Tiger Cub Engine Assembly - Part 1 // Paul Brodie's Shop

[@johndeere1951a]

Mr Haynes and his son maybe a multi millionaires from publishing repair manuals, but there is never a substitute for factory repair manuals - no matter what make of car/bike your working on. Beautiful presentation. This should be the gold standard for Triumph Cub owners world wide . 🇨🇦🇬🇧🇺🇲

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you very much. Appreciate your comments!

[@TheOldaz1]

Nice to have the bits and pieces prepared and tested before you start actual assembly. Lots of work in the prep. Thanks Paul, binge watching your channel to catch up.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks 👍

[@donhuebert9151]

Thanks Paul and Mitch. Reminds me of a story from a few years ago. Some friends had rescued a Triumph Spitfire from a garage. They rebuilt the carbs and the ignition and I was there for the start-up. A little Sure-Start engine spray and it fired right up. Only problem was the LOUD hammering sound coming out of it. Turns out nobody thought to check the oil! First start in 20 years, dry as a bone. A few liters of oil fixed her right up. 10 years later and it is still going strong.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Don. Good story, great that the engine is still going strong!

[@1963corvette327]

Great Job as Always Mr Brodi, I Was So Inspired, I Picked Up A 07 Triumph Bonniville Black, Thank You Sir, Bé Well...

[@paulbrodie]

That's great. I have a soft spot for Triumphs. I am getting my 2nd Tiger Cub in the spring from a good friend of mine. Exciting! 😉

[@nova2fly209]

40 some yrs ago I got my first real motorcycle, it was a mid-60s cub. It needed a lot of doctoring. Armed with only a Hanes manual, a few of my pops wrenches that I grinded out to fit the Brit nuts n bolts (man, was pop ever so pissed!))) and barely no mechanical knowledge, I did manage to rebuild the motor. It was a blast to ride and ran great for many years. I never used locktite nor did I ever even heard of it. There was no ebay at the time, so I could rarely find parts and ended up making them or making fit parts from various other manufacturers... I must say I couldn't find an original gasket set and didn't realize you could buy gasket paper to make your own, so I ended up using Permitex's aviation form-a-gasket. I must say, over the many years of hard riding miles, never once did that little beast leak a single drop of oil ..now almost 50yrs later and after sitting for half that, I'm ready to go through it again....I just hope I can get the cases apart without beating the crap out of it))) Thank you for this video, Sir... your knowledge and expertise helps immensely

[@paulbrodie]

Great story! Thanks for sharing that. Especially when your Pop was pissed for you grinding the wrenches!

[@nova2fly209]

@@paulbrodie yeah, it's a good thing that I could run fast)))))) It's funny though, quite a bit years later, he stopped by my house to visit and caught me tinkering in the garage. We chatted for awhile, then he looked at the cub against the wall and asking if it was the same bike?.… After giving me a slight womp on the head he said "hey, that ugly old bike looks pretty good now...it was cool to see abit of pride come over his face especially, since I tormented him for my entire teenage yrs)))))

[@nova2fly209]

@@paulbrodie what I can do now is bcuz of people like him and you.. Thanks again, and I look forward to checking out all your videos

[@paulbrodie]

@@nova2fly209 Ah, Fathers and Sons!

[@Buzbikebklyn1]

Mr.Brodie, I was inspired by you and guys like Allen Millard to build my 2000cc dual Harley Davidson, Evo head, twin 4 cylinder engine. Yes,it ate the first transmission, I had to use a dragster tranny, the case machining and the crank itself was when I had to watch guys like you to keep on trying. Your attention to the details really got my attention. All I can say is carry on Sir! Great work!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Tom! That's great you are making stuff and figuring out all the details. I know it's not easy, but the satisfaction is hopefully worthwhile.

[@Buzbikebklyn1]

@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, you keep making videos ,I'll keep watching!

[@Buzbikebklyn1]

@@paulbrodie Oh, by the way, have you ever had Bustello coffee? I'm a coffe maven myself, I'll send along a pack

[@paulbrodie]

@@Buzbikebklyn1 Sounds like a deal.

[@Buzbikebklyn1]

@@paulbrodie sorry, but I don't have your post box or an address. A little help? and thanks again.

[@colinmartin2921]

Lovely video Paul. Hope you are well now.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Colin. I have passed the halfway point of my chemo.... 😉

[@Paul-FrancisB]

Hi Paul and Mitch, time for a video and coffee 😀☕

[@paulbrodie]

You bet!

[@jeffkeen6943]

As Paul reveals yet another talent...bicycles, motorcycles, musician and now oil painter...certainly a well rounded man!!! Oh, and he likes coffee...🙂

[@paulbrodie]

I was never any good at oil painting, but I still have my palette knife.

