Pinball Pimp Cabinet Stencils - How to Install Pinball Stencils

The quickest and easiest method to apply Pinball Pimp Cabinet Stencils made from paint mask vinyl to the side of your pinball cabinet.

[@-Gramps]

Thanks for the comprehensive demonstration. Very helpful to a noob like me that wants to restore an older pin.

[@PinballPimp]

I will try and make a PAINT video later this fall when my new shop is up and running.

[@blupeterb254b9]

Perfect explanation - thank you!

[@KentDiego]

It looked like you had a splatter pattern similar to factory original. Would really like to see a painting guide as applying the stencil is the easy part.

[@PinballPimp]

There’s a few different techniques to apply the splatter. I use an airbrush with a special tip I created to get the splatter pattern correct. It still takes a lot of talent in the correct air pressure etc. You can also use a wire brush and spritz paint off of it onto the cabinet. I suggest you practice on some posterboard before you try the actual cabinet. Once again I have an airbrush with a special tip which most people wouldn’t have in their arsenal

[@fixeverything4u]

Should you clear coat after the first stencil color so that the paint doesn't lift up when you peel away the stencil for the second color?

[@KentDiego]

@@fixeverything4uI did not use clear on my machine but am thinking you would wait until all the base color is on and remove stencil before applying clear to keep it all smooth and even.

[@Seemsayin]

Application is THE most important part of the process. The stencil is actually a large decal, with the insides knocked out. Create a hinge at the edge, to his right. Once the stencil has been positioned, tape along that right-hand edge, and let your masking tape overlap to the adjoining side of the cabinet, as well as over the top of the stencil's right edge. Once your tape has good adhesion to the cabinet and the stencil, lift the other end of the stencil, like you would a page from a book, and swing it to the opposite side. Now that the liner is facing you, peel it carefully from where it's hinged (tape is underneath, where you applied it). Once you've peeled the liner about half (or less) of the total length, swing the stencil (with semi-loose liner in tow) back to the left side, holding it taught and away from the cabinet. Hold that end of the stencil (and the loose section of liner) with your left hand, holding it taught. With the squeegie in your right hand, burnish the stencil down evenly, starting at the hinged end, going from right to left. Once you've reached the halfway point (or less), continue peeling the liner as you work your way to the end (keeping the stencil from touching the cabinet). After you've applied your stencil, re-burnish it from all angles BEFORE you remove the application tape. When you're removing the application tape, be sure to hold the edge of the tape with your hand resting on the surface. At that sharp angle, you can be confident that your stencil will not lift from it's stuck position. Once the tape has been removed, look the stencil over (especially at the edges) for abnormalities like cracks or week bonds. Don't worry about bubbles. The ONLY thing that really matters is good EDGE adhesion. With a big graphic like that, you may want to employ the help of another person to hold the loose stencil end, to keep it off the cabinet, and from accidently touching the cabinet before it's been burnished. NEVER attempt to adhere a large graphic without some type of hinge. The hinge ensures that your stencil will stay in place, and in perfect registration with the other colors. The LAST thing you want is to be buying additional stencils. The process is actually easier than it sounds. I've been in the stencil business a long time. There is nothing sweeter than peeling it off, and marveling at a perfect paint job. Paint mask is a beautiful thing, especially on the sides of your pinball machine. There's nothing like it. Hope this helps.

[@gregyourspinedoctor]

I'd love to see the painting process.

[@stephenmcdevitt8836]

I just bought a cyclone stencil from you. Super excited. Not sure what type of paint I should use. Suggestions??

[@TheHammer610]

I am completely new at cabinet restoration. Only experience is apply vinyl decals. Do you have a recommended source for cabinet prep - all the way from stripping the paint, sanding, priming and applying the 'background' color? How do you know what background color to use? How did you do the 'speckles'? I saw the 'X's in the first stencil, but not how you marked the cabinet with an 'X' for the second stencil. Are you using spray cans for the paint? Do you recommend a brand or brands? I have been reading through the Pinside discussion, but it is so full of comments that it is almost unreadable.

[@alphacat9302]

I don't have answers, but my guess is maybe he left the first stencil on to keep the X, then removed both? Don't know. I'm not sure how I'm even going to get the pinball cabinet gutted and on its side without breaking it, I'm so new to this

[@KingBing8]

When did you paint the black. I saw you peel the backing off and then at about the 8:02 mark the black appears?

[@CaptAnarchy]

What is your recommendation on clear coat after stenciling ?

[@robertdavis5589]

I see in the background Power Play. I recently came across an original owners Power Play and I had to buy it

[@p51sleeper95]

Jeff, waiting times for removing after paint?Waiting time before applying the 2nd stencil after 1st color painting?? Can you please discuss the painting process and times you suggest? I learned the hard way DON"T WAIT TOO LONG OR YOU MAKE A TOTAL MESS AND NEED TO START ALL OVER AGAIN!

[@PinballPimp]

All of this info is on my PDF which can be downloaded from my website. I suggest peeling off the stencils within 5 minutes after painting if using the quick dry. You can wait longer for oil based paints since it takes longer to dry. You DO NOT want to let the paint dry as when peeling, paint may tear along edges of the stencil. I find Rustoleum spray in the Original White Can works best and gives you a superior stencil peel. Most Krylon and Rustoleum 2X paints need to be peeled as soon as they are painted since this paint dries much quicker.