Petite-friendly Patterns + 5 Tips For Making Adjustments

[@stephaniepaterson6340]

Sinclair patterns saved me! I was at the point of giving up due to the enormous amount of alterations needed (& each one seemed to ruin the last one!)..but with Sinclair…perfect! I’ve made quite a few without even a toile. But yes, they are somewhat old fashioned and I can’t find anything to make now. Petite isn’t just shorter, it’s narrow shoulders etc (for me anyway!)…I get fed up of everyone talking about size inclusivity but forget us! Ps I’m 5’ tall.

[@knottygnome]

someday i will get around to trying one of their patterns. thanks for the rec!

[@ShereeThomas30]

I definitely found this video to be helpful and as someone 5’4” I also have to make length adjustments to most of my patterns. I also almost always have to lower the waistline and shorten the crotch. I have a Short torso, short crotch length, flat butt and no curves. You are absolutely right that you need to know your body,😊 all adjustments don’t work for every body. I love this video.

[@knottygnome]

thanks, Sheree! i've definitely found it helpful over the years--knowing in advance what adjustments i'm likely to have to make. it's not always the same for every pattern but similar things pop up enough that it can save a lot of time...especially when you stick to the same companies over and over.

[@lisagoldring2838]

Thank you so much for this. I've been 5'4" all my life, until recently I found out I'm 5'3". Aging and gravity have conspired against me. 😮 Your final comment about body shape vs height was spot on. I've even found that some pattern companies fit me well in the upper body, but not lower. For example, the smaller size Cashmerette Patterns fit me well in tops, but the pants are way out of whack. On the other hand, True Bias and Itch to Stitch fit me with very few modifications, if any. I think you're right about starting with the block that suits your shape, and adjusting the height from there. Another pattern company you may want to consider is Stitched in Wonderland. She drafts for 5'3" to 5'7" and has separate files for B, C, and D cups. She also includes a lengthen/shorten line for raising/lowering the bust point, which I've never seen anywhere. Thanks again for a great video!

[@knottygnome]

i have never heard of that company. i will check them out, thanks!

[@samanthaschasteen7903]

Thanks for all the work you did for this video! It was very helpful. There were some pattern companies I had never heard of before that I'm excited to check out.

[@knottygnome]

so glad I could help!

[@barbarawarner4645]

I’m 5’1” and fairly proportionate but always do my height adjustments first. Agree that body shape dictates the best pattern company. Cashmerette is my go to company if I want to make a minimum amount of adjustments once I’ve adjusted for height.

[@knottygnome]

we are spoiled for choice these days--it's wonderful that almost everyone can find a company that suits their shape.

[@GoSewBeautiful]

Thank you so much, Sarah! And BTW, I think you are more than qualified to make this video. I appreciate all your suggestions and tips. Right on, petite sister!❤😊

[@knottygnome]

glad you enjoyed it!

[@MsAngieNightmare]

Tall friend here. Watching because I love your videos. Fit issues are real no matter what your size.

[@knottygnome]

thank you so much for watching!

[@brendawetli7263]

Totally agree! Length isn't the problem as much as the width adjustments. Will take another look at Big 4 as I'm very straight as well. Definitely have the hip poking out issue!

[@knottygnome]

it's so annoying to get that "bubble" at the side. and yes, obviously we can take the side seams in...but it's nice not to have to.

[@martyleach6471]

This is a very satisfactory video. I am impressed that even though you were reluctant to address this topic directly, you gave us a clear and complete treatment which will help us have more success in our sewing. The tips about shortening patterns and knowing one's body shape upped the usefulness score significantly. Thanks for doing the research for us.

[@knottygnome]

i'm glad you found it helpful!

[@patriciaferrito9245]

I'm just 5 feet. Yes, I do my length adjustments first and then fiddle with the rest. I've taken pattern fit classes from a number of companies at sewing conferences and this is the advice I was given by "experts". I also agree on finding a company that fits your shape. That is the beauty of videos and conferences. You can try on samples and see what works for you. I've also been told to look at the pattern designer- if her shape is similar to yours, you will have success with those patterns. And that works for me! I have a friend who designs a pattern line -and all her samples fit me perfectly. I have another friend that has a different figure- and I can't wear what she wears. She has her own different pattern company that she sticks with. Great advice- thanks.

[@knottygnome]

good to know that others recommend making height adjustments first as well, thanks for sharing!

