Permanent holiday lights that can be used all year!

[@fractalfool1869]

Just a tip from a plumber here. Not sure how long your gonna use this solution but over a couple of years if you don't paint that pipe it will become yellowed and brittle

[@MLI0369]

Yeah first thing I thought was after this much detail why not prime the pipe too. Hell. One better match the house 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@SpicyRok7482]

Not to mention the snap-in mounts. The Texas SUN will eat them for LUNCH.

[@renod42]

Another way of getting the spacing correct would be to pick a spacing that was easy to repeat that is shorter than the maximum spacing and the cut the pipe a little bit shorter so the spacing to the next one works out right.

[@biondatiziana]

As a technical writer, I just love how clear and thorough this video is. Bravo!

[@bogmaerke]

Create a small jig. Attach some round plug the size of the hole on the jig, clamp the jig to your drill press stand 2.4 inches away. Add another round plug or use a fence to keep the PVC pipe centered.

[@bytesizedengineering]

That's a great idea. I tried something similar the last time I did this on my house. It worked alright, but I wasn't very careful

[@lanswipe]

The 2.4" thing I'd probably sketch it out in CAD software, generate a technical drawing, use a thermal printer to print out the drill guides, then use that to drill pilot holes.

[@robertb3214]

I appreciate the detail you provided. Nice job.

[@partsdave8943]

You should add connections to each run to make it more aesthetically pleasing. Even though you’re wired, you can slot the back open if you can’t easily disconnect them. I suspect the odd angles aren’t 45 degrees, but you can design and 3D print a solution for that. And you will probably have to add more installation clips as it sags from outside heat in the future.

[@bytesizedengineering]

I had planned on doing just that. Great suggestion

[@MattBrauchler]

I love this! I think I might buy brown j channel aluminum trim and self tap to the underside of my eaves and then fave the LED out! Love the video and detail. Ignore the haters. :)

[@cvzphotography]

But now you have pvc on your house. That will break down from the sun after a few years. Cool video. Makes me want to try something similar.

[@kirstenvalentine8870]

Every "permanent holiday lighting" supplier and video I've seen leans into how "cool" you can get with the displays: rainbows, chasing stripes, etc. Other than solid color, I haven't seen anything that mimics a traditional holiday light installation. It turns out, I'm oldfashioned and really just want a slow, gentle twinkle. Is that possible with your installation? I'd love to see a video of all the effects you've been able to use. I'm just an extremely lazy person who wants maximum use from any installation effort.

[@nyckid]

All you have to do is write the color sequence you want to use. WLED is open source so you just open the files and add the animations you created.

[@billfoster6809]

Of course you can make it look like regular Xmas lights. You don’t have to create anything. You can just select your preferred colors or preset color schemes like Autumn, Candy, Rainbow and then select from 100 premade patterns like ColorTwinkle, Glitter, Tri-color Solid Pattern.

[@JT.526]

I did something similair, but used aluminum flashing to make my own channels for the lights. I built a cheap bender out of some lumber and angle iron, then made a guide for continuous drilling using dowels. Cnc just felt like overcomplicating a very simple task and mine is only a 4x4 bed.

[@thewascallyrabbit]

build a jig. put a 1/2" rod mounted vertically. then as you drill the hole move it down. the jig need to sit the specific distance you need.

[@DIYLightLab]

Plus one to a jig! Makes drilling so much easier.

[@LikelyLagging]

I’m alll about diy, but in this case I really think it’s worth just saving up the money for the Govee permanent outdoor lights. They’re absurdly bright, and extremely well made. They look incredible.

[@DIYLightLab]

Do they have an option that points out? Or just the pick lights that point down?

[@LikelyLagging]

@@DIYLightLab down however I have seen people make brackets on Etsy that allow you to change the positioning of them

[@TBL_stevennelson]

Most of the people I know won't want to watch all the detailed parts, that's the part I like most. Maybe you could put together a short Video on just the Highlights and direct them to this Video for full installation. This way I can share it and they'll watch the whole thing.

[@bytesizedengineering]

You know, I had the same thought with my last video on PCB art. I made a short version that was easy to watch and a long version that went into detail. Both videos flopped. I think I confused people by releasing 2 videos.

