Ford Model A Motor Inspection - Dropped the pan, you WON'T BELIEVE what was inside!!

[@ModelA]

Motor: noun A machine, especially one powered by electricity or internal combustion, that supplies motive power for a vehicle or for some other device with moving parts.

[@littlejohnny4759]

Incorrect.... A motor does not convert its fuel in order to produce power. Hence we have electric MOTORS. An engine must take its fuel and convert it into another form of energy in order to produce its power. Hence, a steam engine, a gas engine a diesel engine. They all take fuel in one form and convert it into another in order to produce power. If it uses internal combustion it is an engine not a motor.

[@ModelA]

@@littlejohnny4759 The owner's manual calls it a "motor". So, just sayin.

[@ncc74656m]

My wife says to me "Let's go buy a car and get greasy," I'm jumping up right now and getting to work cause that's true love, baby.

[@ModelA]

You know the rule!!

[@pipercdefgabc2005]

😘

[@harriettedaisy2233]

I'd know she was an imposter.

[@mackfisher4487]

Your lucky man Paul having a partner that will help you on your projects.

[@ModelA]

The down side is, I have to help her with hers... And I hate worms!

[@kennethbaker2008]

You are indeed blessed.

[@mohinderkaur6671]

Normally women are supposed to be harassing and obstructing and criticizing you while you work ...

[@WayToManyAssassins]

​@@mohinderkaur6671😂😂

[@dennisyoung4631]

Hence this lady is a treasure.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

Well done, as usual. You're fortunate to have such a lovely helper!

[@ModelA]

Yes I am! Thanks Rick.

[@Quacks0]

Yep, fer sher --- well, Kevin Brown ("Junkyard Digs") has Mook, and he has Tina. :D

[@bruceraykiewicz6274]

Man, that sounds nice. Ole gear head here. I once upon a time had a '31' 1/4 ton 'A' pick up. I bought it from an old auto parts house in NE Jersey when I was 23 yrs. old. It was run hard and put up wet who knows how many times. The engine had be bored and the crank turned at some time. And, it always leaked oil past the rear main(those things originally had no rear main seal, as you probably know) they depended on a slinger system to get the oil back to the pan. Anyhow, by 1967, I had acquired a spare engine block, head and all. That had never been bored and the crank never turned. Lucky me! I called my dad, who had been an auto mechanic from the 'T' days, to find out how to clearance the rods and mains. He gave me a trick that was done on them long before plastigauge. I did that with the shims, put thick wall Caddy wrist pins in, with retainers. And new Perfect Circle cast iron rings of course. That engine ran so nice. Light gray exhaust pipe, which was what we used to look for in those days. AND, no more rear main oil leak. Drove that thing a lot, until I decided to move to Fl. And I sold it. Wish I brought it with me. sorry for the long post. Thanks again for your videos. And again, that 'A' engine sounded sweet.

[@ModelA]

Thanks for sharing, Bruce! Dang, you should have kept it and brought it to FL with you. Well, you can always buy another!

[@mexcanfun4498]

I have used plasticguage here in Mexico.

[@monsta3038]

Leather bearings and hog fat piston liner's good old fashioned mechanic or hillbilly witch doctor? Who knows

[@craigweis1675]

When my dad drove his 'A' from Redick, Illinois to see his sister in her Iron Lung in Chicago he had to drop the pan and install leather belt bearings around the main crank journals and conrods and put the reused oil back in just to make the trip. My aunt did 13 years on her back staring into a mirror hung on her iron lung. It was like a basketball court with all the iron lungs 'parked' diagonally for maximum capacity on the gym floor. And Bite-Me Biden and Kammy the Commie are worried about Covid when 0.62% of the World's population [a huge number, but still] ever succumbed to this tested Chinese biological weapon with a better ten 94% recovery rate. We shut the World down for this?

[@MikeyDonna]

I’m an 82 year old retired auto tech . The first time i saw the inside of an automobile engine was when at 5 years old watching my dad take the head off our family car ( a model A) cylinder head and saw 3 pistons on top dead center. Even then it seemed strange. It wasn’t until years later I recalled that and told him what I saw. He said the piston on the odd cylinder broke into just above the wrist pen . The bottom half with the rod still attached continued to function normal leaving the top half stuck in the carbon at the top of the cylinder. I think back at that and still wonder how a 5 year old would have noticed something wrong.

[@ModelA]

Because you have natural talent!

[@patrickquirk-qz8ri]

Seen that on a 48 flathead v-8.

[@paboot]

Thanks again Paul, I look forward to your great videos on Saturday morning. That little bolt thingie to hold the oil pump in is a great timer saver. As always, you are one of, if not the best KZbinr at showing and explaining how it's done. Looking forward to your next one, whatever it is. At 77 years old, I'm still learning so much from you. Stay say my friend, PaulB

[@ModelA]

Thanks Paul! That little oil pump holder is pretty slick! If you call Bert's and order one, mention you saw it here, please! Steve says he will do a little something extra for people who saw it here.

