Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon P0449 Repair

[@Dentonboy]

TY for this video. Purchased a 2006 Canyon about 1 month ago used. It was showing the P0449 code. I bought the parts you recommended for less than 30 usd. Only issue I had was getting the vent hoses off. Worked on them for over an hour and decided to do it on the truck. The hole assembly hung down pretty good and I cut it off on the truck and then installed new one also. Thx for all the info to make this a fairly easy job and a lot more affordable. I reset the code and its running like a charm!

[@donsemple9774]

Two hours work saved me over $400 - yes, today's price at a local shop. I did not remove the spare. It was rusted on so tight I chose to use a lift and jack stands. I also added some high-temp electrical tape around the hose at the new solenoid for good measure. Thanks for the great and accurate video!

[@TheFrogsled]

Just finished doing this replacement on 2008 Colorado with 5 cylinder engine. I bought the part (2M1062) from Rockauto and it had the correct connector (oval) for my truck, thus no adapter needed. Thanks Martin for helping me save money on this fix.

[@Pepiv1]

Martin, excellent video and thanks for the part numbers. I was researching them on ebay and actually was able to come up with AC Delco number 214-2147 which is just the solenoid with oval connector for less than $20.00. Just wanted to throw that out there if someone wanted to try and save some money. Thanks again for the video!!

[@FordDude.]

Thank you for this video I just bought a 07 Colorado just like yours and I have been racking my brain trying to get my truck to pass emission for a week now. I've changed gas cap that was almost $100 bucks which was a stupid crazy price at the dealership and the thermostat which was $91 bucks at the parts store again another stupid crazy price for one of those. Thank you for showing the part #'s to both the solenoid and the adapter I found both parts on amazon for $36.80 USA because I live in GA in one of the few counties where we have to have emissions. I didn't know this truck had a charcoal canister or the solenoid so again a big thanks for showing how easy it is to change the parts yourself.

[@chrissmith8691]

Thanks Martin for taking the time to add every step along the way and not to mention how we all have saved $ because of your research into optionally parts!

[@cashbikes]

Thanks man you are a genius, I temporarily “fixed” the problem and I got no more codes, I did it almost as you did it just that I used a small 12v bulb and it cheated the computer, I tried before the solenoid valve arrives and it worked thanks to your video, thanks again for your knowledge.

[@sdrass]

Thank you so much for your terrific post and passing on your knowledge!! I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado 4-cyl 2.8L two-wheel drive with 224, 800 miles. It still runs perfectly. I first replaced my gas cap to see if that would remove the P0449 codes but it didn't, even after trying to erase them with my OBDII device. Then I found your video and your method worked perfectly for replacing the vapor canister vent solenoid. Yes, you are right, much easier to do this with spare tire removed. A couple of things: I tried to use hot water to loosen the hose and pry it off but that would not work--softens things up too much. Your crushing method worked great after the part cooled off. I took your advice and bought a new AC Delco H3 solenoid ($18.39 at Amazon) and, curiously, my OLD wiring plug fit perfectly into the NEW H3 solenoid socket. Go Figure!! So I returned the wiring adapter. The part numbers for that H3 solenoid that fit my old plug is AC Delco Part# 214-2149 and GM# 25932571. Someone might be able to try that part? Codes: I started the truck right after the repair, let it warm up for ten minutes and then I hooked up my OBDII device and was rather disappointed to still see code P0449 (a current and a pending) on the screen. However, I didn't despair, I drove the truck around town and upon return, shut it off, attached the OBDII, retrieved the codes, erased them and they have never come back. So, SUCCESS, thanks to you. Thank you so much again. Keep up the good work, sharing your knowledge and producing good video.

[@scottrsmithap]

This was a HUGE help. Thank you for posting. Found the part on Amazon for $15. Two things from my install..... 1.) I have an '05 Canyon and didn't need the electrical harness. 2.) I didn't cut off near the hose. I just crushed it with a wrench and pulled out the pieces. Excellent video!

[@horsetheef]

Thank you so much!! You saved me a bunch! Bought solenoid-only for $16 USD and adapter for $16 USD (both on Amazon), about 30 minutes of fairly easy work (after watching your fabulous video!) and done. Bought MS300 to clear codes for $15 USD (also Amazon) and it hasn't come back. Had a little bit of fun getting the vacuum tube on the new solenoid (which might be why they sell it already on there) but a little Vaseline fixed that. Might also help with the vacuum seal so no big deal. How can you beat $32 USD and 30m to save what sounds like a $300 to $500 potential cost? I am so happy!!!! Thank you again for your time and effort. This was terrific!

[@valjean246019430]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to show the extra details of what to expect and how to deal with them. Great Job !!!

