Perfect Set-ups & Tools for Spoke Lacing when Building Bike Wheels

[@JimLangley1]

★ WATCH this video next to learn about using driver bits for speeding up spoke lacing when building wheels kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZKlp6N5qr2cnbM

[@SkipMontanaro]

Nice video. An I missing something about the EVT Mulfinger tool? It looks more-or-less like a nail set to me.

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching and the question Skip, appreciate it. It definitely looks like a nail set, that's a good point (pun intended). The Mulfinger's a popular tool for pro wheelbuilders because it's a nice machined tool that holds really well when you're lacing wheels so you don't drop the nipples and can thread them on too. The taper on the end is sized just right to hold well yet also release well. When you spend all day lacing wheels, a fine tool made for the job can be worth spending a little more on. Also (I'm not sure this is still true), they used to come in different lengths, which was nice for taller rims. Thanks again!

[@BenitoAndito]

Jim is the Bob Ross of bikes and wheel building

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for the laugh, b b 😀 I tried painting - a bike of course, and learned quickly I’m no Bob Ross.

[@ed0078]

Have no idea who Bob Ross is

[@JimLangley1]

@@ed0078 Here's his KZbin channel, Ed. He has about 6 million subscribers even though he passed away in 1995: kzbin.infovideos

[@sylvainmichaud2262]

At 4:44 It reminded me of the first time in my life I grabbed one. ☺️ That was a very long time ago. Seriously, your video are always a gold mine of information. Thanks.

[@JimLangley1]

I'm happy you enjoyed that part of the video, Sylvain and I really appreciate you watching and your kind words. Thanks a lot!

[@DrunkDrynasty]

@jimlangley1 Hi Jim, I’m so glad I found your channel. It’s not just the best wheel building channel, it’s one of the best instructional series of ANY craft I’ve seen. Clear and simple instructions, in-depth-details but succinct format, all while being funny and engaging. I’m a total newbie and after watching a few of your videos I am getting really excited to give this a try myself. I have a couple questions if you don’t mind. Do you have a preference between straight pull vs J-bend? And if so, why? Do you have any top picks for a lightweight alloy gravel/cyclocross rims? I really like the HED Emporia Pro, but I bet there are tons of good ones out there that I don’t know about. If using lightweight, bladed spokes like Sapim CX-Ray, do you recommend using a stronger spoke on the rear drive-side, like the Sapim CX-Sprint or Race? or would you keep them all the same? I’m only 175lbs and not so powerful yet, so I’m not sure if it’s necessary for me. Yikes! Sorry for all the questions.

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching and the great comment Jürgsten, appreciate it and welcome to my channel - I'm happy to hear you're finding it helpful! To answer your questions, I usually build with J-bend spokes because I typically build with hubs that take them and because J-bends are easy to use and reliable - the majority of wheels are built with them. However, if someone wants to build a straight pull/direct pull hub wheel then I would build with the correct straight pull spokes for it (some hub companies make direct pull spokes for their hubs and I'd use them). Both spoke types work fine as long as they're quality components. You can run into some straight pull wheels on which the spokes turn and need to be held with a spoke holder. This is not usually an issue with J-bend hubs and spokes which is one of the reasons they're the most-used. Sapim CX-Ray spokes are strong enough to build with the same spokes on both sides. I usually don't vary spokes on the left and right but just go with good quality on both sides - same spokes all around. You can certainly experiment with different spokes to save weight, etc. but it complicates the build and you probably won't notice much difference riding the wheel. But it's up to the wheel builder how he wants to design the wheel and what components he wants to use of course. That's part of the fun of wheel building 😊Hope this is helpful and thanks enjoy your wheel building!

[@benc8386]

Great video! I really hope I remember to make a tapered tool like that the next time I'm building a wheel. I usually use another spoke and thread it in just a couple of turns but this is much less satisfactory.