[@jeffkeen6943]

@@paulbrodie ...perhaps you should try your hand at sculpture...Michelangelo never had aluminium welding rod and a hot glue gun...

[@paulbrodie]

@@jeffkeen6943 I do sculpture. I create motorcycle parts :)

[@truethought369]

Paul I really like how you do things, it is so nice to see someone who knows what they are doing. I have used one of the best engine sealers ever made over the years, which was use on early Rolls Royse cars also it was used on the railways back in the steam days + they still use it today. I have found it to be very good for people who know that casings should always be smooth and flat. It is a British product like myself and is called "Welseal", it comes in a tube and looks like a brown liquid, always keep the tube upright when opening as it is a thin consistency. The wonderful about this product is that when it is applied to the surface of a casing it appears yellow in colour, if it is applied to thickly, it looks brown, so you can smooth it out until the colour is yellow as it should be! Great for paper gaskets or two very clean faces. You apply it on both faces and leave to go tacky, then it will stick and seal the two halves perfectly. If you want it, it should be on E-bay. Thank You, have a nice day.

[@paulbrodie]

Chris, thanks for watching and commenting.

[@Tonyv1951]

I enjoyed that. Way back in about 1972 I worked on and ruined one of these engines. A pal of mine had one and the mainshaft was knocking in the bush that supports it behind the clutch. I offered to replace the bush. The shaft that the clutch fastens to goes through a gear with a bush inside it, and that bush can wear and make noise. Here's my point. I very stupidly plastered the mating surfaces of the cases with red hermetite gasket cement in an attempt to stop the legendary oil leaks these engines used to have. I used far too much of it and when I returned the engine to my mate, he soon experienced big end failure. Later, I had the same result on my own C15 engine after plastering too much gasket goo (again - red hermetite ) on the casing where the base of the cylinder joins the crank case top. Big end failure within a few miles. I must have been a slow learner to do it twice, but eventually, the penny dropped. Since then, I have been EXTREMELY reluctant to use gasket cement. That stuff you scraped off on the outside, unless very carefully applied can bulge into the inner chambers and may come adrift and block narrow oilways in the crankshaft. I know I used more than you did in my inexperience, but I never want that kind of disaster again.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, I have heard about Red Hermetite and the problem of applying too much... Thanks for commenting and telling your stories :)

[@gerry343]

A British bike without an oil leak- you can do it, Paul!

[@anthonycarty9433]

Don't put any in . Prevention is better than cure . LOL .

[@paulbrodie]

It could be wishful thinking... we will find out!

[@ОлександрФедосєєв-ц3х]

Tiger tuned to Lion!) Thanks Mitch! Thanks Paul!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for watching!

[@leslieaustin151]

That all looked familiar from a long time ago... just the same as a BSA C15 gearbox, I think. And the joy of seeing you use a real Britool socket (not the French imitations of today). When I went for an apprenticeship as a motor mechanic (in a Vauxhall/Bedford (GM) garage) I bought a Britool socket set. It had to have both Unified and Whitworth/BSF sockets. £102, and pay back my employer at 10 shillings a week. Two years to buy your tools! Those were the days (so they say!!). I gave that socket set to my God-son when I retired, and its still in use. Enjoyed it Paul, thanks. And thanks to Mitch behind the camera. Les in UK

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Leslie. Yes, I have had some of my tools a long, long time!

[@improvsax]

I bought a number of Whitworth tools new from Proto- around 1974. They were readily avaliable then and I even got the ‘pro’ discount. Years later I sold them to a buddy that had a Norton or two, I think he still has them (he has an auto shop). I will have to say I have had no use for them since I sold them. But I have not had a British bike since mid-70s when I sold the 650 Matchless twin I bought in a basket (I did get it to run)

[@paulbrodie]

@@improvsax Whitworth tools are a must if you have a British bike. I bought a bunch of Proto stuff in 1973!

[@pashakdescilly7517]

The CeeFee design is derived from the Tiger Cub and Terrier before it. The gearbox is just the same. It's VERY important to put the gearbox selector quadrant's pivot pin in the right way round. One end is threaded for extraction. If you put it in the wrong way, you can't get it out again... Guess what I did....

[@paulbrodie]

@@pashakdescilly7517 I don't think one end is threaded on mine... but there is a groove that you can tap with a brass drift; that's what I do.

[@Alanbataar]

As always, thank you Paul & Mitch. That went about as smoothly as any transmission reassembly I've ever done, but I've also only done more modern Japanese & Italian bottom ends.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Alan.

[@davidstein792]

Another excellent video, Paul and Mitch. I appreciate your surgically clean environment and your patience to take the time to explain the process. Standing by in anticipation of the next episode. Thanks much.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you David. Surgically clean might be a bit of an exaggeration, but I do my best.