[@bepilc]

The parts arrived today, I soaked the vaccum tank mounting bolt (13 mm hex) with liquid wrench, I had trouble with one of the special hose fasteners coming loose, so I used a pair of welder's vice grips to hold the 2 white release tabs on the 90 degree hose connector, while I held tank in one hand and twisted the plastic hose with the other. Once I broke the male plastic tube connection (per video) on the old defective solenoid, I sprayed silicone on the new solenoid mail tube and slightly in the old 90 degree plastic line and kept pressing them together (for about 10 minutes) and twisting the hose, finally it seated up on the solenoid properly. Dealer wanted $335.00, took an hour laying in my driveway gravel AND the $28.00 for the solenoid and special wire connector. I had to drive vehicle for about a mile before the little engine shaped light when out. Thank for video! P.S. I didn't lower the spare tire, AND did get dirt in my face.

[@Captaintripps1]

I got both parts cost me 51.87 for the harness and the canister but that beats paying 147.99 plus tax im so thankful i i watched your video

[@MrNickelodion]

I'm null of knowledge on evap system, but you what your mastering tour and explanation make me feel confident to give a try with it. I really appreciate your effort en dedication to explain all details about this subject, for me it's all clear now, thanks so much!!!!

[@jimmason2201]

Thanks Martin! What a great video for addressing this issue. I especially appreciated you safety comments, like wearing eye protection was extremely benefitial.

[@RK2008MD]

Hi Martin just got mine today 112.00 everything include hose was already connect with the harness just take the old one off and put the new one on.Tks in a million to make us save money .It was deliver right at my door a happy man.to bad I cannot post the parts here would should it

[@knuckelhead225]

ordered the acdelco cilinoid off amazon for 17 dollars took me 20 min tops to change out didn't have to drop the spare didn't even Jack it up the hardest part was getting the hoses off the canister thank you for your video was alot of help

[@knuckelhead225]

2006 colorado z71 extended cab I5

[@knuckelhead225]

part 214-2149

[@bencollinz]

I did without removing the spare as well, surprisingly easy

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Yes, the spare tire doesn't block the canister and solenoid in any way. The only reason I suggest dropping it is because it makes it a lot easier to slide yourself under the truck without needing to raise it at all. If you don't mind using a jack (AND STAND!) or you are slim enough that the tire doesn't get in your way, then there is no need to remove it.

[@chipsawdust5816]

Thanks for this video, all these years later it still helped me. I have a 2005 Colorado with this same code. Bought the H3 solenoid off Amazon (don't recall the price but it was cheap, and a Delco part). My truck has rust under there too. I just bought it not long ago and in doing this I found out I have no spare tire so that bit took less time! Although now I have to shop for a spare. You don't need them often, but when you do...

[@CoffeemanCC]

I ordered the parts you showed. I appreciate the time and energy you put into this video. Thanks again

[@BobbieNeutron]

Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was very well done! Good idea to test the wiring and computer before putting everything together! Safety glasses! Genius. I REALLY appreciate how you learned about the H3 replacement parts and were good enough to share that information! A big deal. I'm Robert. I have a 2009 GMC Canyon that threw this alarm in December and my mechanic is dragging his feet on it, so here I am! Your tutorial has given me the confidence to do the repair myself. You rock!

[@martingreen9411]

Let us know how you made out.

[@sprill8876]

Great video. Thanks a million. Looked at it several times. Followed your process and parts to fix PO449 on my 2010 Canyon. $35 total for OEM solenoid and harness shipped from ebay. One thing that you did not mention is that the bracket is held in place by the center piece of the bracket that is located on both the canister and solenoid side of bracket. It is slightly bent down to keep the solenoid in place. I used a screwdriver to pry the center piece up and and the bracket came of easily with a little tap of hammer even though it was heavily rusted. After reinstalling the bracket the center piece gets pushed down again. I also added a small stainless steel worm clamp to the hold the hose on tightly.

[@keithbohne3718]

I just got a 2011 and i cannot thank you enough! part to arrive tomorrow and will update once installed.

[@travisglessner2860]

