QUADRASTEER! GM Parasitic Battery Drain from the FACTORY? (Part 2)

Let's install the used eBay HVAC module and see if it goes to sleep properly.
But the GMC Quadrasteer decides to throw a curve ball, and this time the parasitic drain is up to almost HALF AN AMP!! What CHANGED?
So this truck has MULTIPLE parasitic drains, and some of them are apparently INTERMITTENT!
We have to follow the data and continue the diagnosis until ALL of the parasitic drains are resolved.
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Enjoy!
Ivan

[@user-vd4kj3gs4s]

It has been 6 weeks and everything is great. I might ask Ivan to put the other options on ignition switch to not confuse the the heater door actuators. Thank you so much Ivan, Also, I might have Ivan replace the rear audio since he is the best of the best. He figured our stuff GM could not do. The truck is perfect. This truck is a GMC killer with the supercharger. I hope Ivan enjoyed driving it. Ivan, please show a video of you driving it. I told you to drive the crap out of it. See you soon.

[@dougkubash8673]

Great looking truck and sounds bad-ass!! I would really like to see Ivan's road test video! lol!

[@ronfrance4041]

These videos are invaluable. I consider myself to almost at the peak of AC voltage equipment troubleshooting and I say almost because working for a power company there are just some types of equipment my job title doesn’t get to work on. And it’s a great feeling to watch such an educational video and learn the the automotive DC voltage side of things. I wish there were more guys like you not only in automotive electrical but mechanical too. Example: my fathers work truck started running rough two weeks ago. I told him I really don’t have the time to work on it now and neither did he. So he brought it to a shop where they told him he needed a new engine due to zero compression on cylinder 3. He asked why it had zero compression, what did you find? They said the compression test was the extent of their diagnostic abilities 🤣🤣🤣 and he said BS! He told them he’s not replacing an engine 6.0 LQ4 trusty gm motor for zero compression when it’s probably a valve issue. So we got it back home popped off the valve cover and sure enough a broken exhaust valve spring. No valve piston contact visible with the bore scope, threw in a new valve spring without removing the head and it fired up and ran great. It’s too bad these shops don’t care like you do

[@thomasbailey8306]

That cell phone charger should be on Keyed Power. That way when He shuts the Key off the Charger on Console goes off. He wouldn't be using it anyhow not in the truck..Just a suggestion. Great find..

[@scottfeaver5885]

There is a feature on some GM HVAC controllers for "afterblow", blows the fan for a minute after a couple hours of sitting to dry it off to prevent mold. Maybe not enabled on this truck, but perhaps the software keeps the module awake for at least that long because of this feature.

[@moo3993]

So that's what afterblow is?! I never knew that! I saw it as an option to program into the HVAC modules when I'd replace them. You can turn it off using the thinktool or launch scanners. Curious if that would make the module go-to sleep sooner

[@Jpilgrim30]

@@moo3993not sure. I might give it a try next week on one at the shop to see but it’s really a non issue as it’ll go to sleep soon enough.

[@moo3993]

@@Jpilgrim30 as long as the module isn't staying up for multiple days at a time, I think four and a half hours at 0.040 mah is going to be negligible on current draw. Now if it does that for days on end... Different story lol. If you end up doing that and remember, let me know! Next time I get one I'm going to check it out. As cool as it is to turn on features that weren't present originally, I've learned I get myself into more trouble sometimes lol. Especially VW coding. Now Toyota coding, that's a treat. They make it idiot proof lol. GM coding you can hang yourself sometimes lol

[@Jpilgrim30]

@@moo3993 yeah Toyotas are pretty straightforward. Nissan is a little crazy as well. Had one come in recently with a key light on the dash that wouldn’t go away and it had a code for a hood switch circuit. Eventually found that the car didn’t have a hood switch as only the remote start cars had them and someone had enabled the remote start option in the BCM. Of course I had to find out for myself as it was an auction car so we had no history or customer to get any information from. Turned it off and the code and lights went away.

