Perfect Insulation and Expansion Gaps in Model Railroad Track

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

See the entire process of this expansion of my layout here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYHFiqhqhNaNd9E

[@bigalvision1782]

Ron, unless you are addicted to those fragile little cut off wheels, you may want to check out Dremel part numbers EZ402 that uses 1.5 inch cutting wheels EZ456 & EZ 409 (Thin Cut).

[@magnificus8581]

That insulation is great - never seen that! It will help hide my unsightly gaps.

[@swats73]

This has been just what i was looking for, as i forgot 3 or 4 peco insulated rail joints when laying track. This is a much better option than ripping up sections to fit the missed joints 🚇

[@centeroftheearthmining4095]

Seeing your video about this makes me feel better. I’ve done this on my layout about a month ago! Thanks Ron!!!

[@davidcurtis5398]

Started doing this when a friend showed me about 20 years ago..

[@Trainmaster909]

I’ve never heard of insulating track like this before. I always use an insulated rail joiner trimmed down. I like your idea much better, it allows me to insulate between sections. Next time I need to make a gap I will definitely use this video as a guide!

[@davidcurtis5398]

it is a very good way and I have been using this for many years...After painting and what ever other work you do on the track, you will never see these joints...

[@dennisnicholson952]

Hey, Ron! I have seen the method for insulating rail sections years ago in MRR magazine but seeing you actually execute the process makes how to do it much easier to comprehend. This sure beats out those clunky old plastic rail joiners of days gone by.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, I should have addressed insulated tail joiners. Theybare an eyesore to say the least.

[@riogrande5761]

I am using plastic insulated joiners but they are of the Peco variety which are very fine, similar to metal rail joiners so will not be unsightly and should blend in when painted. They are not an eyesore. Atlas versions are I agree.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

I’m glad I found this so quickly. I’m laying track for the first time 25 years and I accidentally used normal joiners instead of insulated, so I’m going to use some of the tips here.

[@joshuariddensdale2126]

Expansion and contraction is something I'd have to take into consideration when I do build a layout. It gets very hot and humid in the summer, and cold and dry in the winter. And while I don't know much about DCC, I'd like to go that route.

[@AbelG8781]

I was the same way with DCC years back but now it just makes sense. Takes time and lots of research but dedication will get your layout going smoothly! And yes, please allow for expansion gaps, I learned that the hard way on my Unitrack layout down here in the Gulf, humidity is a track killer!

[@willsagraves6535]

Super helpful video, Ron! I used your lightbulb technique to set up my DCC wiring. I didn't think to insulate each block so when I got a short, it looked like a Christmas tree under my benchwork lol. This video comes super handy as it confirms that I fixed my track shortages correctly. Looking forward to the next video! Thanks

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

LOL, I'm glad you got that worked out.

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

Very nicely explained! Added to my notes of 'key things to remember'.

[@melkitson]

Thank you. No need to have to conform to rail sections. Perfect when using flex track.

[@johnhermanson5249]

Once a switch is installed, this method is easy. After I cut, I slip in a shim of styrene to prevent gap from closing. Also, old style tortoise machines had a habit of closing their internal contacts before the switch points moved. So I'd open the tortoise and shave off copper from the circuit board so they would make contact later.

[@chrisridd9423]

That’s a much neater way of isolating two rails than using an isolating rail joiner.

[@georgemorris8766]

To cut the gap I use the Dremel Diamond cut off wheel as it is thinner and makes a smaller gap. Just use smaller styrene for the filler.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks for the tip. I've had these cut off wheels for years and didn't look in to others. I will check those out.

[@DGModelworks]

Good stuff Ron! Demonstrated and explained perfectly. Thanks!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks, Deryk. Greatly appreciated.

[@LogicRailTech]

A PSA - ALWAYS, ALWAYS wear eye protection when using the cutoff disks. I’ve had them shatter and hit my protective glasses!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, for sure.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I found a complete face covering mask on line and it is great. No fogging and you breath from the bottom...Wish I had had it during Covid because it is a mask and would have freaked people out...

