How to Patch a Bike Tube Like a PRO! (Avoid These Mistakes)

[@JoshKablack]

My most important tip is to remember to feel around inside the tire and on the rim to be sure whatever caused the puncture isn't still lurking.

[@Do_not_assume]

You make it sound like a monster 😅😅 😅

[@winstonlanda7731]

@@Do_not_assume More like a troll

[@steavejobs-pj5oi]

Super glue and cellophane works well too

[@joequillun7790]

good tip josh.

[@mattflanagan7519]

I’ve been patching tubes for 40 years and had good success . In the last 3 years I’ve been having trouble with patches not holding 🙄. It turns out I had started using too much glue so even though I let the glue become tacky it was still not holding. I’m now using less glue and things seem to be working 😀

[@fendermon]

It is an art to get the perfect patch.

[@ranborenbo884]

Sorry for my bad english,in my country i have glue named syntelan and i bought patches in bicycle shop,after 7 to 10 days i had puncture when i try to fix i saw that my patch was deformed and this was problem and i pealed off this patch so easy i think these patches are trash now i create patch of old tube and works perfect

[@xxxxSylphxxxx]

Nowadays I use the absolute cheapest patches and cheapest vulcanising solution I can find. We're talking cheap Chinese aliexpress 100 patches for £1.99. Likewise, the glue is usually like 5 tubes for £1! I've literally never had a failure in the last decade. I think the most important parts are cleaning and sanding the surface, then using a blob of rubber cement slightly smaller than a pea, rub it in *thoroughly* with a finger over an area larger than the patch. It will very rapidly lose its shine and appear dry and matte. Then leave that matte area for 2 minutes. Now, repeat with a smaller amount of rubber cement, again rubbing it in with a fingertip until its matte, then waiting 2 minutes. Finally, I put the patch on, and I press *really* hard with my fingers, squeezing the tube/patch for about 2 minutes again, being thorough with all parts of the patch. Ideally, after that you'll want to leave it overnight before using it, which is what I usually do (it becomes my new spare tube), but even when I've not been able to do that I've never had a failure. This is the very cheapest patches and 'glue' that money can buy. Practically a lifetime supply for a tiny amount of money. A tube of glue lasts for a few years after opening, and decades before being opened! If your patches aren't holding, rest assured its probably because the vulcanising solution isn't effectively adhering the patch to the tube. Just bear in mind that the rubber cement kinda 'melts' the surface of the inner tube so that your patch can bond with it. This means that grease or dirt can upset the reaction, making cleaning and sanding very important. It also means plenty of time for the solution to be in contact with air to chemically soften the rubber, and lots of pressure to 'merge' the two pieces of rubber together. If you just think about getting that chemical softening agent to work its way into your innertube, and 'merging' your rubber patch with the chemically softened area of tube, best practice becomes intuitive.

[@unclefester610]

@@ranborenbo884 Every time I try using old tubes as patches it fails %70 of the time.

[@sal2417]

Use super glue and receipt paper I promise its the best life hack I've ever learned

[@christiansoleta7556]

Use your fingers to check and clear the inside of the tire for the guilty thorn before re-inserting the tube

[@ME-hm7zm]

Very much this

[@TheJimc101]

Identifying why you got a flat in the first place is very important, no use fixing the innertube, but not eliminating what caused it.

[@jenniferbrien3408]

If you do the old roadie trick of lining up the tyre label with the valve stem, you won't have to search the whole tyre.

[@ZeroP0int]

Yes! But be cautious and visibly look, as well, for more harmful culprits like glass! You don't want to cut your finger!

[@danielashleybaker]

@@ZeroP0int yeah I've ran my hand around in a rush and got a wire inserted thoroughly into my finger.

[@mgboulay]

Newish cyclist here. Just wanted to let you know I really enjoy your channel.

[@tomreingold4024]

Good tips. I've learned that erring on the side of waiting too long for the glue to dry works fine. I once forgot about a drying tube for an hour. The patch held just fine.