[@moo3993]

@@Jpilgrim30 that's exactly how I get myself into trouble 😂😂 Tried to get remote start enabled for a buddy of mine on a Ford f150, got the remote start fobs for it, programmed them in, and enabled it in the personality menu on the BCMii, and because his truck didn't have factory cruise control it wouldn't work. Found that out after a couple hours of research. Never say "I can do that, it'll be easy" lol

[@petepeabody8905]

I like the way you roll. The customers are happy, your fans are happy, and you're happy. Perfect ending. Thank you Ivan.......Pete

[@porky7753]

Great work Ivan, you not gonna get this level of service at the dealer.

[@scientist100]

I want to replace dealers for this reason.

[@noelcastle3986]

Great video your patience is what sets you apart from most diagnostic techs. Rather than fixate on the extra time being used you dont become discouraged and enjoy rather than become annoyed when extra complexities occur. Putting up with such a annoying problem for a owner who looks after his truck would have been a constant distraction and no one being able to fix it. Great outcome luckily it eventually showed up with your persistance and abut of luck.

[@jeremyah78]

I completely agree! This truck would be exhausting to a tech on the clock in a traditional shop environment! But the process would still be the same, even if annoying! Document, stop to communicate, and carry on! Only question would be whether or not your boss and the customer think your crazy or not!? In Ivan’s case, he’s built himself a little fame for know-how and integrity… I suspect that takes the “crazy” out of play😂 Hats off to Ivan! Great work as always!

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Well done, Ivan! This went completely different from what I expected! NPR and only 7mA draw - after 20 years, the owner is finally happy, which is the really important outcome.

[@matthewmcmaster2731]

That's why you get cross country business. Your one of the best in the business!

[@shuriKen469]

always nice to see a GM truck from this generation (99/02-06) get diagnosed and repaired every once in awhile. cheers to the owner for taking it to Ivan!

[@cmat57]

I ran into this same issue with the HVAC control module years ago. There is a Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-007B stating it can take up to 4.5 hrs for the control module to go to sleep. This is a normal condition.

[@scrappy7571]

I posted this in part 1. Alldata has service bulletins, maybe he should have looked first lol

[@timd1833]

4.5 hours? Terrible design!

[@summerforever6736]

It's a pos

[@moo3993]

Good ol delco electronics 😂

[@Walczyk]

@@scrappy7571is there more info about why? Is it a moisture thing?

[@wallebo]

You should be so proud of yourself. No only do you solve difficult and annoying problems but you take the rest of us along for the ride and we are all smarter for the journey.

[@davidreuter5260]

Fantastic! You are the parasitic draw king! Giving the owner options to get around today's complex electronic modules is awesome! Keep up the great videos.

[@richardnilsen8950]

Moral of the story: intermittent drain creating Havoc for the owner,the other repair shops ivan has the patience and awareness to go the distance ivan wins again Great video👍👍👍👍👍 Bonus footage run the drive cycles to ensure you Don't have any comebacks And a happy customer

[@georgegonzalez2476]

Great job. One thing, the rear audio draw could be caused by one speaker lead shorted to chassis. That would send about half the battery voltage to ground through a 4 or 8 ohm speaker. Very roughly the right current. The speaker could still work through the other side’s push-pull driver.

[@dwindeyer]

When you start getting into 20+year territory, it's possible that a large percentage of used spares may have common age related failures like the sleep issue on that HVAC module. At that point unless someone has figured out how to refurbish them you'd have to resort to solutions like you came up with.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Exactly right!

[@Walczyk]

Interestingly, this is normal behavior. TSB says it can take over four hours

[@kevin9c1]

@@Walczyk I suspect the HVAC module is actually doing something like measuring the interior temp (but not sure why).

[@yordanipla4430]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Hello, I have this same problem, what was the solution of this, was it the fuel pump or the time synchronization? F150 Ecoboost no start

[@shadetreewrenching]

If I remember right, the auto climate control head on 03-07 gmt800 platforms can actually take several hours to fully go to sleep. Edit, others already posted about this. It's normal and eventually does go to sleep....