Thank you for the video! Check engine light is off and this video could not of been better. I bought the part from autozone part number pv428. 30 bucks and truck is fixed.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Ok, there seems to be quite a bit of confusion over what the EVAP system is for and how it works, so I'll try to give a simplified explanation. In the "good old days" (the 70s and before) automotive fuel systems were simple. You had a fuel tank that you filled through a filler tube that connected to the outside of your car via the gas cap. Attached to the fuel tank, a fuel pump forced gasoline or diesel through a narrow hose with a filter somewhere along its length into a small "cup" in your carburetor. The amount of fuel in the cup was controlled by a small float in the cup that cut off the fuel feed when the cup was full and allowed it to flow again when the level dropped. Air rushing into your engine through the throat of the carburetor sucked the fuel from the cup into the engine cylinders through something called a venturi, which atomized the fuel as it mixed with the air. Even with the fuel cap on, the fuel system was vented to the outside air (usually near the filler cap) to equalize the pressure so that you didn't starve your carburetor as the volume of fuel in the tank dropped, or the fuel volume varied with ambient temperature. This allowed your engine to get the fuel it needed, but it also allowed polluting hydrocarbons which evaporate from gasoline to escape into the atmosphere even when your car wasn't running, which is a "very bad thing".™ As engine control went electronic beginning in the 70s and the carburetor was replaced by fuel injectors, California, and later other jurisdictions, mandated that these evaporating hydrocarbons be captured and stored until they could be burned in the engine. The modern EVAP system was born to accomplish this. Several components were added to the old-style fuel systems. First, a canister full of charcoal beads was placed at the end of the vent tube that equalized the pressure in the fuel system. This charcoal captures and holds the escaping hydrocarbons, which are drawn back into the fuel system and burned when the engine is running. Air is allowed to flow in and out through the canister but hydrocarbons are captured before they escape to the open air. For this to work properly, the charcoal canister must be the ONLY opening from the fuel system to the outside world (when the gas cap is on). To allow the engine computer to test this two valves were added, controlled by solenoids. The vent valve/solenoid, as the name suggests, is inserted in the vent line between the charcoal canister and the outside air. The purge valve is mounted on the intake manifold and a hose on the other end of the valve is attached to the fuel system. Normally, the vent valve is fully open and the purge valve allows a small vacuum to suck the hydrocarbons back out of the canister and into the engine cylinders. This also allows the vent to equalize the pressure in the fuel system by drawing or releasing air through the charcoal canister to the outside air. Every so often the ECU tests the integrity of the EVAP system seal by tightly closing the vent valve and temporarily fully opening the purge valve. With the purge valve open to the intake manifold a significant vacuum is formed in the fuel system. The purge valve is then closed tightly and a sensor measures how long the vacuum in the EVAP system is maintained. This test is usually done a few minutes after the vehicle is started from completely cold (i.e. first thing in the morning). When the test is complete the vent valve is opened again and the purge valve returns to normal too. If the vacuum is maintained for some predetermined period then the EVAP system passes the test. If however the vacuum doesn't hold then there is a leak in the EVAP system and the ECU will turn on the Check Engine Light and stores a DTC code. If the leak is bad then a P0455 code is stored. If the leak is not so bad but the seal is still not tight enough, then a P0442 code is stored instead. Needless to say, if either solenoid or valve is defective then the EVAP test cannot complete correctly and may give erroneous results. Likewise, a defective vacuum sensor can cause the ECU to think there is a leak when there isn't (or vice-versa). If all the valves, solenoids, and sensors are working properly then there really is a leak somewhere if a DTC code is stored in the ECU. Unfortunately, a DTC code in the ECU rarely points to a single component, but instead give you an idea of were to start looking. Hopefully this explanation sheds some light on what the various EVAP DTC codes could mean.

[@VandelayCostanza]

Huge help, Martin! Thank you so much for this tutorial. I'm a visual learner. Great advice on getting that hose off. It took a firm, but gentle effort.

[@jamesgoetz4625]

Thank you, My whole assembly fell out and I'm moving and I have a bad back and I needed my truck going otherwise I could end up on the street if I don't make this move in time but I just needed to know where that plug went and I'm hoping everything works but if not I can fix it based on You're extremely thorough job of explaining things. I didn't have a clue what this thing was The whole thing just came out and was dragging on the ground for about 2 mi. But your video really saved the day

[@danstone9743]

Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful.

[@delrio4627]

Clear, simple, and easy to follow. Man you made it so easy for me with this video! Thank you brother.

[@CaptainAssholay]

Been having issues related to this for the last few weeks and my check engine light finally popped up with that repair code. You just saved me a lot of time this weekend man, thanks!

[@alwolfjr]

Thanks for your idea. I did find an aftermarket complete valve/hose/harness for about $70 US. But found the valve and harness separately for $35 on Amazon. And they are both AC Delco parts.

[@FatbikeRepublicNL]

I just watched this and replaced the same thing on my wife's 2006 Hummer H3. Both part numbers were correct. The harness was available at my local ACDelco dealer. Both parts cost about $70 CAD total. The only difference was the large hose in your video (with the push button release) was different on the H3. Still managed to get it off though. I was expecting the 13mm bolt to be rusted solid . . . but it came out. Thanks again.

[@njrichg792]

Can you tell me how to get the hoses off the hummer, no magic white buttons and I can't even see them. Thanks!

[@buckhanan363]

Nice informative video. Was able to perform this task for $34 in parts and 45 minutes of time (mostly getting those tubes with the pressure release points off) after watching this video. Thanks.

[@gartholver6063]

Excellent video, Martin! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Decided to add your channel to my favorite mechanic's channels!

[@robmartin8747]

Thanks! This video was very helpful. I got it done in under an hour (including interruptions). The part I bought from Amazon included the bracket, hose and jumper wire so I was able to skip a couple of steps but the video simplified the process. Definitely don't forget the safety glasses. I should have worn safety goggles as some dirt got by the glasses.

[@airkraftinc]

I had the exact same problem. The OEM Chevy part was $146.00. I used your trick and ordered a 2007 Hummer part that was an exact replacement for $23.00. I didn't even need the adapter. So, you saved me $123.00. Its a simple fix. Thank you for the advice.

[@martingreen9411]

That's interesting. Are you saying your truck is a 2007 model? If so, that means that the harness was changed for the 2007 model year since my 2006 Colorado uses the old harness and I needed the adapter cable.