[@albertbatfinder5240]

I have wondered about that, so thanks for the anecdotal evidence. Just yesterday I got distracted fixing a puncture and thought the glue got way too dried out. However, it worked fine. So we have “proof by two examples”, the highest order of scientific proof.

[@leightonbohl1920]

Everything you say is right - i like to fold the clear plastic backing in the middle to the point where it splits and then remove it by pulling it from the centre to the outside edge. To speed up the glue drying time try putting the first coat on, THEN FLAMING IT WITH A MATCH. Blow the fame out and then apply coat 2 and do same. You’ll find the rima patch will stick perfectly. An old bike messenger hack. Cheers from the UK

[@beforedawn]

how close do you get with the match? Or are you actually lighting it and blowing it out immediately?

[@ZeroP0int]

Love the video as I was the patching master. Definitely recommend the REMA TT patch kit! I've been using for nearly 30 years and even though I haven't actually needed to fix a tube in years, I'm glad to see it's still in production. I grew up on this patch kit. In my youth, I had a tube with 20+ patches on it before I ended up retiring it! All the tips are spot on; however, I always removed the plastic film. After waiting for the patch to cure, I folded the tube at the edge of the patch to lift the film away so that it didn't also lift the edge of the patch. Thanks for this--brings back memories.

[@outbackwack368]

Thanks! I carry alcohol preps and wipe the tube to remove any oils before sanding, and then immediately after to remove any bits. Stay warm and safe!

[@sassymate]

I get the clear plastic off by folding along the centre of the patch and giving it a good pinch. Splits the plastic down the middle and let's you peel it from the centre out and not lift the edges.

[@duroxkilo]

@KCarch25 Unkown i believe i saw the ppl from Park tool Saying the same about their patching kits

[@chrissierg]

Thanks so much; this was good; makes sense and glad I watched it… :)

[@paulsslightlyactivelife]

Pretty solid advice, which I've found to work. In 2018 I got a road bike for commuting and was never convinced that a high pressure 25mm wide tube could be patched the same as my lower pressure 2inch MTB ones. With practice I've managed it. The trick is to be calm and don't rush the job. If I get a flat while on a ride I now swap for a brand new tube but at home I'll patch the broken tube at leisure and re-fit it.

[@davyhaynes6716]

Russ, the “glue” is actually vulcanizing fluid which serves as a catalyst for the rubber (actually butyl) patch to vulcanize with the tube. The purpose of sanding is mostly to remove any mold release compound that facilitates the release of the tube from its mold when manufactured. Although it is useful to remove any raised seams (a razor blade work better for that). Also, I recommend a quarter used on edge for burnishing the newly installed patch versus the tire lever. It provides a much firmer and concentrated force. It also will help heat the patch with vigorous rubbing which speeds the chemical vulcanization reaction (same reason that back in the day they commonly used a match or lighter to heat a newly installed path).

[@caterwaulin6837]

This video was great I’m still running tubes over here. Love your new background!!!

[@cccorlew]

If I'm home I use a silver Sharpie that I can actually see. Tricia's tip for Roadies: Tie your flat tube in a loose knot so you'll know you haven't patched it yet when you get home and toss it on your pile of whatever stuff.

[@tardigrada6000]

Mind blown lol

[@mitmon_8538]

Ok, who is Tricia and where do her tips reside? "Loose knot tube = flat" is pure genius. About once a year I have to blow up a ton of random tubes to see if they'll hold air. Of course then they get deflated and thrown back into my whatever stuff pile, which I'm ashamed to say is most of my garage. :)

[@mcseacock]

I use a sharpie paint pen that works on the wet tube after dunking in water.

[@danmathis4046]

Your forte: explaining 'how to' in easy to understand show & tell. That's...why we watch you!!! Thanks!! Just keep doing this!!!

[@Tbird420]

When I was into DH and most folks hadn't yet gone to tubeless I rode with a guy who swore by lighting the vulcanizing fluid with a lighter to ensure better curing before placing the patch. I never did it, but I've seen him do it a dozen times. Great tips Russ!

