Performance Clutch - Explained

What is a performance clutch? Clutch kit? How does a performance clutch work? A performance clutch basically involves three changes over traditional organic clutches. This video features a Yonaka performance clutch kit. A performance clutch has a higher clamping force on the pressure plate (via the diaphragm spring). Performance clutches use different materials which can absorb less heat and that don't lose performance at higher temperatures. Finally, performance clutches use a "puck" design, 3 puck, 4 puck, 6 puck, which increase the pressure on the friction material, to prevent slip.
Product Links:
Performance Clutch Kit: www.yonaka.com/Yonaka_Honda_B1...
Yonaka: www.yonaka.com/
Related Videos:
Clutches - • Clutches - Explained
Multi-Plate Clutches - • Multi-Plate Clutches -...
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im a car idiot, your explaination made this simple, i have a learning disability and when i can understand something you explain, thats useful to me, keep up the detailed simple explainations, good work my fine sir

[@EngineeringExplained]

+Cody Podemski Happy to hear it, thanks for watching!

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Cody I don't think that you have a learning disability. Understanding this guy speak means you pay close attention to all the details that he gets into and you know that he doesn't leave out any important information. What you have is the same problem I have. You have a higher than normal IQ and more information to you opens more questions that ask from you more answers to understand the full picture. Most people will settle with little details or just not bother to ask questions and staying in the comfort zone. But you can go further. The problem is not in you it's I'm nearly 100% of teachers today that are too lazy to stressed to actually teach motivate and explain with examples.

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red makes it go faster.

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Alex Jaxon stripes on mustangs also give it an extra 5hp

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But the paint makes it heavier

[@EngineeringExplained]

Depending on the material. You have to remember that at a microscopic scale the pressure forces the material into grooves of the material it's being pressed against. Like a tire on a road, as it's pressed into the road, it has more grip. With tires, the pressure is generally pretty high, so increasing the surface area still allows for the tire to sink in, and thus it is a net gain. There is likely a similar balance with clutches.

[@spinnetti]

You can also just run a "puck" disc with the stock pressure plate and due to the reduced surface area get more plate load. Probably should talk more about clutch "chatter" as there are two kinds; The first being rough engagement when taking off in first gear, and the second being rough running from also changing from a heavy/dual mass flywheel to a light one when doing a clutch like this (which is common, especially on German cars). Couple things to be aware of: 1. First gear engagement tends to be harsher (one kind of chatter) 2. If you do go LWFW, just sitting at idle in neutral the natural dampening from a heavy flywheel is reduced and it can make noise like you are throwing a rod (2nd kind of chatter). On modern cars (for instance German stuff with clutched alternators) this will beat the crap out of the alternator which is expensive to replace, especially if you also run a un-dampened light front pulley I've run lots of the ceramics including 6puck sprung, 4 puck unsprung and even 3 puck sprung. The 3 and 4 puck ones on my little 1.6l Toyota 4AGE engines worked like nearly stock including with a LWFW (other than a 'hunting' idle), but with the 6 puck and a LWFW on my Audi, it was a big mistake. Those motors need that flywheel and it killed my alternator in about 30k miles as well as sounding horrible when the AC was on and at idle and being difficult to take off in first gear without clutch shudder; Lesson there is, it all depends on the application as to what you are going to experience. There's always tradeoff's with any change, and make sure you are ok with what those will be in your application including potentially heavier pedal feel, different engagement point, roughness/NVH, and both kinds of chatter.

[@billblackeye]

what would you recommend for my 1.4 corolla g6?

[@Shirehi]

I have both of these issues with my Volkswagen. I think its time I took a closer look at a proper clutch.

[@jackalninezeronine]

Its nice to have all of the gaps of understanding filled by someone who knows what they are talking about as well as with use of visual aids. thanks man.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Glad you asked! I'll have a follow up video going into detail about this. :)

[@Djuane]

i never knew what people meant when they said a 6 puck or 8 puck clutch. i always learn something knew while watching your informative videos.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Happy to hear it, thanks for watching!

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Thanks, happy to hear you enjoy the videos.

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I had watched this video awhile back and just rewatched it. I'm glad I did, because I did not remember the last few seconds where you mention a break in period. That is incredibly useful information that many people may not know about, or neglect to research! Thank you so much for that tid-bit, and all your other videos.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Appreciate the suggestions. As a one man team with a full time job this is the best I can do for now. Maybe one day it will be glamorous; if nothing else hopefully people can learn. :)

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Thanks, glad you enjoy the videos!

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Happy to hear it, I appreciate the kind and thoughtful comment!

[@EngineeringExplained]

Glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching!

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I have been a huge fan of this channel but never went this far back in time. I needed to know if my yonaka clutch I just ordered is good. Seems to be the perfect video

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[@EngineeringExplained]

calvin smith Thank you!

[@Ijuststopthepucksbro]

Excellent video. I myself just got a stage 3 clutch (6 puck) for my Z, and everything you described is what I experienced driving with it for the first time. Yes, it's a little harder to engage smoothly from a complete stop in 1st gear... even 2nd gear gets touchy at times. So i recognize i have a narrower "sweet spot" for releasing the clutch, and like you said, slightly higher RPMs have mitigated the "first gear shimmies," if you will. I'm still breaking the clutch in, so I haven't gone too hard with it ye. But I expect to be rewarded when it's time to push it around some winding roads. Better shifts, more responsiveness and torque upon shifting, less wear under harsh conditions because it can handle higher temperatures. Let's hope so anyway... ;) Thanks for another great vid.

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[@EngineeringExplained]

If you haven't done anything to your engine, I'd recommend finding an exact OEM replacement, if they still exist. I know Yonaka carries OEM style clutch discs as well.