[@zenithperigee7442]

@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, hey Ivan, enjoyed the videos! The build date for the CCM was just above the place of assembly, "18Oct02" - Oct. 18, 2002 I would presume. What's interesting to me is that once you removed the CCM fuse, the amperage went from ~.458 to ~.420 which suggests that the CCM was actually drawing the "normal" 30-40 mA instead of the 75 or 100+mA we saw in the first video. Glad you finally figured this one out Ivan! It suggests to me that there is likely something wrong in the design of these CCM's or that they just don't age well. Maybe it's an internal component/pathway issue that develops over time. As for the fix, I think that's what someone else did but I believe he used a relay and fuse in the circuit.

[@ghettsumm7949]

In part 1 you swore No Russian Hacks, But I understand as long as the customer approves, LoL

[@fieldsofomagh]

Just can't believe that draw is down to a mega 7mA. That was a deep, deep diagnosis with no stone left unturned. No wonder customers are coming from far away global proportions to solve their auto problems. Give yourself a clap on the back and celebrate this milestone. 😊

[@kerrylewis2581]

Interesting comments in this thread. I'm glad the owner is happy.

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Nice work Ivan! Although I am not sure if some are aware how much time is invested in this diagnosis and repair? At our shop they charge $140 an hour. So 10 hours in this repair = $1400 with no parts required. Time is money, just as parts are. Just want people aware that this is not free, some baulk at a 1 hour starting diagnosis. I frequently hear, "you're going to charge me just to check it?" :/

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

For this one I charged (no pun intended) 4 hours diag plus wiring modifications 👍

[@thk7513]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have voiced my opinions in the past concerning the repairs you have performed and not completing a diagnosis. I have a feeling you sell yourself short on the times you charge. This is your work and not your hobby. Like others and this guy, they have lived with a problem for a long time and have paid others to load the parts cannon to no avail. If you got ten hours invested for diag and repair, charge them. It's not your problem they did not get their car repaired by others; they should go back to the "repairing facility" and get their money refunded. I, when owning my own repair shop, I gladly have written a check or two for ineffective repairs in which one of my techs said "all fixed". Again this is your job and not your hobby, charge accordingly.

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That is good to hear! At your skill level you could charge what ever you feel is fair and people should be ecstatic to know it’s repaired correctly. Our business gets a bad rep from people are don’t put nearly as much caring and consideration into their work. And they charge WAY more for doing it wrong. Smh Keep up the great work!

[@SerenoOunce]

There's a difference between time spent diagnosing and time spent researching and learning. Need to separate those times to be fair to the customer. Honest work = endless supply of satisfied customers.

[@thk7513]

@@SerenoOunce All part of getting it fixed.

[@jcnikoley]

Why not also swap constant power for the rear audio controller to ign power? Wouldn't that also remove the parasitic draw, but maintain the functionality of the rear audio controls?

[@timd1833]

Good point!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Sure but there was no convenient ignition power source in the rear console 😄

[@jcnikoley]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That makes sense. If it were my vehicle, I would do the charging pad and rear audio module to be powered on (if) ign power = on, but if I had to charge someone labor for that, it could be expensive.

[@philllsxga.7737]

Great video! All of that aftermath garbage is the problem! I thought you said the customer love's his truck?!!

[@calholli]

I would have just tied that rear radio module to another ignition power and then tap the phone charger off of that also, since it's right there. Then you would have kept full function of everything he had in the truck. I don't mind running an aftermarket wire myself. I've done it many times to put amps and subs in cars. You can make it look nice and somewhat factory if you just follow the factory harness and then broadly "stripe wrap" the wire to the harness. but in this case, you likely could have just traced the radio wire to the source and tapped an ignition hot right there at the fuse box. Many vehicles already have a couple "aux" fuse connections built into the interior fuse box that are tied to ignition power....... But I guess I understand, it's all a matter of what the customer wants to pay for.

[@JohnSmith-wb6kq]

How would doing what you suggest stop the parasitic draw since it is the module at fault?

[@JB-mn2gu]

@@JohnSmith-wb6kq It’s the same as with the HVAC module which is now hooked to ignition. I was saying the same thing about the phone charger. Just put it on ignition. Key off , power off.

