Perpetuating the oldest car myth on the internet.

[@albanybrian]

Based on my experience with my 08 C6Z those pads are the trouble. They overheat very fast when used at the track. Maybe first timers at the track would be ok with these pads but with an experienced driver who can push the car they cannot take the heat. I ran the HPS once and now run Hawk DTC 70 front, DTC 60 rear with very good results at the track I run my 08 C6Z at (Portland International Raceway (PIR)). Have fun with your process.

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thanks for the insight! A bit annoyed with myself for thinking a street/track pad would be adequate. Lesson learned.

[@mx621]

Had this same issue on dtc60’s. Once I started braking later/harder it went away. Was concerning at first but I was just driving to slow lol.

[@Blackcuda]

I ve run down GT3s with my bone stock 08 c6 Z06 with the stock brakes, never really have been an issue . But everybody brakes different on the track . I also run 30 psi in tires. Great Video !

[@JoshVanVeld]

Nice! Thanks!

[@KelMcBeath]

Great videos Josh. Will really enjoy watching the mod plan unfold. Been down a similar path with C6Z06 and still puts a smile on my face each time I drive it. They are a funny car, seem to start making more and more sense on track at 100mph plus, yet still quite a streetable package, even when modded. I have always found solid rotors tricky to live with on the track so one of the first mods on mine was Girodisc floating rotors and Carbotech pads. Have worked super well with lots of road miles and the occasional track session.

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thanks for the tip! I ran Carbotech pads on my C5 Z06 and really liked them.

[@TheWolfMatt]

Another great video bud. Goldie is coming along nicely in stock form. Can't wait to see what you have planned next for her.

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thank you! I'm really excited to see what the upgrades do for Goldie.

[@JoshWalshMusic]

I’m really enjoying this series, Josh. 😊

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thank you Josh!

[@Edde2016]

Great video! I've been enjoying the series. Next time you swap brake fluid or pads/rotors could you do a more detailed video showing the process? I just picked up a C6 myself and I'd like to learn how to do more stuff myself. Unfortunately, I feel every video I've seen thus far hasn't been detailed enough on the process. Especially around changing the fluid.

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. I'm dialing in the level of detail to include with the project stuff. It can be tricky to know which parts of the process to film and still keep the video moving quickly enough to keep people entertained. Next time I flush the fluid I'll definitely go into more detail. It's pretty easy with the right tools.

[@TheTmshuman]

Umm, I’ve turned a few rotors in my life and can attest to rotor’s being significantly warped relative to the hub mating surface. The cutters will literally skip on the disc. When steel or iron reaches a certain temperature it will expand. When it cools, it will contract but not necessarily back to the same place due to internal stresses, different thickness or what have you. Cryogenically treating rotors can mitigate a lot of this characteristic and is done to some race rotors and precision barrels. Anyway, I’ve boiled my fluid on track. Good times.😅

[@ssoffshore5111]

Same, on all counts! Including boiling my old fluid early in my track days. I never made that mistake again! Always use fresh high quality/temperature brake fluid for track use!!!

[@blackbriarmead1966]

I most definitely had warped rotors. Shop resurfaced them instead of replacing them so they were very old and very worn out. car vibrated while braking

[@patrickgoodwin5650]

I tracked a 2008 Z51 for years and there's no substitution for good brake hardware. I suspect you will need real track hardware like Hawk 60 pads and DBA ClubSpec 5000 T3 rotors to fix this issue. Can't wait to see this progress, I'm looking to get back in at some point and the C6Z is the platform I would choose, light and fast.

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thanks! I should have gone with a dedicated track pad to get my baseline lap time, I was being a cheapskate since I have a bigger brake upgrade planned. Lots more to come.

