Yes, it's alive and well, here in Canada, notably in single residential applications - despite common knowledge that if ignited, its fumes are fatally toxic. What's even worse is that CELL core ABS has become increasingly popular because its half the price of solid core (and half the durability!). However, ABS is typically prohibited for any commercial applications or multiple dwelling units/high rise - which require the installation of PVC System 15 to XFR if opting for plastic materials.

Thank you! 🙏...more to come!

LOL...I appreciate your enthusiasm. (Had to do a double-take on your comment; it's crazy how adding the word, 'the' can change the whole meaning!) 😂

Oh wow...seven months? Even that's a short period of time, even for these trashy valves. I'm wondering if it was an improper installation. In any event, it's hard for me to estimate how much it would be to replace without looking at all the parameters, but I'd shoot for a few hundred dollars, factoring in the service call, labour, and material. Just do make sure they cut out the punctured pipe and install a Tee fitting with a proper 1/2" x 1/4" OD. Compression valve (preferably a ball valve). Good luck!

Hi there. Hmmm....I'm not certain which valves you're referring to, other than the three-way service valves demonstrated in the video. If your manual specifies particular instructions, then I'd reason that it would be prudent to stick with their recommendations.

@@PlumbingsCool thanks for your replies! in this video the plumber shows a setup somewhat like mine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2S6q6uNZc2pb9U The hot and cold water lines each have 2 valves on them. One is a shutoff and the other is a service valve. Sorry if i'm using the wrong terms. I wish my setup was like yours with only 1 lever. Unfortunately whoever installed mine put the valves in upside down so I can't isolate the service valve since the cut off is AFTER it! So when i open my service valve, water runs like a faucet.

Ah, I think I see your dilemma! Yes, unfortunately it does sound the installer messed up your configuration. I see no other way to service your system, other than to have the order of those valves switched. To be clear, if you have two sets of valves on yours water lines connecting to your water heater (two on hot and two on cold), then the order should be, in the order of flow: COLD (into your heater): Isolation Valve >> Service Valve >> Water Heater HOT (coming out of your heater): Water Heater >> Service Valve >> Isolation Valve Hope you can sort it out with minimal pain. If you do, you may want to consider having them install the three way service valves like you see in the video...although either method is fine.

Hi there. I'm not sure how much that Bosch water heater shown in the video holds, but it's a lot less than three litres. That said, the amount you use really doesn't matter as long as you put in a volume that's AT LEAST equal to or greater than the volume capacity of your unit, because putting any less will prevent the liquid from circulating through the unit. Which is likely why your three-gallon heater requires four litres by the manufacturer. Don't worry about having TOO MUCH volume, because any excess will distribute into the bucket; it won't harm the unit. The most important thing is that you follow your manufacturer's instructions. I'm not sure what they mean by "cleaning solution", but I'm willing to bet that vinegar would be a lot safer (and healthier) than the likes of CLR or other scale removers. If you're in doubt, I suggest you call the manufacturer directly to ensure that vinegar would be safe for your unit. And also be sure circulate the solution with the heater UNPLUGGED. I once tried to descale an electric tea kettle by filling it with vinegar and boiling it, and it's an understatement to say that things didn't go so well (especially for the tea kettle, may it rest in peace!) 😂

Thanks!...YOU'RE the best! 🙏

Thank you very much! 🙏

No no!...thank YOU, sir! 🙏

Thanks so much! 🙏 I promise you that I'm working on it!

Thank you! Your kind of encouraging feedback is what it's all about! 🙏

Not IPC, UPC...but rather NPC: National Plumbing Code (of Canada)!