[@kraftyDevilX]

@@bytesizedengineering Another strategy is to have 2 KZbin channels. For example, @TechnologyConnections has @TechnologyConnextras. It's a little extra work but not too bad after the initial setup.

[@roberthernandez7564]

Since most people don't have access to a CNC, buying pre-made LED channels like Permatrack are a much more reasonable and durable option. Cheap PVC isn't UV rated. Anyone using PVC in sunny climates will likely be replacing this "cheap" mounting solution once the UV rays have their way with the pipes.

[@ScienceBreather]

Amazing project! Once I get a couple other projects I have stacked up done, I really want to tackle this one!

[@mikepanchaud1]

To measure 2.4 inches. 2.4 equates to 10 leds for every 24 inches or 5 leds per foot. So mark accurately 1 foot intervals on the pipe. Make a simple 1 foot ruler from card that has 5 divisions per foot, it is easier to use mm (61mm is 1 fifth of a foot), then mark each foot long secton on the pipe with the 5 divisions. It pays to think decimal !

[@ASUSfreak]

As a metric user, I never understood imperial lol... You do count in one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten. But you measure in inch, quarter of an inch, 3/8th of an inch, 1/16th of an inch and what not... 😅

[@Sean-tc7jm]

How did you handle the wiretap for the power injection? I've seen lots of solutions, but am curious what yours was. Did you Tee off the main run back to the power supply and then continue down to the next one? Or did you run multiple power injection lines to each 10 foot section?

[@ZenHulk]

We had installed lights, done by a company that was their business, hooked up with them at the huge home show. Couple years, cool. Went to sell my house, home inspector said no, mortgage company wouldn't loan to buyer, made me take them down, and since i didn't put them up it was hell on a 20ft ladder. Found out from home appraiser that the VA and FHA require them to ding house value if their are installed Christmas lights, nearly cost me $8000 plus the $2000 that cost me to have them installed. So nope, new house is all lawn lights.

[@robwmc]

I never thought of that. I’ve been here so long that never crossed my mind.

[@proppo4924]

You can get an even distribution of holes without a machine. Cut a string the length of the pipe. Stretch it out and fold it in half and make your mark. There's your first hole. Keep folding in half and marking until you have all your desired holes.

[@daveoldaker5589]

I believe i would have to put the LED wire inside the pipe also ... Since the pipe has to be there it would hide the wires & weather wouldn't get to them ... Besides it would allow drilling 1 hole for every LED & save some time and just keep things more weather proof. 😁

[@TallEnglishman]

That sounds like a good plan but how would you feed the lights into the pipe and get them to stick out? You might be able to do the first few but after that you won't be able to get into the pipe.

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

Make a jig with a peg the size of the hole, space it the correct distance from the center of the drill. Drill the first hole and just put that hole over the peg and drill hole 2, then move hole 2 to the peg and drill hole 3 and so on. That's how i would do it, since i dont have a CNC machine.

[@jmcguire708]

how to mark the holes... start with a normal 90 degree angle stock or bracket, lay you PVC onto it then score a mark down the side of the pipe. you now have a straight line down the length of the pipe that doesn't wrap around the pipe at all. then take a cheap set of calipers, which are very easy to set to exactly 2.40 inches and use the calipers to score a small line perpendicular to the first line. this will be your first drill point. then continue to mark off lines perpendicular to the first line exactly 2.40" from the last mark until you get to the end. do it carefully and you quickly mark all of the drill points and even with tolerance stacking, any variations will be a fraction of a millimeter and will not be visually noticeable even if looking right at it.

[@RickyD1968]

Awesome DIY Lights !!! Good Job !!!

[@Confuzer]

Problem with our weather is moisture. The only thing that survives here is Philips Hue or some special outdoor leds which are almost airtight in think rubber. My Christmas decoration is already 50% broken from this year, completely rusted.

[@Copingsaw2000]

Get a length of elastic from Joann’s. Then mark out 50 equidistante marks. You stretch it from one end to the other of the pipe. Then they will be equaldistanst along the length of the PVC.

[@gunningopher]

To mark the dimensions, you could use an elastic strip, mark an easy to use even interval (2" or 2 1/4" if it doesn't stretch that well) along that band and then stretch it to the correct dimension, mark up a strip of wood or pipe then use that as a template for the rest,.

