PEX Copper Crimp Rings vs. Stainless Steel Clamps

[@nailbender1596]

I've always used pex copper rings. They provide exceptional compression force given a proper installation. The only time I've had to remove a copper ring is on a water heater replacement. In that case, I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to carefully score the copper ring thin enough to then insert a screwdriver into the slot created, twist the screwdriver to break off the copper ring without damaging the pex pipe. Informative video.

[@chrisrioux]

Sounds like it takes a lot longer than popping off stainless steel cinch rings, which can be reused, where cut copper can’t, but that is a really good solution that I will remember! Thank you :)

[@akbychoice]

@@chrisriouxyou don’t reuse the stainless clinch rings after removal.

[@John_Ridley]

@@chrisrioux How the hell would you reuse a cinch ring? The cinch section can only be clamped once. It's trash once removed.

[@chrisrioux]

@@John_Ridley Oh, I thought one of the benefits I read about cinch rings is that they were reusable.. Perhaps I was just thinking of the fact you don't need to cut off/shorten the pex pipe when removing. (But couldn't you simply insert a small flat screwdriver and rotate it to re-expand the cinched part? Although I guess this may make it less reliable.. I have no experience, just been researching for a future DIY project).

[@John_Ridley]

@@chrisrioux It's really not worth it. The rings cost 17 cents each in 100 quantity. It'd suck to have your house flood because you wanted to save 17 cents.

[@weekendhomeprojects]

That's a baller video. Was considering using all sharkbite push-fits for a small project I'm about to do / film. But recently decided I'm going to buy a tool and rings....just didn't know which. I was leaning copper rings but now I think the stainless steel clamps is the way to go.

[@MrHotmunki]

I prefer the copper crimp rings. While the SS clamps have many benefits, I have seen them fail. I trust the crimp rings not to fail

[@meanodustino9563]

I like the crimp style stainless steel as once you crimp it you can SEE it has been compressed. Guy I know and myself did a tug of war trying to pull a pipe section apart showing me how strong these are. Not a chance we could even move them 1mm apart. That sold me

[@jenko701]

It’s worth having both , super tight spot like you showed, the stainless type is great.

[@JefferyChandler]

Thank you! Just what I needed to understand the differences between the 2 types of crimps and how you are able to remove them.

[@NNITRED]

Matt Risinger's pressure test showed the clamps holding strong even after the pex pipe burst at 500psi. I only did a few fittings with the rings before switching to claps and I've never looked back. I got one of those Ryobi P660 (Black Friday $59 Direct Tools) and it's effortless- although I keep my ratchet crimper handy.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Oh awesome on the clamps specs, and that Ryobi P660 looks like the tool of choice to do this repeatedly. Thanks for watching!

[@fixerupperer]

I had the ring tool(same as shown) for a few years before getting a cinch clamp tool and more recently got the ryobi tool. My ryobi came from DTO as well I think from the same sale and wasnt even planned, was on one of my visits to a regional store. More often use cinch clamps because of easier installation and easier removal if necessary.

[@rpsmith]

To remove the stainless steel clamp I use a Dremel too with a cutoff wheel and sever the loop that sticks up in the air. That way you never need to worry about nicking the PEX!

[@Sylvan_dB]

Just use a screwdriver to pop up the almost loose end of the clamp, off the little rivits that are holding it down.

[@rj7826]

I've done the same on many projects around the house.

[@rpsmith]

@@badapple1403 -- There will be nothing "Good" about your side cutters after that kind of abuse!

[@fixerupperer]

Have used a screwdriver or pliers to mechanically pull apart the clamp a few times. Mostly I use my manual cinch tool which has a setting to close the jaws farther to cut the clamp.

[@John_Ridley]

@@rpsmith Knipex my brother. They'll cut through anything and never blink. Sure paying $45 for side cutters hurts but they are the best.

