Platinum Rubber On 3D Prints? Now You Can!

Thanks to Siraya Tech for sending us their new platinum rubber Defiant 25.
Check it out here. This is an affiliate link; I earn a commission if you make a purchase using it. Thanks for your support!
www.amazon.com/Siraya-Tech-Si...

[@yossarian7617]

There's a workaround that avoids any platinum rubber cure inhibition. It works with any UV Resin for 3D printing. When reaching the UV light cure stage, first submerge the 3D parts in water (clear glass container) and then place the UV light on top. I cure it until the resin looks a little cooked, i.e. gets a brown-ish color. Nobody really knows why this works. Some theorise that under UV light the water molecules change the orientation of the surface molecules of the plastic in such a way that the inhibitory molecular structure remains on the inside. Or maybe the inhibitory molecular structure attaches to the water molecules, thus washing them away.

[@sykospace]

UV while its in water?

[@yossarian7617]

@@sykospace Yep.

[@tubehound8]

I don't know how anyone watching your videos wouldn't become a superstar .

[@FranklyPeetoons]

These videos make my mouth water. While watching them, I often eat a sammich. I pretend as if I'm eating the actual molding material. That stuff always looks so delicious.

[@anon_y_mousse]

I was beginning to think KZbin unsubbed me, but here you are, yay!

[@leahqueen849]

I'm a novice and learning, but now I know the difference between platinum rubber and tin cure. Thank you!

[@doublezero7850]

Awesome! I'll definitely be trying this rubber out in the future!

[@cerberus333dog]

Glad to see you are back!

[@juliogrimaldo7]

You are the best!!! thanks, sir!!

[@scottjensen7555]

Thank you for this video. I ran into the problem of my silicone rubber not curing with resin prints. This may solve my problem.

[@mortyrickerson6322]

Love this channel ❤️ thank you for sharing

[@farfaraway4285]

Excellent, thank you sir.

[@Theexplorographer]

Thanks Robert! Great video and great to see you in long form.

[@IPrint3dMinis]

This is awesome, we do so many resin prints. It's nice to see a mold solution for that specifically.

[@TheZahnputz]

since oxygen contact causes the cure inhibition in UV-resins - which then causes the cure inhibition with platinum silicones - the postcuring submerged in water is the crucial step! there are quite a few options, e.g. "elastosil vario..." from wacker, that also work great with sla prints.

[@yossarian7617]

I can confirm that UV light curing the parts in water will resolve any rubber cure inhibition, regardless of what brand of rubber you use.

[@ikedosch9443]

Another great video, thank you Robert! I use SirayaTech 3D printing resin all the time, will have to try this product soon!

[@BaronMcCausland]

Quote of the Video: "Mankind's Most Magnificent Material" LOL! Good one, Robert!!

[@alexmakhoul1330]

Can't wait to get my hands on this , hope it's available in the UK soon

[@aiwditbh]

Use talc powder on seam and it will align perfect every time.

[@tanterouge4339]

Sure am interested to see how it performs with resin from other companies as well!

[@Sgat8516]

I can confirm this product works wonderful. Its available on amazon as 1kg bottles, hopefully they'll release a larger size soon. Its a shore 25 silicone those. This wont flex and demold as easy as other products.

[@adwro4970]

I've just noticed the Toblerone in the background and laughed pretty hard :D great videos, thank you!

[@EJTechandDIY]

I only use siraya tech resin, I will need to get my hand on some of there silicone. thank you for video

[@VictoriousGlory]

thanks for the vid

[@0Metatron]

This is great to hear, I hate tin rubber for its shelf life. Takes no time at all before what’s left in the bottle is completely useless

[@voidborn-one]

I am happy you posted a new video. Welcome back! Hope the hiatus brought back your energy and passion for YT.

[@RobertTolone]

Oh, I’ve been doing videos all along. The release dates got held up for a variety of reasons so I filled in experimenting with shorts. Lots more videos to come!

[@voidborn-one]

@@RobertTolone personally I am fighting against me watching shorts (and winning!) because they were wasting too much of my time. I've missed yours too. On the other hand I enjoy greatly your edutainment full length videos and really appreciate that the next video is not available for a rabbit hole run;) don't need it fast. Anyway I want to strongly point that I am really happy you still have heart for KZbin and sharing your experience. Please keep taking me on that journey on your own pace. I just wanted you to feel appreciated for that.

[@mr_roo]

Love to see you playing with this stuff! Such a wonderful wealth of knowledge - will definitely have to try some of this new rubber :)

[@xeraoh]

There are some resin that doesn't need spec.silicone for example the siraya fast smoky black only need a strong UV treatment and rest for 1-2 days after printed and it is good to go with very fast curing (about 4 hours, the 24h won't work) platinum silicones. 1:40 - FDM printed materials like PLA, PetG and flexibles (tried many brands) are not inhibiting the platinum silicones at all, maybe some exotic metal filled ones but never used those for mould making

[@eldergodscreations]

I had a thought about using food coloring to tint the rubber but then I remembered there are silicone rubber pigments available like pigments for resin. I good fix for the clear conundrum. ❤

[@polgarath]

Thanks for all the info! Love all your vids, i want more! Hopefully in my future endeavors, you wont mind me asking for your advice. Ofcourse I'd try my best not to ask any stupid questions and will only seek your guru-ness when I cant seem to find an answer 😋

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks! You are my first ever Super Thanks donation. I appreciate it!.

