Petzl Neox Belay Device Comparison with Petzl GriGri and GriGri+ and First Impressions

Checking out the ins and outs of the new Petzl Neox Belay Device

[@thomash3537]

It is not encouraged by Petzel to pinch the whole device!! You might have enough strength to keep the cam open if squeezing when a fall happens. Only pinch with index finger under the lip and thumb on cam. It's in the manual.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

That's correct, the method I showed here isn't ideal. I actually don't belay leaders with a GriGri often so this does kind of demonstrate where the Neox would fit a nice gap. There is no need for holding the device in a specific way to quickly pay out slack.

[@wielanddekruif6040]

Great video. Also the first one demonstrating how this device performs on belaying a second from the top. Looks MUCH smoother than any of the other belay devices out there for that purpose.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

It is super smooth when taking slack in with one hand on brake side and one hand on load side. It makes an interesting clicking sound if you have both hands pulling slack on just the brake side and doesn't feel quite as smooth. The only device I've used that has less friction is the Petzl MicroTraxion but that is not exactly endorsed by Petzl for that purpose.

[@adamaayan]

Best video I've seen so far. I've seen the commercial video and a few more and that is the first video that actually explores the real reason behind the update. Thanks 🙏

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Glad it was helpful!

[@christophersauer]

Thanks so much for making this video! Can’t wait to see the results of your ascension test

[@HrvojeKucic]

Good explenation and demonstration, but @3:03, are You sure Petzl approves demonstrated technique. There is a much safer technique (if leader falls while you give slack), which Petzl supports, using only thumb and index finger, so 3 fingers always stay on rope.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Good catch and proof I have limited experience belaying leaders with a GriGri... which kind illustrates what's great about the Neox... no need to use special techniques to quickly feed out slack

[@lumiha6461]

Respect, very attentive observer and respectful answer👍

[@devbrain3]

Minor correction -- at 1m30, the anti-panic is not related to the speed of the rope, but to a common panic response of pulling the lever instead of letting it go when the rope begins to move too fast.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Thanks for that correction!

[@dirtbagproductions6561]

Great video - thanks.

[@SeekOutTheAdventure]

Thanks for the detailed overview.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Glad it was helpful!

[@remz5722]

I'm no beginner belayer, but the grigri has never suited me. Or I've been too lazy to take the time to "master" technique for feeding slack. I've ordered the Neox, and get it tomorrow, hoping it might be the Petzl device for me. Great demonstration, makes me hopefull.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

I think you might be the type of person this device is perfect for. Personally I use the GriGri a ton to belay directly from the anchor but very rarely do I use a GriGri to belay a leader (which you can tell when I don't demonstrate the special hand technique for quickly giving slack)... the Neox doesn't require any special hand technique and the rope feeds out like butter.... should be easy to keep up with a dynamically climbing lead climber!

[@Dognut23]

Considering it is assisted breaking and, as you demonstrated, wont cam if your hand is off the brake strand, I think it would be good practice to use a backup prussic if using it to rappel. What are your thoughts?

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

I really don’t think a third hand friction hitch backup would be needed for rappelling a single strand with the Petzl Neox… even the weight of the rope hanging below you is enough to get the can to engage if you are not holding the lever down. I definitely would tie the device off if I wanted to halt my rappel for an extended time but with a fully loaded Neox and resistance on the brake strand at this point I still don’t think I’d ever add a friction third hand backup

[@Govanification]

Be careful when you approach the end of the rope rappelling with a GriGri or Neox, as the weight of the rope hanging below the device might not be enough to consistent engage the cam, and if you unweight it slightly the rope tension from stretching the whole rope above you can cause the rope to zip several meters through the rope in the blink of an eye. I imagine this issue would be more pronounced with the Neox. Obviously you should have knots in the end of your rope but if you don't..... you could zip off the end of the rope and die like Brad Gobright from exactly this. Be careful using the Neox for anything other than lead belaying, I honestly think the GriGri is a better and safer tool for multipitch climbing.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

@@Govanification Some good points. Something I noticed yesterday while lowering a climber from the ground was when the climber reaches the ground there is a tipping point where the Neox goes from lower mode where the wheel does not spin back to the wheel spinning. It's a somewhat abrupt shift in the amount of friction at the device and something I will try to capture and share on Instagram today.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

@@Govanification Good points. I think the most important point is a secure brake hand MUST be maintained at all times regardless of how much rope is still below you (and closed systems are ideal).

[@JDal-rr1ef]

Do you think neox is dangerous for multi-pitch climbing? Please let me know your actual experience. Also, if you don't hold the braking rope on the Second climbing bilay, won't it be braking?

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Inherently dangerous? No. But it does require a more attentive brake hand then the Gri Gri or a plaquette. A lot of rope will move quickly through the device if that brake hand comes off the brake strand for any reason. The fact that you can take in slack super fast might increase safety when the second is climbing fast and other belay devices make it hard to keep up with the climber.