[@airkraftinc]

Yes, my truck is a 2007 and the 2007 Hummer part was the same plug. I used a real heat gun to get the vinyl tube off of the old solenoid. Heat worked for me. I didn't have to saw off and crush the plastic inside. Awesome tip ordering the Hummer part. It worked just as you said. A hundred and twenty three Thank you's!!

[@martingreen9411]

airkraftinc Thanks for the update. That means that if you have a 2005/2006 model you will need the adapter. Anything from 2007 onward and you should be able to do this repair without the adapter.

[@airkraftinc]

That seems to be correct. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not need the adapter. Thanks again for the advise.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

+airkraftinc Just want to comment for anyone reading airkraftinc's comment later on. I don't recommend using a heat gun to soften the hose since the temperatures they can reach are probably not safe around the fuel vapors that are released when the hose is disconnected. A hair dryer is probably fine, but real heat guns can get hot enough to set fire to wood or paper, so I wouldn't trust one around gasoline. Cheers.

[@paulbricklayer4491]

Thanks buddy for the info just did this job cost me 71$ every thing from the dealer great video

[@dinobravo8037]

All I can say is "those bastids". Thanks for this vid, so glad I stumbled upon it. Otherwise I would have summarily gone into Autozone and paid $156.00 for this part and another $30.00 for the adapter. Incidentally my own subsequent research which I will mostly credit you for uncovered an ACDelco part# 214-2149. It's on Amazon for $13.60 and appears to have the oval connector eliminating the need for an adapter altogether. Pic could be incorrect, but I'm going to order it and see what comes. One more thing, your suggestion for removing the hose worked like a charm, but to replace it on the new part I'm going to dip it in some boiled water for a few seconds. Thanks mate, I salute you.

[@TheCobraSaint]

Thank you so much for this step by step tutorial. I have the same truck with ironically enough the same mileage as yours, LOL! H3 hummer parts? who would have known? FY, the part you specified in this video is available in the US at O'Reilly's for $56.99 with the harness adapter. Autozone has the OEM part for the the Chevy Colorado for $34.99. Thank you again.

[@zefdin101]

Really, really great video. I picked the solenoid up on Amazon for $23 plus tax... What a difference!!The Hummer H2 works as well. The connector adapter is $8.99 plus tax on Amazon as well.I am sure in past 4-5 years price has come down from the time vid was shot.

[@KeithChinmisterluh73]

thanks for the vid. it was really helpful. I checked the connector first then bought AC Delco #214-2149 from Amazon and it worked. it's for the normal "oval" style connector with the small v-notch. i did not need the adapter harness that many speak of. i have a 2005 crew cab 3.5L Xtreme.

[@bepilc]

I took my Colorado in for a "recall"notification fron G.M. on TPS, and it was not the problem, they charged me about $75.00 to tell me it was the vaccum canister solenoid. I found the 2 items you mentioned for $19.00 and $9.00 respectfully. So it would have been cheaper to let autozone help by scanning. THANKS!

[@AndrewPross]

This video was spot on! I did not take my spare down but this was still easy to do following his directions!

[@razzledazzle4934]

I just had the same problem. I found your video very useful. After watchin I was able to fix the problem myself and save some money. So thank you for the video sir

[@shawnzandroid9480]

Awesome tutorial. Just finished my 08 Colorado, no problems thanks to you. You da man!

[@SerenoOunce]

As an alternative, use a ACDelco 214-1091 for early 2000's pickups. Shape is different but will slide in the bracket just the same and uses the same oval connector.. Only difference for the install is after cutting the old solenoid, DO NOT crack the pipe. The valve won't protrude as far so the hose will come up short. Add 3-4" of 5/8" ID hose as an extension and done. Valve is in the $15-30 range. A Delco 25950499 for a trailblazer will work as well. And put the bracket on a flat surface and wack it w/ a hammer. It will shock the rust build-up loose and make reassembly much easier

[@nathanparr7336]

H3 owners: This is the exact same procedure for our vehicles. Make sure you get the harness adapter too. Hardest part was getting the bolt off. The head had rusted right off. Ended up grinding the bolt off. I used a fan on high to blow any fumes that may be lingering while doing it. I found that heating the hose up with a torch really quickly made reinstalling it quick and painless.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Yeah, I had the same problem changing the EVAP valve on my Buick Allure (which is the exact same part as on the Colorado/Canyon/H3). The bolt holding the bracket up behind the rear fender was rusted solid and the head had disintegrated beyond the ability of a socket or wrench grab it. It took me nearly two hours with penetrating oil and a propane torch (being EXTREMELY careful around the gas filler tube and hoses) to get the bolt out with a Vice Grip. The way the valve is mounted on the bracket there is no way to get it off without removing the bracket first. Once it was out I liberally applied white spray grease to the new bolt before reinstalling the bracket with the new valve mounted on it.

[@njrichg792]

2006 H3 owner here; problem I am having is the two hoses that this gentleman easily removes by pressing a white button do not have a simple white button to press in. Meanwhile, I got the bolt off with no problem which allows me to move the box a little bit, but no where near what this gentleman did so as I sit here, I can't even see the connectors. I'm on the ground working on my (bad) back getting nowhere. Please if anyone can tell me how to disconnect the two hoses on a hummer let me know. Thanks!

