How to Sharpen a Moulding Plane | Paul Sellers

[@TheBeeFactory]

Excellent video. I just inherited about 30 molding planes from my great uncles old workshop. I knew right where to go the second I aquired them. Of course Mr. Sellers already has a great video on how to sharpen them! This man is a treasure.

[@KuntaKinteToby]

I wish other masters were so passionate about sharing their knowledge.

[@SuperMefisto6666]

What I love about you Paul, is that you take your time. Every singe video is so relaxed. And that's why I'm able to fall asleep to your videos every single day. I'm not even a wood worker!

[@nomiak47]

I cracked up to this...but he is a master craftsman..gotta give him that.

[@azul8811]

Talk about a left-handed complement!

[@alsmith1025]

Never tire of watching Paul Sellers. Thanks.

[@HovingtonInstruments]

Every time I watch one of those kind of videos, it brings me back to my grand fathers shop when I saw him do those things but was too young to understand what was happening. Thank you Mr. Sellers for passing out the knowledge that so many of us out there are missing,and keep the roots of woodworking alive! Next time I see a profile plane, I might just buy it to add to my woodworking tools and know that now I will be able to use it down the road.

[@mixolydian2010]

Really appreciate you sharing your lifetime gained skills. Always a pleasure and very informative. Take care.

[@Enredandonogaraxe]

Thank you very much for the information. I wondered how to keep the shape of the iron when I sharpen it. I used a gauge sharpening stone with a very rusty iron, and I got excited with the nice molding these planes make.

[@Jessepigman69]

Ive just received about 40 of these exact planes. Thankyou so much for sharing your expertise

[@jeskasper]

Thank you for this! I inherited two boxes containing my grandfathers old moulding planes. I had no idea how to sharpen them, but now I do, and I am ready to start restoring the lot of them.

[@flkamm]

Paul, Thank you! Just what I needed to see. You've got a very helpful video, again!

[@semerhi]

It sould be illegal to dislike this channel

[@dusttilldawn123]

Don't have any Moulding Planes but peter you have just Shown us all that we should Thanks

[@nickyork8901]

Thank you Mr Sellers. I have just been given about 70 moulding planes, they need some cleaning up and sharpening, and this will help me enormously. I did not know about the stick angle.

[@AlejandroGarcia-px6om]

Dear Mr. Paul thank you so much your coaching, is really apreciated, with best regards from México.

[@sj_harris]

Bought my first moulding planes tonight, really looking forward to trying them out, hoping that I remember some of your teachings! Thanks Sam

[@bradenglettkd8zm69]

Wonderful. Now I can start using some of my old moulding planes! Thank you.

[@hkimsey]

Excellent easy approach to sharpening! So natural!

[@ScrapwoodCity]

Very informative as always, thanks for sharing!

[@donmartel4143]

Thank you,Mr. Sellers. This video could not have come at a better time as I have just come into possession of nearly 20 molding planes that require varying degrees of attention.

[@HeavyDemir]

Thank you so much sir for your lovely videos, I practices what u teach in the garage as much as I can, inspired and inspiring

[@headknocker8999]

Another great video Paul.. I only have a few of these from Grandpa's tool chest & even have an extra iron for my hollow round moulding plane, Soon they will all be as sharp as when Great Grandpa used them in the late 1800s.. Gary/Hk

[@sofiadragon1979]

Thank you, there are quite a few molding planes that are at a nearby antique mall that I shop at that I've been wondering how to sharpen them for use, now this has cleared up allot.

[@robertwilson4704]

Thank you for the information I recently purchased a Stanley 45 and did not know how to sharpen any of the beading plane blades. I will definitely use some of the techniques from this video to get them back to working order.

[@Garageworkshop]

Always very enjoyable to watch and filled with great tips.

[@russbuck1000]

I just picked up 15 assorted moulding planes at a car boot sale for £2 each, can't wait to get them ready for use again! Car boot sales seem to throw up some great old tools at dirt cheap prices, seems every other stall has a brace or two lying in a box.. old saws, wooden jack planes, marking gauges - all kinds!

[@leighgretton1255]

Thanks Paul. A couple of months ago I acquired 3 moulding planes. Now I know what to do. Regards.