[@JohnSmith-wb6kq]

@@JB-mn2gu Ahhh soyou meanttied to switched power, now I got it was unsure what ya meant

[@calholli]

@@JohnSmith-wb6kq Ya.. Ignition power, switched power, key on power, etc.. I'm not sure what powers that rear radio module-- but there was likely an easy way to swap it to switched power. I'm sure Ivan pitched it to the guy, but he just wanted to cut back on cost. Maybe the guy will do all that himself at home, now that he knows where the issue is.

[@throttlebottle5906]

just add relay's powered by an ignition controlled source to switch all of the circuits causing issues.

[@JohnDoesGarage]

You do realize I was dying by the time you dropped the second video, right? Interesting case study. I really appreciate how you share your thought process when troubleshooting. Thank you for another great video.

[@gonzgarr1592]

Ivan does it again wish i was younger and lived by you i would give my time to learn from you , you are top knotch thanks

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

We can see why you need the vehicle for a couple days for sure! Hard to imagine that so many things were contributing to the drain. Oh well, I guess it’s an old truck, and all the electronics are getting old as well. Beautiful truck, though, hopefully he enjoys it for a long time yet. Another great day I can fix, Ivan!

[@vpimike2646]

This actually looked like an easy fix for you, Ivan. In retrospect, it amazes me that the previous technicians couldn't figure it out. Your videos are very entertaining and educational, keep up the great work!

[@scrappy7571]

Previous techs most likely checked for a draw, and found it to be normal. Intermittent problems take time. Ivan was lucky to catch it when it was acting up. Customers here like to "wait" for everything, so we would have sent it packing too, if the draw was normal.

[@ThisIS_Insane]

IVAN! That was amazing!! Love watching you show these vehicles who's in charge! Calm under pressure, is one of your Super Powers, and you bring it everyday! Thank you, for helping your clients enjoy their vehicles! KUDOS! 👍👏👏👏🦾🦾🦾

[@kc6nfv746]

That's a cool tool picks up the warm parts

[@calholli]

It's almost three hundred.. plus you have to already have a phone.

[@kthwkr]

That radio and module brings back memories. I did design on that radio and module back in 2003. I was assigned to pursue some reported bugs and find the solutions. And I did. And management, including GM management rejected all my solutions as too costly to fix. So nothing ever got done. Truthfully the bugs were very minor and rare so not fixing them was a pretty good decision. If the radio supports OnStar it usually does not go to sleep for at least 5 minutes because it stays powered up just in case the car dies in a bad situation where the passengers needed rescue via OnStar which happens about once every million years. And it is required to function with battery all the way down to 6V. That stay-powered-up feature drove me nuts on the lab bench when I was trying to debug behaviors when the radio was in sleep mode. I could unplug from the bench supply and then plug back in but the radio would power back up then go into the 5 minute holding pattern again. Sometimes I would have half dozen of those radios on my lab bench at once waiting for sleep mode.

[@LesReeves]

Even back then there was too much electronic options that could fail.Not all new gadgets should be intergrated in vehicles (my personal view point ,the simplier your vehicle is the less problems will occur).Cheers .

[@ThisIS_Insane]

Elon Musk lives by the creed of "the best part, is NO part", and streamlines his operations with that in mind. I agree!

[@rkan2]

I think this is ok. This is simple enough to still reverse engineer or do some easy board repair. Basically impossible with most newer vehicles where first of all everything is potted shut and so vertically integrated that there are parts you won't find on eBay... Or if you do, they are not programmed at all. I just fixed a Renault dimmer switch which is just a resistor network.. One open resistor 😂

[@twobuck4093]

96 Toyota Corolla enters the chat

[@GarnConstructionInc]

Wow three draws removed two by measuring the fuse voltage drops. You didn't need the thermal imagery but its cool to see. Nice work!

[@benjaminrich9396]

"The owner is totally cool with that" - nice ac pun there Ivan. :p

[@jerryking2418]

Well done. I admire your patience.

[@pantherplatform]

I rebuilt the rear diff in a 1997 Ford F150 Lightning SVT with a supercharged 5.4 2V and it was a pretty sweet truck. Had to test drive it to the owner's house to pick him up and bring him back to the shop to pay the bill. Nothing but two lane roads around here. Very clean truck.

