Tiger Cub Engine Assembly - Part 2 // Paul Brodie's Shop

[@johndeere1951a]

Rule of Loctite : Blue - for parts that you will take apart for servicing. Red - for assemblies that you cannot see, and you do not disassemble during normal life of part. Crank shaft, ring gear, timing gear, drive axle... This is such a simple design. Your giving it more love than most received in their rough service. Great presentation 🇨🇦🇬🇧🏆✌️ 🇺🇲 ps, the exchange rates, added import duty expense across our borders is crazy. 🥴

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, I agree with your Rule of Loctite.. I just like making things very nice. It's Who I Am. Thanks for watching and commenting...

[@joseywales3789]

You are right Paul, the semicircular keyway is milled to fit a semicircular hardened key that's called a *WOODRUFF* key it fits into a longitudinal slot keyway!

[@richardortiz8704]

he's a good mechanic on that tire cup motor thanks for Beaumont California

[@Throtle21043]

thank you mr.Brodie!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Alexandr.

[@gargoreg]

To tighten the clutch nut: Put it in gear and support the final drive sprocket as you did before. But now you have a tool, you're better off then me. Love your work..... It amazes me how across the Triumph/BSA range the engines are so similar. I have a BSA B25 Starfire, yes many times I've taken the clutch apart. Good luck.

[@donsipes]

Agreed. Back in the day I slathered the rings on a rebuild with assembly lube. Too slippery, they wouldn't seal. Had to disassemble, clean off all the lube. I now use just a light film of 2 stroke oil. The rings need to bed into the cylinder cross hatch. Almost dry is the way to go. CHEERS

[@margueritemitchell1829]

Hello from British Columbia Canada,🇨🇦👍👋♥️🤔 neighbor.

[@thebones]

There is something very satisfying about watching this assembly Paul, thank you.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for watching!

[@hughferrier5837]

Paul I have watched a few of your interesting and informative films. I have given them a thumbs up but have not commented. They are very helpful. I knew the BSA C15 engine was based on the Tiger Cub but did not realise how similar. I have a '59 C15. Fascinating. I was so sorry to hear of your health. Get well soon and God bless.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Hugh. We both like British!

[@hughferrier5837]

@@paulbrodie Yes, I love the old British bikes. Why? I don't know. My C15 leaks oil from places beyond imagination! But they look , like your wee Tiger Cub, so good. Driving them is such fun - puts a smile on your face. I look forward to you taking your Tiger Cub out in the spectacular Canadian countryside and making a film of it!

[@paulbrodie]

@@hughferrier5837 Thanks Hugh. I just got my collector plate yesterday, so we will go for a ride and film it on a nice (warmer...) day! 😉

[@hughferrier5837]

@@paulbrodie Yes! Paul do wait for a warmer day. Even here in Scotland it is -5.6°C right now. I know you get it much colder. I will not be taking the C15 out till March. The salt will be off the roads hopefully by then. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I have a KZbin channel with some C15 films on it.

[@Farlig69]

13:49 I'm with you there, less is more and none is best!!! If you're afraid of none, a little WD40 then, the best ring bedding in is none, and there's plenty splash lube when the motor's running!!

[@johnpublic168]

Nice chance to make alum tube. Really enjoy your assembly video

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you John.

[@derekgee8504]

Enjoyed that video , some things are sent to try us

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Derek.

[@humourless682]

A very common issue with Cubs is the clutch slipping when you kick the bike over. New clutch plates, and springs help reduce the slipping, as does some sort of decompressor to make starting easier. Also, it's worth remembering to soak cork clutch plates in engine oil, before they are fitted, which is often forgotten. Oil will piss out of your rocker shafts without the o-rings fitted. Very easy to machine a thimble which fits over the rocker shaft, with a long taper, to compress the o-ring, so it doesn't get damaged when the shafts are fitted.

[@paulbrodie]

The o-rings are on the rocker shafts, they just got slightly shaved during assembly...