[@rebeccaw9656]

Thank you for your list, I’m already sewing from some of these, adding a few new ones to my list. I’d like to suggest Pattern Emporium, who have different height profiles. I also love Helen’s Closet and Style Arc. At 5’2” and short waisted, learning how to shorten the bodice and raise or lower the bust dart line have been game changers in how to raise the bust and waist line where it needs to be on my body - and that means always making a toile of the bodice of any new pattern, making the adjustment needed, then the pattern is ready for many future makes in various hacks. So learning how to grade vertically has been a game changer, but also as a pair shape, learning how to grade horizontally comes part of the package for me personally😂. Learning these skills will increase the likelihood of a satisfactory make for most patterns, in my experience.

[@knottygnome]

i wasn't aware that PE drafts for different heights. interesting!

[@nanmiddleton3010]

Thank you so much for taking the time to do so much research and providing a very informative vlog. It is very much appreciated.

[@knottygnome]

i'm so glad you enjoyed it! thanks for commenting.

[@aslyn39]

Thanks

[@BethSicilia-q2g]

Thank you!! Very helpful. 5’ here. Length adjustments are a given with almost any pattern, and it is the width/body shape adjustments that are the most challenging. Narrow shoulders and hips mean upper and lower body adjustments. Probably the most crucial advice you gave is to leave a little grace length at first try - Overfitting has been a problem for me. I also agrree with your comments about marketing of patterns. There are some companies that I just can’t get on board with because of the frumpiness of the photos. Thanks again for good info!

[@knottygnome]

it makes me kind of sad, because i want companies with good patterns to succeed. marketing shouldn't matter but it does, unfortunately.

[@sewenticing]

Thank you! I am 5’1” after a lot of sewing my favorite 3 pattern companies are pattern emporium, love notions and closet core. I also use Cashmerette but I am smaller than some of their size range so there are some limitations. You mentioned pattern companies I will definitely look at

[@knottygnome]

thanks for sharing!

[@carmensalome]

Very informative video. I am short, too, so thank you for making this video.

[@knottygnome]

i'm glad you found it helpful!

[@lena-lp5dn]

Really great video. I especially appreciated your tips. Thank you for all the work you did to make this video.

[@knottygnome]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to watch.

[@purllletteknit9103]

Thank you for the video, as another under 5 foot person it is good to be seen. Yes, this must have taken a long time to research, but the time is appreciated. I highly recommend SBCC patterns. I agree that their marketing is not the best, but they are really excellent patterns. The woman that owns the company is a professional pattern drafter and the patterns go together so well. I use SBCC for basics and a few times I have hacked the patterns for a “dressier” dress. I’ve used Sinclair some for basics like the Harper Cardigan or a zipped sweatshirt. They are very good patterns if you see beyond the styling. On the subject of body type, I find that Itch to Stitch pants work well for my straighter bottom half of my body.

[@knottygnome]

I'm glad that you are happy with SBCC. i didn't mention it but one of my issues is that i have so many patterns that i already have the basics covered, so anything new i buy needs to be something a step above design-wise to justify the purchase. so that's another reason i haven't bought from them (or Sinclair).

[@caireenbrain9612]

Excellent summary, and thank you for your research! I am 5'2" and find that the Sew Liberated patterns work well for me. I think they are drafted for 5'5".

[@knottygnome]

thanks for the rec! i've never tried one of their patterns before but i do have the Hinterlands dress in my stash.

[@maureencapobianco3596]

Thanks for the information, Sarah. I agree about the importance of the body shape of a pattern. It does make a big difference.

[@knottygnome]

absolutely!

[@gehanghobrial2449]

You are absolutely right ❤️ I agree with you 💯.

[@knottygnome]

thanks!

[@trudyberry3267]

Although I'm 5'8" I found your video very interesting Sarah, you always give very sound, considered advice. Thank you.❤

[@knottygnome]

so glad you enjoyed it!

[@downtoearthsewing]

Very cool video! I am 5'0" and agree one has to know where to make the adjustments. Even though my torso is fairly standard, I usually have to raise the armscye and neckline. And I often make some details like patch pockets slightly smaller.

[@downtoearthsewing]

And sleeves are all over the place. I usually construct the garment and then try on to figure out the sleeves.

[@knottygnome]

i agree sleeves can be tricky b/c it depends on where the sleeve head hits your shoulder. with so many drop shoulder styles being popular the sleeve can kind of sit anywhere--you just never know until you make it.