[@johnnymees5927]

The bush for the oil pump drive is held in place with the case screw , my cub is 1 down 3 up on the gears .

[@paulbrodie]

I think mine is 1 down three up, but it's been a while and my memory is not 100%!

[@billdyke9745]

Better than new, Paul. Much obliged.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Bill.

[@tonyalto1014]

Yes indeed, I've learned to love that Loctite Anaerobic Sealant for Marine, Motorcycle and Aircraft engine cases. Back in the old days if you had trouble like a gear out of mesh, you may have to clean and re-apply the sealant as you only had a minute or so before the sealer 'skinned' or started to dry. I've got my fingers crossed for you on the 'No-Drip' cub case! Great video.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you!

[@RumbleRoverTV]

Watching this videos is so relaxing!☺

[@xpndblhero5170]

Looking good already, I'm so excited to see this finished.... Thank you Paul and Mitch for the awesome video, great work guys. 👍

[@sreethampan]

Thank you for the video.

[@californiadreamin8423]

Fantastic. Now I have no excuse for rebuilding the Terrier basket case I bought 45 years ago for £40.

[@classicrestoration]

Cub shift patterns are all the same for post-war Triumphs…. One down, the rest up. As for oil tightness, it will probably weep a little from the shift shaft and the splines behind the sprocket. I like the sprocket door idea..🙂Nice work on the entire build👍🏼

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you.

[@robertholcomb6200]

Nice work as always.... glad to see it coming together! Assembly tests the mechanic's skills. Always! Keep them coming as I learn something from every episode. Learning is what I like to do, everyday. Thank you!

[@paulbrodie]

Robert, thanks for watching and commenting 👍

[@tiffinthyme5822]

Hello Paul, it’s interesting seeing all your efforts coming together as you have prepared everything so well. Your attention to detail will hopefully now pay dividends. I am looking forward to this all coming together, best wishes Kevin.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Kevin.

[@stevecarlisle3323]

Thanks for the Loctite product tip. I normally use the Red anarobic sealer on John Deere bell housings, but i have made up a alu conversion bell housing, so these products you use should be better. Again, you and your camera man make GREAT vids, dont stop. The problem now is I wish I never sold my Norton.

[@paulbrodie]

Steve, thanks for watching and commenting. You can always buy another Norton 🙂

[@andrewwasson6153]

Fantastic video Paul! Can’t wait for part II. My best friend, whom I have been riding motorcycles with and tinkering with mechanics with for the last 40 odd years sent me a link to your channel yesterday and I’ve gone down the Triumph rabbit hole since. I’m primarily a Suzuki motorbike guy but I have a high appreciation for all things mechanical and your channel ticks all of the boxes. Takes me right back to being 10 years old looking at all of the used bikes at the Suzuki Centre on Dunbar or the old Brit bikes at Tonka on Broadway.

[@paulbrodie]

That's amazing! I bought motorcycles from both of those shops. We must have lived very close.

[@andrewwasson6153]

@@paulbrodie we did live fairly close but I don’t think we crossed paths. I was at 35th & Crown. In the mid-70’s, I had a Gemini 2-stroke mini bike that came in a box of parts. It was missing the shifting mechanism and somehow the guys at the Suzuki Centre managed to find the parts and assembled the missing pieces. Many years later I bought a used GT750 (2-stroke triple) from Tonka but I clearly remember the cache of BSA singles they had in one of the adjoining rooms. I thought it would have been fun to have a racing class for them up at Westwood. My dad was big in English cars (Austins, MG’s). He built several cars in our garage. I’m pretty sure I have his British wrenches and sockets in a storage locker. If I can find them, I’ll send them out your way.

[@paulbrodie]

@@andrewwasson6153 I lived at 19th and Wallace. We used to ride at the Horse Stables, 33rd and Camosun, sometimes. I have already had a couple of people donate Whitworth wrenches and sockets. Your offer is appreciated!

[@philmuskett265]

Precision personified. Unlike me and my mates when we were young fellas, you didn't have a bucketful of bits left over!!!!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Phil. Not quite right about the bits, though. I started with four engines, took them all apart, and used the best parts to make one good one, hopefully. I have LOTS of bits left over...

[@janetmuskett3210]

@@paulbrodie You're spot on; but we used to start with one engine and had enough bits left over to building another three!!!! Not the most successful of teenage mechanics!!!!

[@paulbrodie]

@@janetmuskett3210 When I was a teenager I ruined several motorcycles learning to work on them.

[@jamest.5001]

Heck I have had to make an emergency repair, I didn't have any gasket maker, all I had was cheap thread locker that came with ceiling fans, so I used that , nice and thick, it worked, no leak!

[@michaelfirth1075]

Still enjoying the videos PAUL, KEEP THEM COMING.

[@paulbrodie]

Really? That's great news. Thanks for watching!