[@Coco-gs1ih]

Very helpful. It is worth adding that you can now get a vent/solenoid at AutoZone. Ask for part PV485 and they will hand you an exact replica that fits exactly. It's a $24 part. Switch the hose as described in this video because that hose doesn't come with the part. If AutoZone looks up the Colorado they will find another part that is priced at $100. It comes with the $75 accessory hose if you're into wasting money.

[@harrymeans6176]

Both parts, light tester and a can of rust converter, all on Amazon for just over 50$.. Great video! Thanks lots!!!

[@chrismoore1794]

Thank you for this video- I followed the example and it was pretty easy to complete the change. Great, easy to understand video!

[@mlbechard5853]

I want to say THANK YOU i just ordered the parts to do my Colorado

[@aaronleonard3]

awesome video, repair made easy for less than $50 following these instructions to fix P0449 service check engine code. My valve had multiple cracks all over it, so It definitely was bad

[@john1c1]

Saved me a pile of money and it was right on. Thanks no more check engine light.

[@billweldon9563]

Excellent video. I had the same problem on my 2007 Colorado. Ordered my parts on eBay for total of $35.

[@RK2008MD]

Hi Martin man was I please went I saw your video and tks a million GM and other garage want 550.00 to change mine and went I saw you video .I went to ebay and got one with connector adaptor ,hose already in place and for the only sum of 112.00 .peoples like you make us happy .At the cost of today living man I wish I could pay you a beer lollll.Tks again now they come all in one peace

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Glad the video was helpful to you. From your description it seems you bought the Canyon/Colorado part, not the Hummer one. As you found out that version is quite a lot more expensive, even from an Internet vendor. There are Web vendors selling the Hummer version and the adapter harness for less than $40 USD combined and if you follow my instructions that part will work just as well as the Canyon/Colorado one.

[@CM-ux9qq]

Thanks to guys like you I been fixing things myself. Thank you, perfect demonstration. 2004 Colorado

[@Austin-bp8sr]

Do you have a Crew Cab? Just wondering if the location is the same on a Crew Cab? I have an 04 thought I read the tank may need to be dropped on this truck if it is a CC. Thanks

[@CM-ux9qq]

@@Austin-bp8sr Yes, I had a crew cab Z71. In fact I just sold it this past weekend. Just get underneath and the cannister is right there. Only thing I found is the parts store said they didn't have the hummer replacement part so I had to buy the whole thing. Was super easy to do. Good luck

[@Austin-bp8sr]

@@CM-ux9qq Thank you very much. I bought my 04 new and it is still in good shape. Only 125,000 on it. I would like to get a new one but waiting until the 'Chips' come in so the prices come down. Thanks again.

[@lancewilson59]

Thanks to your work and research, I was able to save over $80 dollars. Also your video was very helpful.

[@dominicpepin6892]

Thanks a lot for this video. we had the same problem on my father's 2010 canyon, and with your explanations it was easy to test, and repair this! thanks again!!!

[@jedjordan9357]

Very helpful and save me a lot of money , Live in Texas cost me about 50 bucks thank you

[@PhoenixRevealed]

@mingoyai... actually a defective solenoid probably wouldn't even be noticed without the engine code. This is an emissions control defect, not a performance one. I've seen some state that your fuel economy is slightly affected by a bad solenoid, but if so the effect is very small. Since doing this repair on my truck I have seen both the solenoid and wiring adapter available online as a set for under $40 so if you have the time it is probably worth doing. If you had to pay the full $200+ or $400 for dealer installation I would say ignore it because you won't notice any performance problems, but for $40 you might as well repair it, especially if you live somewhere like I do where you have to pass an emissions test every two years to renew your license sticker. Any emissions system error codes is an instant fail.

[@Guitarsnspraycans]

I bought a scanner with live data off wish for like 12 bucks, took a month but it works great and it connects to my phone via bluetooth

[@arcranda]

NAPA P/N 2-282694 worked for my 3.7L 2007 Chevy Colorado's P0449, even though the NAPA website says not compatible. It *includes* the wiring harness adapter and cost $29.99 USD.

[@opera93]

arcranda interesting I have 07 Canyon 4 CYL, ETC..::

[@robertcampos4204]

What were the symptoms of this issue on your Colorado? Did you had engine misfiring? Rough idle & trouble driving accelerating? I just recently changed my spark plugs on my 2010 GMC Canyon 3.7l 5Cy and it ran really good for a week then one morning I started it up and then began engine chopping, bad vibration and misfiring, Exhaust on the back chopping, I don't have a check engine light or any what so ever, but those currently it's doing those bad symptoms, I just want to see something very similar so can go ahead and fix it.

