Phase One medium format P-series backs

[@necron1050]

I have a 645 df, the reason i use the vertical grip is for the batteries, i struggled to find the right batteries for the body an the one i have is mostly dead. The grip takes the same cannon bp-915 batteries and the p series back, so now the camera is down to a single battery system.

[@xdchrisrobert]

Great video! Any video update with photos from the P21+? Would love to see!

[@fmrphoto]

Interesting you said that about muted colors on older backs, I find that new backs are so punchy. I actually still shoot some portraits with a Canon 1ds mkii. There's just something about that sensor.

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

1Ds II was my first pro body. I’ve a soft spot for that workhorse camera.

[@Ivlodded]

I once had the opportunity to use a Phase One with a p30 back for a weekend and fell in love. That was 6 years ago. Now I bought myself a Phase One p30+, a Phase One 645 and a Phase one 40mm Lens. One question I do have is: whats the difference between the p30 and p30+? Is it possible to connect the p30+ back to a laptop, and set the Camera to Mirror Lock, and use Live view via a firewire tether setup? Is the p30+ Back capable of taking pictures with electric shutter only?

[@LetterBeacon]

Thanks for the video! I've been using a 645DF+ with a P65+ and now an IQ1 60 for the last year. I love the image quality, but I find the autofocus very tricky. I take portraits mostly, and I find that I have more than the usual amount of out of focus shots. Often the AF will lock onto the ears of a subject. Do you have any AF tips at all?

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I don’t shoot people and I don’t shoot commercial with it, I’m afraid. Shame you’re not getting the hit rate, because skin tones are beautiful with these backs. Have you tried mf, like the good ol’ days…?

[@Hauntswind]

Try using a tripod, I have an iq180 and P25 model, handheld can be nightmare sometimes. Let your model know to be patient, also try to shoot tether so you can see outcome. Good luck!

[@Ivlodded]

@@thearchitecturalphotograph2973 Great to see you still comenting on such an old vid :)

[@bencevarga6304]

Doesnt it have a smile recognition feature? That might be turned on.

[@milesmetcalfe94]

You may already know about it but they did make a dedicated manual focus screen for this series of cameras, called the type C screen, they obviously don’t make them any more but they come up on eBay from time to time but i used to have on for my AFDii and it worked wonders for focusing manually, I can’t remember if it had a split prism but it might have done. It didn’t affect the AF performance at all just made the finder slightly brighter and much easier for manual focusing. The way i understand it is that modern focusing screens are optimised for lenses with a maximum aperture of 2.8 and the dedicated manual focus one is optimised for lenses with apertures faster than that. Thanks for the video :)

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I’m not sure I did. Thanks very much for the tip!

[@markwalsh4mtr]

Lovely to see someone else using this camera. I'm interested in the 50mm shift you have fitted there. Are they worth the effort of hunting down a good example of these? Contrast and resolution in particular. I'm running the P45+ back.

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

The 50mm shift is wicked. Beautifully mechanically simple and great image quality.

[@andrewthompson5609]

Great video. You cant beat digital backs. One small detail I noticed is the P45 was not a full size sensor back. They were 49x37. The P65+ was the first full size 645 back at 54x42

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I had no idea, despite owning one!

[@thepioneer9677]

I love the older CCD sensors. The image looks so much more textured. A lot more like traditional film but with a depth and sharpness of digital. Its hard to explain. IA bit like watching a film on plasma. I recently got a P65+ which is an amazing back. With teh option of having smaller size raw with much higher ISO's never really found on MF. I also use it on my Mamiya RZ which gives me a whole new system to play with when i need to work slower and with the quality of the mamiya lenses.

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I’d love to see you do a video in this setup. Sounds like I could learn a lot from it.

[@KristofferTrolle]

How did it ever go with that P21? I use the Kodak Pro Back 645, same sensor as the P20, and that sensor is just the best. But I would love something more modern, that also has good colors

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

Apologies. I must do a follow up video…

[@joolstacho8114]

Any advice on a digital back that's usable on my Mamiya 645 Pro ? (I'm not worried about Autofocfus).

[@iStobs]

This is the best video about the P-series. Thank you for sharing these comparisons and using your wonderful images to do so. It really shows off the P-series potential. EDIT: One question, do you know if the P25+ exhibits the same qualities that you love about the images from the P20? That is, does it have the fat pixels and lovely colors?

[@bcm-s2d]

not sure if it helps, but I have both the P20 and the P25, the latter because it shares the same 9 micron pixel features with the P20. Both look great

[@AlexDerrick_DP]

18 megapixel photos measure in at 5184 pixels wide by 5184 ?

[@NuraliKushkov]

Thanks for a great review!! Do you have any idea if p30+ has a similar/identical look to p21+?

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

Hello and thank you. The only thing I’m aware of with the P30(+?) is that it has some sort of micro-lens surface that causes conflict if used on a camera with movements. Sorry, I’ve not used one myself..

