure worn fan clutch that could be out of balance wont cause premature failure of new water pump bearings . also consider the age of plastic fan , plastic fans can fail usually where they are riveted to the metal boss , plastic cracks there , when fan clutch is locked up and engine revs are up the fan is doing some serious rpms , a exploding plastic fan could destroy your radiator and punch through bonnet etc . once again a genuine fan or aisin aftermarket fan . use quality coolants to suit the climatic conditions of your location & distilled or deionised water . i have always used genuine toyota juice. always consider the condition of hoses for deteriated , consider all metal joining pipes and tubes , tap / valves , thermostat housings and water outlets , oil cooler housings , ( aluminum timing covers if coolant is in them ), core or welch plugs and heater cores for corrosion , a pin hole in any and its coolant loss , engine overheat and permanent damage . check engine timing is correct , incorect timing can cause overheat . check for external blockage of radiators and air con condenser mud , grass seeds , external corrosion of fins , equals reduced airflow and heat dissapation , too much paint on radiator fins can be cause if someone ( picasso 😆) has heavy coated fins in their wisdom . could have corroded or cracked head and stuffed head gaskets . I have installed low coolant warning alarm in radiator , if coolant loss from leak a warning buzzer ( if buzzer added in circuit ) in cabin sounds along with warning light . a sensor probe must be installed in radiator top tank ( drill tank and solder brass threaded bush , a easy task for a competent radiator repair joint ) also can install a high temp monitor and warning alarm moduel . these can monitor actual temp and can be set to alarm at predetermined high temp . Preventative maintenance carried out correctly and regularly is key to reliability . long live the land cruiser 40

[@wackytabacky3879]

Holy shit my man the project is looking great been a while since the last time I checked in on it good job brother

[@projectwrongway9127]

It’s getting there, always more left to do.

[@wackytabacky3879]

@@projectwrongway9127 always lol never enough money to put into the money pit

[@projectwrongway9127]

When the money runs out, I’ll just donate blood 😆

[@SDALWeller]

It's never done and that's the beauty! Do you happen to have a power steering cooler also? Great too I got from Georg, though I still have to plumb it up. Cheers!

[@projectwrongway9127]

I don’t have the cooler, but it’s something I’ll need to source…

[@vintageteqparts5531]

You Forgot to Replace the LOWER HOUSING too !

[@projectwrongway9127]

It was good! Enough…

[@adamzim]

tighten it till it goes loose then back it off a pinch

[@projectwrongway9127]

My mantra!

[@scod3908]

Looks like you forgot to fill the coolant overflow tank ;) You want that filled so it sucks coolant in when the engine cools down, with it empty it can suck air and cause issues That bleeding contraption might affect it's operation differently than a pressure cap would though?

[@projectwrongway9127]

Good call on filling the tank. What level would you recommend? I just did it half way.

[@scod3908]

@@projectwrongway9127 doesn't it have a full marker on the tank? Doesn't matter, a bit high is better than low to avoid risk of sucking air into the system - they usually just spill out the overflow tube if you overfill, haha

[@projectwrongway9127]

Duh… I’ll check the tank 😆

[@jasonmoss6891]

Does anyone know where I can source a cooling fan shroud for an FJ 40,? Thanks

[@projectwrongway9127]

I’d check with Brandon at Classic Cruisers.

[@michaelmacleod]

An issue like this is frustrating forsure, especially given the amount of money already invested, what distributor are you using? did you go with a HEI unit?

[@projectwrongway9127]

Using an FJ60 Electronic Ignition, it’s been awesome. And yes, struggling with the engine has been taxing, literally 😆

[@michaelmacleod]

@@projectwrongway9127 Well its good enjoyable viewing for us guys, sorry you never made the SAS.

[@projectwrongway9127]

Me too man. We had all the camping gear loaded with my 11 year old son as a copilot… hated letting him down too.

[@stoneshrink]

This is the FJ40 reprise of the premise of The Gods Must be Crazy. Or the random reward sequence that was done with pigeons.... Next time, get the vacuum testing kit - pull a vacuum in the entire system, then suck the fluid in. No need for hose fondling....

[@projectwrongway9127]

Going to source the vacuum kit, especially since the new motor will be running an oil cooler as well.

[@lazlosfj40garage58]

You do not need to put silicon on the bolts. Trust me.

[@projectwrongway9127]

Good to know.

[@lazlosfj40garage58]

@@projectwrongway9127 Also, check the torque on those bolts a few miles down the road

[@projectwrongway9127]

Solid advice, things always have a way of loosening up.