[@thomaslemay8817]

Th oil just looks like most motor oil before the interdiction of PCV systems on engines.

[@brentderksen6576]

You and your wife make a good team. Enjoyed it very much.

[@ModelA]

Thanks Brent!

[@SergLa]

Приятно видеть красивую пару на фоне красивого автомобиля. Не знаю, что кого больше украшает: вы машину или машина вас. Интересно увидеть коленвал Форда. У меня особый интерес: я строю реплику самолёта, летавшего поначалу на моторе от Форд А. It's nice to see a beautiful couple on the background of a beautiful car. I don't know what adorns who more: you decorate the car or the car decorates you. It's interesting to see the Ford crankshaft. I have a special interest: I am building a replica of an airplane that first flew on a Ford A engine.

[@ModelA]

Thank you, my friend!

[@craigweis1675]

Henry's son, Edsel Ford in a Ford-produced monoplane powered by a Model 'T' engine. This aeroplane did fly several times but crashed and was not resurrected. qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-12a8a94e714122ee13d88678529a9a9c. The Ford Tri-Motor came years later. tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.oBLSNw6zppKyekWTJpfuWQHaEG&pid=Api&P=0&w=306&h=171 wahsonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Ford-3.jpg. Mr. Stout, sent Henry Ford a letter ... "I like $3,000 to start my aircraft company ..." Henry Ford sent him the money and bankrolled his company. Later Stout aeroplane morphed into the Ford Tri-Motor through a series of earlier models.

[@wherethereisfaith]

Man Paul, you and the wife work on Model A's So Cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@monsterman51]

You should always make sure the fill plug will come out before opening the drain plug. Just a little something I learned a very long time ago.

[@ModelA]

That just might be the best advice EVER! Thanks, man.

[@timothyjamieson1282]

@@jeffreylee7184 because otherwise when you discover the filler plug is seized solid, the oil is drained and car is immobilized. If you pull the filler first you can always refill it like normal and drive on.

[@craigweis1675]

Can't get fluid to move in or out without venting the cavity.

[@jomarz1828]

@@timothyjamieson1282 , Logic is a beautiful thing lol

[@kenrhoda2573]

This video came at the perfect time! The next thing my Dad and I are planning to do as part of our own restoration is to drop the oil pan and clean that out! Now we know what to look for! Thanks again Paul for yet another great video!!

[@ModelA]

Nice! Hey Ken, please report back and let us know how it goes!

[@jamesplotkin4674]

And as far as "junk" oil, your beauty never had it so good, what with the modern formulas. Just be mindful of the SN rating. Not flat tappet friendly.

[@ModelA]

True

[@pumpkintown]

I hope you get to do a video on adjusting the brakes and hand brakes, and inside the wheel adjustments/ maintenance. I am new to Model A and frankly am a bit uneasy about pulling a hub and going inside the wheel. Even with Les Andrews #1! But not with a Paul Shinn video! Lol! Thanks brother keep up the great work!

[@ModelA]

Have you seen my brake adjusting video?

[@pumpkintown]

@@ModelA Yes sir But I would love to see more on the inside of the wheel as My A hasnt been serviced inside the wheel for over 40 years and I would love to see your take on taking the hub off and going inside the wheel itself and what things to look for on the inside, if time ever allows! Thanks brother

[@ModelA]

@@pumpkintown OK, you got it! Thanks.

[@pumpkintown]

@@ModelA thanks brother!

[@craigweis1675]

I'm looking forward to the brake videos.

[@Nord3202]

In Aviation we are taught to bend the cotter pins over the top & down. Then trim the excess ends. I also check them for wiggle & use a pliers to snug them if needed. Also stainless cotter pins are softer than the steal cotter pins. I have seen stainless wiggle, wear threw & fall out. Automotive stuff is usually low grade China. Aircraft grade cotter pins are not expensive & you get mil spec quality & cad plated corrosion resistant. The mil spec is MS24665 & army navy spec AN380. Aircraft Spruce in California sells complete assortments in kits. On use them on all my vehicles & equipment.

[@paulmathews5686]

just a quick tip for anybody pulling / then re installing a oil pan in the vehicle , take 4 bolts longer than what came out , cut the heads off , then cut a screwdriver slot in were the head was, screw them up on the pan rail , 2 on one side / 2 on the other side staggered front to rear . now you have alignment studs to keep the pan were you want it with gaskets were you want them . the bigger the pan the more you need them as a extra set of hands . especially if your working on big motors like Macks / Cats / Cummins / ect. ect. ect. those things get to dancing around till you get a couple bolts in and can make life miserable should the gasket - get - away . hope this helps somebody , THE MACK GUY

[@ModelA]

Thanks Paul!

[@ElliottAlvis]

Might as well call you Paul ‘Shim’! Loved you and Tina working together in the first part of the video. These cars are such fun to work on compared to the overly complex stuff of today. Keep up the amazing work man!

[@ModelA]

Shim!!! Ha ha!! Thanks, Elliott! I keep telling Tina she should just wrench on Model A's here with me and quit doing her many other KZbin channels that aren't getting any views. But, you know what it's like trying to reason with a spouse unit.