[@ashleylynn8489]

I use PEX A expansion collars more than PEX B rings and clamps, however I've found the stainless cinch clamps quite useful in many situations

[@kawman55]

I'm using the copper crimp rings in bathroom remodel. On three occasions, I erred and used a dremel w/ a small cutoff disc to CAREFULLY cut through the band across it's full width. Was able to remove the ring w/o nicking the pipe itself. Re-crimped and all was fine upon pressure test. Not a technique I'd want to use all the time but in MY limited experience, it can be done successfully. That's not to say the SS clamps aren't inherently more removeable. And I very much second the idea that the copper ring clamp tool is hard to get into tight spaces. I had to adapt my design and prefab some connections in order to make it work for me in some places. Thanks for the insight you've given us.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Wow nice job on the cutting of the copper crimp rings! Yeah you're correct a person would have to be super careful not to cut into the PEX or whatever using a dremmel tool, but good you found a way. Thanks for watching!

[@plumbbuild6517]

Yeah that’s the way I remove copper rings a dremel tool but not cut all the way through and put a flat head screw driver in the slot from the dremel and twist it we’ll pop pretty easy.

[@joedegorostiza8305]

Good video - another convinient reason for clamp style is that you dont need to switch out ring size for different diameter pipes. I have used both and lost my 1 inch ring crimp die.

[@gordonrain7152]

VERY informative video pard'. Your points were well made, and helped me to make a decision on which one to purchase. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!

[@timtimtim5294]

You can normally use an oscillating tool or a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the rings easily.

[@Ariel1S]

There actually is a difference in strength between the two types. The copper ring works by being squeezed into an oval shape, and it presses on the PEX mostly in two places. The stainless ring in contrast squeezes in a complete 360 degree circle around the PEX,.

[@itsalmade9149]

From experience, I will say anybody out there who uses the copper crimp rings, if you have a Dremel with a cutoff wheel or even a multi-tool with a metal cutting blade, it is possible to cut the copper ring very precisely without damaging the pex. And then using a flat head screwdriver to pry the copper apart. I'll be at this can be very difficult depending on where you're cutting and the situation. But it is doable with a Dremel better than a multi-tool.

[@Vincerama]

Another reason everyone needs a Dremel!

[@deliveryguy7402]

I have all three PEX connection tools, the third being for the Uponor PEX type. I use each one several times in a large job because of where the connections need to go. I like PEX work because it is flexible and very easy to make connections where I wouldn't want to put a torch. The Uponor PEX tool is different but works well. Firings for all the PEX types are rising in cost so I buy in bulk and I buy only the connectors I've used on most jobs. I like to go into new work buildings that have PEX piping and pick up off the floor the connectors the plumbers cut out and tossed away. I use my crimp ring cutter tool to clean them up to where I can reuse them again, saving cost for me.

[@Misana-fr2rr]

This video helped me with a customer at the Home Depot; thank you! 🙏

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

That's awesome glad it helped! Thanks for watching! 🛠️

[@da1jo2le]

Thank you so much for the video. I’m not a plumber but since I’m wading into the shower remodeling field I’ve found myself forced to learn the basics of plumbing. I recently did all the plumbing for two showers using pex steel clamps but only because that was the tool I found at the Home Depot. This video helps me see I didn’t do a bad purchase

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Glad it helped, thanks for watching!

[@cometochristtoday]

I developed my basement and did all the pex plumbing myself with little knowledge and home depot tools. I passed the plumbing portion of the inspection by the city. When I made a crimp mistake, I used a dremel tool to cut off the brass rings when I needed to correct a hook up or routing it another direction it worked very well.

[@markdeane1503]

I do both, but favor the Stainless Clamp because one tool does it all, and space constraints. However, on 1" fittings, don't forget to bring a " cheater bar" 'cause the clamp tool will require assistance.

