Petzl Neox Vs Edelrid Pinch, a Review

[@MonstaMunch101]

If you're left handed there's no comparison to be made, Pinch is the clear winner because the rope comes out of the end so you're not forced to either belay right handed or do that weird crossed arms thing. Why none of these companies have a dedicated left handed version is beyond me, the market is easily big enough to justify it.

[@TomasCordilheira]

I dont think dominating hand is that crucial using a belay device, but I am right handed, so I am speking from a place of comfort. But when top rope belaying I switch hands every time to rest my arms and shoulders. Maybe the can overwriting move would be clunky. The last estimate is that 10% of world population is left handed, for a mouse that changes plastic components and has a HUGE market, that makes senses, for climb, probably do not, unfortunately

[@MonstaMunch101]

@@TomasCordilheira There are more than 10x as many climbers now than there were when the grigri was first released, so if the market was able to justify right handed devices then, then it should be able to justify left handed devices now. All they'd have to do is reverse the molds. You're right that it isn't crucial, but when faced with a choice between a device that can only be used right handed or one that can be used with relative ease left handed, as I said initially, there is no comparison to be made, one is clearly better than the other.

[@huntergibson9359]

If I didn’t already have a grigri, the lifeguard would be my pick. My home gym allows them inside, and they are cheaper, prettier, and lighter than a grigri as well as feeling pretty well indestructible.

[@TomasCordilheira]

Thanks for the content, there is still so little about the pinch!

[@supernoodles908]

2:48 okay if i may, it's rattling because of your belaying technique. Your technique is great for a grigri but that's not how you use a neox. Belay like it is a tube style device. Essentially if you give out slack with the rope over the lip and the thumb on the back of the cam, it will cause the wheel to lock or click. It's intentionally designed to do this to try and prevent people from pressing down on the cam. Belay like it is a tube style

[@ShallWeClimb]

In that case it looses all the benefits of faster feed of slack as the tube style is inherently problematic with tall people climbing, but unlike the ATC - Neox does fully lock up with tall boys pulling 2 meters of rope at once. or i need to keep way more slack in the system. Step back and forth technique also only works in the gym or really groomed crag, but will end in belayer tipping on anything we have around here.

[@supernoodles908]

​@@ShallWeClimb2 feetd out slack quickly and a lot on a neox, just have your hand infront and and pull it out with your left hand. You'll find the spot for it. Basically you can still dump out like like a Grigri but not with the right hand in the same place

[@supernoodles908]

​@@ShallWeClimbbut yes I've had it lock a couple time with tall boys clipping high but it's easy to unlock again

[@ShallWeClimb]

All of them are easy to unlock, but when belaying people at the limit, that lock is what I don't want to have, and what can result in a Clipping fall! With overhang climbing can be a difference between safety and danger of a deck, I'd rather stick to something more predictable, and reliable.

[@supernoodles908]

​@@ShallWeClimbto each their own :) happy climbing. When teaching I always say to use what's most comfortable and familiar to you

[@MatthewWright-y9t]

My attraction to pinch is that it sits closer to harness without a biner

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@MatthewWright-y9t it does make it feel way better. But I have tested it in all configurations, but this one just feels perfect! So connected.

[@bxtrem]

the petzl equivalent for the pinch is the grigri plus because of the anti panic feature

[@ShallWeClimb]

It really isn't! Used GG+ and walked away absolutely unimpressed. While all devices in the list are interesting in their own right, GG+ lacks all the features that make the Pinch cool, while keeping the only thing that i would personally consider a "Bug" (The Panic feature) costing and weighing more then a GriGri2. That's why I didn't even mention it in the video.

[@getstrongto7c2]

What should I think about a guy, making a review over the Neox, but using the method for paying out slack of the Grigri ?? You don’t need to do so.

[@derpenberg7814]

Have you tried a trango? One to add to your collection i feel

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@derpenberg7814 Vergo? What's it's unique point of it? How does it stand against competition? Never had a chance to even hold one in my hands.

[@derpenberg7814]

@ShallWeClimb yes, Trango Vergo sorry. It's definitely different to the typical ATC style because it's side ways when paying slack - wonderful if you get to grips with the different style of belaying but definitely a learning curve.

[@therocketeergamer7952]

You came across my feed and I was wondering why you looked familiar, then it clicked cuz I've seen you at the hub lol.

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@therocketeergamer7952 it was cool to meet you yesterday! :)

[@bewimotos]

Have a neox, 2nd time used sounds like a bearing without grease..

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@bewimotos yeah. It has these catches that if you fast feed, it just rattles!

[@sushirofl516]

Then you are using it wrong. You dont need to put your thumb on the cam to feed out slack at all. It belays more or less like a tube style device

[@ShallWeClimb]

That again is a problem with outdoor functionality - as Tube style will not lock, but Neox will, and unlike gym you can't easily step forward and back at some routes, having far more scenarios where rope shorting can occur.

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Why is the WildCountry Revo not more popular? Basically the safest belay device out there and just as easy to feed out rope as the Neox (or a tube).

[@ShallWeClimb]

When it came out it was by far the heaviest belay device out there at 245g without carabiner, (Neox at 235g and Pinch at 234) and has more moving parts then anything else still. Just primed to get clogged up with gunk from the crag! I was considering starting with the rant that Petzl was just cloning Revo but thought it wasn't really fair.

[@Mike-oz4cv]

@@ShallWeClimb I was concerned about the many moving parts of the Revo at first and only used it for indoor climbing at first. I’m now also using it outdoors and so far it has stayed surprisingly clean and works flawlessly. The Neox is quite different since it doesn’t use centrifugal force. As far as I’m aware letting go with your brake hand can be fatal with the Neox, but with the Revo it should be fine (at least as long as it works correctly, I haven’t found any reports of failures on the Internet).

[@jannieuwenhuis3721]

Price!

[@Mike-oz4cv]

@@jannieuwenhuis3721 The Neox has a pretty similar price and other belay devices are not far off.

[@porcupine260680]

life guard would be my pick

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@porcupine260680 it is indeed a surprisingly good and versatile, yet inexpensive belay device.

[@bfkeats]

You’re incorrect about gyms in Ontario. According to my local gym manger, it’s up to them what devices to allow

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@bfkeats that's even worse! But I know some are limited by insurance. And evidently some are just bad on their own

[@AndyBizzzle]

Are you sure?? Pretty sure ontario insurance only allows grigri and double stopper knot after your figure 8. This is what I've been told by a gym owner but he couldve been pulling my leg

[@ShallWeClimb]

That really depends on the Gym! So Boulderz Etobicoke actually Allows lifeguard, and doesn't require stopper knot at all (Like any variation), while Hub allows Neox. Technically if you have grandfathered Tube Belay for TNC - you can belay with ATC like device. (Can't do a test now, but it was possible 5 years ago) but yes, Vast majority - it's ONLY Gri-Gri and ONLY Double fisherman with figure 8. Compared to us where - if you can belay with it, you can use it, and you bring your own belay device even for TR, and Europe where you don't even test, we are backwards here.

[@macmurfy2jka]

@@ShallWeClimbare Canadians more litigious than Americans, serious question? Because all this is mostly driven by fear of lawsuits.

[@ShallWeClimb]

@@macmurfy2jka theoretically - no. But the laws are generally more draconian for some reason. A bunch of Canadians have this - if i think it's too dangerous for me, it's for everyone's, mentality that plagues us in many ways.