[@vhfgamer]

You can apply heat to the patch after it's applied and that helps as well.

[@johnkomosa4089]

Yes!, this is how we were taught to do it as kids, I have 5 older brothers and we did it this way! I have gone fireless, but on tough challenging patch jobs, I still think the fire technique has advantages. (Especially on a thicker tube, the new china tubed can not take the heat and will schrivel and warp..) use heat and flame with caution!

[@koleale]

Great instructional video. I have a little tip regarding the nasty tendency for patches to pull away from the inner-tube while trying to remove the clear cellophane backing. I figured out a solution to this problem after finally noticing that some patches have a barely visible score line running down the center of the cellophane backing. Here’s what to do with them. First, if there’s no score line, create one by delicately running a single edge blade over the midline of the cellophane backing. Next, pull each half of the cellophane away from the underlying rubber, starting at that midline point, such that it creates a tiny flange on each side, which you can grab onto later. Next, glue patch to tube per manufacturer instructions; let dry for 2-3 minutes. Now, carefully grab those cellophane flanges and pull each away from the center in a fashion that is nearly horizontal (not upward) until they’re fully removed. In this way, you avoid pulling up on the patch’s outer margins, where the rubber is most likely to peal up and away from the inner-tube. That being said, I’m not sure there’s any great downside to just leaving the cellophane on the tube!

[@jamesturner6381]

I agree- just leave it!

[@TheGotoGeek]

This is the exact same way I do it, so it must be right :)). Also, once the cement is tacky it can sit almost indefinitely before applying the patch. I once prepped a tube, applied the glue, then taught a class on canti brakes for an hour, and then finally applied the patch.

[@Keech_ka2357]

Thank you for making this video! I've been riding for years and have recently set up both my bikes tubeless. No one ever showed me how this should be done, and I have never successfully patched a tube. This video 3 years ago would have saved my skin.

[@FSE-Coaching]

Love this, thanks so much. I run tubeless on half my bikes, but others I don't ride as much so the sealant would dry out. I just use tubes for those now so that's not a problem. And since I want to reuse punctured tubes, I'm trying to get pro at patching them. I just wish they had a bulk patch kit!

[@curtbrown7967]

New backdrop is hole next level. Good tube tips Mr. Russ. You pegged it! Enjoy the new studio.

[@crowhurd]

I wish I would’ve watched this video about 20 minutes ago as my patch job isn’t working. Time to apply your tips. :)

[@martyjoseph9507]

Yeah, I'll be doing it for a third time I'm thinking. Patches have changed since I was a kid

[@chrishemsworth5150]

Excellent review… after the video, I realized I was missing a step, or two. Thank you 🙏🏻

[@bradpoindexter]

If the rubber dust that remains after sanding is not removed, the patch will not stick as well. I always clean the sanded zone with isopropyl alcohol and paper towel after sanding. Thumbs up on marking the hole with LONG crosshairs (like a rifle scope).

[@mancello]

Good tips. You can blow on the glue to speed up the drying process. Glue can also dry out in an unused tube. Pays to replace the glue every year or so. This is why I always carry a spare tube and not just a patch kit just in case the glue dried up in the tube.

[@tpaul793]

Never thought about leaving the plastic on. I've always struggled to peel it off with lifting up a bit of the edge of the patch.

[@souravbhattacharyya3392]

After a long time I found one youtuber whose pronunciation was understandable from beginning till the end,nice informative video,keep it up.

[@JohnBarrow1961]

Good tips. People love to avoid reading the directions, have the patch fail, then write negative reviews about the kit on Amazon. It really isn't difficult if you just follow these tips and/or the directions.

[@alastairbaldwin2904]

New set looks great, Russ, well done! Really good lighting.

