Photo Engraving on Mirrors Summary

[@lylevicki9746]

Hey Steve! Looking good. I buy my mirrors from IKEA. Get a pack of 6 12” sq. Super easy to engrave.

[@merrillalbury8214]

Saved all 3 videos. Great information.

[@dannogriggs4603]

The gray backing with copper is an electroplating process making it thicker and more durable.

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

The biggest problem with mirrors is the many different coatings they use. You have to stick to the same manufacturer to have consistent results, *but* even if you do, I found that different batches seem to engrave differently! So unless you buy in bulk by the case, like you said, it's hit and miss....

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

I agree photos are a pain in the rear to try and get on a mirror or anything for me (refer back to name lol)! Sticking with nice SVG files is less frustrating, or files that are already done and ready for lasering ;) Do you have a link for the cloud looking mirror as I can't seem to find it.

[@HoboWithWood]

Sorry. I do not have a link for the cloud mirror. I do not see it on their website. But I've been able to purchase this mirror in my local Dollar Tree for the last year.

[@danielshuflin9095]

Do you go through the same process with every material you use?

[@HoboWithWood]

If you are talking about testing for the best settings, yes. Sometimes, I find myself having to test a new batch of a previously used material. I've only got two mirrors I use. These small ones and larger 12x12 from Lowe's.

[@charleshouseknecht6970]

Some mirrors have a plastic film on the coating, to protect it.

[@thomasdukes7698]

I never defocused with my diode. I do so on my CO2. Even at the minimum power to fire it can be too much when engraving.

[@thomasdukes7698]

Diodes, hands down are better than CO2 for engraving

[@pblais404]

you know what... while you were talking again about "sub-focusing" and why did it work. You never showed in all 3 videos the actual burning. When you put the mirror in the laser, do you put it mirror up or mirror down. If it's mirror down, then it makes sense why sub-focusing works. The laser beam has to go through the glass of the laser and hit the the back side of the mirror. And,, if the mirror is 1 mm thick that would explain your 1 mm down sub-focusing.. wouldn't it?

[@HoboWithWood]

I load the mirror face down. You don't want the reflective mirror bouncing the laser back at itself. And since the coating on the mirror is on the back of the mirror, I Prefocus to try and achieve the highest resolution of the photograph. I am not tring to prduce an image on the actual glass, but remove enough of the mirror backing to produce the image. ALL of this is irrelevan if you are simply engraving vector file. Photos on mirrors is a real skill and takes lots and lots and lots of practice. And most importantly good mirrors.