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[@EngineeringExplained]

Different stages is certainly something I could have mentioned. Basically higher stages will just have higher clamping forces, and sometimes less pucks.

[@EngineeringExplained]

If it's just stock you may want to go with an OEM replacement, as this will have some different characteristics that are more geared toward higher HP engines. I believe Yonaka has a OEM style clutch as well.

[@EngineeringExplained]

I recommended that if you plan on leaving it stock. If you plan on upgrading, by all means, upgrade the clutch to compensate. You won't see much benefit from an upgraded clutch on a stock motor, as the original clutch could handle the power fine (likely). Also, you'd be making your clutch engagement a little more rough, and you'll have to press the pedal with more force.

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Thanks! Happy viewing, ask any questions along the way!

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Very informal and well explained videos! Thats what YT needs more of!

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Do you go to school or do your own research for you videos? I've personally learned a lot more in detail from your videos and thank you for the knowledge. Keep it up!! Can you give us some insight and stability differences from performance sway and strut bars, how they differ and when nessesary?

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I've always loved her.

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[@kevanromero]

Thank you for explaining why those clutches have notches in them! I was always confused as to why less surface area was a good thing, but now it makes sense!

[@EngineeringExplained]

Could be, but then again it could be heavier to handle the additional torque. I'll weigh them both when they're eventually swapped.

[@igninis]

Its just nice to get someone who ain't acting like a faillebrity and just explaining bits and bobs in cool informative manner. Well done mate, keep up the good work.

[@EngineeringExplained]

I suppose that is another point. It would slightly reduce rotational inertia.

[@RichArd-ee2qj]

Wow! Good job! I'm doing a clutch replacement and was hacking at videos. I had not interest in this one but curiosity got me. I watched it and I'm so glad I did. I bought an upgraded clutch for my car and now know the difference between the two.

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Glad you enjoy the videos, thanks!

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What a great video! Cleared up quite a few things!

[@EngineeringExplained]

You're very welcome.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Thanks!

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Super helpful video man, can’t thank you enough for posting this!

[@EngineeringExplained]

You have to design the teeth to mesh, but yes it can certainly be done, and is frequently done with all manual transmissions. Rarely are the gear ratios a combination of integers.

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another great video! nice to see an actual clutch too. makes everything easier to understand. kind of an obscure request, but could you do a video on the scuderi engine? it seems pretty complicated and i'd love to see your take on explaining it.

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[@EngineeringExplained]

The gearing and RPMs will remain the same. The three areas that affect gearing are the transmission, the differential, and the tires.

[@EngineeringExplained]

I think it's more frequent for wet clutches to be multi-plate clutches. I have a video on the topic if you're interested.

[@ryantitus4973]

That was really helpful man!! Thanks for sharing.

[@traviswatson4986]

the puck design is moreso for cooling as well. Air is able to fan between the sections as it spins

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You should get a bigger screen! The board size won't matter haha.

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or u could have two boards side by side

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Thanks in advance. I was typing that question and found you had already answered that :)

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thank you for all the videos. they are trully engineeringly explained

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Glad I found your channel. Excellent videos, good info. Very entertaining and I,ve learned alot. Thank you.

[@22quack]

Very interesting video :) I did not realize how much of a difference a performance clutch could make until I watched this video. I suppose it was a misconception on my part that the biggest difference was the weight, reducing rotational inertia in the drive train. The parts that are being sent in are extremely helpful as well, since seeing the part out of the car really helps the visualization process (not that your drawings are bad xD). Please continue doing what you do :)

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Wow! Thank you this video was extremely useful!

[@silver350z94]

I already knew all about a clutch but you basically painted in my head in a more simplified way. Kinda like a compressed file in a computer. Either way great job!

[@MrPeeeetaa]

my clutch is going out so i need a replacement soon hopefully for good thanks for the knowledge

[@EngineeringExplained]

Leaks/burns oil. Most gaskets have been replaced so really it's just getting consumed in the cylinders.

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I couldn't quite understand this before but this video really came in clutch

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love the physics explanations makes those past classes feel more prevalent.

[@zilverzero]

Thanks for making these videos. You're doing god's work.

[@zdenekstryhal9136]

You are right, it depends on material. Friction force usually consists of adhesive and deformation part. I do not suppose that clutch is constructed so that the deformation part is predominant (I may be wrong) because it would lead to intensive wear. The adhesive force increases with pressure, however not proportionally. I guess that purpose of clutch segmentation is to allow better heat and debris dissipation. You are doing great videos. Thanks.

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[@waminc91]

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[@ZaydEdits]

I’ve just bought a 6 paddle ceramic clutch, says I should do a 500 mile break in, how do I break it in? Is there anything I should specifically do or don’t do?

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I love your videos. im a nerd when it comes to engineering and efficiency of mechanics. I own a 98 Integra Gs-R. poor man's type R build. the works. wish we could share ideas

[@kevineinheuser8643]

Awesome video!

[@dank7224]

Cool video, there are clutch sets that are capable of holding good amounts of power and torque and yet are really low on chatter and vibrations, some are nearly stock smooth, they just cost more

[@russia3728]

KEEP UP THE GOOD JOB.....

[@jregamey]

My puck clutch in my Sentra ate the flywheel like it was butter! It eventually broke when I paired it with OEM flywheel since it had more clamping force for some reason.

[@wiltse0]

you always seem so much happier when you receive free parts :P

[@EngineeringExplained]

They may not expand as much, thus providing a slightly better response.

[@AnesuMnyulwa]

And also is the rotational energy from the flywheel transmitted to the clutch when the friction surfaces are engadged

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He just looks so happy holding up such beautiful pieces of modern engineering

[@noflrs]

Great video man keep it up