[@MotoDeSoto]

Oh happy day! 😎

[@johnpublic168]

Wonderful pre prep makes for great assembly

[@chrispavlou6602]

that was an interesting gearshifting mechanism! all the parts look like they are pretty well restored, I am sure it will run smoothly!

[@paulbrodie]

Really, I only cleaned the parts. I would not say they are "restored". I hope it works too!

[@BokorRider]

my first engine rebuild..and modified.. was a 998cc Mini engine... would hardly turn over despite me using the Haynes manual ...the village got me to take the motor back out and once we discovered I'd put a big end shell bearing in the wrong way...he cleaned of the burrs with a scraper made from an old file the engine was a flyer for 10,000 miles... then the crank snapped...but the motor only cost 15 UK pounds...piper 275 cam, 998 cooper head single big SU , 2 inch ex-rally car exhaust ....when minis where cheap and fun

[@quartfeira]

Thank you Paul it's a pleasure, as always. I've been working on my Piaggio today (stripping old paint and repainting) so watching the video was a delightful way to end my day 😊✌️

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you. Hope your Piaggio ends up beautiful.

[@goodwaterhikes]

Nice working on a clean motor 😂😎✌️

[@paulbrodie]

You bet. Thanks for watching!

[@gordonhenagar6652]

looks like you had it all ready to fit together, came out fine.

[@fvillago65]

Nice job! On reciprocating aircraft engines like a Lycoming or Continental you lay a thin strand of silk string in the sealant between the engine case halves to help with sealing. I believe that the correct term for hand torque is "tech torque", after more than 30 years experience I now have a calibrated wrist.

[@paulbrodie]

Fred, that's so cool you have a calibrated wrist! Someone else mentioned a strand of silk, so it must be a "thing". Thanks for commenting.

[@tommytom2065]

Bravo Paolo bel montaggio di blocco motore con fasi del camme con serramento viti e bulloni (con dinamometrica di a braccio come i maestri quando io ero bambino ..che bei ricordi grazie Paolo 👍🥰

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for watching!

[@Jinxid77]

Enjoyed the video as always :) The relief of the 4th gear clicking in! Wonderful grin. :D

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks so much.

[@alanpattrick6464]

Hi Paul. Thanks for the video, its really helpful to see all your tips on engine assembly. I’m at a similar stage with my Cub engine. The gears are one down and three up. Well, they are on mine! Regards, Alan

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Alan. Yes, I assumed one up, and now I am told one down and three up. Me and my assumptions...

[@johnwhite4934]

Hi Paul, I am really enjoying the Cub build, I am a Terrier man and halfway through the same process. Torque setting are listed on page 176 of Mike Estall’s superb Tiger Cub Bible - I think you are a fan of the book. Thumbs up to Mitch, between the two of both you manage to entertain and inform, a hard trick to get right every time as you consistently do! Well done and best wishes from Wales. John

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks John. Yes, I have that book and looked on page 176. I figured 30-35 ft/lbs for those 2 nuts, so I was close. Yes, Mitch and I are a good team!

[@melclark1066]

Love the Pallet knife. It's been one of my favourite tools for 40 years. Torque figures for most bolts are available on Google - better than guessing. I still have most of a Whitworth socket set (was my Grandfathers), strangely it includes a set of of eight point sockets, which have come in handy a few times. An interesting little engine - Huge flywheel, tiny mainshafts, bronze bush bearings, - looking at it today, you wonder what they were thinking, but then hindsight is a wonderful thing. Love the standard of work you do- excellent.😊.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Mel :)

[@zenpro8164]

hey Paul, great job as always my friend, if its any consulation when you dont have a torque wrench, when dealing with aluminum cases, once you have it snugged, an 1/8-1/4 turn is sufficient which comes out to approx 12inch lbs, been building motorbike engines for decades and hopefull this helps for your future builds...great job again, looking forward to your topend assembly :)

[@wheater5]

Very good to watch, as always! The finish on those engine cases indicates that a large amount lot of off-camera work has been done to smooth them to perfection. This will no doubt be one of the nicest looking Cubs out there. BTW, I had a similar BSA C15 250 as my first bike in 1971, it was "one down three up" gears for that. I've altered my old RE Bullet gear change pattern so it's is now like that, too.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you. Yes, I see that I made an "assumption" that because it was British it was one up and three down, wrong again. It has been 50 years since I rode my previous Cub 50 years ago... The cases did take quite a bit of time, off camera. They're not perfect at all, but from a few feet away, nice.

[@Peter57808]

On alloy metal to metal surfaces I get great results from Yamabond 4, it does not set hard so it can flex with temperature changes and is easily removed when you need to.

