Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 Luxury Watch Review

Check out our updated review of this watch: • Patek Philippe Nautilu...
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The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 has it all: classical design; chronograph, dual-time, and take-it-swimming sportswatch versatility. And because it's a Patek Philippe sports watch, you can wear all of the above with a business suit as well as a bathing suit.
Combine the best elements of the original 1976 Nautilus 3700, the 2006 Nautilus 5980 chronograph, and the 2011 Aquanaut TravelTime 5164, and you get the Nautilus 5990/1A.
Let's start with the simple pleasure of brushed and polished stainless steel, just as original Nautilus creator Gerald Genta envisioned. As of 2014, the old steel-only Nautilus 5980 chronograph was discontinued. If you want the only proper metal for a sports watch, the only true metal for a Nautilus, and the metal that comprises less than 20 percent of total Patek Philippe annual production, you had better line up for the Nautilus 5990/1A. Or skip the line, because this 5990/1A is available from thewatchbox.com with no dealer wait list... and all of the factory warranty coverage!
How about complications? The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A has got 'em in droves. With a chronograph, automatic winding, a radial date, two independent time zones, and twin AM/PM indicators, there is no practical complication that this watch lacks. Even better, Patek Philippe has done a masterful job of integrating this mass of mechanical mastery into a clean and uncluttered package that leaves Gerald Genta's original Nautilus design minimally disturbed. And that's no mean accomplishment.
The signature Nautilus case "wings" are a case-in-point. While the chronograph pushers reprise the delicate taper and minimalist profile of their forerunners on the 5980, check out the travel time adjusters on the opposite flank. What, you claim you don't see the travel time adjusters? Of course you do; Patek Philippe has turned the nine o'clock case "wing" into a bifurcated +/- hour adjuster for the local time zone. Clever, no?
The same level of attention to detail and aesthetic harmony has endowed the Patek Philippe 5990/1A with a dial that exhibits both vertical and bilateral symmetry. Again, the sheer amount of data being conveyed renders this a triumph of packaging prowess and engineering elegance. Even better, the romantic "gradient dial" of the original Nautilus design remains unspoiled. With plenty of open real estate to shift its shade, the dial's romantic transition from intense cumulonimbus borders to argent center is easy to distinguish.
As complicated sports watches go, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 ranks among the best of the best. But the best isn't easy to find, especially if you aren't on the "friends and family" plan at an authorized Patek Philippe dealer.
Fortunately, WatchBox has the fish everyone is looking to land. It's available with full factory boxes, manuals, accessories, and documents of provenance. Even better, this watch was obtained with factory warranty only days prior to the filming of our video, so it retains virtually the entire Patek Philippe factory protection against all defects in workmanship, materials, and performance.
Own it today: visit www.thewatchbox.com to see this Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 in high-resolution images with all accessories. Video and content by Tim Mosso.

[@BenTramer]

Tim has grown so much over the years as a watch reviewer. Love this watch.

[@SuperHermes77]

Great review. Loved the commentary. It was very articulate, efficient, and detailed while not overbearing or long. You kept my attention for the full 10 minutes.

[@JonathanKlein]

Another great review by watchuwantinc. I'm happy to have added the 5990 to my collection...such a great piece!

[@the1916company]

+Jonathan Klein Thank you! And congratulations for adding a fantastic Patek to your collection :-) I was very impressed by the 5990 during my encounter with it, and it has enough feature content - plus versatile character to suit many occasions - to be a man's "one and only" if we ever dared to pare the collection to a single reference. Wear it in great health! Best, Tim

[@GSB_Laz252]

Great review!! I have this piece and it is everything as described and more. I remember when I first bought it I pretty shunned all my other timepieces for about a month lol

[@ternsjo]

Beautiful watch and great review. Unfortunately, I haven't managed to see one in person yet. Too much demand and too little supply :( What do you think of my review of the Patek 5205G?

[@the1916company]

Hi Erik, Thanks for visiting our channel! I enjoyed your 5205G review tremendously, and I envy the quality of some of your movement shots. You did a great job of explaining the history, features, and styling nuances of the 5205G, and we need more watch reviewers like you on KZbin. Sincere enthusiasm and knowledge like yours are in short supply among the mass of profanity, hype, and garden-variety pretension that plague many reviews of "luxury" products, especially watches (read between the lines, and I think you'll know of whom I write...). Your no-nonsense style is refreshing and informative. Keep the good stuff coming, and I'll be certain to follow your work. Best, Tim

[@ternsjo]

watchuwantinc I just made a review of this beautiful watch (and an unboxing video) on my channel. What do you think? Have a good day! :)

[@the1916company]

Hi Erik, I'll check it out and let you know, but I'm confident that coming from an enthusiast like you, it will be an excellent video. Best, Tim

[@ternsjo]

watchuwantinc Thank you very much for the compliment, I appreciate it! :)

[@stelthtalon]

Great review! I have a quick question though. When the chronograph is not in use the Patek website says the hand doubles as running seconds. Is that true? If so how does it work? Thanks, again I really enjoy your videos!

[@the1916company]

stelthtalon Hi stelthtalon, thanks for visiting our channel! What Patek really means is that due to the vertical clutch coupling, there is no danger associated with running the chronograph continuously, so you can keep the chrono seconds hand running *AS THOUGH* it were a conventional center seconds hand. You can also stop it if you find it distracting. Essentially, the distinction here is that unlike the Patek horizontal clutch chronographs, which require gear meshing to run the chrono, the 5990 (and 5980, and 5960...) can run full-time with no adverse effect on service interval or jeopardy to components. Best, Tim

[@eahmhelmoa]

This watch costs almost the price of a 5711 plus a 5164. Wouldn't it make more sense to buys two watches from same maker both are considered icons than buying single watch which is also an icon?

