Patreon member Paul ask why their W126 car starts & stalls after a couple of seconds. HD 1080p

[@racistinfidel5118]

Man, this post is timely. I'm trying to get my '88 300SE back on the road. The car sat for 10 years. From everything I read, I was going to have to replace most, if not all of the fuel system. So I just started at the FP and worked my way forward. I rebuilt the FD with a kit. Everything was straightforward. It came apart without force, requiring only my hands. Everything was cleaned up and reassembled, again with hand pressure only. I used the original EHA that came with the car. I have picked up spares of the ECU, FPR, OVP, EHA, and ICV. New Injectors, cap, and rotor were thrown in the mix. The plenum was OE, so it was replaced also. In all honestly, all I found wrong was the ICV was stuck and the air hose from the throttle to the ICV had a tear in it. The engine acts exactly as you describe. I picked up gauges to set the DP and everything seemed right. The engine would start and then die. I was able to get it running one time with a LOT of effort, and got it up to temperature. No hot start. The engine ran with some hesitation, like it was gasping for air. I removed the FD yesterday and checked the Plunger Nut. It was set at 0.6mm per the kit instructions. This was offered as a "START" measurement, but no one tells you how a final set is determined. So I adjusted it until I just got fuel to deliver at the injector outlets. I then backed it out until the fuel flow stopped. I figure the metering edges are about as close together as they need to be. While I have the FD off, I plan to change out the POT on the throttle just to get it changed, figure it going to need it. Just more room to work. So grasping at straws, I started at the beginning. I have cycled thru all of the electronics spares, one at a time, with no difference. Except for the EHA. It's a little harder to swap out than the plugins. So while I had the FD in hand I exchanged the EHA with my spare and set the DP to 0.4 bar. And then I found this post! I still have to get the fuel pipes back on. But I think I may see some light at the end of the tunnel and it might not be that train. Wish me luck. When doing the final A/F ratio with the 3mm screw, how sensitive is the adjustment? You mention that you make this setting using a vacuum. Any pointers? And THANK YOU!

[@racistinfidel5118]

Bless you sir for sharing your knowledge. The change of EHA got it going. I get a cold start, 40deg start, and 90deg start. Idle is still dodgy, but it is idling. Some fine tuning and I should be on the road again. Again, thank you.

[@sargent255]

Always good info from you

[@top6ear]

This is great information

[@cromanczuk]

In my 1987 300E some days when I start my car it will start first time fine. Rarely when i start my car it dies instantly. After starting for the second time it runs perfect. I was told this is because of fuel pressure low on injectors.

[@IslandStylee87]

My 560sel just started doing this the other day it was running fine now won't start at all just cranks

[@ozzstars_cars]

Did you get the issue resolve? What was the problem? I am trying to diagnose a 560SL that starts perfectly every time and the engine shuts off after running for 5 seconds.

[@alexandrebeinotti3359]

Tks

[@natejgreene9871]

i prefer to adjust by Lambda

[@ozzstars_cars]

.995 perfection