[@humourless682]

@@paulbrodie The shafts WILL leak! O-rings need to be slightly compressed as they go into the head, to avoid them being damaged. Not that difficult to make a simple tool to fit them properly.

[@federext]

Awesome Paul!! I enjoyed part one so know its time for part two!! Thank you

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Fede.

[@Shinysideup]

Definitely a woodruff key Paul. Loving the work on the tiger cub.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Ian. Sure glad I got the name right!

[@truethought369]

Dear Paul, I used to weld two smooth plates together, then you have a solid drive! Yes I know you thought the same? ! * Nice one.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Chris 😉

[@philmuskett265]

Brilliant, mate. And, as stated before, if you're missing a part, any part, just look in the bottom of the bucket!!!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Phil.

[@petrichor649]

Loved the black and white shift during the tension shot.

[@christophercullen1236]

Paul I have finally worked it out ( I can hear your elbow click) I work in Norton bike shop for 2 years I can't believe how much we did wrong. I appreciating watching your videos and seeing your methods. Christopher from Down Under

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Christopher.

[@colinbagshaw1796]

Hi Paul there was an assembly sleeve for cub rocker spindles that had a taper to compress the ring as it went into the head. Also a good trick for the tube is to make up some very thin tube sleeve that go outside the seals to stop them squishing out over time. Same as the t120 Bonny. 0.050” was what I skimmed my tubes to compress both seals. Skim head skim tube.

[@paulbrodie]

If they leak I will make that special tool.

[@macreit]

Hi, I soak the corked plates in gearbox oil, for some time, before I install them in my Vespa. That helps, at first start, to avoid burns and dryness. They have to soak the oil in and not just get oiled when installed because the centrifugal force would get rid of the surface oil in a matter of seconds from the first start of the engine. If they get soaked, when you start the engine the excess oil would get sprayed off and the cork will start doing its job right away. The clutch will last longer and first adjustments would be easier as this would exclude issues of dragging or slipping of the discs.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you.

[@paulbrown1870]

Enjoying all the information on the tiger cub great job mate excellent 👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Paul!

[@Alanbataar]

As always, thanks for the video Paul & Mitch. Being young and over-confident (I didn't need a rag because I *wouldn't* drop it.... ), of course, I dropped a wrist pin clip into the crank case of the first race engine I ever built, a Honda Hawk, NT650. Being young and strong, I shook that motor upside down over my head for over half an hour, and the damn wrist pin clip wouldn't come out. I tried solvents, too, with the thought that it might be stuck to a thin film of oil. I could hear it tinkling inside, taunting me. After splitting the cases, I found one end of the clip had slightly stuck into the oil sump intake screen, where it would pivot (making the noise) but not come free. It was a low-cost, high-labor lesson. Regarding the stackup on the pushrod tube, I think I'd try gently assembling it as is first, and see if those rubber gaskets will compress that much.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Alan. Stock pushrod tubes are pretty crappy. Next video is a custom 6061 pushrod tube. Yes, that was a lot of work for you getting that circlip out!

[@johndumelow6675]

My 1958 cub had a guide inside the pushrod tube to ease assembly. This consisted of a circular metal disc with two holes that was soldered in place inside the pushrod tube. I am not sure if all Cubs had this but it certainly made assembly easier.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, I did read about that. It was one of (3) styles of pushrod tubes. Triumph did that for a while, then discontinued it...

[@dennisyoung4631]

Felt Washer…. I recall buying some felt at Amazon. It’s for an oil wiper - silicone oil, to lube sewing thread when sewing heavy fabrics like 1000d Cordura… 5/32 is a bicycle hub bearing size - I *think.* I know I have some of that size in my bearing assortment. You too? One of the first welding projects I did was to weld up a valve spring compressor out of *4130 tubing!*

[@paulbrodie]

I will try a drum shop for some felt. Mitch found the 5/32" ball. And you made your own valve spring compressor too!