[@SuperUbuntudude]

Thanks for your great review it really helped me out

[@ashleylynn8489]

When I first started using PEX copper rings I had a manual crimp tool with the 1/2" opening in front of the 3/4" opening, so it would often be awkward to use in some situations Because of this I would often use stainless cinch clamps, and eventually purchased different manual and powered crimp tools with size specific heads

[@Seven7Pain1]

I've had the stainless ones leak the copper ones I've never had a leak and zurn makes a set for tight places and it's easy to squeeze check them out

[@joelc9329]

Must have installed the SS ones wrong, I’ve installed many and have had no leaks.

[@Seven7Pain1]

@@joelc9329 I've been using pex since 2001 and I'm a master plumber all them rings have caused leaks cause homeowners can afford tool and they try to do it themselves and flood there own house I've never bought that cheap tool always have had crimpers for copper rings but gave pics of them rings failing

[@joelc9329]

You must have installed them wrong.

[@RobertDean-x5e]

Can you use the crimp style connector on poly propylene. Pipe ?

[@ronh9384]

Thanks for sharing. It was an informative video. I personally prefer the Pex-A expansion system but I do occasionally use the the cinch ring Pex-B system…

[@russellseaton2014]

I use the stainless steel clamp rings on PEX tubing. Tool to clamp them can be operated one hand and will fit easily inside a joist bay in the basement. And tool also fits inside a sink cabinet when clamping on the valves to the PEX tubing under the sink. Also the stainless steel clamp rings are the same as band clamps. Everyone uses and knows how to use band clamps. And they are always successful. Familiarity.

[@azrock235]

Thanks for the comparison E. Handyman! Nicely done! Be safe.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Thanks for checking it out AZ!

[@azrock235]

@@TheEclecticHandyman 👍🏼

[@John-vk1ij]

Do these two type of rings/clamps use the same connector?

[@TheKajunkat]

I mainly use the SS rings when access is an issue. Sometimes it is the only thing that will fit. Almost all my work is retrofit and repair, hardly ever new construction. The corrosion issue with stainless steel is chloride induced stress corrosion cracking. You have to be careful with them anywhere there is salt or chlorine in the area and heat (140 F plus) or they will crack. For normal municipal water they should last a lifetime.

[@jake-mv5oi]

Would CV joint boot crimpers work with the stainless steel type? Looks almost identical.

[@1768ify]

Good video! I think that it is important to point out that a conventional Oetiker crimp tool will not apply enough force to close the PEX ring. Menards has the rings, but not the tool. I was able to find a Shark Bite branded crimp tool at Lowes.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Thanks for the info!

[@scottk0623]

I’ve used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cutoff the copper rings carefully scoring them without damaging tubing.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Yeah a couple of others mentioned this technique as well. Just have to be very careful not to cut into the PEX. Thanks for watching!

[@John_Ridley]

Stainless steel 3/4" are $17 for 100 on Amazon. I bought a ratcheting multi pull cinch tool that's WAY easier to use than either of the ones shown, and fits into much smaller spaces. The cinch tool is MUCH easier to get on to a pipe that's tight against the wall - you may not be able to get the crimp tool around at all. The cinch uses the same tool for 3/8 all the way to 1 inch tubing. I just started with Pex and I saw a lot of examples on YT about using the crimp stuff, but once I saw the cinch rings and tools, IMO it's no comparison, I'm using cinch all the way. BTW I doubt those cinch rings are patented for Pex specifically - they're the exact hose clamp design that's been used in automotive pipes since I think the 1980s.

[@Vincerama]

Just a note about the tools. Both tools come with smaller ratcheting single hand tools, that are much smaller than the "bolt cutters" and there are also battery powered versions of the tools (Ryobi makes reasonably priced ones) for bigger jobs... but of course if you are a homeowner, what are you going to do with the powered tool once you're done your project? At least the hand tools don't take up much space and will basically always work.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Yes great advice, and if I was a professional I'd surely go with a battery powered version for repeated use. Thanks for watching!