[@awallaustin]

Very clear video! Thanks so much. Not much experience with auto repair on my part so your video definitely came in handy.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

UPDATE: After investigating a P0455 EVAP system error (gross leak) I have discovered that the 2005 Buick Allure (Lacrosse in USA) which I inherited from my father uses the exact same vent solenoid as the Colorado/Canyon. The location is very different on the Allure than on the Colorado, being tucked up high under the fender behind the gas filler tube above and behind the rear drivers-side wheel. Also, unlike the Colorado/Canyon, the valve is not mounted on or near the charcoal canister. I have seen videos on KZbin that suggest that pretty much all GM passenger vehicles and light trucks use this same part. This makes sense because vent solenoids are very simple devices which would be applicable to a wide range of vehicle models. Note that, like my 2006 Colorado, the Allure has the oval connector, and requires the harness adapter if the new upgraded part suggested for the Colorado/Canyon is used. To clarify, the P0449 error says that the ECU tried to test the vent solenoid but it was either shorted, open-circuit, disconnected, or there was a wiring fault. The P0455 error tells you that the ECU detected the solenoid and it measured ok electrically, but may be stuck open. P0455 may also indicate a serious leak somewhere else in the EVAP system, so it may not be caused by the vent solenoid at all.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

+Martin Green UPDATE: Ok, four days after replacing the vent solenoid on my 2005 Buick Allure (Lacrosse) I can confirm that it was the cause of the P0455 Gross EVAP leak codes I was seeing. Since this is exactly the same part used on the Colorado/Canyon it is certainly a possible source of the same code on these small trucks. This time I disassembled the defective vent solenoid to see what was going on. Measuring the resistance across the terminals I got a complete open circuit on the bad one from my Colorado, but this time the defective one measured about 17,000 ohms. Since a new solenoid reads just about 20 ohms the high resistance is a pretty good indication that something is wrong with the part. I would have expected a reading that high to cause a P0449 code on the Buick too, but it seems that the ECU is not that sensitive. If the resistance across the solenoid is not in the millions of ohms the ECU appears to think the solenoid is electrically Ok. I verified a bad solenoid before buying the non-returnable part not only by testing the resistance, but also by using a 6" one-handed woodworking clamp to pinch off the hose just before it entered the solenoid. I then drove around like that for a couple of hours. With the bad solenoid I was usually getting a P0455 code within 5-10 minutes after starting the car, but after several hours with the clamp on, which simulated a working valve, there was no code. Removing the clamp and replacing the vent solenoid has completely fixed the problem. As I said I was curious about what was inside the bad part so I disassembled it before throwing it away. The large round cylinder is just a chamber for an open-cell foam air filter, most likely to keep bugs and large debris from getting into the EVAP system from outside. The thin tube running up the side of the large cylinder is the solenoid which slides the spring-loaded valve up and down. The hose coming from the charcoal canister enters the solenoid/valve body from the side, and if the valve is open, it passes through the other side of the valve body into the center of the large cylinder, then down the middle to the bottom where is spreads out and comes back up through the foam filter which is wrapped around the outside of the middle air tube. Once through the filter the air is released to the outside through large gaps around the cap. The air also flows in the other direction back into the EVAP system at other times depending on what the ECU is doing. When the solenoid if functioning properly, the valve closes off the hose to the charcoal canister from the body of the vent solenoid, allowing the ECU to create a vacuum in the EVAP system and verify that it doesn't leak away too quickly. One other useful hint regarding a P0455 error and a bad vent solenoid. Unlike the P0449 test which is performed by the ECU under very specific and hard to set up conditions, the P0455 error is often caused by a loose or missing gas cap, so the ECU tests for P0455 frequently, updating the ODB2 code as needed. This means that you probably don't need to use a code reader to clear the P0455 code after you replace the vent solenoid, since as soon as the ECU thinks you have put the gas cap back on securely it will clear the code for you. The benefit of this is that you don't need to perform a complicated "drive cycle" one or more times to get all the I/M systems to be ready for emissions testing. The EVAP system is especially difficult to get to a ready state, so not having to use the reader to reset the code is very beneficial. On the Colorado it took several weeks before the EVAP system reached a ready state. Luckily where I live the emissions testing allows a single I/M system to be non-ready and you can still pass, but it would have been nice to be green on every system. Unfortunately I didn't learn that you don't need to reset the code manually after a P0445 until after I had already cleared it on the Buick, so after four days I am still waiting for my EVAP system to go green. So to summarize, if you are fixing a P0449 error you will probably need to clear the code manually after the repair, but if you are repairing a P0455 code then not only can you let the ECU clear the code for you, but you probably should.

[@jaybo107]

I tried my luck at the junk yard found a 70,000 mile 07 colorado. $25 for charcoal canister with the hoses.

[@PeterJames-ux7lv]

Thanks for the info was a big help,amazon had both parts total cost was a little over 30 dollars

[@MyDigitalParadise]

Very useful to see the whole process visually thank you very much

[@DomLucarelli45]

Just did my Impala, same part. Very helpful, thanks.

[@frankmeister1743]

Did It Help With Gas Mileage? My truck is Using A lot Of Gas

[@gary-glendaseybert983]

Very good diagnostic video ! Well done sir . Thank you .

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Happy it was helpful. :-D

[@screemer122]

thanks Martin guys like you help out a lot its good just to get a eye on things ..great video showed everything and you enplaned it excellent

[@Lukasjakson]

I’ve changed this part and purge valve. My code reader doesn’t work on my Colorado. It works on other cars. If I can’t clear the codes, will engine light go off after driving a while? Or do you have to clear them? If so, will unplugging battery do the trick?