[@redcloudscollective]

You don't need to shorten your pushrod tube. There are a variety of thicknesses for the top and bottom pushrod tube bushings on most websites that sell vintage Triumph parts. A few others mentioned fitting the head without the bushing on the pushrod tube to see if that fits and if it does it will also give you a good idea of the thickness of each bushing needed. Keep up the great work!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks. Next episode is a custom pushrod tube. It ended up being about 3/16" shorter.

[@redcloudscollective]

@@paulbrodie Can't wait to see!

[@BokorRider]

aye woodruff keys and the valve keeprs also called collets at least in some old car engines

[@MurrayC]

5/32 ball bearings are a normal bicycle size - well done Mitch!

[@paulbrodie]

Mitch saves the day!

[@glenpiro313]

Another excellent episode Paul, thank you. You did yourself a disservice at the beginning however. I am an engine assembler. You Sir are an engine builder. Massive difference. Rob Muzzy, Cary Andrew, Keith Perry….. Builders. You are right there with that crew.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Glen.

[@ccbproductsmulti-bendaustr3200]

Yes correct to minimize oil in bore and rings , we did extensive testing and found dry cylinder with oil on piston only , rings bedded in quicker and achieved better sealing, minimal leakage with leak down testing with no detriment to longevity, ( not relevant to niksil bores never tested these ) 👍👏👌

[@paulbrodie]

My Excelsiors have Nikasil bores. No oil on the rings and just a little on the piston skirts. Works fine.

[@ramblerandy2397]

Hooray! Every time you've mentioned KEY of that type before I've said to myself WOODRUFF. And I've been patiently waiting for you to name it. 😊

[@paulbrodie]

Good thing I got the name right!

[@davidcort2857]

Another great video Paul, does make you think one of the reasons the British bike industry failed is because of inconsistency.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks David. Yes, that would be one of many reasons. We could point to antiquated machinery.

[@monikacognomen1096]

@@paulbrodie Labour relations would be my pick. My father worked for Jaguar at Brown's Lane with Red Robbo in the '70's. Some of the stories were quite hair raising if you had any affection for British design, craftsmanship, and manufacture. The lack of investment was a direct result of union intransigence. It affected Meriden just as much as Coventry.

[@Uts9000]

Paul, a ball bearing of most any size near the original will probably work just fine in the clutch lever assy. You must have several old bearings in a box. I know I do just for this reason.......Premature.....I should have waited to watch the entire episode

[@paulbrodie]

Mitch to the rescue!

[@rickfazzini22]

If it ain't one thing it's another lol I'm sure what ever you come up with will work out just fine. I wouldn't imagine those rocker arm shaft could have much oil pressure against them, I'm betting they don't leak. Good work guy's

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Rick.

[@whalesong999]

Oh, the games they are playing with shipping. That little felt 'seal' could be easily sent in a simple envelope with minimal postage. I suppose a stack of some thinner felt sections would do the job and you can find that at a craft store or such. I recall Triumph push rod tubes had some finicky fitting with rubber seals to prevent oil seepage, hope you find out the cause of the clearance issues.

[@paulbrodie]

Postage from the USA up to Canada really has become expensive!

[@alexball5907]

They're £2.50 on UK eBay.

[@rotax636nut5]

Copper is annealed from the heating not from the quenching Paul, quenching is just an easy way to remove the oxides from the metal surface leaving the gasket clean

[@UncySpam]

Been binging my way through your vids since I found your channel a few weeks ago. Really enjoying what you’re doing. Mitch, your videography skills are excellent. And you find parts too; a man of many talents 😁

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, kudos to Mitch! Peter, thanks for watching.

[@jonofalltradesmasterofnone832]

You are right it is a semi circular woodruff key it is semicircular so it can be used on tapers as it self seats.

[@tomthompson7400]

Mighty Mitch to the rescue ,,,, The Lone Ranger had Tonto , even Tarzan had Cheeta ,,, but Paul has Might Mitch ,,, what a great combo. Sort of like Abbott and Costello , with spanners.

[@paulbrodie]

Teamwork for sure!

[@arnsberg2150]

Push rod tube will be correct. Remove top & bottom gasket and fit head measure the clearance between the head and tube . Still use bottom rubber gasket put a slight champher on the rubber. Measure the top clearance for a gasket size.

