Picture Framing Basics

A tour of my woodworking shop while I create custom molding and frame a couple of art prints. Tips and tricks to make quality frames in your shop. You don't need anything more sophisticated than a router table and a table saw...but I use all my toys!

[@skampp]

Mr. Farris, this is a great video. Thanks for taking the time to make and post it.

[@gregscarcella519]

Amazing beautiful wood work. AND that is a great deal of work for a custom picture frame. I don't have the tools or patience for this level of multiple steps.

[@WoodpeckersLLC]

Great job, Jeff! Very informative and thanks for showing off all your cool old tools. The frames turned out beautiful.

[@johnridgeway6718]

Thank you for all the details. Even the acid free tape was a bonus.

[@BigmoRivera]

Great Job Nicely Done 🔨📏📐📝👍🏽Awesome Power Tools You Got Keep Up The Good Work See You On Next Video Jett!!

[@Max-vw2qy]

Thanks. 'Loved the math class.

[@arthurohara4874]

Very talented man!!!! Nice job sir!!

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Thank you, Arthur!

[@mikevincent2811]

I always loved the RAS

[@kb0rvo]

Very informative and nicely done. Elden

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@WCUMBFAN]

Loved watching this beautiful woodworking! One respectful suggestion on the mounting of prints from a hobbyist woodworker married to a professional picture framer. That paper is going to move with changes in temperature and humidity. Securing on all four sides prevents that natural movement of the paper and likely will lead to rippling. Even though that “package” is tightly compressed in the frame, that paper is going to figure out a way to move! Best way to mount any print like that is with 2 small “hinges” along the top edge of the print. The print then freely hangs in the space and is able to expand and contract as needed, all undetectable to the human eye. Perfectly natural and expected in picture framing. For those times when “it absolutely has to be perfectly flat and stay that way,” the print can be dry mounted to a substrate. But that’s for another day. Thanks for another fabulous peek into the shop of an expert woodworker!

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Thanks, Jim. You think I should take it apart and remove the tape from three sides?

[@WCUMBFAN]

As much of a pain as that might be, I would do it, Jeff. Twenty-some years ago, I did the same thing (although not with as beautiful wood frames), and I got the ripple. Best to carefully remove now and just attach with 2 pieces about 1” wide at the top of each print, about an inch or two in from the sides. The prints will love you for it! And it should be MUCH easier getting those glazer points back in second time around!

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Thanks, Jim, I may even turn it into a short video!

[@WCUMBFAN]

I’ll look forward to that! Let me know if we can send you any supplies to make it work.

[@SharpToolsUSA]

To take it to a professional level, what kind of tape should I be using?

[@petervanvleet8215]

Where did you get your Nobex framing cord clamp? I don't see them available anywhere in the US...

[@cmstillwell6738]

I’ve never seen the math like that to figure outside dimensions for a frame. Nice!

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Glad you found it helpful...I almost edited it out for being too boring.

[@jddeefo1022]

Nice Shop, where can I purchase the rope style clamp?

[@scheuzger]

Nicely done, Jeff. What was the name of the finish you used again? I didn't quite catch it. Also the polishing system? I've never buffed wood before - that looked like it came out really well.

[@SharpToolsUSA]

The finish Osmo Polyx Oil. The buffing system is the Beall Buffing System...three steps, tripoli, white diamond and carnauba wax.

[@markmoulin41]

So..... if one does not have all this specialized equipment, how can we use a miter saw, router table, clamps and glue to make a frame?

[@MrPatdeeee]

Great job Jeff; only not so great sound. Did your lavaliere go dead in the charge that causes echoes? But again, the video was awesome kind Sir.

[@stevehopkins5907]

A question about your antique table saw. I have an old (1987?) Craftsman table saw that I bought new. I’ve done a little “refreshing” of it lately but am having trouble getting the rip fence perpendicular to the table top. If I get it perpendicular then the rail is not parallel with the table top. Do you have any suggestions? Is there some internal adjustment I can make? Any suggestions for an after-market fence?

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Steve, start by verifying that the blade is parallel to the table. Measure from the miter slot to the blade at the front and rear of the blade. If there's a difference you'll have to adjust the trunnion until it is parallel. I believe on your saw you'll find the trunnion is mounted to the underside of the table in 4 points. The holes in the trunnion brackets are slightly over-sized to allow alignment. Once you have the blade and table top aligned, align the rip fence to the table top. If the rail itself is not perpendicular to the table isn't relevant. As far as an aftermarket fence, I would watch the used market for a vintage (80s - 90s) Biesemeyer.

[@jimjohnson4675]

Let's hear about that curved brush! I would love one of those

[@SharpToolsUSA]

jebbbrush.com/woodworker-brushes/ The company used to be Opie Brushes in Kansas City. Bought out by a bigger outfit, but kept the woodworkers brushes. Their main line is brushes for flour mills.

[@rjsenn4142]

Enjoyed the project and shop tour! I enjoy the old machines as well. Are you on owwm?

[@SharpToolsUSA]

Yes, I follow OWWM daily...and the DeWalt forum, too.

[@rjsenn4142]

@@SharpToolsUSA nice! I have 3 vintage Delta tools and 1 Powermatic. Lots of great help from OWWM!

[@toneloc415]

what router bits do you recommend?

[@SharpToolsUSA]

In general? I like Whiteside. If you're looking for specifics for picture frame molding, I'm afraid that is quite subjective. On this pair I just used a simple, small Roman Ogee.

[@Barry2Lyn7donbarry2]

Metric is so much easier…