[@ElliottAlvis]

@@ModelA I know all too well! Lol

[@DWS1435]

U R lucky she didn't lower you down and drained your wallet. lol

[@discerningmind]

Good work Paul and Tina. Thanks for an interesting video.

[@fuhkoffandie]

You're lucky that cotter pin was all it was. Yeah, you need to tighten the bends on those cotter pins, so they can't vibrate. That's all it'll take for those to wear out and come off. No Babbitt bearing in the bottom of the pan, so that thing had to be rebuilt at one point in time. It's too damn clean. I've seen these motors, in original condition, with oatmeal packed in the radiators, sludge like mud, where they pumped grease into the oil to make it last longer, and all kinds of Barnyard trickery. Yeah, that thing is as fresh as it gets. I've seen these motors with bearing hanging out of each Journal, hell, it looked like they wrapped the crank journals in Coca-Cola can aluminum, Like they squeezed out of the rod Journal. Just some backyard, Boneyard engineering at its finest. That's how you can tell it was original.

[@charlesbaker6158]

See if you can find information on the proper way to cotter pin a castleatedf nut. Aircraft maintenance procedures can teach that technique .

[@andrewmantle7627]

It tastes terrible; for several days. Plus, it impregnates your skin and clothing with a foul smell.

[@truthseeker2190]

I live in the rust belt way up in canada The only cars you see here that are as clean and rust free as that one, are usually only in showrooms, the salt in the winter, eats cars pretty quickly

[@thomasaument4491]

Did you ever use shoe lether to replace rod bearings l bin told by old mechanic's that is what they did during the word wars?

[@ModelA]

Ha ha! No, I have repkaced them with insert bearings though.

[@georgemckenzie181]

Likely a model T would use that

[@Oldbmwr100rs]

I dropped the pan on a '31 Model A because the rear main was leaking badly. Interestingly I found several chunks of bent sheet metal and needed to figure out what the heck happened. They were piston expanders, placed inside the skirts of the pistons, and a couple had broken and fell out. now it was becoming a typical bottomless pit! Customer was selling it and just wanted it running enough to have a short drive to offload, the car had been a relative's old restoration and had been sitting for many years, and they weren't interested in a rebuild. I learned a lot about the model A on that job, for a car so basic, it made me rethink electrical systems for one thing, and how to start and run a car with carb mixture control in the dash.

[@ModelA]

Wow. What a mess!

[@Oldbmwr100rs]

@@ModelA It was just one of many cans of worms I've worked on, learning a lot in every one of them. The '31 Caddy V12 roadster though I got it running so well for the guy he let me drive it, something I don't think anyone else was ever allowed to. While not an XKE, was just as amazing to get to drive, even if it was just a short trip.

[@cratecruncher6687]

"YOUWON"TBELEIVE" A cotter pin is firmly within the spectrum of believability. Hyperbolic headlines are so cheesy. Good luck with your channel.

[@ModelA]

I was poking fun of the way other KZbin video titles are written in my dry, autistic sense of humor way. If you don't find that humorous, it's OK.,

[@raytaylor4089]

Why not just cut a thread into the fitting that was taken off and put a bolt into it to hold the oil pump in place. That then allows you to just fit the oil pressure gage back.

[@craigweis1675]

Why use a Pressure gauge at all, once the oil is warm the pressure falls to 'gauge zero'? The only reason for the oil pump is to push oil up to the lifter gallery where it pools behind weirs and overflows back down through the oil return tube to the sump. The oil pump delivers about 19 foot-head pints a minute at no pressure and at 2,800 max engine rpm, about 60 to 65 mph. Engine rpm is around 300 to 2,800. It will idle a tad slower than 300 rpm but the oiling capacity from the pump falls drastically off. "I can 'F' her, You can 'F' her is impressive ... but for a very short time before the oil behind the weirs become dangerously low. Since the one-piece or two-piece drive shaft between the oil pump and the distributor are comingled you will know when the oil pump is not pumping because the distributer will not be turning. I'd rather use a coolant temperature gauge for these 'open to the atmosphere, thermo siphoning cooling systems.

[@MrBer43]

Kids today think elbow grease is a petroleum product🤪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@ModelA]

You'd be surprised how many kids wrench these days. It's inspiring!

[@MrDhess68]

Love the video, its not often one gets to see the underside of these beauties. I especially enjoyed the pan under the rear seal and its a shame those were not optional on smal block Chevies and 302 Ford as they seem to always have rear seal problems, lol. Keep up the great work!

[@ModelA]

Thanks David!

[@DWS1435]

Love this Model A. It has the same color scheme as my 30 Fordoor had.

[@ruwithlee1970]

To heck with the scrubbing, I'm lazy get Citrus Stove cleaner or power purple! And hit it with the pressure washer! Haha

[@TooManyHobbiesJeremy]

I really enjoyed the video Paul. It was also good to see Tina acting like a boss 😎 interesting to see the dipper tray and how it integrates into the pan.