[@paulbrodie]

Pushrod tube was not correct. Next video I make a new, custom tube that is 3/16" shorter...

[@arnsberg2150]

Hi Paul, Always a first with Brit bikes. Have built many cubs & not had any problems swapping parts, oval barrels and heads to square barrels and heads And found push rod tubes interchangeable part number for both e3537. Enjoying the build and look forward to the custom tube .

[@improvsax]

When I saw you sit the little ball bearing on the vise- I was thinking ‘if I did that I would promptly knock it on the floor and loose it’. But of course you are a lot more organized than I am. I like using ‘Gaskgacinch’ to hold gaskets in place. Been using it for decades. (But of course everyone has their favorites). I was taught in the 70s to put rings in dry- really helps them seat, with just a little on the cylinder wall. But I don’t do that if the engine is going to be sitting for any length of time before I start it. I do what you did. Worked quite well with the Benelli 750 sei engine I did last winter/spring.

[@TheOldaz1]

Nice work, you made the pushrods look easy. New subscriber.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for subscribing :)

[@rantanplan7474]

We better have a video of you riding that motorcycle at the end of all of this! ;)

[@paulbrodie]

I see!

[@munawarkamal2640]

Thanks

[@bradley3549]

I agree that a wrist pin retaining circlip coming loose is a bad day for any engine. My one 'whoopsie' was in a Subaru. For those unfamiliar, on a Subaru (and Porsche if you're fancier than me), you install the wrist pins through the side of the block down a reasonably deep and dark hole. First, this means you can't see very well. But more importantly, if a wrist pin does come loose, and that pin walks, instead of just scraping up your bore it eventually catches in that access hole in the side of the sleeve and absolutely grenades the piston, wrist pin, head and sleeve. Total loss situation. So check those wrist pin circlips!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, check those wrist pin circlips!

[@WTF.416]

Use F1 felt you can buy or request a sample bag for different thicknesses and if you have a diameter punch set you can make your own. I think they are in Mississauga, Ontario

[@jaratt85]

I think those engines would be a perfect case where running a belt drive might actually be a good idea.. First of all it'd be less chance of breaking the case if anything goes wrong, secondly it'd lower the amount of parasitic loss and on a low power engine every bit of power you can free up makes a huge difference. A tip for keeping the keepers in place (that I can't believe no one ever taught you) dab a little bit of grease on the inside of them and they'll stick to the valve and stay where you put them. I've never seen those big seals on a Triumph pushrod tube before, all I've seen is an O ring or just putting a little bit of RTV around the tube and it sinking into the head and case.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, a little bit of grease would hold the keepers in place. Thanks.

[@dogphlap6749]

5/32" (3.97mm) is a common size for push bikes. While modifying an indicator switch from my motorcycle last week I managed to drop one of the 2 it started out with (I heard it hit the tiled floor but I never saw it again). A quick visit to a local push bike shop got me ten for a dollar. eBay also has many Chinese suppliers of both stainless steel and hard carbon steel 5/32" balls.

[@pcarey36]

Just a kind suggestion to be checking piston to cylinder wall clearance with cylinder installed in torque plates. Should also be doing any machine and hone work within them. This replicates the "installed" setup. Cylinder walls can deform quite a bit when fully torqued. Tjis could make your fitment out of specification. That goes for piston ring end gaps as well. Keep making these videos, they're great.

[@paulbrodie]

I've built quite a few engines; never had or used torque plates. This is not a race motor, I'll be cruising my local farm roads. Thanks for liking our videos.