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching, Ben and I'm glad you liked the nipple feeder tool idea. When I was first told about this by another wheelbuilder who worked at Velomax I didn't think it would work, but it does for both feeding the nipples and threading them a few turns on the spokes. I did use the threaded end of a spoke for feeding spokes for a long time - from fear of dropping nipples inside rims. But, that slows you down having to thread them on and off each time. I think you'll like the pointed spoke feeder tool when you try it. Thanks again!!

[@benc8386]

@@JimLangley1 If the spokes are a little on the short side and the rim is double walled (which they nearly all are these days) I find I have to use something after the first round of spokes or so. Yes have often lost nipples between the walls and had to shake the rim until they come out!

[@JimLangley1]

@@benc8386 I have built a ton of wheels that required nipple washers, Ben. Talk about misery - it's so easy to drop the tiny, thin washers into the rims and to get them out can take forever - they're often stainless, too so you can't use a magnet. I am happy that I don't have to use them much at all any more.

[@erik_dk842]

How about skewers? They are a little thicker than toothpicks, which was mentioed in the original lacing video?

[@JimLangley1]

@@erik_dk842 Thanks for watching and the question, Erik. Any tool that has a tapered end that fits tightly inside the nipples should work to hold them for lacing. Just be sure to try it out by pushing some nipples onto the end of the tool and making sure that they can't fall off if you bump them on the rim when putting them in. If the taper was the wrong shape and didn't grip the nipple, that would let them fall off and that's when they could end up inside hollow rims and you don't want that to happen. Hope this helps and thanks again!

[@davidburgess741]

I built a front wheel out of a vintage Campagnolo hub and vintage single wall Araya single wall aluminium rim. The spokes kept tightening and tightening, but never reached as much tension as I would have liked. I think the rim was compressing more than average. Add nipple washers, really hard to reach spoke nipples to spoke threads. Months later I experienced a rather violent speed wobble at 33mph. It actually made the stem turn in the steer tube slightly! Now that bike never did that before! I think speed wobble may be a good topic for a new video. The wheel is not the whole system, but even with great trueness, and roundness, this happened to me. I cut the spokes out and saved that hub! Got to change the resonant frequency somehow and will rebuild the wheel with a double wall rim. I can't risk a repeat wobble! The bike looks kind of funny with the 16 spoke bladed wheel I stuck onto it!

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching and for the really great comment, David. What you shared is sure to help others working on vintage rims. It's nice that today most rims are box section and much easier to tension properly than the simpler rims that were standard in the 1970s. "Soft wheels" (that need more spoke tension) can be a cause of speed wobble. If it turned your stem, that had to be a violent and dangerous wobble. I'm glad you didn't crash. I have quite a bit of experience with speed wobble both as a racer and as a mechanic, and have written about it several times over the years in Bicycling Magazine and my Jim's Tech Talk weekly column on RoadBikeRider.com. Here are my most recent articles - they received a bunch of great comments and lots of tips. In case you're interested or others are about the causes and cures for speed wobble, they're sure to help. Part 1: www.roadbikerider.com/avoiding-bicycle-speed-wobble/ Park 2: www.roadbikerider.com/comprehensive-list-speed-wobble-causes/ It would be a great subject for a video and I'll think about how I could do it. I'm more setup to do in-the-shop type vids than outdoors, action ones. But if I can figure it out it would a good one for sure. Thanks again for the great comment, David, appreciate it!

[@davidburgess741]

@@JimLangley1 I read the articles you referenced. My analysis is that I hit an unusually rough section of road at 33mph with a softish front wheel in excellent true and roundness, on my standard Columbus tubes Dave Moulton. My knees may have already been on the top tube for aero purposes, but were batted away by the violent shaking. Also I'm well over 200lbs, far more than 45 years ago and the stem is max height on the A-1. Will stay under 33mph and rebuild the 36 spoke Campagnolo low flange hub wheel with Weinman L-18 double wall rim, Sapim Leader spokes 284mm, 1mm on the short side, and really put some tension to bear 3 cross. Mavic Mod E-3 rims not available. Closest match to back rim. Your tips are helpful in building good wheels! Crashed into by another rider from behind, same ride! The Moulton survived unscathed through some miracle, but I'll have a bit of time off the bike!