Thank you!...you're 100% right! I sometimes to use those terms a little too interchangeably! Noted, and thanks for the correction! 👍

It's interesting...I've never seen them referred to as "open vent faucets", but I'm pretty sure I know what you mean: The instant water heaters you're referring to are likely those point-of-use models that get installed right underneath the kitchen sink, and are useful for when small volumes of REALLY hot water are required (up to 210F), such as for making tea or Cup-a-Soup. They're often made by Inskerator. If you're referring to those, they often come with their own special faucet that allows water to escape through the faucet itself to relieve pressure in the inevitable event of thermal expansion. I've had those Instant Hot systems myself for several years, and I remember being puzzled the first time I witnessed my faucet sputtering water!...until I figured out what was going on (I don't think the manuals warn you about that!). In any event, I can't verify whether an expansion tank will work in this this case, because there's a possibility that those Instant Hots have check valves built into them (which would negate any upstream protection). But I can't be sure without further investigation or calling the company. It's probably still your best best to use one of the legacy faucets that are designed for the system, which will remove the need for additional protection via an expansion tank. And yes, I'm aware that those Insinkerator faucets are a pretty penny...especially when you start getting into the non-chrome finishes! 🤯 Hope this helpsl

@@PlumbingsCool I appreciate your input.

I'm not sure which part of my video you're referring to, but here in Canada, an INDIVIDUAL dry vent can run horizontally on its way up to open air - although it does obscurely state that "all vents shall run as direct as possible to open air". The important thing is that the dry back vent connects to the trap arm ABOVE the drain's horizontal centerline (to minimize water from backing up into the vent). It's also important that any other connecting vents (thereby creating a Branch Vent, connect "above the flood level rim of the highest-connected fixture" (to prevent an unintended bypass). Otherwise, there are times when you'd NEED to run the vent horizontally below the FLR, such as when back-venting a bathtub or an island sink, which has its trap below the floor. The only exception where two vents CAN connect below the fixtures' FLR is for WET vents. Thanks for your feedback!

Thank YOU!!! So very generous of you! 🙏 Only please do be sure to REAM the pipe before flaring...which I forgot to demonstrate in the video! 😔 All the best!

@@PlumbingsCool Yeah, this isn't my first trip around the hardware store. Being autistic, I just needed some visual images to reorient myself. But regardless, I wanted to show my appreciation for the otherwise direct and concise information. Being an expert in a number of different realms, it's always a challenge to convey all of the information one knows about a topic because it's so habitual.

Oh wow!...thanks so much! 🙏🙏 🙏 . Yes, absolutely, wholeheartedly agree on the deburring prior to flaring. Unfortunately, in this early video, I was so focused on getting accustomed to capturing it on camera, I forgot to debur! 😔 I've heard of the Nylog stuff, which HVAC folks swear by, although I'm not too sure it's approved for potable water lines. Thank you again so much for your generosity...humbly appreciated!

Yeah, it's pretty quick. There are two speeds to control the extrusion.

Wholeheartedly agree with you about deburring (which I forgot to demonstrate!). 3/16th is awfully close to 1/8th when eyeballing it. As long as that nut can slip past the flare, you're golden!

@@PlumbingsCool It was still a good video . I also like to put a small amount of Nylog blue on the pipe before I flare it as it makes for a better flare.

Thanks very much! Yes, I've heard of the Nylon Blue from the HVAC crowd, who all swear by it. However, not sure it's approved for plumbing (particularly potable water applications). Thanks for the feedback!

Fantastic!! 👍

Sure thing: It's not UPC or IPC, but rather Ontario and Canadian National Building Code. Specifically: 7.5.2.1.(1): A. Soil or Waste pipe may serve as a wet vet provided that: (b) the number of wet vented water closets does not exceed two, (c) when two water closets are installed, they are connected at the same level to a vertical part of the stack by means of a double fitting in accordance with Table 7.2.4.5., (d) the water closets are installed downstream of all other fixtures. Hope this helps!

@@PlumbingsCool I am extremely thankful for your quick and informative reply. I would really appreciate it if you can lend me two more minutes of your expertise and teach me the logical reason for connecting it on downstream?