[@ToxicwasteProductions]

You can wire the charger and the rear stereo to an ignition switched output. Along with the trailer control module could be ignition switched

[@markperry4076]

Youa are correct. The charger was wired to the rear power socket. Which is probably constant battery power. So it needs to be wired to an ignition switched battery power.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

In the 91 GM 2500 and 3500 pickups the HVAC module would kill the battery overnight.......intermittently. the fix was a GM reman module. Get this. The cost for the reman module was about $70.00. The core charge was over $100.00! Go figure! Checking for module problems I would connect an adapter that would allow the engine to be started. To check for the drain I put my 10A DMM across the adapter then did this with the ign switch. On-Off-On-Off-On-Off then remove the heavy connection allowing current through my meter. The On-Off 3 times was something I learned from Chrysler Diagnostics back then. It still works today. The intermittent would show itself most times. Sometimes a second On-Off 3 times sequence was needed. HTH.

[@jhonditch4269]

those GM HVAC modules may be all makes are problems waiting to occur

[@dougkubash8673]

Great job! Your fix on the hvac module worked great on this truck and the Dodge also. I was hoping you would take it out for a test ride and punch it a couple of times!! haha!

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

Nice job Ivan --- Go Chevy Thunder...lol

[@chrissmith7655]

Hi Ivan, great detective work to find all the problems. One thing would annoy me , that drivers door sounds horrible when you shut it, as though the window glass is shaking about inside the door , yuck!! Many thanks from Nr Liverpool UK.

[@zoraaduntov2290]

Great job and a great video as usual Ivan!

[@scientist100]

You have to give cars at least 1 hour for them to go to sleep. A Ford had chasing my tail because I didn't wait long enough and ended up being the battery going bad from the customer complaint with a no crank issue and said they had replaced the battery not long ago. During my initial diagnosis, the smart fuse box was not going to sleep and I condemned it too soon. After replacing it, same problem. Then by accident I waited a longer time when I went to do something else and he draw was down to 15mV.

[@paulpaquette1961]

Nice one Ivan!!! Curious how long ago the "last" tech looked at this. Our tooling was just getting better 20 years ago. Maybe just never had the know-how, tools, or proper training. You have got another Lifelong customer!

[@timcdavis]

I would have switched the console charger to ignition switched power too. That’s just my opinion. Great job I really enjoy your videos.

[@chevyphil3969]

i had a 2003 quadersteer and gm told me it's normal and just turn off the h vac controller. they didn't realize i was a mechanic too and they were feeding me a line of crap i drove mine every day so no big deal. just when i went on vacation to the Poconos race for a week i came back to a dead battery but i kept it for four years putting close to 200,000 miles on it and still sold it back on a trade-in for 15,000

[@ibrahimwaheed987]

Great fix as always Ivan

[@deetee3153]

Job well done Ivan 👏

[@mikecalvin1402]

All things considered that was the hell of a job.😅😅😅😅😅😅🎉🎉🎉

[@richarddiaz591]

Great and thorough as always! I wonder if you did a search online about the hvac module in case it had a tsb? Especially since a complete reset, pulling the fuse, brought the draw down to presumably the normal sleep draw.

[@brianw8963]

Great solutions Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸

[@hooptierescue2540]

Awww, Ivan, I wanted to see you tear that rear seat audio control apart and do a component level repair on it!

[@user-ARK1547]

Your amazing talented with your diagnostic skills thanks for sharing with us your amazing skills .

[@2962Todd]

Awesome video as always!, Couldn’t you wire the cell phone charger and brake controller to ignition power ?

[@billziegmond4943]

WOW! Reminds me of my Dad's 1970 Buick Electra 225. I found the radio and the dash clock (used power to wind the clock and then shut off) both were drawing down his battery,

[@mmichaeldonavon]

Ivan. I couldn't wait for part 2. :-) :-) You have the patience of a saint. Great job, once again. God bless you and your wife.

[@martinarmstrong3233]

WOW, that was a proper whodunnit, you did it!!!!

[@lonwillis783]

Extremely interesting thank you Ivan! 😃

[@knightnrmer]

Amazing.... I learn so much from you .