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Yes, it should go off after a while, but it could take weeks. The EVAP system is unique in that the test can only be run if very specific conditions are true. The engine must be stone cold, it must idle for some time before the test, and there are other obscure conditions that mean that the ECU often won't retest the EVAP system for days or even weeks after you fix the leak. Some people do an ECU reset after repairs to pass government smog testing to renew the plates, but it's not unusual for the EVAP system to be in an unknown state for a long time after this. Where I live they recently killed the smog test program, but when they were testing here you were allowed one "not ready" system report and still pass. I've had the EVAP system take as long as 3 weeks before my code reader showed it as green.

[@jimwortham3112]

I found this part with the harness on Rock Auto, for $15.91. Great video btw ,Thanks!

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Wow, great price. I think that's the cheapest anyone has reported by quite a bit.

[@Asmotix]

Thanks for making this video.. very informative.. I haven't run into this issue.. but I love my Colorado and if the issue ever comes up... now i'll know how to fix it :)

[@KenyonPayne]

Got an 06 with the p0449, there is also a loud clicking coming from the area where this canister is, is that the cause?

[@alanjackson4397]

Excellent information very good video presentation thank you

[@TreeClimbersSWMI]

I drive a 3.7 2009 Colorado , you think it would work the same ? I have the p0449 code reading on the check engine. I'm about to try it out..

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Can't say for certain, but the first generation Colorado ran from 2003-2012, so I suspect your 2009 will be basically the same.

[@fishsticks88]

Any luck on the 09 .. i have a 3.7l 09 canyon

[@mlbechard5853]

awesome video , Now i can fix mine . New to all this Thanks for your help .

[@rodolfopompa3451]

Eres un chingon muy buena explicación a detalle , you are better,the explanation is complete

[@dustinm5212]

Online you can buy a Dorman kit with the hose, wiring harness and bracket for $90 ftom Parts Geek. Highly recomend, its nice having a new bracket, no headaches dealing with rusty brackets..

[@josephpayne9655]

Hey thanks for the insightful info. Do you think that perhaps some PB Blaster or WD 40 would help make the install of the bracket into the solenoid easier?

[@johnandrews7922]

Thanks so much ! Very much appreciated from Port Moody BC

[@dustinschings7042]

Thanks Martin!! This may be helpful to others if you want to pin this comment. These parts are on Amazon Prime for about $30 total as of 6/16/2021. Just search for the items below. GM Genuine Parts 214-2324 Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid - $18.09 19257603 Adapter Evap Canister Vapor Vent Valve Emissions Evaporative Solenoid Wire Harness - $12.75

[@rfsnglo314]

I got a 22 ohm resistor at Radio Shack (5 pack for $2.49), inserted the leads into the harness to simulate the solenoid, as an alternative to your pins and a 5-50v test light.

[@martingreen9411]

rfsnglo314 Yup, that would work too. Nice thing about that method is that the leads are small enough that you won't damage the connector by pushing them in like you would if you don't follow my instructions about not pushing test probes into the opening. Was your solenoid bad?

[@rfsnglo314]

Martin Green I'll know more when the replacement solenoid arrives and I install it.

[@sellwithnorman]

Thanks this video saved me over $100

[@rogeruntel9369]

Thanks for the very helpfull video. My Colorado is a 2007 with the same problem (like a whole lot of other colorado/canyon owners). Do you know what year GM changed the the shape of the harness connector from oval to square ? I shure wish I'd know before doing the fix. Or is it just because it's a Hummer part ? Thanks

[@PhoenixRevealed]

@roger untel... I'm not sure but I think it was sometime around 2010 or possibly as late as 2012. It has nothing to do with it being a Hummer part, if you buy the expensive one listed on their computer for your GMC/Chevy truck the dealer will still tell you that you require the adapter unless you have a late model truck. I am just guessing but I suspect GM decided that since the actual solenoid on the Hummer and Chevy/GMC trucks was identical except for the connector, it made sense to convert them all to the same connector to reduce manufacturing/inventory costs, and then chose the one used on the Hummer for all of them. I do know for sure that even if you buy the expensive solenoid listed on your dealer's computer which includes that rubber hose you will STILL need the adapter because the original part has been deleted and replaced with the one with the new connector. My bet is that unless you have at least a 2010 truck then you will need the adapter. Best bet is to ask a dealer to look up the part for you as is you were going to buy the expensive one. If they tell you that you need the adapter too then you will need it for the Hummer version too. If they say your truck is new enough to already use the newer connector then you won't need the adapter to install the Hummer solenoid either. I should mention that I have seen a few online vendors selling the solenoid with the OLD style connector so you won't need the adapter if you have an older truck, but this makes me wonder how long the part has been sitting on their shelf. I read somewhere that GM claimed to have ruggedized the part a bit in addition to the connector change, so if it was me I would shy away from buying one of the older parts and possibly having to repeat the repair in a few years.