[@silenthill5794]

Excellent video Mr Sellers. My question is, why is it so hard to find videos on how to build moulding planes ? It's like there's a Secret Society that's preventing this. I see 1 or 2 videos available accompanying this page, but the others are usually 25 second previews for a DvD they're selling. Thank you again Paul Sellers, you're the reason I got into woodworking.

[@charleyatslowvannah6393]

Silent- Hill ***** Absolutely, would love to hear Paul's take on making molding planes.

[@radarreally2110]

Same reason you don't see tinners in factories any more. The process has been autimated now. Given half an hour machine can make 100 feet of equal quality moulding to my 10.

[@ghostzart]

+Radar Really True...assuming you only want one of the dozen mouldings the company offers. Or you don't mind building a bunch of custom jigs and buying a bunch of special bits for your router. Once upon a time a creative woodworker could make any moulding you could dream of with a small set of planes. This individuality largely died out with the advent of steam-powered moulding machines.

[@williamlattanziobill2475]

Lie Nielsen sells a video on making moulding planes.

[@goognamgoognw6637]

{Radar Really}, 'faster' of course, but 'equal quality' that is not true. An automated process uses a spindle milling machine. It cuts the wood by spinning at high speed not by translating a bevel into the wood by hand with a molding plane which is the only way to make a beautiful 'moulure' surface. Worse, every point on the spindle will have a difference speed because it is rotating, not translating . Surfaces that are deeper in the molding get cut at higher speed than points higher up. This creates a ton of dust as the wood is being pulverized, not a natural cut. The surface will not have that antique natural cut finish but be rough and wood modings are never sanded. At the end, those factories produce inferior moldings faster for a lower cost. They exist because few people want to pay for hand made furniture, but there is a comeback.

[@jakegevorgian]

Thanks Paul Sellers for another great video.

[@sandyoneal]

Very nice. I've a shelf full of molding planes that were purchased in antique stores abd they all need sharpening.

[@tropifiori]

Thanks.I have several of those and could not properly sharpen them. Now I know how.

[@supersesqui]

Thanks Paul, always a pleasure.

[@rostoi6985]

Amazing plane. Thanks for thé sharing.

[@charleyandsarah]

Another wonderful video, thank you Paul.

[@ranjdall]

Your videos are second to none

[@paulbradley2472]

Thank you for showing this. Would you use a simular approach when sharpening the cutters on the Stanley/ record no. 50 plane? I have aquired one with all the cutters except one, the very smallest, and they are a bit rusty and drag in the wood I'm trying to form. I've freed all the screws for the fence and depth stop and got everything sliding nicely on the bars, I would now like to try cutting some rebates and mouldings.Would this be the way to go?

[@danthechippie4439]

Hi Paul, great video, where do you recommend purchasing these moulding planes and what ones do you suggest as there are so many

[@MrWoody135]

Great video, such patience.

[@Fraususemil]

Aaw I would like to hug you tightly :o) Now I know how to sharpen my collection of wonderful moulding planes - thank you so much! Your blade is so nice and shiny afterwards, I hope I can manage to achive such results as well. Then I must find a video about how to sharpen gouge chisels and I am pefectly happy.

[@Fraususemil]

I like the way you speak :o)

[@goognamgoognw6637]

if i may prevent you some frustration, you need to get equipped with sharpening stones and it's not cheap. Note how Paul uses both oil stones and diamond stones each coarse, medium and fine. Also honing compound and leather strop. Many people make the mistake to skip and think that you can just get one stone. It won't work, and you need to learn to use them too.

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Very interesting. Exactly the info I was looking for, thanks Mr. Sellers. What type of iron would you recommend for making your own Plane? You mentioned that the iron in the Complex Plane you were repairing was rather soft.

[@Ema_Punkt]

Thank you very much for sharing!! I was looking for quite some time for this - my moulding planes are in desperate need for sharpening but I didn't really know how!

[@guidojansen3146]

Very clear video Paul, thank you! I got a ca. 35 moulding planes so i start sharpening them tonight ;) Could you once make a video on making one?

[@mgmoody42]

@18:25 We call it the "spring line" and usually it's scribed on the toe.