[@jaratt85]

When you had that thing all apart I would've gone ahead and made patterns for the gaskets/made some gaskets out of gasket paper. From there adding a thin film of RTV or that spray gasket adhesive stuff would've sealed up the bottom end just fine. A lot of people hate RTV these days but it really has it's uses if you don't just put a massive glob of it on and let it get into places it shouldn't be. I'd think adding some assembly lube into the oil pump and on the gears would've been useful too, just to make sure everything was well lubed before that initial startup. It'll thin out quickly and come out in the first oil change. I'd also lubricate the crank before putting it through the bearings.. An unlubed shaft is never good. :P

[@paulbrodie]

I don't get excited about making gaskets. I'd rather buy them. In the video I did say I was doing a mockup build and that the engine would be coming apart, for a few details, including lubing the cam and other parts.

[@alanstockley391]

Well done Paul 👍🇬🇧

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Alan.

[@MegaTubescreamer]

EXCELLENT JOB !! talk about grace under pressure Paul, mitch didn`t need the riot shield to film behind and no earplugs ,,,😄👍👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks William. It is a learning experience putting together a 57 year old British motorcycle engine.

[@michaelrandle4128]

It’s going to run like a dream Paul,

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks. I hope so :)

[@hrxy1]

very informative vid, I enjoyed the anecdotes on your teenage days building engines, outstanding camerawork

[@paulbrodie]

That Mitch! He is good...

[@retromotors383]

I'm really enjoying watching your Cub go together. I have to disagree, though, on the shift pattern. All the Triumphs that I ever messed with were down for first, up for the rest. One of my buddies back in the day rode a pre-unit construction 650 BSA, and if I recall correctly it shifted up, down-down-down. At one point I rode a Triumph T110 on the street and raced an Italian Parilla 250 on scrambles and flat track. The two machines not only shifted on opposite sides, but in opposite directions! Suffice to say during the heat of battle, the poor Parilla saw a few unauthorized ventures into the higher RPM ranges. Nothing like a full throttle power shift from third to second! Fortunately the high mounted camshaft / short pushrod valve gear enabled the engine to survive.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, one down and three up. I was wrong. I assumed, wrongly. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@hotoilhands]

Great video Paul. Engine assembly videos are a favourite of mine. And nice job to Mitch, the angles and lighting was great.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you so much.

[@arnoklocke3003]

Hey just wanted to send you some love from France ! Love ur vids :)

[@paulbrodie]

Hello France! Thanks for watching :)

[@michaelmathews295]

When you installed the oil pump gear bushing you mentioned that you didn't know what held it into the case. The bushing had a groove in it and looks like 1 of 2 holes might line up with the groove to located it. 1 is small like a roll pin might go into it and the other looks like one of the shifter cover bolts might line up with that groove also.

[@paulbrodie]

I did figure it out, but that was so many months ago I can't exactly remember what the solution was. Thanks for watching!

[@mashooqbughio]

Hi dear, I like the way your work on motors indeed finest work, I have checked since your previous video that the method is same I work on cub motor, I have intalled electronic ignition in my cub that is not particular Brit bike electronic ignition but I have installed in my way and that video is available on my channel and now I am working on rotory oil pump to fix in cub motor, I have designed it further equipments also, although I like your work absolutely.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for liking our videos. That's great that you also have a Cub, and are spending time to make it "right".. Good luck with your Project!

[@mattinhessen7148]

Top job gents

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Matt.

[@derekgee8504]

Been waiting for the assembling , very interesting thank you

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Derek.

[@roberthoffmann6603]

I enjoy your Videos i can feel that you Love what you do. Thanks. Greetings from Vienna

[@paulbrodie]

Hello Vienna! Thanks for watching.

[@whalesong999]

I took notice of how the internals all slipped together as you progressed. Most engines I worked on (never a Cub in the bunch) required an assembly "puller" to squeeze the cases together. Bultaco engines caused a person to wince and in both pulling apart and reassembling, the stress and noise of the bearings being forced home. All ended well enough but not something I'd enjoy doing every day. Good luck on the case sealing, I hope it's as oil tight as you want.

[@paulbrodie]

It seems that Cubs are made with loose tolerances. Aermacchis, on the other hand, have to be pressed together and pulled apart.

[@dermotkelly2971]

Good job! You just have to have a go even though you did it before.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Dermot. This is my first time completely assembling a Cub motor.. 50 years ago I worked on the transmission and cylinder barrel, that's all.

[@leighharron]

Great stuff 👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks!

[@tomtruesdale6901]

Something I have heard of but have never done myself is to place a piece of thin silk thread in the gasket goo all around the piece before putting to two case halves together. It is supposed to prevent oil weeping.

[@paulbrodie]

I have heard about using a silk thread, but have never done anything like that myself.