[@pcarey36]

@@paulbrodie I see. I guess I'm too institutionalized with Harley procedures. There are "essential" tool packages that come from the mothership every year, requested or not, that contain such devices. Usually accompanied with an HD-xxxxx nomenclature as a specialty tool. They used to be manufactured by Kent-Moore, though now I believe Bosch is our tool supplier. Anyway, the aftermarket also contains a multitude of torque plates even for entirely cast iron (not sleeved) cylinders such as a Shovelhead, or Panhead. Interestingly they don't even have studs that go through the entirety of the cylinder. 5 bolts for the head and 4 nuts that sit on truncated studs in the case. Nonetheless, you can measure a change in diameter when installed vs. not. Who knows really? Procedures change all the time and I am a firm believer in that there is no one right way to accomplish a task. Cheers.

[@paulbrodie]

@@pcarey36 I agree. There's usually another way to make it work, whatever it is.

[@johnmartin6050]

To install the rocker shaft o rings without slicing a piece off, is to use a spacer over the shaft opening with an internal taper that compresses the oil seal as it slides into the head. Shouldn't you also be heating the head to get the rocker shafts in easier?

[@jeffgreenrgv]

Yep, there’s one for the twin cylinder engine, probably is the same tool for the single!

[@notwocdivad]

Never had a cub myself but a friend had one for a number of years, I was sure the clutch had a plane plate then cork plate alternating? It looked like you were fitting cork to cork plates? Or have I not seen it correctly? My friend blew the big end so often by riding to fast that he could replace one in a couple of hours! Then he bought a better set from Alpha bearings in the UK which lasted til he sold it! Did you know the BSA 250 C15 was modelled on the Cub engine but with the cylinder sitting upright? We in the UK call what you call the wrist pin, the little end! Big end at the bottom little end at the top of the conrod!

[@paulbrodie]

It's always cork / steel / cork. Thanks for watching and commenting 😉

[@TheMobileBoatwright]

Woodruff Key, You are Correct Sir!! ;-)

[@paulbrodie]

😁 thanks.

[@mikeheath6516]

Hi Paul rather than hunt round for a 5/52 all bearing you could just use a 4mm BB which is only 1 1/2 thou larger. Great show 🙂

[@paulbrodie]

Mitch found one! It was 5/32", not 5/52".

[@dennisyoung4631]

Trouble is that “BB” are not hardened, unlike ball bearings.

[@mikeheath6516]

@@paulbrodie Typo, my bad.

[@bendavanza]

On the rocker shaft O ring, there is a special tool. It’s a small tube with a slightly tapered bore that compresses the O ring as it approaches the bore of the head. Alternately you could cut a small chamfer on the rocker shaft bore to prevent the O ring from getting sliced.

[@paulbrodie]

I did make a chamfer where the o-ring enters. If they leak, I will make a special tool.

[@wackowacko8931]

Regarding the torque settings on the tiger cub fasteners - torquing a bolt stretches it a certain amount, this stretch prevents the fastener from backing off in operation in addition to providing a clamping load. Since the fasteners are steel and the case is aluminum, you will pull the threads out of the aluminum case before you stretch the fasteners enough to torque them properly. This is most likely why there are no torque specifications for your bike. Japan bikes of this era use lock washers on every fastener to avoid having fasteners back off. I don't know what mechanism the tiger cub originally used, maybe they assumed that the bike would wear out before that happened. In this application using a very moderate tightening of the fastener - plus blue locktite - is a sufficient method to retain the fasteners.

[@paulbrodie]

The Tiger Cub Bible does have some torque settings, it has been pointed out to me.

[@markmetzger5430]

Another awesome video Paul. The charges for shipping by that Ebay seller is criminal. I live in Nebraska and have just received some sealing washers from a gentleman in Alberta and he charged me $2.00 for normal post as they fit in a letter sized envelope. Thanks for the Loctite 574 gasket maker suggestion, I am going to now put this in use. Good day to you and Mitch :))

[@paulbrodie]

I contacted the seller right away. He said either I was confused, or it was a glitch with Ebay. I don't think I was confused...

[@busatrx850]

If you push the rings down into the bore with the piston skirt you know the rings are perfectly square to the bore.

[@paulbrodie]

True.

[@busatrx850]

@@paulbrodie. Hope all is well Paul. Missing your entertaining content

[@paulbrodie]

@@busatrx850 If you're lucky we may have a video out next week.