[@SerenoOunce]

The HVAC CCM draw is actually a common issue for that generation of GM. For both OE and Dorman. Bad software design that was never corrected. Though there is also a bidirectional calibration procedure for the vent actuators. Only takes a min to run so worth a shot.

[@baxrok2.]

Awesome. Thanks Ivan!

[@larrygall5831]

For the phone charger, you could find the wire for the rear radio that is on only in "run," to power it. Then he could keep it and there's no danger of parasitic draw. It draws very little current.

[@dustcommander100]

Great diagnosis!!! Fancy shmancy stuff at the root again! I've always maintained that in most cases, it was the stuff you really didn't need that cost the most to buy and to keep operating.

[@cheeseo9798]

Had a 2017 1500 4x4 that came from the east to cali with a huge draw and a fuel problem. The fuel module above the spare tire had the green crusties and the 100 amp + draw was the block heater. After popping the fuse in my meter I got out my big scanner to use as a meter as it goes to like 150 amp and it turned out to be a shorted block heater. The fuse was 120 amp in the fuse block on top of battery. I unplug the heater and there is still a mild draw which ended up being the Tcm that is built into the trans pan on the 6 or 8speed.

[@markt5426]

Thanks Ivan. 👍

[@AlAmantea]

Ivan, could you not have powered the Wireless charging pad from keyed power off the RSA? This would kill the pad when the key is off, but maintain functionality for the owner. Great job tracing down these parasitic draws. 0.007mA is a fantastic result. Patience and due diligence gets results every time!

[@summerforever6736]

Nice work!!!

[@jakefremgen444]

Just let the customer know that on these trucks when the hvac loses power and then regains it and you see it go to 74 degrees you have to let it cycle for about 2 minutes while it cycles all the blend door operations. Then the procedure is to turn the key off for 10 seconds and then restart vehicle and use as normal. Otherwise if you just get in and start immediately messing with the controls you will have issues like heat coming from one side of the vents and cold air coming from the other side.

[@bradfaught1695]

My daughter's friend bought an audi that has some issues. I told them to hit you up for an accurate diag/repair. Hope you don't mind, not a lot reliable shops for euros out here in rural indiana county.

[@Jpilgrim30]

I wouldn’t disable battery power to that hvac module. It’ll go to sleep after several hours. If you touch the temperature settings right away after regaining power and before the calibration is complete it’ll mess up the actuator calibration and you have to reset it again to get it right.

[@SerenoOunce]

I'd soon wire in a solar trickle charger than rewire a digital HVAC. Having to adjust it after every key cycle would be far more annoying.

[@arnaldofettuccine5227]

👍👍 The owner must be a patient person to put up with that for 20 years. I'm glad you were able to find such a simple fix.

[@publicmail2]

Under 50 ma is fine, some cars are 60ma, all depends on modules. 7ma is excellent most any newer vehicle won't come close. Most batteries are 100Amp hr so if you do the math at 50 ma that's 2000hrs till dead half that 1000 hrs is 41 days till batt is half empty.

[@badgerdave22]

Awesome fix, Ivan! I hope you waited until you were off the bike to post this for us! :D

[@austenj4539]

Recap - first tool to use with any parasitic draw ... the thermal camera on your phone! That could have saved all the effort of Part 1. I like the wiring fix to cut the permanent battery feed to an off/on supply linked to the ignition key.

[@leonardodavinci303]

except it was an intermittent problem and wasn't present in part one. Thermal wouldn't have seen anything then.

[@fluffyblue4006]

Rear audio control module that needs constant battery power?!? That I did not consider when I was trying to figure this out after seeing part one. It's crazy. Why this thing needs constant battery power? Why it needs to be a module, anyway? There is (or should be) a perfectly good F/R fader control in the head unit. So, the charger pad was also a draw. Not so bad as I expected with metal in it but still considerable if this truck sits for weeks at a time. Perfectly good fix on the hvac module. Nice job.

[@SerenoOunce]

Th RACM is on constant power as part of the Key Off delay circuitry. Module needed both to switch to headphones and for separate volume adjustment.