My pleasure...that's exactly why this channel exists! ☺️ So the logic with toilets needing to be downstream of every other fixture is because they're often the biggest disrupters in the plumbing system, due to the large volume of water they discharge into the drainage system (typically around 6 litres per flush these days). This is why I often refer to them as "the big elephants in the room"... Because there are always special code rules for toilets, and they are often handled differently than other fixtures. Many people think that toilets are vented to protection of their own sake. Although a properly vented toilet DOES certainly help with proper flushing, the REAL benefit of venting toilets is for the protection of OTHER fixture traps! In the case of a wet vent for example, having a toilet UPSTREAM (or before) the connection of other traps means that the toilet's discharge will be passing by those traps. And the aforementioned high volume runs the risk of creating enough negative pressure to suck out the downstream fixtures' trap seals as it passes by. So placing toilets as the last fixture in a wet vented group minimizes the likelihood of interfering with other respective fixtures (and also why any wet-vented toilets in the group must is limited to a maximum of two, and must be connected symmetrically: so each toilet doesn't disrupt the other one.) That's a very brief short answer, but I hope it gives you a general idea of the requirements!

@@PlumbingsCool Thanks once again. This explanation really helped. I have one more question though. Why isn't the double pipe system used, one pipe for soil and one separate system for waste?

I'm aware that some parts of the world separate their sanitary drainage between one which emits human waste (toilet, bidets, urinals, etc.) and others which are not designed to. However, here in Canada, any fixture or collection that is NOT storm water (rainfall, snowfall, snow melt, or ground water) is deemed to be SANITARY waste. The sanitary waste is delivered either to the water treatment plant (in municipalities) or to a septic system and leaching (in rural areas, such as farmland). Any storm water may discharge into the building's STORM drainage system, which will discharge either onto the property itself or into a nearby body of water such as a lake or river, because it's considered relatively-harmless clear water waste. Therefore, in effect we too have a "two-pipe" system, except we discern them to be SANITARY and STORM. And the two MUST be kept separate...and the discharge of sanitary into storm is a huge no-no for obvious reasons. Personally, it never made sense to me to have a separate two-pipe system for sanitary systems, because although toilets are definitely made for human waste, it's completely unknown what may be discharging into those "non-sanitary" fixtures, which I'd argue can sometimes be nastier than what a toilet discharges (think: a kitchen sink being exposed to salmonella or e-coli when preparing meats.) Therefore, in my opinion, it should ALL be sanitary, whether there are human solids or otherwise.

Cool. Have you tried shutting it recently?

@@PlumbingsCool not yet but im pretty sure it will leak at some point

It probably won't leak if you don't touch it...the problem is they it may be ceased up and not shut when you most need it. But who knows; maybe you'll be one of the lucky few! 🤞

Hi there, and thanks for inquiring. Hopefully I can help you out with your dilemma. In that situation, I often to using Vise Grip locking pliers (preferably the mini ones, which are smaller and thus take up less space) to lock onto the pipe and stop it from slipping into the wall once you pull it out, and as you attempt to solder it (it will also free up your other hand! 😊). I acknowledge that you don't want to damage the pipe, but if you open the vise grip wide enough so that it squeezes the pipe ever so snugly, you shouldn't have a problem with the pipe becoming damaged. You don't want to apply so much pressure so that the pipe becomes oval when you squeeze it; you only want it snug enough so that when you let go of pulling the pipe, there is enough resistance from the vise grip to stop the pipe from slipping into the wall. If purchasing mini Vise Grips, try to find rounded Jaws as opposed to the straight ones, which will do a better job at holding the pipe more uniformly and minimize potential pipe damage. Here's an example of the mini Vise Grips I'm referring to: images.app.goo.gl/Mx9PYLFJXuGZexL68 (and next time, don't cut off the pipe unless necessary; that's the beauty of copper pipe compared to plastic pipe: Copper fittings can be sweat off and easily replaces, whereas with the latter, you're stuck with cutting off portion of pipe.) 😉

@@PlumbingsCool Thank you very much. I hope I can pull it off. I didn't know it would slip back into the wall to be honest. I won't do something like that ever again. I'll try the vice grip. Appreciate your advice.