[@davidgahafer3115]

I got a Ryobi battery operated pinch clamper. It's awesome

[@adk1guy]

I have had two of the stainless steel pinch clamps fail and cause emergency calls and water damage. Plus I have had type b pex break from freezing. I have had zero failures from type A pex with expansion joint and therefore am going to type a exclusively

[@transformationofthebride2295]

Pex A don't last, they burst with age. There is a big lawsuit against the company.

[@adk1guy]

the lawsuit alleges the red and blue colored tubing fails. Uponor says they have discontinued the solid colors. Luckily for me I have only used the semi transparent and I have never had a joint fail. Plus the flexibility aids installation.

[@ToddM452]

The ring tool is very hard to get over the ring if close to a wall or joist. The SS clamp works off the end of the tool which is easier IMO. The rings have a better finish appearance however.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

I agree. I too actually like the look of the copper rings better as they don't have the end that sticks out like the SS ones, but the SS ones are advantageous per the things I mentioned in the video. Thanks for watching!

[@ritalockett9788]

Good information. It looks like the stainless steel clamps would be easier to use, putting on or taking off. Very informative video.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Yeah I learned a lot in a short amount of time as I had a plumbing leak on that line I needed to fix. I saved like $300 doing it myself. Thanks for watching Rita!

[@danielaugust3020]

Best video so far on subject

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching! 🛠️

[@loridave1962]

Thx for the vid. Gosh. Pick up the two plastic sacks and set them by their crimpers. Careful about warranty reduction when mixing manufacturers products.

[@MrRockydee07]

I've done crosslinking on plastic tubing in the 70's for military purposes.

[@dandexinventor]

Just two weeks ago I had to open our wall above the shower stall as water was trickling through, to learn a SS clamp had rusted through and failed finally. My first thought was wondering how it rusted if it was SS...? I took a magnet and it it pulled right to it, so it was not pure SS. Either way, at least six years ago, it was not installed properly by a crew which retro-fitted that old gray tubing which was found to be faulty, so now I have had to replace not only gray tubing they missed, but those "SS" rings they used. I guess they could have been cheap ones, but not sure as I could not read a brand through the corrosion. I went with the copper and broke down and bought a Milwaukee 18V crimp tool, which I'm glad I did now that I've had to do dozens of repairs in our house and the neighbors are asking if I can help them as well. A few years ago I worked with a Master Plumber who used only PEX A/Uponur and I really liked that system as well. The expansion tool was $400 (M12), but that was my favorite system out of all I have worked with over the last 25 years. It also has better reputation among contractors I know (doing remodels for 34 years). Uponur fittings are a true full-capacity as well whereas the other systems' openings drop down in diameter and restrict flow. I learned how to sweat copper in all this, mostly because I was curious, but I found myself getting nervous about fires occurring when framing was close by. I can do it, but I'd rather use the Uponur fittings.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Appreciate the feedback based on your experience. I too if I had my way would sweat copper fittings, but this is easier and quicker as you mentioned. Thanks for watching!

[@skrubnagrom8061]

Can these stainless steel clamps be used on polybutylene ??

[@billhearing3355]

Very informative, thank you.

[@valvenegas7490]

Why is my 3/4" copper ring slightly to big for a washer cabinet? It doesn't grab the capacitor after i crimp. And 1/2" pex with a 1/2" copper ring is to small.

[@allnineyards1745]

Very well explained. Thank you

[@walnutcontractors5661]

You can get confined access crimpers, they look like little guillotines and you tighten them with a ratchet. But in general I don't have anything against using the pinch crimps - I have that tool as well though I've only used it maybe once. Nice to just have the copper rings and crimpers and not have to carry around another tool / another set of rings.

[@MileyonDisney]

Great info! Thanks!

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Glad it was helpful!

[@moxiex2300]

I have problems slide the fitting into the Pex pipe. Can you use a drop of any type of lubricate to make it slide on easier?