[@sohailrabani]

These parasitic draws take lot of time to diagnose and working hours are always pain for customers 😒 for them it should be 1 hour magical job😂..great work sir.cheers

[@marlinyoung1606]

What a hack job in the fuse box. Could’ve used one of those mini fuse jumpers with the wire made on it, would look much cleaner and have a better connection

[@JohnSmith-wb6kq]

I enjoyed these 2 vids Ivan, shoulda done a wee segment showing test drive acceleration haha

[@user-my7hv5ld7b]

this is were you out shine the competition in electric repairs you lost me on the hvac fuse

[@billneu9520]

When no one can fix your parasitic battery drain, bring your car to Ivan the thinking man with patience. Bill N LI NY

[@keysautorepair6038]

Time will always draw power from your mind.

[@calholli]

How do you know it's not giving power TO your mind, until the end of your time.

[@scottmcintosh2988]

My friend had a quadro steer went around an exit at 80 mph ! Impressive !

[@sargetester99]

use a relay to make/break the comms wire. by using a relay that is controlled by key switch ignition, you can make&break the devices communication wire and now you have the best of both worlds, best battery condition for long time and save presets memory.

[@jgeorges3061]

AWESOME AS ALWAYS BROTHER ALWAYS LEARN SOME THING FROM UR VIDEOS THANKS FOR SHARING. CHEEEERS

[@stevee4621]

Great fix, could you have put the charger and rear audio unit on switched ignition power also so they only ran with the key on, do you think that would have worked?

[@KarlAdamsAudio]

I thought it was notable that the full-time power feed to the HVAC controller was through a 10A fuse - seems like they intended this to do more than just hold up some SRAM while the ignition is off.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yes that's the main power feed for the blend doors etc 👍

[@zx8401ztv]

Ahh the bypass/rework has saved the day :-D It's not a bodge, it's a correction of the really stupid failed design!. There should of been no power to all the user modules when the ignition is off. Modules not timing out also sounds like a money grab, so you have to buy a new one., hmm?

[@mikemurphy7519]

As suspected, the draw from the hvac was not enough to kill the battery in 3 days. The rear radio head, yes, that could do it.

[@_RiseAgainst]

As always nice job. Simplifying rarely used vehicles is the way to go. The only problem I see with the "freedom" repair job is a lot of vehicles run the blend doors through their range of motion at each hard reset. This could wear them out faster.

[@user-my7hv5ld7b]

truck not a daily driver used 2 or 3 times a month

[@TheBry_Guy]

he should have put a disconnect on the battery/s 20 years ago :) Old co-worker had a similar issue with his RV. His had a switch mounted under the dash under his brake controller, but many just leave it near the battery. in this case, the drain occurs in a few days so a switch isn't convenient if you are actually using the vehicle, in my co-workers case, it went dead in 1-2 weeks..

[@randy1ization]

strong work,, sometimes you just have to spend some time with vehicles.. untangling all of the add on junk, and figuring out factory shortcomings. more often than not, its the customer add ons that cause the problems.. also that brake controller wired to constant power is the next thing thats going to cause him headaches.

[@AP9311]

Wow, that's quite a few parasitic draws!! But can't you write the wireless charger to ignition fed power instead of hot all times? Overall great video is fixing all the issues!! Great job Ivan

[@destruct61]

I would have wired that wireless charger into accessory power not constant there would be no problem with a draw if that were the case

[@gebentech3915]

Another neat diagnosis!!! But wouldn’t it be easier to use z current clamp meter at first instead of disconnecting the battery cables??

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

Was there an accessory power near where the rear seat radio control and the phone charger were connected? The radio controller and cell phone charger wouldn't be needed unless someone is in the vehicle.

[@2Wingers]

your logger is nice , i use my snap-on blue tooth vom and record data with my ipad of phone a lab scope ,got to love aftermarket install to any power lines lol

[@krama2940]

Nice job Ivan! You nailed it.

[@richardspees841]

As someone who helped develop aftermarket audio components, during the 2000's, and doing a lot of research on all kinds of vehicles, with GM trucks and SUVs the 45MA draw after an hour or is actually quite common. The RSA has a lot of failure, and replacing the HVAC module with a brand new one may not fix the issue. They were also a pain in the a**.