Awesome. Let me know how it goes. Another perhaps quicker option might be to pull it out and temporarily wedge a piece of wood between the wall and the pipe. Just make sure the torch flame doesn't come into contact with the wood wedge to prevent it from catching fire. Good luck! 👍

Thank YOU so much! 🙏 It's the likes of your comment which compels me to want to make more videos!

Glad it was helpful!

Pleasure!

Sure. Because you say so. 😁 kzbin.infoAVcZL3ZPXJ8?feature=share

LOL! I've never gotten that one before!...I'll take it, and I'll wear it as a badge of honour...I absolutely LOVE Jordan Peterson! I refer to him as my spiritual father! 🦞

LOL...happens to to the best of us. One note I should add is, is to debur the pipe before flaring...which I outright forgot to demonstrate in this early video! 😔

You're not wrong about deburring ...to be honest, I forgot to demonstrate it because I was too distracted with the recording components of these early videos. 🤷

Hi there! Unfortunately, I don't typically do one-on-one consultations. Please feel free to share your challenge or concern and we'll see if we can help out!

....Do you mean in my video, or in your comment? 🤔

Sorry, only one thumb down per account. Take it up with KZbin. 😝

Thank you! Empowering you is what it's ALL about! Cool Deadpool avatar, BTW!

WOW! All I can say is THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, for what is undoubtedly one of the kindest, most generous comments I've ever received! ♥ 🙏 (I kid you not!) A the end of the day, bettering and lifting others in whatever way possible is what really matters (plumbing or otherwise), and it's reception such as yours which is really what drives me to make these videos. All that matters is that you find them useful, and I can't express how grateful I am to know that. God bless you! 🙏

Thanks so very much...too kind! 🙏 Only please do yourself a favour by using a large enough tip if you're brazing larger pipe, such as the 1-1/4" manifold I demonstrated in the video - which will save you TONS of time. That tip was the largest I had on hand that day, and had a hard time keeping the pipe hot enough. Thanks again for watching!

🙏

Gained a sub by the way

Hi, it's interesting, as someone else reached out to me last week with a very similar question, and what I think is the same model water heater. Therefore, I'm going to repost the response I gave them. (however, the short answer is: Always check with the manufacturer's instructions!): It's difficult for me to assess your situation. Traditional check valves are usually noticeable by following the water lines and looking for them that way. Some recirculation pumps have built-in check valves which may be hidden in the pump's outlet. Your best bet is probably to check your unit's and equipment's owner's manual, to get a clearer idea of the requirements. The bottom line is that if the heating water is getting trapped in any way (there is no avenue for expansion), then you will need an expansion tank to accommodate the expansion. Some signs might be intermittently-leaking temperature & pressure relief valves, as I demonstrated in this Short: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnimgXiuiturgtUsi=vLhq8Wx_vt0PVUfn Hope this helps!

Awesome! Thanks for your time!

Yes, it absolutely does, depending on two factors: the Fixture Unit load imposed onto the continuous vent, as well as the continuous vent's Total Developed Length, measured from the most upstream fixture (the Lavatory, in this case), to a greater source of air (Vent Stack, Stack Vent, Header, or Open Air). This is done using Table 7.5.8.3. in Ontario Code, and 2.5.8.3. in Canadian National Code. For example, an 1-1/2" Continuous Vent can range between as little as 8 Fixture Units up to a maximum length of 30 meters ( ~100 feet), or a maximum of 60 FU's up to 4.5 meters (~15 feet). If that 1-1/2" Continuous Vent pipe is carrying no more than 2 FU's, then there is NO LIMIT on length. Hope this helps!

Hmmm...I'm not sure how that would work, given that it needs to push the flare outward, which would be inhibited by any restrictions. But, if you could figure that out, perhaps you'd be sitting on a multi-million idea!