[@DenisStosic]

Hello and thank you for a very informative explanation about Phase One backs. I work for Museums and a lot of products and portrait photography with Nikon cameras. Would you be so kind and recommend me which model of Phase One camera to buy on the used market? I saw a lot of well-priced models Mamiya/Phase one but as you said what about service of the older models?

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I guess something newer that you can tether. I’m afraid I’ve had no experience with the newer backs. Good luck.

[@DenisStosic]

@@thearchitecturalphotograph2973 Thank you :-)

[@nana4ma]

Can this P series back tether to capture one 10 pro?

[@Hauntswind]

@@nana4ma yes u can

[@re002]

Thanks for the video, that was very interesting! Looking for an MF camera myself, but can't make up my mind if I should spend 1,5-2K on an old system, when I can pick up a GFX for 4K used. Hope to see more uploads from you! :)

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I’m tempted by the GFX 50R for work. Dynamic range looks exceptional, and I can use my Canon glass on it. Good luck in your choice.

[@chilecayenne]

A few months ago, I scored a GFX100 used, from B&H...I honestly can't see any use on it, was looking brand new to me. They had the GF50mm lens on sale for $499 and I jumped on it. So far, it is AMAZING. I've been shooting Canon 5D3 since it came out....and I love the GFX. I have adapted my Canon EF glass to the GFX with good results, even auto focus works, etc. What I find really fun, is that I bought the Metabones Speedbooster adapter/focal reducer and am using my Hasselblad V System (film) glass on the GFX with some really amazing results. Yes, it's manual focus but the focus peaking on the camera helps that, the color is really fun. I spent a lot of my camera savings for the year on the GFX, so I'm big on adapted lenses and it works VERY well with them, I imagine the GFX50 will do the same. I will say, however, if you can save a bit more and go for the GFX100...that IBIS alone is worth the price of the ride, especially for 100MP on a large sensor like that. Good luck, I think ya'll will be happy with any of the GFX line. The native lenses are amazing too!! I've rented a few....

[@re002]

@@chilecayenne thanks for the input, I appreciate that!

[@fluffthecat]

Hi, I’m thinking of buying the Phase One DF. Have you had any issues with the body batteries? I’ve heard it can gobble through power!

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

I’ve not had the df. I’ve never gone the full hour exposure (is that 30mins + 30mins dark frame…?). Neither have I owned batteries from new, so I can’t be sure mine hold the full juice. Sorry I can’t be more help.

[@andyvan5692]

you use the grip for the battery capacity!!, simple as that, as this battery can power the back to, and also with digital, this battery/camera body tells the back lens settings, and communicates flash data between them, this takes power, and a lot of it, so for all day wedding and other genre's this is essential to going through a day without constantly changing batteries.

[@zliu5186]

Hello, may I know the exact name of the body? PhaseOne 645AF, isnt it? thanks....I am looking for one for my lovely P25+....) AFD, AFDII, AFDIII, DF......

[@zliu5186]

1:34.....AFD III.....thanks

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

PhaseOne AF = AFD III.

[@zliu5186]

Thank you :)

[@Ivandotjpeg]

Wait, is this a phase one DF+? Which body is this?

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

Phase One AF. Basically a rebadged Mamiya AFD III.

[@Ivandotjpeg]

@@thearchitecturalphotograph2973 ahh… so, what is the absolute best digital back you can get for this body?

[@ja12n05]

@@Ivandotjpeg - Support for all P an P+ - P40+, P65+ requires the Mamiya AFDIII / Phase One AF to have firmware 1.5 or later - IQ1 and IQ2 CCD backs are not supported after Digital Back firmware 5.10 - Credo 40/60/80 is not supported after Digital Back firmware 2.01 - Credo 50 is not supported

[@erome5903]

It can take film back?

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

Yes

[@msamiullah001]

great video, what watch is this if you dnt mind me asking

[@gufo2020]

this backs are becoming affordable even for common amateurs....but very little is known about their quality :( Hope my recently purchased Aptus22 will last for some time...i was simply amazed by its colors and sharpness.

[@thearchitecturalphotograph2973]

Top man!

[@ddolde]

Boring

[@adamhayek7889]

u suck

[@milesmetcalfe94]

You may already know about it but they did make a dedicated manual focus screen for this series of cameras, called the type C screen, they obviously don’t make them any more but they come up on eBay from time to time but i used to have on for my AFDii and it worked wonders for focusing manually, I can’t remember if it had a split prism but it might have done. It didn’t affect the AF performance at all just made the finder slightly brighter and much easier for manual focusing. The way i understand it is that modern focusing screens are optimised for lenses with a maximum aperture of 2.8 and the dedicated manual focus one is optimised for lenses with apertures faster than that. Thanks for the video :)