[@jamesjackson4224]

Use a hacksaw or cutoff wheel to cut a slit across the copper ring stopping before you cut into the pex and then pry it off with a screwdriver works for me. I prefer the copper rings, seen more leaks from the stainless clamps.

[@ronnicolas4001]

In my experience, on vertical runs the clamp rings are easier to keep in place for keeping correct spacing.

[@foxywolf1777]

I know that I will probably not ever do any pipe work , but nice to know how things work in your house, and by watching, I know I now have a usable reference 🐾🦊🐺

[@failingdisciple938]

About Shark Bite, I’m not a plumber and inexperienced at plumbing. I’ve used them for years. No leaks. Ever. I don’t understand why people are down on em 🙂

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Yeah it's not an old school mentality or anything, it's just need to see how they stand up to say sweating copper after 20+ years. In their docs IIRC Sharkbite guarantees up to 20 years. Tough to say. Like most if I was to use them it would be in exposed plumbing only (not behind a wall).

[@ashleylynn8489]

Of all the failures we've seen, most are prep and installation error related, whether it's copper sweat, ProPess, brazing, compression, push to connect, threaded, flared, glued etc That said, the most inexperienced DIY types tend to favor push to connect fittings, so prep and installation errors are more common Many professionals and more experienced DIY types don't like overuse of push to connects, nor using them in enclosed spaces

[@GastonGalibois]

I use both compression rings, copper and stainless steel. I wonder why the ½ inch stainless steel rings are 25% narrower than the ¾ inch ones since the distance of the ribs on the fittings are the same for both. Copper ones are the same size for ½ and ¾.

[@Seven7Pain1]

Sharkbite pex and fitting are great it's the shark bite push fittings that have issues

[@marktrittipo4691]

Great reviews, comments and video. Next time please put the tools right next to the style of ring they are used for (not on opposite sides). A little confusing there

[@ChristopherVPepe]

Sold me on the stainless steel clamps...................Thank you!

[@bat__bat]

Are screw-type hose clamps against code or something?

[@Bowhunters6go8xz6x]

I like the stainless steel better, the house I recently bought (few years ago) the copper rings developed blue/green type corrosion and I had one that failed (started leaking) but still felt tight, I replaced it and some other copper rings that had corrosion with stainless steel and bought the crimp ring tool for stainless and haven't looked back, stanless are easy to remove with a pair of diagonal side cutting pliers if you need to do so. I worked on aircraft for 30 years including large aircraft and on 3.000 - 4,000 psi aircraft hydraulics we use stainless steel on everything (lines, fittings, etc. (not copper) so maybe that is one reason I like the stainless.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

That's awesome the insight you have to this as an aircraft mechanic - in my house I don't mind spending the extra for stainless steel on all types of fasteners for that extra security and longevity. Appreciate the comment, and thanks for watching! 🛠️

[@igoski1582]

I remove a copper ring with a cut off wheel without cutting the pipe. Then bend the cut ring with a flat screwdriver. If you're careful and take your time and not damage the PEX pipe, you can reuse the same pipe being the same length. To remove the pipe from the fitting, you have to heat the pipe to make it soft and it will come right off. My experience, a heat gun will not get it hot enough. I use a torch and it doesn't take much or very long to get it hot, just 2 or 3 seconds. With practice and experience you can get good at it if you need to remove a PEX joint with this method.

[@GP-SEA]

LOL puts the clamp tool next to the crimp rings and vice versa. You can *carefully* cut off copper crimp rings using a Dremel cut-off wheel.

[@izzzzzz6]

Hi. Have you experimented with over sized fittings and expanding the pipe before fitting them like in PEX A? In order to reduce flow restriction at the joints. Or is it just easier to oversize the pipe and fittings to compensate for flow restriction on non expanding fitment systems?

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

Unfortunately I have not worked with oversized fittings or worked with oversized pipes to impact the flow. Maybe another plumber can chime in of they have. Thanks for watching!