[@JimLangley1]

@@davidburgess741 I’m glad my articles were helpful and that these wheel videos are too. Sounds like a good plan to stop that wobble and I’m happy to hear your Moulton survived the crash. Best wishes for a speedy recovery, David!

[@torquecanyon8424]

Thanks so much Jim. Really very helpful. Maybe you can help me on how to determine the right length of the rear wheel. Until now I still don't get it. I look forward to your answer or anyone can suggest. God speed!

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching, Toque, I'm happy you found the video helpful. Here's a video of mine to help you get your spoke length right: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqe5ZXl7Z7urkM0 Thanks again!

[@godfellas483]

Jim...I'm sorry if you already answered this question, I have not found it as of yet. Can you recommend a online single source for Hub, Rim, and Spokes so that an inexperienced wheel builder won't make mistakes on compatible parts? I am in the middle of a project for my 29'r and already bought the wrong spokes once. There are no bike shops anywhere near me. Thanks

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching and the great question. Since you're working on a bike, usually the easiest way to choose wheel components is based on what's already on the bike, since those parts were compatible. Have you tried that approach? And you said you bought the wrong spokes once but you didn't explain what was wrong about them. The most common problem is getting the wrong length spokes. That usually comes from getting the measurements or calculations for spoke length wrong. But I'm not sure that's the problem you ran into. If you need a good calculator, this one is excellent: www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/ Let me know some details about what you're working on and I'll try to offer more help. Oh, wheel components can be purchased online from the companies that make them, from component sellers like JensonUSA and on eBay.com, Amazon, etc. etc. But you do need to buy things made to work with each other.

[@godfellas483]

@@JimLangley1 Thanks...I have taken your advice and deconstructed a wheel twice and reassembled it. That taught me the installation and then the truing went pretty well. I was off the first time on the dish(way off!), but I made a dish checker out of a 2 x 4 and a carriage bolt. That said, buying a like (same) hub for my bike is looking difficult. The bearing surface is scored. Also, I have the soon to be extinct Rim Brake/hub set up and I need heavy duty 12-gauge spokes.(I'm 6'05") I learned I have "butted" spokes. (I thought I had 14-gauge) The nipples are also a different size I learned. I guess it's a learning process. I also watched your video on measuring components. Thanks again. That should help with sourcing separate components if I can't find a one stop shop. Good advice! I think I will task the customer service at "Jensen" next about spokes....Cheers mate! 😎

[@JimLangley1]

@@godfellas483 nice job learning how to build your own wheels and making a dishing tool, that's great! Yes, building wheels and sourcing components and knowing what's what is definitely a learning process, you're right about that. In case it helps, another good resource for parts is universalcycles.com - they do answer their phone. You should be able to find a replacement hub as there are still plenty of rim brake bikes out there - they won't go extinct, don't worry. Speaking of that, Rivendell ONLY sells rim brake hubs - here's their hub section: www.rivbike.com/collections/hubs-skewers Hope this helps - good luck and have fun building that wheel!

[@dara_1989]

i take 08 hours to lace 02 wheels 😂👍

[@Shsn-n1w]

hi. where can i buy them please, is it possible to send to me address we don't have them in Denmark thanks 🙏❤🙂

[@JimLangley1]

Thanks for watching and the question. To find all the information on the products I show in my videos (and most other people's videos too), you just need to click on the description below the videos and that will open all the notes below the video and links to all the products. If you need more information just let me know. Thanks again.

[@Shsn-n1w]

@@JimLangley1 thank you very much ❤🙏

[@JimLangley1]

@@Shsn-n1w you're very welcome!