[@modeladenny1218]

Tina ACTING like a boss ?😀

[@ModelA]

Haha! Thanks! The dipper tray just wedges in there and is held in with those lines along the sides of the oil pan.

[@bbbmw]

I love how they didn’t need washers, it’s just the strength and thickness of the steel that keeps it from leaking. Fantastic stuff

[@ModelA]

REAL metal!

[@russellboyle1368]

Another great video Paul, Tina is sure a great assistant to the Model A cause. Isn’t the lift a fantastic asset in making the under body work easier ,I have the same one! Keep up the good work ( information) for us model A enthusiasts. Regards from Australia 🦘🇦🇺

[@ModelA]

Thanks Russell!

[@Techie1224]

i think this 100 yo car can live for extra 100 years with that oil change lol

[@ModelA]

Yep!

[@oldtanker4860]

Your wife doesn't mind working on cars and getting greasy?!?!?! You sir have a real keeper there.

[@ModelA]

Yep!

[@user-ut9ln4vd5m]

Video volume needs normalizing, goes from whispering to screaming loud. Otherwise cool vid

[@ModelA]

That's odd. It doesn't do that on my computer machine.

[@michaelasbury7121]

It's best to run it on the old engine oil a few minutes anyways, so any sludge that did build up isn't sitting on the bottom of the pan and plugging up the drain. Also, if you do se this comment, I recently inherited a sports coupe my grandfather was restoring in the 80s. He rebuilt the motor, took the body completely apart, cut out the rust, sprayed everything with primer and stopped working on it. Just piled everything into the cab and left it sit. Never worked on it again. Where would you recommend I start? I've never fully restored a car before, I'm 18 years old.😂

[@ModelA]

Hi Michael. I see all the comments! I'm not one of those stuck-up youtube "celebrities" too good for anyone else. I'm just a guy. Anyway, nice job getting that sport coupe! Where to start? Start by restoring the chassis. Get the motor, drive train, brakes, etc. all working perfectly FIRST! Trust me. You'll be way ahead of the game having a perfect driving chassis and then, putting a body on it. The body would be the very last thing I do. And meanwhile, you can have a "garage day" where you invite the local Model A club people over. Have lots of pizza and a cooler full of iced beverages and watch the magic just happen.

[@nelsonchegezy3332]

Hello Michael, Paul is absolutely correct. You want to get the engine, brakes, and chassis sorted to spec first. To test the engine and even test drive the chassis, a small gas tank from a lawnmower can be attached. I've seen too many beautifully painted and upholstered Model A's that don't run reliably because not enough effort was put into the engine, brakes, and chassis. Also as Paul suggests, join your local Chapter/Region of MAFCA and/or MARC. You'll develop wonderful relationships with very helpful fellow Model A enthusiasts.

[@ModelA]

@@nelsonchegezy3332 True Dat!

[@Z-Ack]

Paul shinn.. hmm. Anybody ever called you polishing? Or polish ann?

[@ModelA]

ALL the time! Ha ha! Also get called "pollution".

[@michaellong6052]

I use redline racing oil in my transmission and rear end it’s also synthetic it’s 90-240 Weight

[@craigweis1675]

No need for the long chain of 30+ carbon molecules formulated in Redline Racing oil. That is too light in viscosity. 600 weight steam engine oil is the original Ford speck for the transmission, rear end, and steering box. 600 is too thick to sneak past the steering box felt/seals. I don't know why Ford put a grease zerk on the box when NO GREASE should ever be placed in the steering box.

[@craigweis1675]

When I first got my 'A' home and up on 4 jack stands I started it and let it run in second gear for 30 minutes to heat up the old lube. Then drained the trans and rear end. Then filled both with modern 80/90 gear oil and ran it again in gear for 20 minutes to 'wash and flush'. ~~~ Dragged a magnet through the dump pan looking for any metal. Clean enough. Nothing bad was dragged out with the magnate in the dump pan. Then dripped and drained overnight and refilled with 600 weight steam engine oil.

[@geraldbly4903]

Great video! Nice to see what a great team you and Tina make! Glad to see you getting Athena sorted right too.👍

[@ModelA]

Thanks! It's gonna be a long journey.

[@geraldbly4903]

It will be worth it.

[@Eduardonplima1]

Paul Great job Maybe someday you will tell us the secret of staying so clean doing such a dirt job When I put the pan back I use to guide it with two long screws with the same diameter but with the top cut off It reduces the time I spend to put it in place and fit the rest of the screws, at the end you take them off and save as a tool What did you find in the pan under the dip panel ? A car like this might have a lot of grease mud on it ! Greetings from Brazil

[@ModelA]

Thanks Eduardo! Just behind the building next to the lift is an outdoor shower. I wash hands and arms between shots. In the pan was the rest of that cotter pin and some sludge.

[@Eduardonplima1]

Thank you

[@AMCguy]

For a car like that, I'd definitely keep the oil pressure gauge. I just found your channel, i love it!

[@ModelA]

Welcome aboard!

[@donaldburkhard7932]

If cleaning over you head glasses are ok but face mask better. No tasting stuff.