[@mjallenuk]

I haven't watched a video for a while even though I'm a paid up member... Just busy... But wow have I missed it! Thanks for the reminder folks :0)

[@raysmith1992]

Another informative video, I have a Stanley plough plane so would think I could use this technique to sharpen the blades that it comes with.

[@patrickbrett66]

I was offered some moulding planes for £5 each, wasn't sure if I had any use for them so didn't bother but now I know how to sharpen them I night go back and get a few :D How much would you pay for a moulding Plane if the condition was just below usable (needs sharpening) and not to badly battered?

[@radarreally2110]

Moulding plains in the states are very valuable because no one wants hand plained moulding (rather, they don't want to pay for it) Finding a moulding plain for that cheap would be like finding a gold brick in the pocket of a suit you hadn't worn since last year. For 8ish dollars each I would have relieved them of several.

[@storjoel]

Would love to see your method for sharpening hollow chisel mortiser bits.

[@sandrinevictorialilylouben7372]

Great video ! I have somes of this molding planes and I didn't know how to take care of. I suppose the way to sharpening the "round" part is the same for the gouge isn't it ?

[@archeryates1309]

can you show me how to set up and use the Stanley No.50 combination plane?

[@JeremyMcMahan]

Fantastic technique. Thanks!

[@jeff8470]

That looks, as you said, not complicated as long as it's carefully done. I just received a very nice and clean 1/4 grooving plane that has a slight skew to the main cutter. Carefully watch what I'm doing and I should be OK. But, the leading iron is an edge cutting iron for going cross grain, that's shaped like a "V" with a flat bottom. One of the tangs on the cutting edge is almost completely gone. I would think at first that I'm going to have to lower that floor to leave room for equal edge cutting points (perhaps a floor 1/8" across), then shape the two cutting points at the edge back to the 1/4" distance apart as they lead the main 1/4" cutter along the wood. That, of course, took longer to say than to see. What might I use? The edge of a 1/8 thick file that has teeth on the edge? Risky? A 1/8' thick piece of wood with wet-dry paper stretched tightly? Considering that this is to regain the shape first before sharpening, any further suggestions? I'd appreciate it; it's a lovely plane.

[@russbuck1000]

These moulding planes are great for straight mouldings, one thing I don't understand is how curved mouldings are created, for example on an oval mirror or picture frame - is there a different style of plane for this (I've seen cooper's planes that work around the inside of barrels), or is it just done with gouges instead? Maybe one for a Q&A?

[@goognamgoognw6637]

the blade only need to have the cross-section profile of the molding. Whether the modling is over a straight surface or along a curvature does not require a different blade, but requires a different geometry for the wood plane to be able to guide and support the blade along that curve. Ovals are made from two tangential circles of different radi would require two molding plane one for each radi. i don't think it's possible to mold an ellipse because the radius or angle of curvature is continuously changing.

[@CheeseBae]

I've also seen it done with gouges. They trace the outline of the molding using a pencil around the curved section, and then cut it out by hand.

[@nickyork8901]

Could also use a scratch stock.

[@markharris5771]

Thank you, this has been very useful indeed.

[@christophermartin2031]

Another great video Paul . Have you done any on stanley no 55 bull nose cutters ?

[@jackieearl1412]

Thank you learned alot

[@omarpereda1074]

gracias por compartis esto pablito!

[@mikeballinger6992]

@ Harry - his names Paul buddy but I agree on your comment. They look like wonderful tools to use.

Great video. Do you know another reason for the cross peen of a warrington hammer?

[@tellis9844]

+Nunya Dibness It is also used for striking pins in areas too delicate for the full face of the hammer.

[@whirled_peas]

I haven't used a moulding plane before, let alone sharpened one, but how about making a sharpening jig by cutting a short section of moulding with the plane and attaching sandpaper/that EZlap diamond paper stuff to it. Would preserve the moulding shape indefinitely and allow you to sharpen it about as quickly as any other plane blade. Can you see any reason why this might not be ideal? I am thinking of picking up a selection of about 25 of these but only if sharpening can be done relatively quickly.