[@bytesizedengineering]

Out of all the comments I've received on how to make that measurement, this has got to be the most clever!

[@omgBenton]

Love this. I seem to remember this old house using a similar method to perfectly mark out balusters for a deck rail. You are top level clever friend!

[@falcontrailsvideo]

😮 thats my face while watching. Not having an engineering background, you seem like a genius to me. Really cool build!

[@bytesizedengineering]

You don't need an engineering background to do this. It's super simple

[@kirstenvalentine8870]

I am an engineer (civil - totally useless when it comes to anything electrical) and I too am super impressed by what you've done and really appreciate that you took the time to explain the process! Not sure I'll take this on myself, but I love that you've shared the process so that others can too. Thanks!@@bytesizedengineering

[@briankendall1978]

make a jig that has a cone that is 2.4 ins from the bit center. the cone will center on the previous hole you drilled

[@efthimios]

Are Govee pro ok decent quality ?

[@apollo69x]

Let me ask, how many amps are you running on that 16 awg wire along, from the power supply at 5 volts for all your leds in series?

[@bradstucky4621]

Here is an easy way to get the spacing for a definite number of holes per length of pipe and there is little if any cost involved. Cut your pipe to the exact required length for your location. Get a roll of light colored vinyl tape such as used by contractors to mark work areas. It's generally about 1.5 inches wide and pretty thin. Pick a close dimension to what you need for the right number of bulbs on your pipe. For instance: If you need to space them at 2.32 inches, pick a spacing of 2.25 inches (it needs to be less than the required spacing) and make the appropriate number of spaced markings on the blank side of that contractor area marking tape. Leave a good 6 inches or so of extra tape at each end when you cut it off the roll. Then lay your pipe on the floor of your garage. Lay your marked tape right next to it and tape one end securely to the floor. Then stretch the other end until it is the right length for the pipe and then mark it to match the tape. I did this last year and it worked like a champ.

[@davidbeiler6364]

Do you have a diagram of how you wired the power supply w/ the d1 mini?

[@0okiss_my_axeo096]

Awesome job bro .

[@johnsagsveen8238]

Awesome shirt!

[@locoslbck13]

People reading just buy the GOVEE outdoor permanent lights. $125 for 100ft.

[@stephanenicaise40]

Looks completely different but it is an option

[@SmartHomeReject]

It's not $125 anymore

[@zimvader25]

@@SmartHomeRejectit’s $99 for the 98.whatever ft, now. They stay on special on amazon from $150. Too lazy to check but they’re probably on special right now. If you pay “regular” price for lights, whether regular or holiday, permanent or seasonal, then i dont know what to tell you… you may as well go out and hire the contractor this guy was talking about that charged him $10k since you obviously don’t care about spending

[@DigitalArchmage]

pretty sure you can rub off the writing from pvc with isopropyl alcohol

[@RandomBogey]

9:57 Do those self-soldering heat shrink doodads work well, like as far as making a solid solder joint? I’ve never tried them, but I’ve seen them criticized because the amount of heat needed to sufficiently melt the solder, enough for it to properly work its way into the wires, is higher than what a heat gun can provide without damaging the wire sheathing and/or the heat shrink. So, it basically gets just hot enough to melt the solder and coat the outside of the wire joint a little bit, but doesn’t really soak in at all.

[@bytesizedengineering]

I suppose if your heat gun didn't get hot enough it would be frustrating to use these. Also, if the insulated jacket around the wires was susceptible to heat, then the results wouldn't be good. I had pretty good connections when I used them. I could see the solder flow through all the wire.

[@AllgoodAutomation]

if you are worried about the flow of the solder, then use a dab of flux on the wires before heating with the heat gun. I have never had a problem with this product. But it is supposed to be used on silicon and Kapton wire, not PVC covered.

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

@@bytesizedengineering Was looking for this comment, every ínstance you showed using them, it seemed like you did not heat it up to the point where the solder ring melted into the strands of wire. Glad you actually did it this way, otherwise they will not make a good connection. Only "wrong" thing is you are using a single point heatgun, if you want to do it "completely correct" you need a heatgun with a metal shield that "goes round" and forces the air to heat up the whole sleeve at once. The single point gun makes it hard to do it properly, where the solder melts correctly, without burning the plastic jacket.