[@ModelA]

You're right

[@Sophia-io8qg]

That silicon is a lot better then the old Indian Head

[@williammedford3661]

Enjoyed your video , makes me wish I still had my 31.

[@kennethswain6313]

Thanks for sharing! I look forward to your weekly presentation. You are so fortunate to have family that support you and a enviable collection of “A”s. How old were you when you began saving Model A’s?

[@ModelA]

Old enough to know better. Actually, I forget.

[@pipercdefgabc2005]

Have fun guys, things like this make watching videos fun. Girls and guys working together to accomplish a gold.💖💖 we understand about the plastic Gage. No torque, specs no filter? Wow.

[@martinevenson9844]

Paul, Big fan.. I really enjoy all your videos.. I have a 31 Phaeton with a leaking oil pan… I was planning to replace the oil pan gasket but I have 3 questions that were not covered in this video… (1) How did you get to the front pan bolts… It appears that the tie rod limits my access and I am not see how to get a socket between the pan and the front cross member… (2) You put the rear cork gasket in place, what did you use to hold in place before you added the silicone dabs… (3) What did you use to keep the cork gaskets and rope gasket in place while to installed the pan?

[@ModelA]

Thank you! 1. Turn the wheels all the way one direction 2. If you use the correct size cork, it will stay just by being the right size. 3. I use the proper size cork and rope. It stays all by itself.

[@martinevenson9844]

@@ModelA Wow... Thank you... I didn't know if you would reply... Thank you!!!

[@ModelA]

@@martinevenson9844 Why wouldn't I reply? That would be rude.

[@boaterbil]

Shims are not going to stop side play

[@donm6578]

Sleepin' in style 6ft in the air

[@ModelA]

So the dog couldn't lick me and wake me up.

[@daviddiffenderfer6963]

Don't forget the Bruce stick

[@jimmccoskey8253]

Just wondering the purpose of the dangling wrench? Thanks for another excellent video!

[@ModelA]

Covered that in the previous video. It's just there.

[@strshooter7399]

Paul, thanks for the “Intro to the Model A 101”. Never seen the internals of one and know pretty much NOTHING about Model A’s. I used to do some backyard maintenance on a few cars I’ve owned, and after working underneath more then my share, I like to wear ... something to keep the crap out of my hair, whatever that suits ya. Personally, of the various fluids I hate the taste of most, is brake fluid (dot 3/4). It just seems to linger on the tongue more so than 10w-30, 90w gear lube (close second), or ATF fluid ~ prefer burnt ATF of course. (I’m guessing TYPE F isn’t something that Model A’s need). Of course, I’m sure you have your favorites too 😉. Thanks again for the inside look at your Model A. 👍

[@richardwashburn9954]

You were needing a plug for the oil galley, wasn't there one in the fitting you took off?

[@craigweis1675]

In the video, Paul shows the 90-degree fitting removed and attached to the oil line gauge. The plug is standard for all engines.

[@JalopiesDannerr]

Thank you for another great video! I really like the detail, when you screwed all the oil pan bolts in, very nice touch of editing! :-D

[@ModelA]

I stole that from Aging Wheels.

[@kylohusky]

Always take out the fill plug befor the drain plug. If the fill plug is stuck you will not be able to fill it back up.

[@ModelA]

If the fill plug won't come out, then I fix it. It's a Model A afterall!

[@jeremytjones2599]

Thank you so much for making this video! I am attempting to drop the pan on my 29 fordor this weekend and this video makes it look easy.

[@ModelA]

Glad it helped!

[@gudfarfar]

That's a proper hands-on DIY kind of car, and not this modern POS that is programmed to fail regularly and too complicated to fix by yourself, so you have to pay through the nose to keep the dealers garage happy and your car on the road. I love a true mechanics car.

[@ModelA]

Well said!

[@robertdavidson3090]

Looks like your back may be a bit better!! That's good.

[@ModelA]

I shot this before I shot Friday's video. My back still sucks.

[@rickuyeda4818]

Never understood how people can let a car sit. I drove my classics every week. Sometimes to work and training.

[@macmac8249]

This is the first time I’ve seen your videos. It won’t be the last. Nice to see car owners working on their own cars. I don’t know much about these cars. Just a few questions though...1) were there no oil filters or filter elements on those engines? 2) What was that small square metal tray for...the one you had to remove? A drip pan? 3) do you have an GM alternator on the car? Great video....I’ll be back. Thanks....Mac

[@ModelA]

Welcome, Mac! Model A's did not come with oil filters. We add them sometimes now. That tray was an aftermarket bandaid for a leaky rear main. I fixed the leak, so I'm not putting it back on. Yes, that is a GM alternator. See the previous video for explanation. Thank you!! Best regards.

[@marvelaturraz5405]

Quick thought: (I don't know if anyone else has asked this) Why wouldn't you fill the rear end with ATF after draining that total sludge? Because ATF has high detergent additives, and if you spun the rear end on jackstands for a while; low speed and no load, that ATF would dissolve a ton of goop and crap that's in there, and then you could drain it again and THEN put in the proper, thick, differential oil. Would that make sense to do?