[@phillipcowan1444]

The banana shirt is definitely a modern classic now. You really should put that up. 🙂

[@edcatt9196]

Your advice on patching is right on the mark. I've watched people impatiently putting the patch on a still fresh glue surface (after suggesting they wait a while), and then having to do the whole thing all over again moments later. Also, going tube-less is great. I love it. But even then you can still get damage that requires a tube to get you home; and even then you could still get yet another flat and need to patch the replacement tube (it's happened to me). So, though tubeless is fantastic, the skill of patching a tube isn't something to assume you don't need to know. Thanks, Russ. I like your new setting! Lots of options for changing the background when you want to. I think the whole lighting you have creates a nice ambiance. It's warm and inviting, not harsh.

[@garyhildebrandt]

Looks like your new space is going to be way more versatile. You keep making we'll keep watching! All best wishes

[@chickensmack]

I do carry the glueless patches, when I'm out and about. They are only for emergencies to get me home. Once I get home (or to the office) I switch it out to a glued Rema. Good stuff, Russ.

[@Tbird420]

Same. I always throw one or two into my patch kit just in case.

[@bikeman7982]

Applied properly, I find the Park Tool Super Patch glueless patches pretty reliable and permanent on road tubes.

[@NelsonSherry]

@@bikeman7982 Wow. I sure don't. I find the Park "glueless" patches great for short term use, but they reliably fail within weeks on my road wheels and within months on moutainbike wheels, back when I still used tube on my mountain bikes.

[@bikeman7982]

@@NelsonSherry Might depend on the tube? I use Schwalbe SV20 ultralight tubes. There were times when I'd be fixing a flat when I'd find earlier patches that I had forgotten about.

[@chickensmack]

@@bikeman7982 They are quite secure for a time. I almost never replace my tubes. They usually have 8 or 10 patches, before I toss them. I've had glueless patches stay on for a year or so. The Texas heat eventually dries them out and they almost fall off the tube.

[@GravelGodsBeEverInYourFavor]

Love the new pegboard backdrop and lighting, Russ! Quality advice here.

[@grintalcycles8266]

I run both tubes and tubeless setups and the tips were spot on. I too leave the clear cover on the patches till the next time I am patching that tube. As soon as I got a tube patched it goes into a rim and tire combo that has been retired from riding to make sure that it holds pressure and is good to go for next time. Then the next day if it holds pressure will go into the spares box.

[@tylermiller7295]

My wife and I enjoy your channel. Glad things are going in your favor. We have been sending positive thoughts your way. We enjoy your content and have purchased gravel bikes because of it. Keep up the good work

[@timfarness5136]

Need your logo up on the backdrop, but overall don't get carried away. less is more.

[@joshwhitee]

New set looks great! Only suggestion I'd have is to soften up your key light just a touch you're blowing out the highlights on your face just a bit, (your space looks like a booklight would work great as a really nice soft key!). But great info as always!

[@petebenson5030]

tip top rules. Still I first discovered it 45 years ago and it was a game changer. I did zillions of patches. Eventually got a good business repairing sew-up tire (tubs to brits) Remove the plastic backing by bending the finished patch so the backing breaks in the middle and peel it off from the middle. I second the reminder to always check the tire inside and out for sharp things left in there. Be careful they're sharp.

[@Vences5]

I run tubeless but this is still great advice for patching tires themselves when a plug just happens to keep leaking, thanks!

[@n8m837]

My kit before going tubeless was: Square of sandpaper Cuttings of an old innertube, same size as a patch Superglue Never had a problem.

[@beforedawn]

strange because superglue dries hard and crusty on almost everything.

[@chefnigeltv8580]

RUUUSSSSS!!! The lighting tho!!! Very dramatic and applies to your style and environment so well.

[@robmdq]

accurate tips! The real problem (and i had it more than once) is when the puncture is right by the valve... that's a headache! Also, I don't purchase bike patches anymore (after many bad experiences) I use car tyre patches, those never failed me

[@stevenmiller7731]

What brand of car tire patch do you use and where do you get them. I’ve been searching on Google and Amazon for almost an hour and they all sell the same low quality small stuff. I am looking for a patch kit which will patch a truck tire innertube. Most ads come up to patch a tubeless tire, not a tube.