[@ExpressionistMakes]

Thanks for this awesome entertaining and informative video, Sara! I’m just under 5’ tall. So, this topic is very relevant to me. I made the Harper Cardigan from Sinclair and was impressed with the fit. I plan to try some of their other patterns.

[@knottygnome]

you're welcome! thanks for sharing your experience with Sinclair.

[@ChyeallaMcBride]

I saw you put the wrap dress pattern in this video. Did you end up getting it? I'd love to see an in depth video of you making the dress and showing us how you did the height adjustments for it.

[@knottygnome]

no, the examples i chose were mostly of the company's most popular pattern--and the DVF dress popped up as most popular on Simplicity.com. i didn't buy it because i own several wrap dress patterns already.

[@pamelaliebelt9967]

Sarah, thanks for the work you put into this video. Good food for thought on height vs. body shape. You mentioned some companies that I hadn't heard of - so more to check out. I am 4'10" so I also have to shorten everything.

[@knottygnome]

it's such a pain, isn't it? but that's life as a short person. 🤷‍♀️

[@sharonmolde6658]

Thanks for the video AND the reminder to like it! It’s so easy to keep clicking through videos we forget to be appreciative.

[@knottygnome]

thanks for supporting my channel!

[@jessicawong6465]

Thanks for this video! I'm a little over 5" and just started sewing from big 4 patterns and it's been a frustrating experience. I had to chop 6" from the bottom of most dresses/skirts amongst other alterations. I didn't realize that fit really is so individualized and even if I can fit a certain size, body proportions make a huge difference! I have rather slim hips compared to my bottom, so I have to adjust the hips so they don't flare, and do a butt adjustment instead, even though the numbers stay the same. I never thought I had to think about these things before, but you're so right! I'm slowly using these adjusted patterns to make a set of blocks so I can start with a better fit before making style changes to get the look I want. Thanks again!

[@knottygnome]

i know that feeling! i was definitely overwhelmed in the beginning with all of the adjustments i needed to make, but now i remind myself how much better i will feel in a garment that actually fits and all of the extra work is worth it in the end. good for you for taking the plunge.

[@ChristineSewsALot]

I have also shortened things a little too short.

[@knottygnome]

it's so annoying. and i just did it again recently--somehow i never learn. 🤦‍♀️

[@denbeesewswhat9841]

Thanks you so much for taking the time to put this together. I'm 5'1" and this will be very helpful. My MIL is 4'9" so you are not alone 😉😉

[@knottygnome]

yes there are dozens of us out there. DOZENS! 😂

[@denbeesewswhat9841]

@@knottygnome 🤣🤣

[@Pintuckpress]

Loved the video and the tip around understanding proportions is solid ❤ thanks for taking the time to compile everything. Learned a lot and I live that 4’10 life 😂 so I can’t wait to look into these options.

[@knottygnome]

so glad it was helpful!

[@pennyf9886]

thank you for doing the research on this topic! I've needed this so much!

[@knottygnome]

so glad i could help!

[@michellewaters1246]

I really enjoyed this video. I am 5”1 and I never know which company to use. I appreciate your hard work. This will help me with future purchases.

[@knottygnome]

so glad i could help!

[@denisekay4292]

You're so sweet!! Great sharing. I am 5'5 so Im not your height targic... LoL, but I really like your topic. You're generous for sharing. 🇨🇦

[@knottygnome]

thank you so much! i appreciate it.

[@robinduggins2561]

I learned the hard way about proportions with my husband. I'm 5'4, he's 5'5 and he carries more length in his torso and I have a short torso with a high waist. In some ways the curvier patterns may work for that shape but I don't have a full bust and hips, my waist just sits high so that adjustment is simple.

[@knottygnome]

i've often found that figuring out how your body differs from the pattern can be the hardest part. making the actual adjustments is usually pretty easy.

[@Lily.Mac56]

Thanks for such a considered video. I'm a newish "petite" sewer and still trying to find companies that fit well... now that you've talked about shape, I remember seeing an article on The Fold Line about what shapes the companies draft for... I think I need to go back and read up!

[@knottygnome]

great idea! good luck with your fitting journey.