@@PlumbingsCool - The concept is working in my mind, the design and prototype will follow. I'll revert when I am ready with a proof of concept,

Awesome! I encourage you to go for it, and genuinely wish you the utmost success and riches! 👍

Here you go: Note that if you're brazing larger pipe (such as this 1-1/4" pipe shown in the video), you will save yourself a world of pain (and time) by using an Acetylene tip larger than the one I demonstrate here (which was the only tip I had in hand that day). kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHm0dqFppJWSeJIsi=dgFNrnwC6xv9Gi3z

@@PlumbingsCool thanks. Great content.

It's difficult for me to assess your situation. Traditional check valves are usually noticeable by following the water lines and looking for them that way. Some recirculation pumps have built-in check valves which may be hidden in the pump's outlet. Your best bet is probably to check your unit's and equipment's owner's manual, to get a clearer idea of the requirements. The bottom line is that if the heating water is getting trapped in any way (there is no avenue for expansion), then you will need an expansion tank to accommodate the expansion. Some signs might be intermittently-leaking temperature & pressure relief valves, as I demonstrated in this Short: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnimgXiuiturgtUsi=vLhq8Wx_vt0PVUfn Hope this helps!

@@PlumbingsCool thanks for getting back with me!

Thanks so much! 🙏 Glad you found it useful!

Thank you! 🙏 You guys make it all worth the effort!

Thanks so much! 🙏 Delighted that it was helpful for you!

The pleasure's mine, thank you! Next time I'm back in Italy 🇮🇹, I will have to come up and visit your beautiful country to fulfill my goal of doing a lap on the Nurburgring! 🇩🇪 🏎

@@PlumbingsCool Please, hurry up to visit the beautiful country before it is too late.

LOL...unfortunately we in Canada share the same dilemma - likely worse! Stay hopeful, my friend!

Stay hopeful!

The trick's in the tempering of the hard pipe! Thanks for your feedback!

If your pipe measures 3/4" ID, then it would be typical to what plumbers call 3/4"...and should measure 7/8" OD. Therefore, a simple 3/4" copper coupling/adapter/reducer from the plumbing supplier or even big box store should do the trick. Nothing wrong with brazing, but if you can braze, then you can surely solder...just need flux, Lead-free solder and much less heat. If you DO braze, be very cautious about connecting copper to any brass, because you'll need special flux to get the Brass to stick...and too much heat on the Brass will cause it to disintegrate before your eyes...like Thanos's snap! I'm really overdue for a proper soldering video, but in the meantime, feel free to check out around the 14th minute of the following video for a quick primer on soldering. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmiyp3djetSbp8ksi=HJQkzCTvXntj3NLW Also, I'm not sure where in the world you live, but it's typically not a good idea to run water lines in the attic if you live in a location that's subject to freezing temperatures at any point in the year. And adding insulation will NOT help unless you add a proper heat source next to the pipe and within the insulation (such as heat tracing cable) to keep the lines above freezing temperatures at all times. Good luck!

@@PlumbingsCool I’m in Texas the pex a will be insulated in the attic. Thank you for the response. The only issue is that I’m gonna be soldering against gravity. But I’m gonna practice before doing it.

Ah, Texas...Nice! Definitely on my short list list of places to consider if we ever move down to the US in the impending future. Regarding the upside-down soldering. Don't be too concerned about it: As long as the joint is cleaned, fluxed, and heated properly, the magic of capillary action will do its job and suck in the solder. Think about when a roll of toilet paper sitting on the counter ends up getting all soaked throughout when some water spills onto the counter. Same scientific principle. Just be sure to heat the OVERLAP area between the pipe and fitting (not just the pipe) until the MATERIAL (not the flame!) is hot enough to immediately melt the solder to the touch...then run a bead of solder all the way around until the joint won't suck in any more. You'll know this when you get a consistent drip. Do some practice to gain some confidence as you suggested, and I have no doubt you'll be fine! 👊