[@kgranger]

These are the tips I needed. I got my first flat last week, patched it to get to work. Once I got off work my tire was waiting flat for me... aired it up and it got me home but when I pulled the tube to check for leaks... yep, my patch was BARELY leaking from the edge. Replaced it and today, flat again...

[@dougcohenmiller]

The space looks amazing. Super cool lighting too.

[@matthewguenther6925]

Solid video! (I vote for a fishing pole with a bicycle shaped fly!) I remove the plastic, when the tube gets inflated and stretches, it comes off anyways (then falls out later). A trick I learned "back in the day" (if you take the plastic off) is put a dab of talcum powder or roadside dust on the patch and rub lightly before you put it back in the tire. It takes the tackiness off the outside of the patch so it will move/slip properly against the tire and keeps any excess vulcanizing compound from bonding the tube and patch with the tire casing. And as has already been mentioned, before you remove the tube from the wheel (even if you are replacing the tube), carefully (don't cut your finger) examine the inside of tire around the puncture to make sure there isn't glass/stone/wire/screw/wood chip still poking through. A tire lever works pretty well for this because you can feel it and usually hear it catch on something that shouldn't be there. It really stinks to patch a tube, throw it back on, start to pump and PSSSSSSSSS because something sharp is still in the tire.

[@danhackett4199]

Great job I patched tires on bikes and car’s. Learned the hard way. Hopefully people will do as you well explain and be back riding in a short time. New studio is looking good.

[@danalbert5785]

Some good comments. My first patch experience was 1968. I have given up patching on the side of the road. It is just too dirty to get good results. Patch when you get home and clamp the patch for hours! A patch should be good for years. OK to have 7 or 8 patches in one tube! Switch known good tubes on the side of the road. If you run out of tubes, then patch with gorilla tape that you wrapped around your mini pump. When get home. fix tube properly. I have seen gorilla tape patches last months! Good patch lasts years!

[@MP-zf7kg]

Good tip on the ink lines. Seams are a flipping struggle, and it's pretty much always the leak is near a seam.

[@andre_renard]

Awesome new space! If I might offer a suggestion, I would turn up the lighting on the background a little, or add an extra fill light for the background; currently it feels a bit like you are in a dark room. And for background decorations, maybe add the safety pizza for a little extra fun? On the topic of the video, great patching tips! You've reminded me I need order some new patch glue for summer; mine must be over 4 years old now...

[@ajwilliams7757]

The set and lighting is already awesome! I'm digging the new space.

[@gradywright]

Thanks Russ as always you have the best content. You made tube patching interesting and I learned some new tricks even though I have patched MANY tubes. This is why I never skip a video. I like the new background and that you went with a warmer theme. One suggestion I have is to leave the wall behind your head clear the saddle was a bit distracting. But maybe that’s just me in which case I apologize for being a weirdo.

[@laner989]

No need to sand or other things. Just clean area with alcohol, brush on vulcanizing rubber compound. Clamp for 20 minutes. I just use rubber from an old inner tube, no need for patch kits etc. Just be careful not to have any flame near by or breath the fumes, as the compound is quite toxic. Old school, but it works very reliably. Not a glue works by dissolving a layer of rubber, then rubber solidifies into 1 solid piece Amazon has vulcanizing rubber compound for about $50. Enough to last several generations of riders.

[@rafriedman]

Great suggestions. I followed your method and washed out because the Rema kit though unopened was from the Bush era! I got a new, similar Park kit and it worked perfectly. My conclusion is either the glue or patches deteriorate over time.

[@chrishoffman9923]

Thank you !! Same here. Been patching tubes all my life ( 56 ) and always had good results. I'm looking / watching videos today to figure out why I am having horrible results recently !! WHAT AM I DOING WRONG !!! I am frustrated to say the least. Fresh adhesive, sanding well, marking my spot clearly, cleaning tube with alcohol after sanding, letting alcohol dry, letting glue dry. Maybe I am overusing glue.....? Hmmmm.... Thanks ! I think that's the problem.