[@gn4life84]

Pretty cool to see the older C6Z seems to be pretty comparable time wise to the newer C7 GS auto you just tested. Would love to hear your thoughts on how they compare. I have a C6 Z16 Grand Sport manual. The suspension was super soft. I did the Johnny O'Connell stage 1 kit. It consists of front & rear adjustable sway bar. Beefy end links. & Tuned C6Z stiffer shock dampners. Handling was night & day difference. I do some of those mountain and canyon rallys & I can keep up with the newer super cars now....That is when I have the nerve to do so. Lol

[@JoshVanVeld]

Nerve has a lot to do with it when it comes to the rally stuff. That's part of why I like the track - there's no voice in the back of your head telling you to hold back based on traffic, speed limits, etc. I just went back and rewatched my lap in the C7 Grand Sport and I'm kind of amazing at getting a 1:31 at AMP on Super Sport tires. On Cup 2's I think I could run a 1:28 or faster without too much trouble. I wish I had driven a GS with manual so it was more of an apples to apples comparison, but from what I remember that car really inspires you to push hard. The C6Z has more power and weighs at least a couple hundred pounds less, but I think the C7 has improved suspension and brakes. The C7's seats do a much better job of holding you in place on the track. They both suffer from lack of steering feel, which I'm wondering if I can rectify with stiffer suspension bushings. Maybe later this year I'll get a chance to drive them back to back.

[@CodeBlueNurburgringAtom]

Great video! You sure can drive bud. I have no doubt Goldie will go below 1:30 soon. I bet you could strip a couple seconds off in current form if you kept pushing. 🏁

[@JoshVanVeld]

Thanks dude! I've rewatched the footage a few times and with tires up to temp and more comfort with the car I easily could have shaved a couple seconds. I'm tempted to use a different method to clean off those rotors and give it another shot...

[@Mandolin1944]

@@JoshVanVeld Cool series -- this kind of stuff is entertaining to follow -- subbed your channel. Not an expert in this but a half century ago I used to race a modified 1972 BMW 2002 in central Ohio. I had it fixed up with a Holley carb and did some upgrades to the springs, shocks, wheels and tire stuff -- but nothing fancy compared today. But I would think a brake upgrade must be on you future plans? BTW I obviously do not know what happened with your brakes but "back in the day" we definitely used to "warp" brake rotors -- you could see it with a straight edge. But maybe the newer ones are more substantially made?

[@JoshVanVeld]

@@Mandolin1944 Oh wow, I bet that old 2002 was a blast! I think modern rotors can still warp although I suspect it's a lot less common than it used to be. Definitely planning on a pretty beefy upgrade for the brakes soon. Thanks for watching!

[@aburnett8685]

In my experience, based on your video, your issue is a combination of two things: 1) quality of the parts you used and 2) your style of driving 1) the pads you used, per the manufacture, are for low to mid temperature ranges with an optimal max temp of 600 degrees. I’m sure your brakes were around, or in excess of, 800-1,000 degrees at the point during your run when you started getting the shakes. To save money and get another base-line run before you completely upgrade the brakes, I’d buy a decent set of full ceramic track focused pads and have your rotors “turned”. Most tire shops can turn your rotors for around $50. Also, make sure to clean off the mating surfaces, with a wire wheel or similar, where the back of the rotor mates with your hub. Surface rust can cause your rotors to not seat properly. 2) try braking later and more aggressively. This will do to things. First, it will decrease the total time on the brakes (heating them up) and it will lower your lap time ;) Also, try keeping your RPMs higher in some of the corners under braking. I noticed you were down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm range during several deceleration areas. Keeping your RPMs up will help keep your brakes alive and also keep you in the power once you get back on throttle Love the videos and can’t wait to see that stack of parts on the car!!

[@JoshVanVeld]

This is great advice, thanks for taking the time to share! I'll try to keep all of this in mind.