[@deliveryguy7402]

Pex A works well except in a very cold situation because the pipe may not shrink back to original size. I keep my heat gun plugged in in these situations as heat makes the pipe shrink.

[@r.b.8626]

Does Milwaukee have a tool for this ?

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

They have M12 and M18 Press Tool kits, but wow they are expensive. I'd only recommend that for pros, or someone doing a large project that they can get a return on that investment. milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Plumbing-Installation/Press-Tools

[@randyscrafts8575]

I don't bother with the $27 removal tool. I use my dremel with a cutoff wheel. Works great. The differences in PEX rings: Copper, you may damage the outside of the PEX pipe but if you're very careful you won't. Stainless, just cut the tab in half, it'll fall apart. You won't be anywhere near the pipe. In both cases you'll need to heat the PEX after you've gotten the ring pried off to get the fitting out otherwise you'll have to cut it off anyway. Voila....done.

[@mattheweburns]

It looks like you put the clamps a little bit high on the collar

[@jimharvard]

PEX specifies that either clamp be installed "no more than" 1/8th of an inch from the end of the tubing. i agree, i think this guys PEX clamps are too far back on the tubing. if you look at the "machined ridges" on all PEX fittings, you will see that clamping at the 1/8th inch mark is the optimum location for catching the fittings ridges.

[@ynnebbenny]

What is the grade of Stainless steel? We live near the sea and the air eats copper for lunch.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

I couldn't find the grade on their spec sheet, but you might try reaching them directly to inquire. Here is the direct link for that product: www.sharkbite.com/us/en/pex-pipe/pipe-supports/stainless-steel-clamp-ring

[@cgwworldministries83]

For stainless steel crimps, to remove, turn the crimpers at a 45 degree angle so instead of crimping you're essentially doing it "wrong". Crimp down and twist, and it snaps them loose. No special second tool required.

[@BigBlueDog8]

To have a connection that close to the wall I would use a threaded connection of some sort.

[@nicolasmuniz9452]

I've encountered rusty/deteriorating cinch clamps in damp areas, todays stainless steel is not like before, quality lacking in a lot in the fastener field these days

[@wallacegrommet9343]

There were probably some dissimilar metals nearby, creating an electric current. Mixing metals at a connection is to be avoided. Go all brass, all steel, all bronze, etc. The cheapest stainless steel will rust over time, but thats more of a problem in very damp locations or saltwater environments

[@ReynaldoAbasr]

dont you have a ryobi cordless ring crimper

[@hpb5495]

A little confusing where on the get-go you show the crimp tool with stainless clamps beside it and the clamp tool with the copper cinch rings beside it. Swap the bags and it would make sense.

[@mdk2066]

You know, you could probably switched tools or fittings pretty easily for clarification. And they make an offset crimper for tight situations.

[@shockingguy]

OK so are you using the recommended fittings from the recommended pipe manufacturer if not you have just voided your warranty on your PEX

[@jimharvard]

i've done quite a bit of PEX installation. here in Pittsburgh, PA NONE of the commercial plumbers use the stainless steel "crimp" fasteners. all plumbers here ONLY use the copper "crush" rings because they have a superior clamping ability over the stainless crimp rings. when one is installing PEX tubing, you should always leave enough end space to get the orange crush ring tool into the space. i don't understand the guy's issue with the pipe he says is too close to get the orange tool into. it looks to me that he could cut the PEX at the 90 degree angle and just pull the pipe back through the wall and install another longer pipe. i have never used the stainless crimp rings for PEX and never plan to. i worked at a Home Depot store in the plumbing department for 8 years and i never sold any of the stainless rings to "professional" plumbers.

[@angelrey646]

Which Is which?

[@jimharvard]

@@angelrey646 the copper crush rings are the simple round rings that look like a cheap, basic wedding ring - actually some plumbers call them "wedding rings." the "crimp rings" are the stainless steel silver rings that look something like hose clamps. those clamps have multiple "slots" in them and when you use the "crimp" tool, it draws the ring together until one of the tabs slides over and goes into one of the slots.