[@chester5893]

Hi Paul, I've got a 1966 Bantam Cub and i'm having problems with the gearbox. Rotating the rear wheel i can get all 4 gears up and down. However when riding the bike it will change up fine from 1st and go down from 4th to 3rd but then the gear lever is solid, it will go back up to 4th but doesn't want to change down from 3rd to 2nd ! Back in the workshop i can still change all of the gears up and down by hand. I have replaced the selector return spring and the plungers entering the camplate are fine. I can't find any excessive wear in any of the other components in the box ! Iain

[@paulbrodie]

Solving transmission glitches is not easy. When I was much younger I owned a Honda CB450 that would jump out of 1st gear when starting out. Very annoying. I took it apart, everything looked fine, but I bought new shifter forks anyway. It still jumped out of first. I took it apart again, bought some more parts, put it back together, and it still jumped out of first. I solved the problem by trading it in on a Honda CB750. Get another Cub transmission, and try that. That's my recommendation.

[@dvddale111]

It's actually easier to put the two gear shafts, selectors and selector shaft all in together as one unit. I like to run a tap down all the ally casing threads also, it's amazing how much rubbish will come out, old gasket cement, even all machinings from when factory put original threads in it appears. One down three up!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, I did run a tap down all the case threads. You are correct about the shift pattern. I made an assumption, and I was wrong.

[@mcjok88]

Thanks

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you.

[@markfoggy9933]

When you don't have torques for fasteners, there is a rule of thumb. If you think about spanner length for each size, it will act as a guide. This did not relate in Whitworth days, but does equate right through A/F and metric. The torque that you should be applying is the same hand pressure towards the end of any typical spanner. It's probably less than you think. The same works with Allen keys. obviously when you start using sockets, this could go out of the window, but if you think about how you are holding the driver, experience will be your friend. Paul had a shoulder bolt to play with there, so the hex on the end would not be regular to the thread that was on the end. So a touch of common sense and you'll be Golden.

[@paulbrodie]

I like to believe I have some common sense :)

[@markfoggy9933]

@@paulbrodie For other people.

[@yesjohnny01]

A 'Little bit of a struggle' seems like a great result!

[@paulbrodie]

When it starts and runs, that's when we'll know for sure!

[@yesjohnny01]

@@paulbrodie When it starts and runs it will be worth the struggle.

[@paulbrodie]

@@yesjohnny01 I don't think of it as a struggle. It is a labour of love. No regrets.

[@danielmaynard5044]

Nothing like getting the old bike back on the road!!

[@secorski]

Paul, I recall when I split the cases on my Trident, there were remnants of the reddish Wellseal on the mating faces. When reassembling, I felt I needed to keep it "to style" and used the same. It's the popular suggestion through the Triples group. Take care, gents! 🤘

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, that reddish look of the sealant really was part of the "look" of a British bike.

[@alanmony1582]

Paul, when I worked as a Field Service Engineer in the marine propulsion industry I carried a giant tube of Loctite 574 with me. That case won't leak but you're going to have a struggle splitting it apart when the time comes.

[@paulbrodie]

I have used that gasket sealer for 15 years. It is not hard to get the cases apart, and the sealer scrapes off very easily.

[@westho7314]

I know that Cub engine will sound as good as it looks, just love that sound & simplicity. was my first moto back in the late 60's & aside from a couple pre- war American & Euro bikes ive had, the Cub is the only bike i wish i had kept & i'm still looking for the right one for my daily scooting about.

[@paulbrodie]

I had a Cub when I was 15 and that's why I have one now.

[@waldi2302]

Paul Brodie: Palette Knife Alan Milliyard: Swiss Army Knife I am : Standing on my work bensh with millions of tools and I need still 99 atempts to make a seal or a gasket.

[@paulbrodie]

Jorg, thanks for watching!

[@waldi2302]

@@paulbrodie thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@dennisyoung4631]

I had heard tales of Red Loctite, so I secured some Vibra-tite for the bikes. It keeps bolts and screws *in,* and causes much less cussing upon (the inevitable) removal.

[@glenpiro313]

Not perfectly smooth Paul, sure, but good god man Ill take your version of not perfectly smooth any day!!! I just ordered some of that LocTite goo and accompanying spray, a big change over my go to Yamabond, but it definitely looks superior. Having finished up my YZ100 and waiting on some rims from Buchanons, Im about to split a 1978 RM80 mill. This episode (as usual!!!) has given me a few more TTPs to utilize on the rebuild! Thank you, and Mitch your camera work just keeps getting better.

[@paulbrodie]

It wouldn't be honest if we edited out the hiccups and made it look like the "perfect" assembly job. I think you will like that Loctite sealer. Works for me!

[@pbysome]

I use wellseal, a bit messy but seals well and comes apart easy.

[@giorgioterzoni704]

👍Bravo molto interessante 👏👏👏

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you.