[@riogrande5761]

Yes, I've heard of people cutting gaps to insulate. I've used a Dremel cutting disc alot and rail gets hot when cut, so I've gotten into the habit of using heat sinks protect the ties.

[@davidcurtis5398]

If your rail is getting that hot, you are not letting the tool do the work and you are pushing to hard. I found a metal cut off wheel from Micro Mark that lets me use a Dremel without slanting the tool and the blades don't shatter as far as I have seen and I have one that is about 5 years old.

[@riogrande5761]

@@davidcurtis5398 This is my third moderately large HO layout and I've cut a lot of rail with my Dremel. I used the thicker cutoff disks because the thin ones are rather fragile; the thicker cutoff discs do cause more friction so the rail just gets a bit hot and I toss a heat sink on as a precaution to keep the plastic nearby from getting soft - not melted (correct first comment). Mostly I use my old Radio Shack heat sinks for soldering. I know the mantra about letting the tool do the work since I bought my first trusty Dremel back around 1982. I'll have to check out the Micro Mark discs - if they are big enough I could cut without angling the Dremel. Mostly I cut rail before the track is install.

[@davidcurtis5398]

@@riogrande5761 I've been doing layout for almost 45 years and the discs from Micro Mark ( the metal ones ) are almost indestructible. The one I am now using is over 3 years old and I use it for almost anything. You might try it - you might like it. Product #84611X2

[@randydobson1863]

HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS RON FRIENDS RANDY

[@davidcurtis5398]

I cue expansion joints about every 5 feet. I always cut them on an angle. This gives the track room to move but will keep contact at all times. I really don't have to worry about conductivity at all since there is no power in my track. I cut these after all track is down and just before I ballast track.

[@AbelG8781]

Awesome vid!

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

good vid

[@gvet47]

This video made me laugh about expansion and contraction. In Albuquerque sidewalks can expand in the heat and blocks will buckle up several feet. But they never go back down when it is cold. 🤣

[@alderusdmc]

Do you, by any chance, have (or are planning) any videos about either Bachmann's E-Z Track or Kato's Unitrack? Perhaps a review of this style of track?

[@davidcurtis5398]

Yuck...Don't like either one as they don't look prototype to me and are expensive.

[@philbroncucia5106]

quick question - do you fill the expansion gaps with styrene as well?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

No, they need soace to expand

[@kd6lvp]

So you said you were looking at track detection, what were you planning on using? LCC (RRCirkits), Digitrax, something else? Also I hope you will talk about metal wheels and resistor wheels too. Thanks for the video. Sadly I wish I saw this video earlier. I used a lot of isolator rail joiners.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That is yet to be determined, but I am leaning toward an Arduino based system. It will definitely be current sensing with resistor wheels, and I wil be installing resistors on N scale wheels myself. I already have the resistors.

[@kd6lvp]

@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks... Looking forward to it. My fleet is somewhat big so I have a lot of wheels to change out and resisters to install myself.

[@randygates364]

Great video as always! I take it that you do not use the styrene to fill the cuts on the expansion joints? Seems like that would defeat the purpose…

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That is correct on both points.

[@terrylaw3614]

Thank you Randy and Ron - I had the same question! This clarifies it!

[@davidcurtis5398]

here in the states a lot of us have the train room in the basement. i have mine there and have heat and AC. I keep the temp at 70 degrees year round with a humidity of 35% and don't have any problems...

[@scottcarlson5424]

Do you have a source for styrene?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

There is a ton of Evergreen styrene available on Amazon. Just search for evergreen styrene sheet/strip/rod/etc. You can get the same Amazon prices and experience if you go through my page, Amazon.com/shop/ronstrainsnthings

[@randydobson1863]

Hi Ron & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Ron & Friends Randy & Ron You u OK MY Friends Randy & New Video please and Thanks

[@jamescraft672]

Do you need gaps in both rails for DCC?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes.

[@AbelG8781]

Yes. Both rails on both ends of that track section no matter how far apart the gaps are.

[@wyattcraig8731]

wyatt like train