[@MindsMouth]

My personal fix for taking molds of Resin printed or primed objects is to spray the item with a few coats of Clear Lacquer and let dry overnight completely. Works like a charm, every time and a can of spray lacquer only costs a few dollars. You've taught me most of what I know about mold making and casting, keep up the great works 👍👍👍

[@ArtisanneChocolatier]

does the clear coat cover up fine details though? I'm trying to make chocolate molds and don't want small text to become less evident. I'm testing it out this week, just wanted to ask. So much to learn!

[@MindsMouth]

@@ArtisanneChocolatier Do light coats from the recommended 12-16" distance from your item. Let dry a full 20 minutes and check to make sure the lettering isn't being filled in by too much spray. Hope this helps. Each layer you add will lessen the detail slightly.

[@ArtisanneChocolatier]

@@MindsMouth thank you very much! I'm testing it out this week. So excited.

[@WShawn]

Were you molding with tin or platinum-cured rubber? All evidence and tests I've done show simply sealing an SLA with lacquer won't work for platinum-cured silicone.

[@MindsMouth]

@@WShawn I was using platinum silicone. Tried the cheap stuff and name brands from Amazon. Spray two coats of clear lacquer, let each coat dry 24hrs.

[@UncleJessy]

Siraya tech silicone ?!?!?🤯🤯🤘

[@RobertTolone]

I know! I love their printing resins and now this!

[@h7opolo]

excellente

[@rowanstephenson3192]

This is excellent Robert wish I had the confidence to try never heard of this rubber before 😊

[@RobertTolone]

It’s brand new; they just put it on the market.

[@ericpdesign]

@@RobertTolone The 3-D print is only inhibiting silicone cure because the print itself is not fully cured. Even though 3-D prints can seem fully cured they are porous and can even sweat out uncured resin. Because of this before making silicone molds you need to make sure to give them extra UV exposure. I give mine an entire 24 hours before I make a silicone mold of the print. No need For crappy tin rubbers or clear coating in lacquer. Just more light!

[@WilSisney]

Now this is the kind of test I love to see! I have been using platinum cure silicone with resin prints and have run the gamut of challenges that it brings. I usually get by with extra caution in my cleaning process (using alcohol only) and letting the print off-gas for a while, but sometimes I have also had to use Inhibit-X for this reason. The X in Inhibit-X must stand for expensive, though, because it costs a lot. It also changes the surface texture of the print, which the mold picks up. So this silicone from Siraya Tech seems like a wonderful solution and I will definitely switch over!

[@TheZahnputz]

the postcuring unter water is the most crucial step

[@ericpdesign]

All you need to do is after cleaning give prints 24hrs in UV light or leave in sun for a day. It will no longer inhibit silicone cure. That its, no need for this product.

[@TheZahnputz]

@@ericpdesign sorry, thats not really true - but maybe you got lucky till now. oxygen contact prevents the uv resin from fully curing at the surface - which then may cause cure inhibition with many platinum cure silicones

[@ericpdesign]

@@TheZahnputz Thats why you cure in water instead of open air. Less oxygen content. I have repeated this process hundreds of times its not luck, I understand my materials and how they interact.

[@WShawn]

@@ericpdesign I cured an SLA print for days and sealed it following SmoothOn's instructions for their MoldStar 15, and it was a gooey mess.

[@CallousCoder]

I never had a problem mounding my resin casts and I solely use platinum silicone (as it’s the way to go for SFX make up and I love the 30-45 minute demould time) so that’s what I have on hand. I just spray a lacquer or primer over my resin prints.

[@abbystarobin2163]

but doesn't that take away detail?

[@CallousCoder]

@@abbystarobin2163 no the silicon is very low viscosity so you’ll catch every detail. And that little primer hardly fills any detail.

[@TheFpc20]

Wow, that's awesome, what brand or dye are you using? I need to buy big bottles of dye like the one you used, for make the same proccess with epoxy resin, the dye I need have to give me clear colored finish like glass bottles

[@ericpdesign]

I have been doing silicone molds with platinum cure over SLA printed 3-D models for the last four years. I found that all thats needed is to further expose the print to ultraviolet light. You can also just leave them in the sun for a day. No need for expensive silicone, clear lacquer coats, or crappy tin silicone.