[@oldcatmech]

I would have chamfered the hole to start the o-ring, or made a tool that had a gradual chamfer to get the o-ring down to the size of the hole it was going in, have done this in the past it helps! On the push tube, you took .055 off the head height, that would have lowered the head distance to the block!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for the tip...

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

OMG! as we said last video, how crude everything is! YUCK- anyways, is there any chance those thick-assed gaskets top and bottom are too girthy? or possibly the bottom one gets shoved down into a recess in the main-case? - IDK about this thing my friend? Ducati Singles have such a nicer Tube on the side (for the Towershaft)

[@paulbrodie]

Spoiler: next video Cub motor get's a custom 6061 pushrod tube so that everything actually fits!

[@johnpublic168]

Bevel the entry for the rocker shaft

[@paulbrodie]

I did. The o-rings are not a Triumph part, and could be slightly too thick.

[@bendavanza]

British Cycle Supply has a Canadian warehouse. Have you checked with them on Cub parts?

[@paulbrodie]

I have not. All I'm missing now is the fibre washer...

[@neillambton4065]

Could it be possible that, knowing how they changed things continuously, there are different push rods and tubes for different engines?. Absolutely love the video`s Paul, have been following your builds for quite a while now, very interesting stuff, and i`m really impressed with the home built mods you`ve don.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Neil. Yes, there are 3 different pushrod tubes, I have read. I don't know if the lengths were any different..

[@georgeross9834]

Woodruff key is correct

[@matterwin2851]

A drum cymbal stand felt (washer) just may be the size you looking for. Maybe worth a try.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes! Someone else suggested that too. I will check.

[@curtisvonepp4335]

You might find a car battery felt washer might Work 🤔

[@wanmuhammadfakhrullahwan8078]

Hello...👍👍😁😁

[@alanhoughton3252]

Hi Paul Find yer self a dead Trilby in your local charity shop loads o felt there!

[@jimurrata6785]

Ok Paul, I waited.... 😉 So a block isn't as elegant as a bespoke spanner... But it _IS_ a far sight better than the field expedient of wadding up a bunch of chain around the sprocket and into the case recess! 😅

[@paulbrodie]

You are correct :)

[@jimurrata6785]

@@paulbrodie You got a chance to make a clutch hub tool anyhow. 😉

[@stilltwisted1]

music shops that carry drums and cymbals tend to have a few choices of felt washers like the one your looking for.

[@WireWeHere]

Was "2 bolts on top" a nutty test?

[@davidminarik1210]

If you have a drum shop or music shop near you, they sell felt. I'm guessing a Hi-Hat clutch felt might work for you.

[@paulbrodie]

That's a good idea. Thanks!

[@chuckp8705]

Watching the head on go on makes me wonder how they did the pushrod tube at the factory. Special tool or something? Or Nigel, who was just really good at it?

[@leaflee2066]

When the cost of a new worker is less than personal protective equipment.

[@paulbrodie]

And how does this relate to the video?

[@leaflee2066]

@@paulbrodie Hi Paul, my mistake, I tend to watch a few videos when I get in late from work and I often have a few tabs open. I just commented on the wrong video. On the flip side there will be an Indian business who has their employees casting aluminium in their bare feet wondering why I think their Tiger Cub engine rebuild is going great!

[@edpretty8344]

Hey, Paul. Not sure if anyone has mentioned an O ring supply. Grizzly Supply on 96th just east of 192 on the north side will be able to supply any O ring you need. Take in the dimensions or, better yet, the part(s) and they will fix you up.

[@paulbrodie]

I wonder what their minimum order is?

[@edpretty8344]

@@paulbrodie I don't think thee is a minimum order. I got a few and the bill as under $20. They fixed me up right away.

[@johnburgess9185]

Hi paul just started waching your videos very good I live in ireland and you can not find tiger cubs

[@paulbrodie]

John, thanks for watching. If you look hard enough, you will find one. I swear!