[@xenomancer1]

How would I do it? I would find the next value lower than 2.4 in I could reliably measure, multiply by 50, and then cut my 10 ft segments down by the difference. Problem solved for maybe an additional foot of pipe and with a fraction more lights per foot overall. Unless the perimeter of the roof is an exact integer multiple of 10 ft, this problem solves itself by rounding down from 2.4 in. Or, you could always use a surveyor's tape marked to inches instead of feet.

[@JonathanRansom]

Those look great! Does WLED have a schedule in it where they can turn on/off automatically?

[@bytesizedengineering]

Thanks, yes it has pretty advanced scheduling abilities

[@GranadaLightShow]

Where can I find those light clips?

[@bsfatboy]

I would make a form to cut the holes, so even if it’s a wrong length it will still be even

[@james13666]

You could even make it with 5 or 10 spots to drill more with each move

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

Awesome build. However im a bit concerned about the lack of ventilation in the power supply.

[@jps99]

Yeah, there are cooling holes/slots all over the power supply for a reason. That heat needs to get out of the box. I'd have mounted the power supply in the garage with no box.

[@MisterMatheusNeves]

How does it look in completely darkness? Does It projects on the house itself?

[@bytesizedengineering]

Yes, it looks great

[@user-qg2kh5nk2n]

"OCD" you need to use a 12mm bit not half inch if you whant to do it right

[@ProwsHouse]

If you use Home Assistant, then you can automate your lights too

[@nthebare]

10:39 What are the clips called that were used to mount the PVC?

[@MrEgdurd]

Pipe clip, isolation hanger, pex j hook, Watts SnapClip... Lots of different names for basically the same type of mount for almost any type of pipe, conduit, or tubing.

[@IRONSIDE_RS]

Im an RGB bug myself, mostly rgb set ups for PCs, though i do know its possible to put up regular christmas lights and leave them up permanently and you can turn them on all year long if you wanted

[@scottbeisel7598]

Can you do a warm white with these lights? Or something close to it?

[@beepboop6179]

thoughts on WLED vs home assistant and esphome?

[@bytesizedengineering]

I'm definitely not the authority on this topic. I do know that WLED integrates with home assistant for further automation

[@christosvolikakis1523]

Great content and thinking outside the box, but unless you treat the PVC pipe with some sort of UV sealant or some sort of countertop, clear coat epoxy, PVC pipe is going to fall apart under normal conditions as it’s not meant for sitting outdoors or perhaps someone else can give advice about using schedule40 or 80 Gray conduit

[@AllgoodAutomation]

What are the Specs and Part Number of the wired Strips you used?

[@g2restore963]

What about when those lights start to fail?

[@cavyboy99]

And I watched this video thinking it was gonna be easy lol

[@57z]

This is an awesome project! Can you point me in the direction of the place, or a direct link, to you sourced your LEDs and the project box for the power supply? Or am I not seeing the link? Edit: found them on Amazon

[@bytesizedengineering]

Yes, Amazon. This was a video sponsored by Digi-Key and they didn't want me to link to other sites. They have since relaxed that request a little.

[@Airbag888]

I got the same lights and I'm trying my best to find the way to protect them from direct sunlight... I got mad when I saw you enable cheat mode with your CNC and drill!! Also the JST connectors aren't water proof

[@ross-owen]

I'm a little late to the party, but I loved your video. I have already purchased the lights and power supply (70amp). I got a little stumped and rewatched a couple of times. I'm confused on the power boost. you ran the power line through the pvc with the lights, but then connected them to the boost wires to the same string that was in the PVC. I may have missed it, but I would've thought you'd power the next strand. Am I missing this? Please advise. Also, does it matter where you put your controller? does it just receive the 5v from the line anywhere?

[@bytesizedengineering]

@@ross-owen The voltage will start at 5V and drop lower toward the end of a string. You could just power the next string with the 5V, but I connected both ends of the string like you observed. This ensures the LEDs at the end of each string are still operating at 5V. It's probably overkill. The 5V probably doesn't drop too low until after several strings in series. I was just being over cautious. The controller needs to be at the start of the string. It can't control LEDs that come before it. Honestly, after doing this installation on my house, I decided that using 5V strings is quite a bit more work than 12V strings. The only problem with 12V is that you still need a 5V source for the controller

[@ross-owen]

@@bytesizedengineering thank you for the reply. that helps. i think i bought 5v because most people were advising on the videos i watched. i think i was watching videos a couple of years old, because the more recent videos, people are saying go 12v. oh well, i'm already invested in 5.