[@simeonjones9227]

It’s great to see you in your new space, I hope 2021 is a year of joy for you and your loved ones. Hoping to see you in Wales sometime for some epic riding!

[@kimdokkyu]

Looking great! Congratulations on your new studio Russ!

[@stevepark6363]

Great tip about leaving the plastic on. New set looks good - the lighting is looking good, perfect at many points but you drift in and out of the perfectly lighted pocket, but really, it’s mostly terrific.

[@kymcopyriot9776]

Good tips Russ, thanks. I had convinced myself that with good sanding and burnishing, glue less patches could be permanent...nup. Last week here in Oz with temperatures above 100, one of my bikes suffered a flat on a patched tube...while static on a work stand. Doubtless the heat had ‘melted’ the sticky stuff on the clueless patch and it had delaminated. From here on I’ll be going gluey all the way.

[@martinfletcher6543]

Good tips Russ! The new studio looks good. FYI, First time commenting. Discovered your channel a little while ago. I’m hooked. Binge watching during COVID. 😃👍

[@jeffk433]

New space is starting to look good Russ! I agree with the less is more decor wise. Of course it should be flexible, changed periodically and maybe matched to the theme of video at times. The lighting on you seemed a bit narrow.

[@altocode2563]

Oh nice!!!! The lighting and background definitely make a huuuge difference! Thanks for the good tips!!! 👍🏼

[@uniquenamegoeshere2263]

The new set is great. Beautiful lighting.

[@jcsrst]

Excellent tips! Despite being a long time rider with plenty of patching experience, I found this helpful! The cross hairs are super good idea! I have heard that the cellophane on the patch helps it slide against the inside of the tire so it won't peal off.

[@bjmihovk]

New space is looking awesome, Russ!!!

[@Korina42]

Once you open the glue, a small piece of plastic wrap between the tube opening and the lid will keep the glue from drying out.

[@chrisralston2654]

Great little video, Russ. You are a master at making the mundane actually interesting. And I learned something!

[@Likelybiking]

Love the new space!! Also, I run tubeless but still care a dynaplug, a tube and patches just in case. And I can always help out another person if they are in need!!

[@dannyhengel7645]

rad little tutorial I like it. just found this channel and it seems chill

[@C_Haberstoked]

Great basic skill any biker should know. The new set looks good!

[@LarryMullins111]

Love the new work space...congrats!!!!!!!!!!

[@DAZLIN6]

Great tips. I also use a couple of clothes pegs to press the patch to the inner tube for a hour or two before packing the tube away.

[@Thomas-fy9yc]

Nice studio setup, good lighting and sound.

[@roberttrego9392]

You gave great , I would suggest letting people know to use a chalk pen like from dollar tree(white or green work the best and if you do it on the hole while the tube is filled it will give you a better idea of how big it is by pushing the chalk away and revealing the hole. Another trick for those who want to have a lower chance of getting future flats is to cut another tube down the inside and out the valve stem to where you can turn it into a sort of casing for your innermost tube and use a layer of baby powder for less friction or snags that might cause the tube to bubble or not proper line in with the tire. I ride with 2 to 3 casing old tubes as a security measure in case of unavoidable degree that may have previously left you with a flat now gives you a musher thicker armor or shield against those unfortunate punctures that leave you with a mountain of frustrations that could make or break your day. More casings using other tubes also slow the air from escaping when facing a much bigger or deeper punture . Also remind people to always check your valve stem for correct tightnes. You could do everything right and have a lose valve stem and never known it and think you messed something up and drive yourself nuts.