[@ModelA]

I suppose yes. At this point, I don't even know if the drivetrain is going to need to come out yet.

[@piercehawke8021]

One thing I've noticed is there seem to be a LOT of (mostly) stock Model As out and about. Admittedly, some have been upgraded to hydraulic brakes, 12V electrics, relocated gas tank, etc. but still.

[@ModelA]

There are a LOT os Model A's still out there. These cars last and last!

[@nelsonchegezy3332]

Per Murray Fahnestock (revered expert on the Model A): The Model A design or enduring beauty was "functional" and fundamentally correct for the time, kind of like an ancient Greek statue. It's relatively easy to service. Built from 40 kinds of alloy steels. Used 40% more anti-friction ball and roller bearings than competitive cars. Pioneered electrically welded and all-steel bodies (less wood to deteriorate). Last, but not least, it had an enduring finish.

[@dwightbehm2886]

Thats pretty neet paul Think I'll go and apply For a Job at Greenfield Village, DearBorn Mich. Where they have Lots a mo.A's T's and everything else. Would be fascinating. I would never get tired Of it.I was a mech for 40 years and can fix Anything. God bless. Dwight.

[@modeladenny1218]

Nce video and a nice surprise. That Model A really does look decent. I know those headlight eyebrows are coming off but I recently put a set on my "A" with blue jewels. I have a set with blue jewels to put on the 7" running lights and a small set with red jewels for the cowl lights which are turn signal lights only. It also has those fatter yet, side mounts which I've noticed do get in the way! The price we pay for high class! Over winter my son removed the right side windshield rear view mirror to install the side curtain with out a slit for the mirror, like the driver side has. He put it up for safe keeping. Months later and the mirror is still safely someplace!!!! ???? Now I have to beg someone to put on the step plates and seat belts. Being old isn't easy and finding good cheap help takes brains. About the lovely helper comments. Mine had blonde hair. She was a great helper but didn't know the difference between a connecting rod and a tie rod.

[@modeladenny1218]

@@jimervin1637 I wanted the large red jeweled visors but only found blue. Years ago they came in plastic in various colors and in stainless in several lengths. I agree, they are overkill. My A has a tiny V-8 so no hand cranking.

[@ucanfixit]

So, I am going to change my oil pan gaskets. I have ordered cork replacements from Snyders. When you put the oil pan back on, you don’t say much about the short gasket, or in particular the rope gasket. Any chance you may make a video showing the whole procedure? I am a first time A owner, a 29 CPU’s. Love your vids and appreciate what you are doing with them!

[@blackbirdpie217]

That's not junky oil. Look at the API service donut, the circle on the bottle that rates the oil. This standard is extremely specific and all oils sold in the USA that have an API service rating has to meet these specs. That is a chemical, ph, additive package, and testing standard. A Chevron oil engineer told me it really makes no difference what brand you buy, the old days of some oils having more sulfur, etc. are GONE, all oil brands are now essentially the same. And you know O'Reilly doesn't make oil, they buy it from a major refinery. Could be Shell, Exxon, Chevron, etc. so it's actually a major oil manufacturer in a different bottle. The other thing- I have to commend you for not using the old non detergent oil some old timers insist on. That old no-additive oil will muck up your engine fast. Using any modern oil is a huge upgrade and does your near 100 year old engine a favor. Your engine will stay clean and never sludge up so long as you change it on time. Synthetic is way overkill but won't hurt a thing. Also I read that before the viscosity standards were nailed down guessing the modern equivalent of what Henry specified is confusing but the best estimate for modern oil recommended is probably a 10W-40 but your choice of 10W-30 is very close and you can't go wrong with that either.

[@AstraWerke]

Oh Man, takes me right back to October when I tore my oil pan off to take a good look... The next challenge will be mounting my oil pan in a way that makes it leak-proof! Lovely intro :D

[@ModelA]

Just do what I did here. Doesn't leak a drop now! And, thanks! Oh, by the way... When you're ready for you-know-what, send me an email with your address, please. I presume the shipping to Germany will take a while.

[@AstraWerke]

@@ModelA I'll try that when I fit the oil filter. Mail is out :)

[@truthseeker8483]

Great to see you using full synthetic 10/30 oil..it is 2021 afterall.....some vintage car guys want to use the oil they used back in the day which is pretty stupid in my opinion...

[@ModelA]

Agreed

[@autophyte]

I assume by your description of the tool that can hold the oil pump in when the pan is removed, that the mass of the oil pump just sits on the bottom of the well in the sump under normal operation. What a strange design! What advantage could it be, to have a 'floating' oil pump?

[@waynegilchrist1596]

Just stumbled across your videos and I am glad I did. Love the experience you share and the quality of your videos is great. Always been a fan of the old "A's" and "It's"! I have a special affection these old Fords that had as big an impact on the development of what USA is as any other invention or contrivance.

[@ModelA]

Awesome, thank you!