[@ryanm8639]

Why are there 2 cables coming out of your power supply box? You installed the plug on the side so that would be household power in... what are the 2 cables going out? Both 5volt DC?

[@bytesizedengineering]

@@ryanm8639 those are both 5 volt cables for two different branches of LEDs

[@RandomBogey]

4:06 That haunts me on so many projects. “It’s not a big deal- No one will even notice it” Well, if no one else notices, that’s great. But, I will notice it and every time I see it, I’m going to think about it and it’s going to bug me until I break down and redo it. So, I’m just going to take the extra two seconds to do it my way now instead of dealing with the countless seconds of anxiety it causes me in the future. Or, someone does notice it and it bugs then, so now my name is associated with shoddy workmanship because I didn’t take the extra two seconds to just make sure they’re all perfectly spaced/aligned/whatever…

[@Argosh]

Except if I spot something like this I'm gonna give you that knowing nod and Ou can give me that knowing nod and then we all good. Lazy is good.

[@effinericsloan]

i wonder how i could do the same thing but with a metal roof.

[@danielfults606]

Where did you buy these lights? Can you give a review of how they are doing? I want to get some of these but Amazon sends me junk to much to buy christmas lights from random people on Amazon. If you know of a good bulk supplier I would very much appreciate it.

[@hcervantes]

Do these support White lights? Can you sync it to músic?🎉

[@bytesizedengineering]

@@hcervantes wled based controllers do support rgbw LED strings. You just have to make sure you get a string that has the additional white LED. And yes, you can sync light strings to music using software such as x lights

[@BrightHomeLights]

Nice install, quite a bit of work. We have simplified the entire process with our plug and play solution

[@_Mackan]

Oh I am so doing this. What was that transparent heat shrink tube?

[@bytesizedengineering]

Solder seal heat shrink! I don't have a ton of experience with it, but it's pretty awesome! amzn.to/3EzI0ps

[@JorgeElvir]

Nice! Quick question about the inline fuse. Does it go between the Power supply and converter? Or between the converter and ESP board?

[@bytesizedengineering]

Fuse goes right after the 5V power supply before any load

[@alonzohoward3763]

Where can I get the string lights??

[@bytesizedengineering]

Amazon

[@inderjitsinghHmt5911]

Im buy 12v led . What kind controller im used for the 12v led pls tell me which 1 is better ?

[@Argosh]

Why use a weather proof case when you then install an unrated plug?

[@cdarrigo]

Interesting approach, but those lights are really just trim lights. They dont cascade color onto the house. Also, thats a huge fringing power supply! It looks like a tackle box stuck to the side of the house. Isn't there anything smaller?

[@LadyTea]

Why didn't you install behind the ledge board and have more of a defussed lighting.

[@tjhop5887]

How many wemos d1 mini did you use, I want to run about 200 feet I know I'm going to need a power supply but can 1 wemos d1 run that many leds?

[@bytesizedengineering]

Click on the WLED website. They have guidelines on how many LED bulbs you should run with each microcontroller. I've successfully run 250 LEDs on one wemos d1 mini. It's a matter of running out of flash memory on the microcontroller. I used three microcontrollers for this installation

[@drexrew]

"This solution only cost a few hundred dollars, so long as you have a $10,000 CNC machine."

[@dankmeteor4370]

Just use govees permanent outdoor lights. Super easy!

[@ametsman]

J Channel also works well for this

[@DIYLightLab]

A lot of drilling, but a great inexpensive option. That’s what I’ve got on my house.

[@ametsman]

I 3d printed a jig. Goes pretty fast.

[@DIYLightLab]

@@ametsman that’s awesome! My jig is not that cool 😂

[@ametsman]

😁👍

[@adriandelaat2905]

You don’t paint vinyl or aluminum soffit plates any more

[@Mr_Fahrenheit]

Just buy a led programable self adhesive outdoor strip less hassle and cheaper.

[@Drift-Daddy]

Good job bro, but honestly imo the payoff wasn’t worth all the hassle. They look nice but def have a “DIY” vibe to them. Just spend $300 on some Govee permanent lights that look pro but don’t require 10 - 20 hours build time.. I’m sure for you, building it was half the fun as you seem to enjoy that part and I can respect it. Cheers!