[@rogeruntel9369]

Martin Green Thanks again Martin, I will most certanly need the connector for my truck being a 2007.

[@MarloSoBalJr]

1A Auto has the whole assembly for ~$116 -- which is basically chump change if you let a dealer mechanic do you for $450 worth of labor.

[@Chasindinks]

Hey Martin. I replaced the vent solenoid without testing prior and it didn’t clear my code. I checked the power I have 12v on the orange side after I find a good ground with my volt meter. I also tried the fuse light test like here in your video. And it did not clear my code and when I cleared it the code came right back on. So does this look like a faulty bcm?

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Hey Chris... that'll l'arn ya. :-) That is precisely why I suggested testing before assuming the vent solenoid is bad. Anyway, all is not necessarily lost. You say you have 12V on one side of the solenoid, which suggests to me that the wiring to the ECM is broken. You didn't say what year your truck is, but normal wiring for these trucks is for the orange wire to be permanently hot (12V) and the white wire to go directly to the ECM. If you don't have 12V the first check is the solenoid fuse, but since your 12V is present the problem must be either the ECM, or the white wire between the solenoid and the ECM. The happy news is that ECMs rarely fail. As safety-critical components they are designed and tested far beyond standards for consumer-grade electronics. I'd wager it's a broken wire or defective connector. I found a complete set of wiring diagrams for these trucks online a while back, and Google searches find a lot of wiring links, but you only really need to know where the white wire enters the ECM. This link on 355Nation about fixing a solenoid wiring problem relates to missing 12V, but it includes a small EVAP solenoid wiring diagram and should give you what you need... www.355nation.net/forum/engines-performance-tech-questions/165586-another-p0449-thread-time-wiring-problem.html If you find you need more wiring details than that link provides, PM me and I'll email you the wiring PDFs I have. Note to other readers... this is NOT an invitation for requests for these diagrams. I found them myself and you should be able to as well. Any request from other viewers will be ignored.

[@pentakillful]

I first checked the fuse and it was good, then swapped out the solenoid and still am throwing the p0449. The solenoid I got did not come with a new harness. Think that could be why im throwing the code still?

[@julianoliva2850]

Recently I bought a 2011 chevy Colorado wt and im trying to make a lot of upgrades.. I done a hot vapor wash all the motor and chassis... and it was clean... I'm at Bakersfield... i see that your truck have a lot of corrosion what state are you at?

[@PhoenixRevealed]

I'm in Southern Ontario near Toronto. They still use salt on some roads here in winter.

[@julianoliva2850]

@@PhoenixRevealed ooh now I get it!... just be careful ok. Blessings!

[@bostonjake8613]

EXCELENT VIDEO!!!! Best explanation I've ever scene!!! Thank You. You just saved me a ton on Money.

[@DRLAPPER]

You should blow out the canister through the gas tank port. If there's dirt it will come out the vent port.

[@hooknbook911]

DT B i need to try that already replaced the vent solenoid and gas cap and still have the pesky light smh..

[@spitmk3]

Great detailed video!

[@brianpalmer4992]

Does it matter if you buy a 1 port or a 2 port? Have seen comments saying you can use either one

[@PhoenixRevealed]

I've only seen the one kind. If you stick with the supplied part numbers you should be fine.

[@hey.dominic1369]

Thank you so much for this video.... helped me with my own truck

[@corystevens4583]

Great video, thanks for thoroughly going through the whole process. I was able to find the solenoid/purge valve on Amazon for ~$15 here in the States

[@onemind369]

Amazing video bro thank you

[@christopherpotts8754]

If there is rust inside the solenoid. What is my problem? A filler neck? Replaced the solenoid still have engine light after deleting it.

[@mingoyai]

thanks for the info but i got a question, will this error po449 code have anything to do with performance on the engine.

[@MarloSoBalJr]

Not really. Its whenever gas vapors are escaping which would affect your fuel mileage but its won't destroy your engine

[@SamtheHiker]

What was the symptoms other than the code?

[@Ccam1190]

Is this the same part for a 2012 Colorado 3.7L? I am beating my head on the desk with this stupid P0442 code. I am on my 3rd gas cap and I've also replaced the valve up on the front left of the motor

[@awatton5719]

Absolutely the most informative clear video I’ve seen about this. I have a 05 Colorado and po455 code pops up soon after a visual above the odometer reads fuel cap. What happens is when engine still cold and coming to a stop the rpm’s will dip momentarily causing the engine light to come on. So, looked up code and replace both gas cap and solenoid purge valve on side of engine being least expensive parts. It seemed to fix the issue, but p0455 and fuel cap again popped up. I’m gonna guess the next thing will be the vapor canister solonoid which you show in this video is the culprit. If you know of it being something else please let know. Btw, the cheaper alternative to the oem that is for a hummer is indeed a huge savings and same solenoid and I buy from RockAuto.com So many parts are much cheaper than old brick and motar stores.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

Thanks for the kind words. I've had multiple vehicles throw P0455 codes and despite the gas cap being the most common recommended fix for this, it has NEVER been a gas cap problem. On one vehicle it was a rusted EVAP line and on another it was this exact solenoid valve.