[@MrRShoaf]

Screw is the proper term. A bolt is a threaded fastener intended to use by the application of torque to the head. A bolt is a fastener where torque is applied to a nut. More specifically a hex head cap screw.

[@ModelA]

Good to know. Thanks!

[@gwydion6968]

Clean the grease off and heat the area with a torch.

[@ModelA]

I'd be too tempted to just let it burn.

[@littlejohnny4759]

You were right the first time.... the oil pan is held on by SCREWS not bolts. A screw requires only one tool and is fastened by "screwing" into another piece. A bolt requires two tools and usually uses a nut (hence the second tool) in order to fasten.

[@musicauthority7828]

a little tip take the car for a little spin just before draining the fluids. it makes the fluids drain faster and more completely. otherwise it looked pretty routine. I see some modifications have been done to it like the Delcotron. and the closed cooling system.

[@ModelA]

I drove it from the shop to the lift. Good enough? Yes, many "modifications" needing to be removed. Someday, we will get to take this car for a spin.

[@Quacks0]

As we all know from watching Kevin Brown --- a.k.a. "Junkyard Digs" --- every backyard-mechanic needs a "Mook" (i.e., a cute bubbly tomboy) to keep him company and help him remain cheerful and encouraged through difficult/tedious/yucky auto-repair tasks like this; Tina is Paul's "Mook". :D

[@ModelA]

Mook is one of a kind. Nobody can replace her! Tina is irreplaceable in her own way as well.

[@Quacks0]

@@ModelA Oh, so you know her and Kevin personally? :)

[@ModelA]

@@Quacks0 Ha! Never met them, and I seriously doubt either of them has ever heard of me.

[@Quacks0]

@@ModelA Oh, okay. But you mean that you had known about their channels, and enjoyed watching Mook's cute silly antics? ;)

[@ModelA]

@@Quacks0 I have watched a few Junkyard Digs videos. That's all. I thought Mook was funny. Same reason George Burns and Gracie Allen were funny.

[@lecilalexander8374]

Paul another very useful and interesting video. Do you ever put STP in the lubricanting oil for the transmission, rear end and steering column to keep the gears from drying out? Also, do you know if the tray you took off is sold by the parts suppliers? I hope the back is better. You are a lucky man to have wife that helps you work on the model A. Lecil Alexander

[@ModelA]

I don't use STP. Too many problems with it. But I know people who do use it. Whatever works for you! Yes, the parts suppliers sell the oil catch thingie.

[@richardsharp6875]

Did you get anywhere with that calendar photo?If you threaten Ford with legal action they might offer settlement as it is clear copy right infringement!

[@ModelA]

Nah. It's no biggie.

[@eugenelevin8314]

Paul, your videos are all full of the right details. Can’t wait to see more sorting of Athena. Great stuff ! Thank you !

[@ModelA]

Awesome, thank you!

[@Quacks0]

23:06 What I do to completely empty the oil-bottle (hey --- you PAID for da entire five quarts, so ya might as well get da use of it all, eh???) is to insert a large-mouth funnel into the engine's oil-filler neck, then place the initially-drained bottle upside-down into the mouth of the funnel so that the bottle is suspended on at least a 45-degree --- i.e., "diagonal" --- angle (the more vertical the bottle is, the better it will drain), preferably with the handle on the "upward" side to let the residual oil drain out of its hollow interior better. You'd be surprised how much oil doesn't flow out just from the initial pouring, especially in cold temps --- while scrounging for usable parts and sheet-metal at a friend's scrap-yard, I once found about a dozen "emptied" quart-size motor-oil bottles in the back of a junked car, and they had been very incompletely drained before being discarded; I took the bottles home, used a funnel to suspend each inverted bottle as described above to let the remaining oil drain into one of the bottles, and in a couple hours I had collected over HALF A QUART of perfectly-good motor oil! I let each bottle drain for maybe fifteen minutes; this seemed sufficient time to remove all the oil that was going to drip out. And of course, this same strategy can be used for other valuable/costly fluids, as well, such as steering/brake/transmission fluid, coolant, laundry detergent, etc (these latter two liquids are much easier/quicker to completely salvage than some others, of course, since they are intended to be used with water, and so you can just use water to "immediately" rinse them out --- rather than having to tediously wait for them to leisurely drain out drop by drop --- and then add this thin liquid to your radiator or washing-machine).

[@ModelA]

Good tip. Thanks!! I usually suspend the "empty" oil jugs over the next one I open and let the the rest of it drip overnight or longer. Next time I go into the shop, I pick up the empty and screw the cap on the new one.

[@Quacks0]

@@ModelA Yeah, I do that sometimes, as well :)

[@jickmccivy6327]

Hey if it wasn't for all that grease from God knows where or when , it wouldn't look so damn good now . A friend in high school drove a flat black 1962 Ford and after he washed it he would spray the entire car outside with a kerosene and motor oil mix , and I gave him guff about how the oil attracts dirt and he would always just smile back while washing it again, well his grandson is still driving it

[@garychristensen8740]

Does that car still use non detergent oil!

[@ModelA]

It isn't picky.