[@paulg3336]

4:32 LOCTITE SF 7649 : 94% acetone 3% 2-Ethylhexanoic acid 3% 2-ethylhexanoic acid, copper salt The carboxylic acid and it's salt are polymerisation catalysts , the acetone is just a carrier for the catalysts plus it degreases the part

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for that. I didn't think it was just acetone. There had to be some chemical process involved.

[@martinquirke3262]

Beautiful bike, and great work. One question, gear pattern? I thought cubs were 'up for up and down for down'. Checking the cub owners manual it has ''Press down to change to a lower gear or pull up to change to a higher gear.'

[@whalesong999]

Yes, I noticed that too. Triumph pattern was down for low and up for the rest; BSA was up for low, down for the rest. At the moment, not recalling the last BSA singles - whew, long time ago.

[@paulbrodie]

Well, I could be wrong. It has been 50 years. I "assumed" it was up for first...

[@joereedmusic9853]

I use to use silk thread to seal the two case half’s instead of a gasket. If the two case half’s have been lapped it works very well on BSA’s.

[@paulbrodie]

Have not heard of the silk thread sealing trick!

[@joereedmusic9853]

@@paulbrodie It does work very well. But the surfaces must be level with each other and you use just a very thin film of grease to hold the thread in place when doing the assembly.

[@e3repair959]

I was just watching your video and if you look at 9:42 im fairly certain your oil pump gasket is installed backwards may not affect anything bit I didnt see it posted in the comment section anywhere. Otherwise amazing job from where I'm standing. Your videos never fail to impress.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you. I did try the gasket a couple of ways, and this is what looked best to my eyes... On the right side cover gasket, I couldn't even get the holes to line up the gasket was so poorly made.

[@christophercullen1236]

Paul when I have a unknown toque setting I use ARP toque chart and use some experience for the application. Christopher from Down Under

[@paulbrodie]

After all these years I have a pretty good sense of torque. Someone else said that their arm was calibrated...

[@donsipes]

Thanks guys

[@paulbrodie]

Our pleasure!

[@Metal-Possum]

English motors never leak oil... :P My father was a mechanic and had plenty of experience with them, anything from vintage Bedford buses to fairly modern Jaguars, they all suffered the same problem. The only reason he ended up buying a Bedford bus in recent years was because it had a Japanese Isuzu engine in it.

[@bertrandlussier8150]

I understand your love for this bike but i much prefer the engineering of my Honda cb77! Good work!!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, the Japanese machinery has better engineering, but the little Cub has style and charisma!

[@sidwainhouse]

I was shown to run an oil stone over the cases and use Hylomar blue, never had one leak using that method. You got Lucky with the gears, normally takes me three attempts with lots of swearing... 🤣

[@paulbrodie]

I try not to swear, at least not on camera..

[@Eezyriderr1]

When I can't find recommended torque specs, always use "German torque", or more accurately, "güten-tight". (usually works)

[@paulbrodie]

Humour!

[@steveyoung5520]

Hey Paul, any plans for a video of the Aermacchi lower end assembly, or are you already done with that?

[@paulbrodie]

Steve, yes, the Aermacchi build will happen after the Tiger Cub is out of the way.

[@davidervin7345]

It was said that the British wanted to make computers, but they couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil (should have enlisted the help of the Prince of Darkness). As to some motorcycles: if there is no oil under it, there is no oil IN it.

[@davidervin7345]

@Alfred Wedmore So, I didn't know about the British computers...it's just an old motorcycle joke. As to advanced designs...well, to each their own. The Brit bikes were lighter and were a better fit for new riders; the better roads of the post-war era no longer required tanks. Harleys, since '37 (I think), were all dry sump. Many complain of vibrating Harleys (they don't vibrate...they quiver) but any V-twin can be balanced to a greater degree than any single or parallel twin (of equal size). In fact Harleys were noted for their smoothness; at least till the Ironhead. Speaking of which, an Ironhead is my main bike. It has never let me down nor stranded me; and, after all, an Ironhead is just an updated, modernized Vincent for people that can't afford to park their ride on a display stand. And, yes, she wet sumps if I don't give her a go for a couple of weeks. I guess that's her way of shedding tears for lack of attention. As for British early computers; well, if that were all they had done, that would have been quite a lot but if it hadn't been for the courageous Brits & PM Churchill, our worldwide greeting salute would be the despicable one. I think the early computers were in pursuit of German codes. Add to that radar and the early work on jet engines and the Brits stand pretty tall. I guess we can forgive them for their motorcycles.

[@paulbrodie]

I think you have been drinking the Truth Serum!