[@angelrey646]

@@jimharvard thank you! I’m in PA too.

[@garagekeys]

Professional plumbers use expansion PEX mostly and go to the supply house unless in a pinch and go to HD

[@jimharvard]

@@garagekeys where are you? regular PEX is popular with plumbers here in PA

[@aerodicus]

My ocd is going crazy with those bags placed wrong.

[@thomasngo3746]

I could the copper ring with the angle grinder, the hacksaw. You don't need the open end to cut the copper rings. I don't have the copper ring removal tool and I could cut it with many different cutting tool and I don't even need an open end.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

That's good to know. You just have to be very, very careful not to cut or damage the PEX. Depending on how tight the area is with the plumbing it might be difficult to get the grinder or a cutter in place. Thanks for watching!

[@hdrob8094]

Or you can just cut the copper ring with a hacksaw blade. You still have to be careful so you don't hurt the pipe. You can even cut through the ring most of the way and then break it off with a pair of pliers. I mean it's worked well for me!

[@nel1803]

Awesome Video Thank U

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

You bet, thanks for watching!

[@Treeclimberadrenaline]

The stainless let's the fittings spin the copper ones do not. This is why I like the stainless better. Plus the tool clearance is key.

[@ck2503]

@ 4:55 - Whole lot of talking here about a supposed "issue" that a dremel would make about 10 seconds work out of........

[@nhtom8]

Noobie here. First there are 2 types of Pex. OK. So I bought me a crimp tool and some rings. It don't fit. Now he tells me there are 2 types of crimps each requiring different not-so-cheap tools. Argggg!! I don't like surprises. At least I know I'm not loosing it. Thanks! Now to buy another tool or a set of new rings. Hot Monkey (mrhotmunki) suggests copper so I guess I'll go with that.

[@nhtom8]

Feel free to make some kind of joke on whether to expect your plumbing to be in tight spaces.

[@excatholicatheist]

SS ones are better. Yes, harder to use the tool, but the go/no go gauge is ridiculous. I had a brand new Apollo crimp tool that overcrimped, according to the gauge, even set at zero

[@sam.merritt]

I think you are only assuming that stainless steel has less of a problem with corrosion. Stainless steel isn't rust free, it just rusts less than normal steel. Stainless steel exposed to salt water will eventually rust to nothing but copper will patina and stop rusting entirely. I haven't done the tests myself either but I'm pretty sure the copper rings have much less of a problem with corrosion than stainless steel

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Copper rings will stain surroundings and corrode fairly rapidly in a saltwater environment. Bronze or 316 stainless steel (my mistake,not sure whether 516 alloy actually exists) are preferred in a saltwater environment. Apollo makes a stainless steel crimp sleeve, so that’s a third option

[@sam.merritt]

@@wallacegrommet9343 You're right, of course. I was thinking of stainless vs bronze (not pure copper). Stainless steel will rust away to nothing but bronze will patina and then stop corroding essentially forever.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Stainless steel needs to be in an oxygen-rich environment in order for a protective oxide layer to form (passivation). As a boater on salt water, exposed fasteners are usually stainless, electrical and embedded fasteners are a mix of tin plated brass terminal screws, some silicon bronze for high strength, and 316 stainless (the good stuff). I learned about ship materials from a former officer in the Cunard Lines, whom I took care of until his death at age 96. He was also a marine accident investigator with the Canadian Government. Wonderful man.

[@bills6946]

I go with the copper compression every time. The stainless steel clamp can fail because it is a mechanical clamp. The crimp is permanent. Callbacks are free and a popped connection can be expensive.

[@genechicago4806]

In tight spaces, wouldn't it be easier to use a stainless steel hose clamp? With a hose clamp you can easily unscrew it if you need to revmove it. Another advantage would be that we don't neeed to buy a large bulky tooll.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

The problem with a hose clamp is they can fail or loosen and aren't great for high pressure scenarios. They often leak and I don't know any plumber that would use them. A solid connection (either type in this video) if properly done should provide a leak-free secure connection for PEX setups, that's on par to sweating pipe if it was a copper setup.