[@randleroberts7562]

You might want to double check that clutch hub. A little hard to see but the ball bearings in the chain wheel ride on the clutch hub and that area looks grooved and pitted. Mine was the same way. Should be flat and smooth. NOS clutch hubs are not too hard to find.

[@paulbrodie]

I will check, thanks.

[@jimanderson4981]

21:58- if you have the proper O rings, you still need to make an installation sleeve out of thin but ridged cellophane like material.

[@paulbrodie]

I could use Delrin! First we'll find out if they leak...

[@jimurrata6785]

Rocker shafts _always_ leak for me! (weep, at least)

[@roberymcgoff1904]

I found that if you take a half round file n put a little bevel on the edge of the hole. And a little grease on the o- ring. They will slip in nicely.

[@paulbrodie]

I did chamfer the hole with a countersink, and use some lube, but the o-rings probably had an OD that was too big, because the (two) gasket sets I bought did not come with the correct rocker shaft o-rings.

[@roberymcgoff1904]

@@paulbrodie I probably learned that trick from you now that I think about it. Motor looking good. RMM

[@paulbrodie]

@@roberymcgoff1904 Thanks!

[@pyromaniac1207]

What's going on with the two forks in the background around @16:30? Great video as always!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you. I built those forks recently for a couple of friends.

[@andyZ3500s]

5/32 sounds like the front bearing size of the old Campagnolo front hubs -- road or track. What kind of old bike mechanic doesn't have one of those laying around lol.

[@paulbrodie]

Never had a Campy front hub, not that I can recall. Anyway, Mitch found a bearing, so all is good :)

[@gornzilla]

I know a guy with a ton of these that he has mostly abandoned in a trailer somewhere. They were part of a deal and he's not interested because they're Cubs. He said he knows a guy who used to be a dealer or distributor who was forced into buying a ton of Cubs to get what he wanted. Apparently he took the ones he couldn't sell, dug a pit, and paved over them for his driveway. No idea if that story is true or not.

[@paulbrodie]

Strange story!

[@giorgioterzoni704]

Complimenti assemblaggio molto accurato e meticoloso Mi presento sono un collezionista e restauro moto d'epoca Italiane ed Europee 👍ciao

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you :)

[@larrypalmer7136]

It's been a long time since I assembled a Tiger Cub but in my mind the bottom gasket is too thick by half and both gaskets compress a lot as the head is tightened. What happens if you dry fit the head with no push rods and no gaskets?

[@paulbrodie]

Stock pushrod tubes aren't made well. We got it all figured out, and the Cub gets a custom 6061 pushrod tube next video...

[@WTF.416]

You should soak your clutch frictions in your transmission oil in sandblaster steals.

[@morrisonaj]

When I was a kid and rode bicycles I was told the pin that held the pedal crank onto the spindle was called a cotter pin. It was a short piece of rod threaded on one end with a tapered flat machined on it. What you called a cotter pin I knew to be a split pin. So if a split pin is called a cotter pin what's the name of the other one?

[@paulbrodie]

They both must be cotter pins!

[@pbysome]

Correct.

[@goodwaterhikes]

😎✌️

[@donkeyha6053]

Was this the head that was machined for more compression or was that the race bike? Might be where the material dissappered?

[@paulbrodie]

The machined head was an Aermacchi. Two different bikes!

[@Andrew_Fernie]

How about making a 2-piece tube to ease assembly ?

[@paulbrodie]

If they leak, I will make a Delrin tube.

[@monikacognomen1096]

The pushrods seemed to seat with the too-long tube. I would assume they are also too long. I look forward to you machining a pair of those, I imagine that isn't particularly easy but I would be fascinated to see it done.

[@PK-mw7et]

Triumph tried a couple of different designs for the pushrod tubes over the years to address the problem of oil seepage at the joints. It looks like you have an incompatible cylinder head/pushrod tube combination. I had the same issues on my 650 Triumph TR6. Solved with tubes of the correct design. Still leaked, though!

[@paulbrodie]

Pushrod length is fine. Next video I machine a new pushrod tube that is 3/16" shorter.