[@rhonddalesley]

I’d like to suggest trying Lekala patterns because you have the option to input all of your measurements and save them to a personal profile which I’ve done for myself and my daughter who’s 4’11 and a true petite. When you buy the pattern you tick the box for the profile you want, then they draft the pattern so it fits you perfectly and becomes available almost straight away. They have thousands of patterns but the downside is that they only give you a line drawing and picture of the finished garment, there’s no actual photos unless you check the members gallery. Even if they don’t have the style you’re looking for, having a perfectly fitting pattern is a great starting point to work from and a sewist with some experience can easily take inspiration from other patterns they like and recreate them and as they’re a Swiss company there’s styles that we don’t see elsewhere. They always have sales but seeing as the patterns are only around £3 to start with it’s at least worth trying one out! It’s important to make the distinction between being short vs petite because as you said, there’s a difference in the type of adjustments you need to make but it’s great that somebody is shining a light on the subject!

[@knottygnome]

thanks for the suggestion!

[@Lorij83]

Really good info. I need to check out SBCC. I agree with your last statement. Find a company that drafts for our body shape!

[@aldonastraczek]

Hello Very instructive video. Most French pattern companies draft for 1m68 and a B cup. Unfortunately, the petite ranges are not really ideal. I tried a petite version of a Sinclair pattern. My mistake, i did not measure the bodice length. Unfortunately the bodice was way too short for me. So the bottom line is that it's all down to where you carry your height. I personally have a "regular" torso and short legs so i would rather pick a regular pattern and simply shorten the trousers or skirts and sleeves. In my opinion, the best skill to learn as a sewist is pattern alteration. It allows to achieve the perfect fit for your specific body.

[@knottygnome]

definitely! i've experienced the same thing as you--in RTW clothing as well. if i try to buy petite-sized clothing the arms/legs are still too long and the torso is often too short. one of the main reasons i started making my own clothes in the first place!

[@aldonastraczek]

@@knottygnome same for me. I'm short with narrow shoulders and big boobs so finding blazers or shirts in rtw is a nightmare

[@debbiesnyder4778]

Great information

[@create_something_pretty]

Love this video. Thank you. I appreciate it so much. I think my tastes are similar to yours. True Bias I love. There are a few pattern companies I think I need to make up their before I buy much more from them. I feel the same about the marketing issues you mentioned too. This was a very helpful video. I hope you have a fun weekend and happy Easter if you celebrate it. We just eat way too much junk food then regret it later and maybe catch up with friends. Have a great one❤❤

[@knottygnome]

thanks, Katrina!

[@marniedriver1901]

Also 4'9''. will be watching more

[@knottygnome]

it's always nice to find more of us. 😂

[@ritacamarsh2553]

Great video. I’m 5’1 1/2 “, I made a couple of Bella loves patterns and had to do no adjustment. Will look at a few more of your recommendations.

[@knottygnome]

that's awesome!

[@GoSewBeautiful]

Thanks!

[@knottygnome]

Thank you so much, Becky! that was very generous of you. I really appreciate it. 🥰

[@alisonwhite1942]

Wonderful video. I could totally agree with your closing comments. Im 5’9” and a very curvy plus size. Started sewing as a teenager, although curvy I could fit into the general size ranges. Once I entered plus sizes I did not know how to make the necessary pattern adjustments to make the big 5 fit me so I stopped sewing. I’ve recently (a year ago) found the KZbin sewing community and have been introduced to the Indy sewing companies/options. I’m in love with sewing again. Even though you and I are on totally opposite ends of the size spectrum I have enjoyed your videos and look forward to what you share next. Thanks so much for all the time and effort you put into your videos. 😊

[@alisonwhite1942]

Wonderful video. I could totally agree with your closing comments. Im 5’9” and a very curvy plus size. Started sewing as a teenager, although curvy I could fit into the general size ranges. Once I entered plus sizes I did not know how to make the necessary pattern adjustments to make the big 5 fit me so I stopped sewing. I’ve recently (a year ago) found the KZbin sewing community and have been introduced to the Indy sewing companies/options. I’m in love with sewing again. Even though you and I are on totally opposite ends of the size spectrum I have enjoyed your videos and look forward to what you share next. Thanks so much for all the time and effort you put into your videos. 😊

[@knottygnome]

I'm glad you have found some options that work well for you! best of luck on your sewing journey.

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

I'm 5'9" with arms like a gorilla, length has also been a frustrating issue for me. I wonder if it's more or less difficult to alter patterns for petite frames. Humans come in so many shapes and sizes, it's pretty fascinating how much variation a single species has.

[@knottygnome]

that's an interesting question! i would think it would be the same level of annoyance at both ends of the spectrum, but obviously i have no way of knowing that.