[@Paul.Sellers]

There is no such thing as Eze Lap diamond paper so I am not sure what you are alluding to.

[@whirled_peas]

Paul Sellers Ah I had meant this stuff: www.fine-tools.com/diamond-lapping-film.html though looks pretty expensive! Or some form of diamond paste. Sandpaper of course works but would consume more wouldn't it?

[@whirled_peas]

Knew I'd seen something like it before! www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-sheet-ax974873

[@68HC060]

@samthepoor My thoughts exactly. One thing you might want to be careful about is the thickness of the sandpaper, because it will modify the plane's profile. However, since some people use leather and MDF to sharpen chisels, I wonder if it might be possible to first cut a negative plane-profile in the MDF, then use polishing paste on the MDF to sharpen the plane iron; unfortunately this will only allow you to "keep the iron sharp". -Though... I think that if you do this, you'd be able to quickly determine if there are any nicks in the plane that needs attention by first using the MDF to sharpen the iron and then check how it reflects the light.

[@warrenwatson3105]

Thanks

[@susanwebster3866]

I got some moulding planes from sale the other month with out the irons. i have a couple hollow and round ones and a 3 that are shaped. how do you make new irons for them

[@williamlattanziobill2475]

You can purchase blanks from Lie Nielsen, but you would have to shape them yourself, which can be a difficult process.Try this link, they sell hollow and round irons ready to go: www.corradishop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_9&products_id=53

[@Chungustav]

I like using the Speedy Sharp

[@peteward6478]

Thankyou.

[@ef2b]

This is a nice demonstration, but it may be easy to miss a key thing if this is the first time you've seen moulding planes. The key thing is that there are two aspects of sharpening: shape and sharpness. The work at around 5:00 to 7:00 is establishing the shape, matching the blade to the sole, but the filing is at too steep an angle to give a useful edge. You're just getting the shape right at this point and you want to take off as little as possible, i.e., that little strip should be as skinny as possible. Once you have the shape, you then work on getting sharp by establishing a useful bevel angle all the way to the cutting edge. You would work at a shallower bevel angle now, somewhere around 30-35 degrees, which is what Paul is doing in the second half of the work when the blade is in the vise. This means you'll be taking material off of the heel of the bevel. You work until this shallower grinding just reaches the edge where you did the shaping. As soon as there is a burr, you want to stop. Ideally, that thin stripe will be gone at this point, disappearing just as you get the burr, and you'll just have a polished bevel at a useful angle and that ends in an edge that exactly matches the sole. When you resharpen, you don't need to do that first step again! You should be able to resharpen many times before the shape is distorted enough that you'd need to reestablish it. I was confused when I was first shown how to sharpen moulding planes, so I hope this helps others. I don't think it contradicts Paul. It's not meant to. Another way to do this is to paint the back of the blade with marking fluid, load the blade, and then scribe the shape of the sole onto the blade. Put the blade in a vise, establish the shape, then establish the bevel. Or, if you have a grinder, grind to get the shape working nearly square to the wheel so that you don't burn the edge, then grind to get the bevel angle.

[@AutogenicMotor]

Thanks for the useful comments. I was wondering why he bothered with the first step with the blade still in the plane.

[@StavrosGakos]

nice!

[@chrisz.9974]

How exact does the cutting edge have to match plane itself?

[@egglyph]

Extremely close. If the blade protrudes too much out, the plane will never stop cutting. If the blade is not protruding enough, the plane won't cut the profile. The method pictured is a maintenance, something I would do every 5-10 uses. Restoration would take a bit longer.

[@douglaspierce7031]

The contour of the plane plane body is only for clearance. The profile of the plane body cannot encroach on the contour of the blade or the plane will not cut the profile to depth. If you look, the width of the blade is less than the width of the plane body. This part of the body acts as a stop so the plane doesn't keep cutting.

[@nikolaylozovoy3307]

A good method

[@Esiggies]

Love ya work. cheers for the upload.

[@jerbear7952]

Holy cow is it odd feeling the first time you whack your antique plane with a hammer

[@wadepatton2433]

Just about as much work as refurbishing a neglected straight razor. Good one.

[@ryanguyer6951]

Paul can see into your Sole!!