Pennsylvania Railroad Steam Superpower: Q1(4-6-4-4) & Q2(4-4-6-4) Duplexes and J1. BLI & NJCB.

[@tommythomason6187]

A trio of monster engines rounding a bend with a big train. This is an awesome recreation of what the real thing must have looked like. Great scenery, too.

[@truebras]

It is very unlikely that they ran this way. Most likely a Q2 with J1 at end as pusher going uphill. But in the world of HO, it is fine.

[@officialpennsyjoe]

Man, if only my Q1 was fixed...

[@truebras]

The NJCB was made by Daiyoung. It is an early Korean brass e.I. terrible. See in this video description what fixes and upgrades I did in this model. As mater of fact, this is the second of 3 Q1 that I worked. They all suffer the same problems. They were made single small run too. Only 100 bullet nose and 100 flat nose. Possible, only Key made another even smaller run. So, we are talking about even less models that PRR S1. That was made by 4 brass manufacturers.

[@officialpennsyjoe]

@@truebras I remembered your first video. I have Q1 currently with a broken guide for the pivot joint that guides the piston shaft into and out of the right rear cylinder. It seems as though the locomotive binded and broke the soldering joint that holds that guild linkage piece to the cylinders. Do you know if thay can be fixed?

[@truebras]

@@officialpennsyjoe , Looks that you got common problems of this model. The binding could be from eccentric got loose and off of ideal position from the wheel and bind against the linkage of other drivers. Or the large gear worn out and created a bind in the gearbox. The gear in the driver axle is made of machined PCB, yes the same material that makes circuit board and very fragile, special if you use the wrong oil. Of 3 models of Q1 that I worked, 2 had failure of the gearbox. So, the solution is replacing the whole 2 sets of gearboxes or replace the drivers gears. In the model of video, I replaced them with a pair of Samhongsa gearboxes. NWSL had listed this gear for it. In any event, if you find out that you need to replace a gear, replace both or replace both gearbox. Are you at Pennsylvania Railroad Modelers FB group? If you are can you send pics of problem with valve guide rod? Please, wait few minutes until I post this video over there. Can you

[@officialpennsyjoe]

@@truebras I am not a part of their group, but I can join.

[@truebras]

@@officialpennsyjoe, Did you get the bullet or flat nose? Is it panted or not?

[@dalecherne5377]

What did you use for the smoke generator? Seuthe?

[@joepinto509]

It's probably a mth 1.0 smoke unit...

[@SouRwy4501Productions]

I wonder what turn radius those engines are rated for? I’m thinking about getting a J1

[@truebras]

J1 have much smaller distance between the 1st and 5th main drivers. They also have the 3rd driver blind. Either for BLI or WSM in brass they will negotiate 18 in radius curves. No same can be said about Q1 nor Q2 which I recommend 24 in or higher.

[@SouRwy4501Productions]

@@truebras that’s awesome! I operate a minimum of 18 inch radius curves so a j1 could fit on my railroad.

[@truebras]

@@SouRwy4501Productions I any case, get in with BLI about minimum required radius for their J1. What I said is an estimation. I usually run my models in a large layout with 26+ in curves. The BLI J1 is one of its best models. It has great pulling power, but because it is one of first BLI products, it is a bit crude. It has boiler and tender shells made of plastic.