[@Hershal13]

All these videos are great and most of them to compare with prof installation but all them miss out is the LEDs used by professional is different it is bigger and some even have dedicated white LED in each pod.

[@johnknightiii1351]

You can get 500 ft of 3/4” pex for $190. I wonder how well pex would work

[@PEPPERKICKS]

If i only had a brain, i could do this😮

[@greggf.1393]

I wouldnt want ugly exposed pvc on my house...looks great at night though!

[@Dagreenberg68]

What he forgot to tell you is that his HOA told him to take it down

[@jonathanzambrano6349]

That's my concern, I would have to have it behind the eaves otherwise they gonna ding me! Lol

[@the-bu3lb]

Govee solved this for us

[@jerrodbuffington4929]

For way more money and took the fun out of it.

[@thewalrus1968]

you may consider 'soldering' your wires as 'sordering' and 'sorder' does not exist

[@teddytaylor1436]

What do you mean most of us don't want to be that house with a million lights? Ofcourse we do!

[@BryceIngrid]

Miller John Garcia George Anderson Brian

[@equipman811]

Oh darn my CNC machine is in the shop. Pfft

[@haroldknox8051]

you mean the one that have too much money

[@Dummatzen]

Easy! use metric!

[@armadilllo]

yeah no, Christmas is special, lights up any other time of the year is dopey. My neighbor has those and sections and other spots have gone out and it just looks like crap every night.

[@nikhook1114]

Omg, you have a cnc machine but didn't drill the 1/2 hole??? Did you ever think of grinding down the shank of the 1/2 drill bit to a dia that you do have a collet for. They also sell drills with reduced dia shanks. I have to stop watching now, I can't listen anymore.

[@shyguytv1498]

Low budget just get a 10000$ cnc machine. 😢

[@frios011]

All this is so unnecessary with the lights available today.

[@mekko1413]

The time people spent doing these types of projects typically out weights the cost. I mean you had a several grand CNC machine, time spent figuring things out and then the installation. This was not a couple hundred dollar installation. I hate these DIY project channels that never take into account the time. Time is the only currency you cannot get more of so you need to be careful how you spend it. I mean just the tool, and shop setup here is more than paying someone to install permanent lighting let alone the time.

[@alexmachine570]

This video is only useful if you can't drill a hole. You spend a few seconds on how to flash the controller which is the most difficult part but ages on drilling holes any fool can do.

[@bytesizedengineering]

If you look in the description there are several links for the WLED documentation. It goes into great detail on how to do this. It's super super easy. There are also 10,000 videos on KZbin that detail how to flash WLED. If you watched this video, then the KZbin algorithm should do its job and show you all 10,000 of them in the coming days. I didn't cover it because it is already very well documented in many other places. I had nothing new to add

[@abelromero4373]

Your a sick. Who has that equipment.....

[@matthewblackwood4704]

LED Christmas lights look terrible though, like a runway or like it should be advertising CBD vape pens...terrible, incandescent Christmas lights are far superior looking .

[@MONTY-YTNOM]

Start working in Metric, like the rest of the world :)

[@bytesizedengineering]

Huh? 🤔 I've been using metric my whole life, I use it everyday! I have also used imperial units my whole life. Remember, it's not a competition

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

I'm a full on metric guy, but when the parts in the store are all imperial, you kinda have to go imperial

[@horsthabicht9630]

looks horrible.

[@glockman9c]

Please link your lights... (crickets)

[@blackpepe]

used all year? that chinese garbage won't make it thru the holiday szn b4 breaking

[@bytesizedengineering]

Wow. You must not have any experience with these. How long did yours last? What empirical data can you provide on the longevity of these LEDs? If you just came here to crap on my work without any substantive contribution you may go elsewhere.

[@jonathanzambrano6349]

​@@bytesizedengineeringthey work for Govee

[@toddcyrus9771]

I've had them up on my back porch for three years. Albeit the 12 volt version. Have them hooked to a Meanwell 12v 30 amp supply. They're programmed to come at a certain time, and to go off at a certain time. Nominally, they are on for an average of 5 hours each day. Still going as good as the day they were installed.