[@spencerburt3426]

I have a c6z and was having the steering wheel shake when braking hard. Got new rotors and that fixed the issue. In hindsight I wish I had tried to smooth them out first, but just didn't know that was something that could potentially fix the issue. Interesting to know for next time even if it may not work haha

[@JoshVanVeld]

Several people I talked to had similar experiences and rotors that probably could have been cleaned off. At some point I want to to clean these rotors to prove the theory 100% but I need to take a break from making videos about brake vibration and move on to something else 😅

[@yzScott]

I've been starting to wonder if you've got a rotor with a defect. Something about the casting or metal composition causing it to change shape with temperature. If it was just a bedding issue, I would not expect the vibration to be noticeable under very light braking when hot. It looks like it vibrates when hot, even if you barely (or maybe don't) touch the brakes. Very odd.

[@JoshVanVeld]

It is weird. It definitely only vibrates under braking, with the brakes hot. Hunter said he could feel it from the passenger seat even when the brakes were cold. Don't worry too much - we're going to bring out the big guns for a solution in the next video.

[@SLVRFOX88]

No worry on the Valve guide issue? I know some take the GM stance of nothing is wrong or you modified it and broke it. But if I had a Z06 with that very expensive motor I’d have it checked at minimum or fixed for peace of mind. There is a channel where guy bought a track 08 with a blown motor for 15k

[@JoshVanVeld]

It definitely gives me some concern. I think spending a couple grand to get the heads fixed helps the resale value as well.

[@SLVRFOX88]

@@JoshVanVeld I like your GT3 idea I want something similar but don’t have my Z06 yet might settle for a C5 but have my heart on a C6

[@janbee5911]

What times do GT3s do in the track you ran in?

[@JoshVanVeld]

Great question! Stay tuned for a future video dedicated to that topic. I need to know my competition if I’m going to beat them!

[@ssoffshore5111]

@@JoshVanVeld The conditions looked less than ideal for optimum times, so keep that in mind for your benchmarking.

[@JoshVanVeld]

@@ssoffshore5111 Good point. It was a little chilly out there. Still nice to be able to hit the track in December. Looking forward to a lot more track days in 2023.

[@ssoffshore5111]

@@JoshVanVeld I didn't recognize the track, what track is it?

[@JoshVanVeld]

@@ssoffshore5111 Atlanta Motorsports Park in Dawsonville, GA.

[@nurburgringdreaming2221]

I don’t care if you buy brand spanking new rotors from a dealer or even a performance company. If they’re turnable , then GET THEM TURNED . We’ve seen new rotors out of round before !

[@marioquiros5498]

Your brake calipers could be sticking as well

[@JoshVanVeld]

True. I've thought about doing a caliper rebuild.

[@yzScott]

How are the upgrades coming?

[@JoshVanVeld]

Slow start to the new year - I got the flu over the break - but the next video isn't too far out and it will have the first major upgrade.

[@yzScott]

I moved from TX to NJ a few years ago. My money has gone into the house the past couple of years. Getting back on track this winter. She is nearly done. I've gone pretty nutty with this build. I should do some vids, I guess.

[@JoshVanVeld]

@@yzScott Yeah man let's see it! Or at least post some details and photos over on corvetteforum.com!

[@yzScott]

@@JoshVanVeld The basics, an RHS block 8.2 (502), Monster clutch, carbon driveshaft, hypercoils over Bilstein inverted cartridge aluminum race shocks, Delrin bushing, and big bars. This winter gets the Tick Level-3 T56, Sparco race seats, 5 point harnesses, and a billet intake from SME. And perhaps GT2 splitter and wing from LG.

[@JoshVanVeld]

@@yzScott Sounds like a beast! What kind of power numbers? What's the redline? I've been thinking about bushings - can't decide between delrin or monoball. How would you describe the ride difference compared to stock? I'm looking for a lot more steering feel than I get from the factory setup.

[@JerryCecco]

FIX it yes, then just R7 tires DONE

[@JoshVanVeld]

True, but where's the fun in that?? 😀

[@bilalabdelhafez9429]

Switch to slotted/ drilled rotors, you can thank me later.

[@steveowens913]

I agree 100%...Didn't the Z06 come from the factory with drilled starting in 2006?

[@JerryCecco]

get ride of those hawk pads