[@Vincerama]

A dremel could probably get in to that tight space to very carefully cut the crimp ring.

[@txman201]

Too bad you didn't cover the THIRD connection type - the stainless steel CRIMP connection, which is different from the SS clamp you review.

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

So I've seen stainless steel PEX sleeves, but not familiar or seen much in the way of stainless steel crimp rings; only copper crimp rings.

[@txman201]

@@TheEclecticHandyman the stainless crimp rings are probably not as popular since they can't be compressed with a standard mechanical hand tool -need a more expensive hydraulic hand tool or a pro-press tool with the appropriate dies. Copper will corrode over time and fail in buried applications due to moisture in particular.

[@CentralNH]

In tight spaces like a camper the stainless is a no brainier.

[@tombstone2826]

Pex has its place I still prefer COPPER ! anytime over Pex !

[@NNITRED]

Those sharkbite brand clamps you have there are actually genuine Oetiker clamps. It doesn't get much better than the company that invented the system .

[@theguardingdark1183]

Why didn't you cut the brass fitting since it is bad so you could cut the copper ring. Also a dremel or a hack saw will take those copper rings off easy. Just be careful.

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Copper ring for new construction, cheaper. SS crimp for repairs, accessible.

[@izzzzzz6]

Why is everyone against sharkbite? Is it because they started with crappy push together ones?

[@TheEclecticHandyman]

So I'm not a professional plumber, but from my own knowledge as well as the plumbers I've spoke with, it's kind of a homeowners solution for those that don't know how to sweat copper. The Sharkbite has an internal seal supposedly with a 25 year guarantee. A lot of the copper plumbing I have is older than that. I think a leak can be one of the most costly and damaging repairs that spooks homeowners (like me) so when it comes to water tight plumbing I want the best. I had 1 contractor put a Sharkbite connector behind a wall and it makes me so nervous. Part of me wants to cut out that drywall and have that connector removed.

[@joeharvie8362]

I much prefer the copper rings. The stainless need to be crimped at the proper angle to the ring or it does not compress enough to seal and will leak at test time. That give the copper an edge for faster production especially in tight spots.

[@hvacdr]

Guys a trick I discovered on my own if u have a leak in plastic pipes.... you can drastically slow the leak down by shutting off the water and rapping the heck out of the leak with electric tape. Use like a whole roll or half an roll and just go to town on it. Then turn the water on but also turn it only like half way on or less and the leak will be reduced to less than a 12th or maybe a 15th. It's nice if ur leak is in the ground and ur waiting for a part or a plumber or what not. I had to do this for over 2 months because I hurt my leg then I got covid so I couldn't get to it. With the tape it really didn't Leake that much. My water bill only went up by 20 a month

[@brown96chris]

Not smart. Why didn't you you move the clamp rings so as to be adjacent the their respective clamp tools. Avoid confusion.

[@herod9348]

Once crimp applied to pipe, need to cut out pipe anyway, its been compromised.

[@mtofellful]

You kind of lose me when you start off apologizing because you don't have the tools set next to their respective parts and then talking about removing fittings but you don't have the tool pictured.

[@lester300zx1986]

I like cringe tool better

[@WApnj]

You know the display is backwards and then you don't correct it. How are we to take your information seriously ?

[@nef003]

He did explain. Don’t be a tool. 😂

[@Meatwad.Baggins]

Yeah! Let's hackle this guy to no end. 😅🤣

[@OhKindSir]

You can’t… the tools haven’t even been unpacked. Thought this was an unboxing video.

[@RectanerTreadway]

Its silly, but admittedly this bothered me as well. Anyway thanks for the tips.

[@jszorc3488]

Who cares? He corrected himself! Take it easy Mario the plumber!