[@anisimful]

Great review! Very detailed and informative. Subscribed :)

[@the1916company]

Anil Sim Hi Anil, thank you for the kind words, and welcome to our channel! Best, Tim

[@jt8506]

I'm in the market for a Nautilus in the next 60-90 days. I actually put down a deposit for a 5726/1A-001 - Stainless Steel - Men - Nautilus so I could lock-in a cheaper rate while the dollar strength is high. I have an opportunity to acquire this watch as well, but really enjoy the moon phase in the prior watch. Do you mind telling me the main differences between the watch I put under deposit and this one? Obviously, this one has two time zones. Which is more of a collector's item? Better watch? etc...

[@the1916company]

+Joseph Tan Hi Joseph, the principal differences deal with size and function. The 5990 is a flyback chronograph, jump-date, dual-time watch with AM/PM indicators. It packs a more massive case and a larger wrist presence than the 5726 (annual calendar and moon phase). Each is rated to 120M of water resistance, but 5726 is geared more towards formality while the larger and more technically-styled 5990 is an aggressive sports watch by Patek standards. The movements are dramatically different in architecture, and the 5990's 2006-present chronograph (CH 28-520) movement is a far more modern platform than the caliber 324-based 5726, but each is beautifully made in the Patek tradition. Neither is likely to be a money-making investment, but the 5990 is harder to obtain at the moment; both watches are likely to hold their value after an initial depreciation hit (post retail sale). If purchased new, you will have to accept the depreciation (20-30% if resold privately later on, 35-40% wholesale) as the cost of enjoying the timepiece while you own it. If you purchase the watch pre-owned, the only expense will be a service every 3-4 years. Best, Tim

[@Mshine21]

Looking into my 5990 now through my AD. Do you think they will discontinue the 5980r?

[@1ro868]

hi tim, what do you think about nautilus 5711 and VC overseas. im struggling and cannot make up my mind for my next time piece. anyway i really like your channel , it offer lots of information +1 subscriber

[@the1916company]

Hi Ichiro, While I enjoy both the Overseas and 5711, I feel that the Patek design has stood the test of time to a degree that the VC has not. The Nautilus has achieved iconic status since its 1976 launch (almost 40 years), and VC is preparing for the 20th anniversary of the Overseas in 2016. If VC decides to dramatically change or upgrade the Overseas for the 20th anniversary next year, you would be left with a clearly older style and possibly a devalued watch. With the Nautilus, on the other hand, history suggests such a dramatic redesign simply cannot occur. The Overseas has been completely restyled once (2004) since its 1996 launch, so its look has not proved as enduring or universally appealing as the Nautilus, which tends to be refined but never rebooted when Patek updates the model. In general, I feel that the Nautilus' use of a higher-quality movement, the Gerald Genta design pedigree, and the long term survival in its original form speaks to the superiority of the Nautilus range, especially the 5711. All that said, buy what you love. I collect JLC, and many of my friends at watchuwant (sports watch fans) tell me that my watches are too small, too old, too formal, but I couldn't care less what they think of watches I love! Taste is individual, so considerations like value, pedigree, enduring style, and time-tested popularity only matter if you've already decided you love a watch. If the VC is the watch you *love,* and the Nautilus is only a watch you *like,* buy the Overseas with no regrets! Best, Tim

[@sarmadmunir3895]

Commentary is awesome dear sir but the watch has not been explored much or captured much

[@the1916company]

Thanks! Check out our updated review of this watch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2KqgK2bjtKJnpo

[@sarmadmunir3895]

@@the1916company thanks sir . I appreciate your care and concern for your subscribers . That's great

[@predator597]

wow, that was a nice review. good job.

[@the1916company]

PunisherUltra Thank you! I try to bring out the best in each watch, and each watch has a unique story. Any Nautilus is a special breed, but the 5990/1A combines so much of what watch guys consider the "right stuff" with a history to match. Best, Tim

[@predator597]

watchuwantinc Can you do a review of the Longines Legend Diver? I think it would be really interesting.

[@the1916company]

Hi PunisherUltra, I'll keep my eye out for the Longines. As soon as we have one in-house, it will move straight to the front of my video queue. Best, Tim

[@ternsjo]

PunisherUltra You might also like my Patek Philippe watch reviews on my channel. Let me know what you think :) Have a good day!

[@itsthepens]

When they finally deign to launch a 5990/1R and make this incredible watch in rose gold, I will re-mortgage my house and RUN to my local AD.

[@zm8878]

Wasn't the 5960 their first automatic chronograph?...

[@the1916company]

+Zak M Hi Zak, yes, the 5960 was, but it shared that status with the 5980 at Baselworld 2006. They launched at the same time. Both watches and the 5990 share the same basic automatic chronograph movement, the CH 28-520, Patek Philippe's first automatic chronograph caliber. The "first" status belongs to the movement, not the watch. In fact, both Patek's first in-house automatic chronograph caliber (this one) and its first manual in-house chronograph caliber (CH 27-525... 5959) were introduced within about 18 months of each other in the mid-2000s. Best, Tim

[@zm8878]

nice, cheers

[@polievets1]

Nice pice, no question about Pate Philippe worth whole attention in the world.

[@28Rolex28]

I think its a fantastic piece. But I can't seem to understand the justification for such price. It's overpriced in my opinion

[@LarsRR]

Daniel Tavares As compared to what?

[@pavy415]

looks like a AP copy -_-

[@acrboi]

+pavy415 .....The Royal Oak and Nautilus are designed by the legendary man himself Gerald. He's also designed many another sport watches for different watchmakers so these design cues don't lead to copies, anything they just share amazing genes. They don't look the same at all. The Royal Oak has an octagonal bezel, with bolts and that stunning bracelet.