[@quantumleap359]

First video of yours I've watched! Very interesting and informative. Subscribed, I'm looking forward to checking out all of your videos.

[@ModelA]

Welcome aboard!

[@greghapp1681]

Wondering if you are interested in selling this Model A

[@ModelA]

How much money you got?

[@bobtheraptorjoe577]

Tina Mammal!!! So happy you with the Paul Mammal

[@uliwehner]

athena is a greek goddess, not just a mere queen. The goddess of grease if you will

[@ModelA]

Thanks Uli. Yes, I know, but in order to not get a lecture from the wife, I went with queen over goddess. We are both Christian people, but she is very sensitive to what we place the god label upon.

[@uliwehner]

@@ModelA got you. Just think of it as history predating Christianity. Right or wrong, the greek had many gods.

[@ModelA]

Yes, I am aware. Greek Mythology is one of the many useless things I was forced to study in high school.

[@craigweis1675]

Forget the drip tray under the bell housing. It's not Ford. Further back the crank is to leak engine oil out to lube the 1-1/2 inch ball of the radius rods. Place the radius rod cap with the hole on top of it 'up' to catch the drip and for the ball. The bottom half of the ball surround has no hole. Here is the top surround that has a hole in it for the 'drip' to lubricate the metal 1-1/2" ball at the end of the radius rod assembly.www.themodelaford.co.uk/images/a-3430_large.jpg

[@fordguy728]

Lucked out in the bottom end! When I got my A it crumbled the Babbitt within two months of me having it. Now it’s all rebuilt with inserts. Love seeing the progress of sorting this A, I hope to have my all sorted soon.

[@ModelA]

Yes! Hey John, I know how you feel. I bought a Model A about 10 years ago that had a "freshly rebuilt" motor according to the seller. It lasted a few dozen miles! I emailed the guy I bought it from and asked for the rebuilder's info. He said it was a buddy. The buddy only honed it and put 40 thou bigger pistons in it, but never did anything with the bearings. I told him the babbit splattered and all 4 rods had cracked and broken babbit. He told me "I know, it was just a matter of time before the babbit failed completely, that's why I sold it". I wish I could broadcast that jerk's name to everyone and expose him for the fraud he was, but he is no longer with us.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

I know it's probably the camera angle, but geebus, that looked close pulling out of the garage ;-)

[@ModelA]

Just the weird angle. Thanks James!

[@scottmagyar]

Another awesome video, Paul curious on your car lift, do you like your 4 post lift or a 2 post lift or no preference when working on model A or Any Classic car or truck, thanks

[@ModelA]

I would prefer a 2-post, but we use what we have, right?

[@skidmarkscar9082]

I. Was under the impression that these old motors, needed 30w, oil with high zinc content, otherwise they would run camshaft lobes, and bearings. But notice this fella used full synthetic multi grade, so what’s the go with that.?.

[@ModelA]

Model As don't need all that.

[@craigweis1675]

These Ford engines are not stressed ... they are only 4 separate flat head, 10 horsepower [on a good day] old-style lawn mower engines sharing a common crankshaft. So why treat them like a performance engine? With 202 cubic inch- and 40 hp ~~~~ That's nothing ... and the reason why the engines are bulletproof. I take my 'A' up to 45 to 50 mph. But they could be flat to the floor across the salt flats all day long and be fine. I would not recommend it but it's possible.

[@richm.6220]

Don't forget the check the steering box, can't remember if the A has fluid filled shocks or not. I would not use the engine oil because it finds all the leaks and to think should be 3otw.

[@billyrey9679]

Tell me more about the oil pump retainer bolt? I need to perform the same service.

[@ModelA]

Call Bert's Model A center if you want one. Tell Steve you want one like you saw it in my video. He will hook you up!

[@kevinholland4156]

Be mindful; the retainer is a pipe thread in the block.

[@ModelA]

@@kevinholland4156 Yes. That's why I didn't just thread a bolt in there. Thanks for having my back!

[@nelsonchegezy3332]

@@ModelA Aren't there a few places on the Model A that use pipe threads such as the water outlet pipe? Sometimes we're not aware that it's a pipe thread. Maybe, you could mention that in an appropriate video? Thanks for sharing so much!!!

[@ModelA]

@@nelsonchegezy3332 Good point. I just take it for granted that the info is well known sometimes. Like how the banjo bolts are taper thread. Etc.

[@JesusTorres-qr1gz]

Very neat Paul, once again most kind of you for sharing it with us, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres

[@shoominati23]

All of those I've seen have those orange engines with the 2 rocker covers, not familar with that engine .. is it a special model?

[@ModelA]

You're kidding, right? That's the factory motor!

[@ryannickell6854]

The disgusting internet splenomegaly cry because dashboard architecturally share off a ablaze effect. tangible, lyrical buffet

[@paulmeunier157]

Is there a chrome shop in Southern Ca you could recommend? If not, what shop would you recommend? Thanks.

[@dennisc.1189]

Great video, Paul and your helper.

[@ModelA]

Thanks Dennis!