[@davidervin7345]

@Alfred Wedmore It isn't kindness but the truth. All human competition, whether a chess match or a world war is decided by the strengths of the victor and the weaknesses of the loser. A world war has many heroes and many scoundrels. But the isolationism of the US in the early years left Britain as the West's only European foothold. Had the British folded, the eventual entry of the US would have found that loss a fatal weakness to overcome. The fortitude of the British in the late 30's & early 40's was astonishing and was probably among Hitler's greatest failures; and the West's greatest triumph. I am a very proud American but I am gobsmacked by the British & Churchill at this pivotal point. It was said that a general suggested that they send a team to assonate Hitler. Churchill exploded in anger, pointing out that the Germans could, then, replace the imbecile with a competent leader. The US then humiliated itself by demanding Britain repay war loans; which led to the 50's invasion of British motorcycles...wiping out Indian and almost defeating HD.

[@valentindelb]

Muy bueno!

[@Surestick88]

That oil pump is an interesting design. The gear style pump that's in common use nowadays is so simple in comparison. I'm guessing the engines uses splash lube for a majority of its lubrication given the piston style pump will produce an oil pressure pulse more than a steady pressure?

[@paulbrodie]

I guess you would call the oil pump a plunger style. It lubricates the crankpin and rocker shafts. Everything else is splash.

[@ccbproductsmulti-bendaustr3200]

👍👏👌episode

[@paulbrodie]

Hi Chris!

[@peterfowler8044]

I would have sworn you had some 3/8" drive British sockets :) . Peter

[@paulbrodie]

No need to swear, it's true. I sent you an email :)

[@yodasbff3395]

I've always used Honda bound but it looks like that loctite might be a better sealer, thanks for the video. 👍

[@broxy55]

Honda Bond, Yama Bond, Three bond, all excellent case sealers. I don't think the anaerobic loctite is 'better', different. My friend is Honda mechanic of 30 years, and uses only Three Bond, therefore I have done a couple motors with TB 1184. Have a guy to recommend a product and you won't go wrong. I don't want to be a field tester if it means taking it all apart and doing it again.

[@paulbrodie]

The Loctite sets up fairly fast, but not too fast, is easy to separate, and scrapes off very nicely too.

[@broxy55]

@@paulbrodie I've only used the 'grape jelly' Würth and Permatex anaerobic, so I was interested to see the strange orange Loctite you used actually set up as you cleaned up the excess. I was expecting to see it remain 'jelly'.

[@paulbrodie]

@@broxy55 That's partly why I like it. It sets up fairly fast, but gives you enough time for assembly, if everything goes to plan. Easy to take apart, and scrapes off very easily.

[@broxy55]

@@paulbrodie I can’t believe how well I remember putting mine together! I can’t wait to see it running and hope you post a riding vid

[@bobbyclobber9725]

Did you know that Bo Gaevert enlarges the oil feed hole in the case which increases the flow 20 percent ? We know how hot cubs run ..it helps

[@paulbrodie]

I did not know that...

[@bobbyclobber9725]

Sure. Call him when you do your next cub. He's a cub guru. He's in the cvmg roster. Btw you do fabulous work

[@paulbrodie]

@@bobbyclobber9725 Thanks Bobby...

[@bradley3549]

12:15 - It looks like that case bolt (or is that just a pin hole?) to the left may help retain that bushing since it had a bit of a relief the circumference.

[@handlebullshit]

Indeed. Those seem to line up.

[@paulbrodie]

I looked but I can't tell.

[@terrygower6356]

The reason it may look correct re the shifting up for first is that you are driving the gearbox via the kickstart not via the mainshaft …? I would have to think..The kickstart stop was fouling on the case and needed a bit of rotation before the case would go home..common on lots of German and British bikes. It’s always a mystery..thanks.

[@paulbrodie]

I made an assumption, one up, and I was wrong. All the Cub owners are telling me one down. I believe them.

[@terrygower6356]

@@paulbrodie it looks nice..I like the sprocket door and the ignition…I have found some of those white square section o rings are squishy and want to walk out…my 500 Daytona was jumping out of third gear, I purchased a nice quality made in England cam plate from mike at walridge motors recently. Again thank.

[@wanmuhammadfakhrullahwan8078]

👍👍

[@trevorrose7746]

I had a t cub .in 1969 .my one all ways leaked oil .and the cam used to go .and the chain goes though the wires to the alternator .

[@paulbrodie]

The Tiger Cub was not a perfect motorcycle, but they do have their charm!

[@jimurrata6785]

Try orange Loctite on the countershaft sprocket. It is high strength but you don't need to cook the seal to get it free.

[@paulbrodie]

I have taken apart threads with red Loctite. It is doable.

[@jimurrata6785]

@@paulbrodie Do you use something like a clutch hub tool to lock the countershaft sprocket? I assume you didn't use 7471.

[@paulbrodie]

@@jimurrata6785 Jim, you're ahead of yourself. You've got to wait for the next video!