PCB Laminator

Read more: www.electroschematics.com/9631...
Forward to 6:40 if you want to see it disassembled.‎
I decided to buy one cheap laminator to transform it into a PCB laminator. So I chose the $25 Attalus 400 model that unfortunately is not produced anymore.

[@mikaelengstrom1970]

Original temperature will do fine, it's all about the speed.. Since the rollers have very little contact with the laminate, it needs to go really slow.I use a dirt cheap laminator and removed the original motor, since all cheap laminators use synchronous motors, which you can not speedregulate properly.I got an geared stepper motor and the Easydriver board from Ebay, cheap, 10$ for all. Then drive the easydriver with a 555 timer and a pot to regulate speed. For a good result in 1 pass it needs to run about 1 inch/minute.With a geared stepper motor and Easydriver in microstep setting you can go as slow as you want...

[@benfischer6601]

Could I ask, what gearing did you use to be able to drive the laminator slowly enough?

[@Dajosco]

What type/brand of paper you use? Thanks for the video.

[@sureshlingabathina]

What is the PCB copper clad board thickness I hope it is more than 1mm, does this unit taking more than 1 mm thickness? what the maximum thickness this machine can take

[@arabiccola]

The toner was not fixed after the transfer? It seems to have got smudged.

[@arabiccola]

What kind of paper are you using?

[@Berghiker]

What is your PCB thickness? Did you modify the height of the rollers for the PCB thickness 1.6mm?

[@kksegam]

nice video thank you for sharing

[@jithin_isaac]

Hey what kind of paper are you using ?

[@f.h7871]

what sort of paper you used there bro?

[@pasimakila6567]

Why not to make interrupter for motor to make it in one go ? I mean circuit that switches motor on and off like PWM. That way PCB gets hot enough to make toner to transfer in one go.

[@demianxldc]

why no put a reverse button?

[@davidferguson8478]

He is using yellow toner transfer paper you can get it on Ebay and on Amazon as well

[@ademirdemir]

very good..

[@OmarMekkawy]

nice job what about using micro controller and some sensors to repeat this process itself ?

[@dadanet67]

Or make the motor go slover to get temperature high more rapidly ?

[@jeanious2009]

Omar Mekkawy I agree...make it go backward/reverse once the whole board is one the opposite side and then repeat 6x without the need of a human hand touching it. Damn sometimes I feel like we are still living in the 19th century.

[@OmarMekkawy]

jeanious2009 hhhhh you are right also we can measure the temp of the PCB using temp. sensor and micro controller and using buzzer to inform the human that the process is completed

[@TheRealViniciusSilva]

Are you using special transfer Paper?

[@jeanious2009]

Vinicius Silva I tried using Glossy paper from Kinko's but my Brother Laser printer would not take it. It would jam every single time and cause the paper to melt horribly. So I decided to try it with regular white paper for laser printers and that worked out great for me. I used my iron and it came out better than this guy's pcb laminator.

[@TheRealViniciusSilva]

@jeanious2009 What model is your laser Printer?

[@TheRealViniciusSilva]

jeanious2009 What model is your laser Printer?

[@jeanious2009]

Its a cheap BROTHER HL-2270DW , very fast printing but that is normal from a laser printer. I recently purchased a Fellowes laminator on ebay as well for 25.00, so hopefully now the results are better

[@tohopes]

+jeanious2009 How were the results with plain laser paper and your el-cheapo laminator?

[@red2]

What about using an iron and ironing board ?

[@devciety1596]

it sucks, im trying to do it right now.

[@LiezerZero]

I'd rather just CNC my PCBs to avoid using chemicals that are some what hazardous.

[@stanislavtihohod]

FR-4 dust is a way more hazardous than any etching chemistry.

[@devciety1596]

Technically the dust goes into the acid...