[@roberttrego9392]

Great advice. Oops

[@georgeemil3618]

I just done another patching. Before removing the tube, mark the tire where the valve is on the cog side for future reference. After removing the tube and you have found your leak, reference where it is relative to the valve. Now look for that spot on the tire and the rim to see the source of the puncture. Replace the tube with your spare and do the patching at home. Get a white ink marker. Sand down an area much larger than your patch. Spread the glue around the entire sanded area. After applying the patch, put a brick on it and leave it for an hour. After the hour, test it by pumping up a little bit so that you feel resistance when you squeeze it with you finger and thumb but not so much that a leak with develop through the glue. Leave it for a few hours. If it's going flat again, find out where starting with the patch. You may have to do it again.

[@chris1275cc]

I think you missed an important step especially if the tube is going straight back on the rim, and that is to apply the chalk dust after patching to avoid any excess glue sticking to the tyre. And on that note, one mistake a lot of people make is to use the same sand paper on the chalk as on the tube which causes problems the next time you have to patch, on most kits there is a little square of rough plastic on the box for that.

[@michaellofaso1351]

Good tips! Great new space. Well done as always Russ. Best wishes to Laura.

[@willpenner6181]

Russ the new space looks so nice, very gravel specific. Also great tips 👌

[@johngrady1083]

I suggest that you use that studio space to display your larger artwork and possibly the artwork of other "Party Pace" artists (just like me) on a rotational basis. Also, try some interior LED adhesive strip lights to brighten up your background... just a suggestion. Keep up the great work and remember bikepacking and flyfishing equals happiness and joy!

[@vickaiser]

Hey, the space looks great. Thanks for showing the patch demo

[@agentleebs]

I added a tiny piece of chalk and small metal tweezers (forceps) to my kit. Since tiny pieces of wire ( I’ve read they’re from tire belts) have caused my flats yet remain in the tire casing and will cause another flat. Carefully rub the inside tire to find them. I mark the tube and tire with the chalk so I can find the wire, sand spur, etc.

[@nicko12100]

thanks for that video!.......good luck on the new set!!!

[@LanderGuy]

Excited for you and your new space Russ. Keep the great content coming and the community conversations going! Oh, and yes, one of your watercolors absolutely belong on your backdrop!

[@benjaminswanson9092]

New setup looks great!

[@galenanderson6006]

I use a rotary tool with a sanding drum attachment to scuff and clean the tubes while patching. It helps when doing a few at a time.

[@duraath]

love the new backdrop! looks like you've step up the game! amazing how you've grown since ive followed you years ago.

[@nigelstanley3674]

Great vid. Yes. Made some of those mistakes. Too eager. New location looking cool. Thanks

[@christophergawrych7099]

Sets coming along nice thanks for the tips, nice spot to hang some tools.

[@ConsciousEnneagram]

Digging the look of the new studio! Good work! I can't wait to see how it evolves!

[@briansittner3303]

Always good to see if I miss something that someone else does. On a side note that wall DEFINITELY needs a Big Mouth Billy Bass!

[@RickyHolton]

Loving the new background! It looks great!

[@davidp7414]

the studio looks great!

[@hondasaurusrex6998]

I used small patches cut from old tubes, so worries about the plastic. 😁 been using the fingernail check method on the glue for over 40 years. Once the patch is on I'll heat it up by using a hair dryer on it for a minute or two. Stay safe and well.

[@WheelsonaBike]

Thank you for the tips. I've only ever replaced tubes, but could have patched them if I knew how. This was very helpful. Love the new studio setup. Well done.

[@TheYoungerJoker]

Great tips. Good job on the new background, it looks great.

[@timleborgne]

For the background: the measuring tape;)!! Great new studio, congrats on the move:)!

[@erina5543]

Dannnng look at that profesh studio! Great job Russ!

[@billromano5844]

Great tips! The set looks great!

[@manFromPeterborough]

I use a stitcher wheel to press the patch down, they can be a small coin size Duuti brand to a full size 30mm x 5mm, 30 x 20, 30 x 45

[@Brok3nDream]

Loving the new space. Excited to see how it develops!

[@paperboi4311]

Dude. Stepping it up! Right on. Love it.