PC Q&A: 4-Piece Bathroom Rough-in & Venting MasterClass!

[@Futureawaits178]

Great video please make more

[@PlumbingsCool]

Thanks so much! 🙏 I promise you that I'm working on it!

[@ToastedToast21]

Nice video, sir. Brings me back to intermediate plumbing theory with you.

[@PlumbingsCool]

Ah, good times!!!

[@TjMaclean-mb4kx]

He is a very good shop teacher and isometric drawing too

[@PlumbingsCool]

Thank you! 🙏 You guys make it all worth the effort!

[@Inquisitor6321]

In the U.S. you cannot run a flat dry vent until you are 6 inches above the flood line of the highest fixture being vented.

[@PlumbingsCool]

I'm not sure which part of my video you're referring to, but here in Canada, an INDIVIDUAL dry vent can run horizontally on its way up to open air - although it does obscurely state that "all vents shall run as direct as possible to open air". The important thing is that the dry back vent connects to the trap arm ABOVE the drain's horizontal centerline (to minimize water from backing up into the vent). It's also important that any other connecting vents (thereby creating a Branch Vent, connect "above the flood level rim of the highest-connected fixture" (to prevent an unintended bypass). Otherwise, there are times when you'd NEED to run the vent horizontally below the FLR, such as when back-venting a bathtub or an island sink, which has its trap below the floor. The only exception where two vents CAN connect below the fixtures' FLR is for WET vents. Thanks for your feedback!

[@socem2301]

Legendary

[@PlumbingsCool]

🙏

[@peybak]

Hello, I was wondering if you can answer my question. I had an outside bib that needed to be replaced. When I cut it, the pipe retracted into the wall. Just my luck. I can pull it out with my finger (it's a 2 inch hole in the wall). I want to hold the pipe or clamp it for a few seconds to solder on a fitting. Is there a product that does this? I don't want to use regular clamps because they might mess up the pipe. The other option I guess is to break a little bit of the concrete. I would appreciate any tips!

[@PlumbingsCool]

Hi there, and thanks for inquiring. Hopefully I can help you out with your dilemma. In that situation, I often to using Vise Grip locking pliers (preferably the mini ones, which are smaller and thus take up less space) to lock onto the pipe and stop it from slipping into the wall once you pull it out, and as you attempt to solder it (it will also free up your other hand! 😊). I acknowledge that you don't want to damage the pipe, but if you open the vise grip wide enough so that it squeezes the pipe ever so snugly, you shouldn't have a problem with the pipe becoming damaged. You don't want to apply so much pressure so that the pipe becomes oval when you squeeze it; you only want it snug enough so that when you let go of pulling the pipe, there is enough resistance from the vise grip to stop the pipe from slipping into the wall. If purchasing mini Vise Grips, try to find rounded Jaws as opposed to the straight ones, which will do a better job at holding the pipe more uniformly and minimize potential pipe damage. Here's an example of the mini Vise Grips I'm referring to: images.app.goo.gl/Mx9PYLFJXuGZexL68 (and next time, don't cut off the pipe unless necessary; that's the beauty of copper pipe compared to plastic pipe: Copper fittings can be sweat off and easily replaces, whereas with the latter, you're stuck with cutting off portion of pipe.) 😉

[@peybak]

@@PlumbingsCool Thank you very much. I hope I can pull it off. I didn't know it would slip back into the wall to be honest. I won't do something like that ever again. I'll try the vice grip. Appreciate your advice.

[@PlumbingsCool]

Awesome. Let me know how it goes. Another perhaps quicker option might be to pull it out and temporarily wedge a piece of wood between the wall and the pipe. Just make sure the torch flame doesn't come into contact with the wood wedge to prevent it from catching fire. Good luck! 👍