[@monikacognomen1096]

@@paulbrodie No doubt you are correct, I was just using my common sense rather than any particular knowledge of this engine. Anyway, I'll enjoy watching you make a prettier piece than the stock bit of swaged pipe.

[@rantanplan7474]

You're smearing all your finger oils on that poor rotor Paul!

[@xpndblhero5170]

Hey, I think it's a good problem to have a tube that's too long rather than a tube that's too short..... 🙄🤣🤣

[@paulbrodie]

Next video: custom pushrod tube.

[@tomthompson7400]

When you tighten the bigger nuts on the shafts ,,, if you just make the same clicking noise with your tongue as you would to giddy up a horse ,,, they are bang on torque spec. it always works for me . : ]

[@paulbrodie]

I can make a "click" like a torque wrench..

[@tomthompson7400]

@@paulbrodie that's how I do it LOL .. those who know smile ... those who have no idea simply have no idea ... all they hear is woosh as it flyswatter over their head 🙂

[@gregm1457]

Calibrated elbow cracks at 60ft lbs ;) If I could hold a wrench in my feet I'd have somewhat lower settings provided by the knees lololol

[@stanleydenning]

That sure is a peculiar engine.

[@paulbrodie]

It's British! What can I say?

[@Patbike]

Will you keep the bike for yourself once it's done? Or is it for a customer/friend?

[@paulbrodie]

This is my bike!

[@alex4alexn]

can you run it outside the bike once it is put together or will it sit for a while, love the series!

[@paulbrodie]

I will put the engine into the frame, get everything hooked up, and then start it.

[@alex4alexn]

@@paulbrodie You are the man! Super excited for the next episodes, cheers!

[@dvddale111]

I imagine you tried loosening off the tappets before lowering the head?

[@paulbrodie]

You bet.

[@johnnyburgess211]

Dan Thorpe won the Scottish Pre65 trial on a Cub so modified he did not have a right hand side engine cover. Did you lap/grind in the valves to the seats?

[@paulbrodie]

New guides, valves, the seats were cut and the valves lapped in. Of course!

[@johnnyburgess211]

@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, just wanted to be sure.

[@GodfathersAdventures]

Washer. Call your local sign person and ask to buy a felt squeegee… it’s a square but close to the thickness .. cut it out and you have your washer. Godfather out!!!!

[@paulbrodie]

I will try a drum shop first.

[@GodfathersAdventures]

@@paulbrodie oh the top of the symbols ?

[@paulbrodie]

@@GodfathersAdventures I was told a hi-hat.

[@Jean-de-lune]

That was quite reminscent of re-assembling my Tiger Cub engine, although not to the extent you've gone in milling and lathing. I just wonder how the thing actually worked when I'd finished with it! Young and stupid at the time I suppose and as long as you don't make any fundamental errors it all seemed to work OK including bigger valves and bigger bore AMAL carburretor. It could do 90mph indicated (probably a deal less in reality), much to he chagrin of my pal who had a 250 AJS which could just keep up.

[@paulbrodie]

Some Cubs were fast... for a while!

[@1crazypj]

Are the push-rod tubes different diameters? I seem to remember some Triumphs had the top washer visible and some had it 'inside' the head cavity. The 'exterior' one always leaked, usually sooner than later. As for gasket 'goo', traditionally it was Red Hermatite until the 'Japanese' came out with non setting 'bonds' (Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawabond) I use Threebond 1104 as it appears the same as the others but is way cheaper (Suzukibond was about £30.00 in 1982, Threebond £11.00) Before I knew about it it was Blue Hylomar, (developed by Rolls Royce) It's important to use a non-setting sealer as if it breaks off and gets into oil passages it can easily destroy an engine (and why you don't use silicon sealers) I've seen lot of cams and cam bearings destroyed by 'liberal use' of silicon blocking oil pump pick up or oil ways.

[@paulbrodie]

My 6061 pushrod tube has a slightly larger OD. It seems to have settled into its new role quite well :) I would never use silicon to seal cases...

[@marksun.7861]

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