[@eugenemarais6723]

If I was to post-cure an SLA part in a UV chamber for 6 hours and set the temperature to 25C and UV light length to 365 nm, which seems to be the wavelength of UVA rays from the sun, would it have the same effect as curing it in the sun? Also, I'm trying to figure out the effect of over curing I see some places say resins will become brittle but others say over-curing has no effect on the resin. What is your view point in that

[@ericpdesign]

@@eugenemarais6723 As far as setting the UV chamber to mimic Sunlight I have no clue as I have never tried that, but it sounds like an awesome experiment and would love to hear the results you are getting. As far as over curing in my experience it has a lot to do with the type of resin. non water washable resins do much better with over exposure and also are much less likely to inhibit silicone cure. Water washable resins and especially plant based water washable resins seem to over cure much easier. It also depends on how thin the print layer is. A very thin object will become brittle much faster from over exposure than a thick section of cured UV resin. This is probably why people are reporting mixed results as they are all using different resins and different thickness prints and trying to compare them as one in the same. It's apples and oranges. If you are goin to post cure I would always suggest doing it with the print submerged in water as there is much less oxygen content in water than air and the oxygen is part of what can inhibit Resin Curing (which in turn effect silicone cure inhibiting) and also increase the breakdown speed of the print do to over exposure.

[@isekaiexpress9450]

There's a workaround by making a cast of photopolymer in tin silicone first, then do a intermediate form with epoxy model and finally make a platinum cast with it.

[@Eliteforce1uk]

I have been using silicone for resin prints for many years, they all pretty much work. the true test is prolonged use. Lets see if the Siraya Tec silicone doesn't start sticking to the resin after 30-40 uses.

[@RobertTolone]

Tinbased silicone rubber has always worked for me. I think it is platinum silicones that cause trouble when used on 3-D resin prints.

[@richardkatzman2066]

Bob, this project looks great. Could you put a drop or two of dye in the clear rubber to give it some color? I would try it. Other than that it looks to be a winner unless you need the rubber to be softer. Maybe you should ask Siraya Tech if they can make an adjustment in their formula to make it softer. You don’t know unless you ask. It’s in their benefit to do it because they will sell more rubber. Glad you’re back. Best regards, Richard

[@RobertTolone]

Siraya Tech wrote to me after this vid came out to say it never occurred to them to dye the rubber. Apparently it is a special dye needed to dye silicone. I’ve never tried to dye it.

[@richardkatzman2066]

@@RobertTolone well there you go. Could be the answer to the problem. The other problem about the stiffness would have to be directed to the manufacturer.

[@CombustibleL3mon]

I've been using platinum cure silicone to make moulds from my PLA 3d prints for a couple of years now and had no issues

[@JohnClark-tt2bl]

Thermoplastics don't usually cause a problem. The UV resin that resin printers use, can however.

[@CombustibleL3mon]

@@JohnClark-tt2bl That's fair. What's the advantage of using resin for the model then?

[@JohnClark-tt2bl]

@@CombustibleL3mon Resin printers can create much better detail than any fdm printer. The layer lines can be greatly invisible in some cases. A lot less post processing than with fdm printers too.

[@CombustibleL3mon]

@@JohnClark-tt2bl That's cool! With my PLA parts I do have to do a fair bit of work sanding and filling before spraying a lacquer coat.

[@JohnClark-tt2bl]

@@CombustibleL3mon yeah none of that is really necessary with resin. It sands well, and with the thin layers a couple coats of clear coat usually covers it without any sanding.

[@steveprimatic]

I've been using platinum cure silicon with PLA prints for years and have never had an inhibition problem. Resin prints are another matter..

[@supergiantbubbles]

Sure, but that's both slower and more expensive with more opportunities for failure.

[@niahanabishi5954]

I actually think I've had a print made in Sirayatech Navy Grey ( not sure which, but it was definitely SLA Printed) , and I had it cure perfectly without any special silicone; both Smooth On stuff and the various mold silicones you can get on Amazon. Post cured it, naturally, but didnt have to seal it or anything to stop inhibition. I am dubious as to the claim that this is somehow more effective than normal.

[@RobertTolone]

People often complain that they experience cure inhibition while molding 3-D printed resin parts. I suppose it was enough of a problem that Siraya Tech thought it was worth developing a product for. I have molded several different kinds of printing resin with tin-based rubbers without any issues.

[@LeonardGreenpaw]

I have used smooth-on's mold star 20t platinum on elegoo abs-like resin without issue

[@RobertTolone]

I’ve never tried platinum on that resin, but tin rubber works well with it.

[@LeonardGreenpaw]

@@RobertTolone specifically mold star, the ecoflex platinum is confirmed failure

[@terryperrott8567]

Nice , So the 10 shore that you usually use the softer one, would you recommend to use it or the 25 for casting parts with under cuts ? Nice test vlog

[@RobertTolone]

The tin rubber I usually use is 25 Shore. 10 is great for cutting but you have to be careful closing the mold so that the rubber bands don’t deform it.

[@anaolkebede3662]

Hello sir i am interested .how can i get small casted moulds please ??or how can i get liquid silicon rubber for moulds please help me please ....????

[@anaolkebede3662]

Please please please

[@pherja]

Wow very interesting! By the way, what are the dyes you used? I’m wondering if I can use them to mix with 3D Printing resin. I’ve had success with other color additives, but they’re always very weak colored.

[@RobertTolone]

They are UD dyes from www.silpak.com.

[@TheZahnputz]

those tints should work too, i made a video about tinting sla resins with epoxy and polyurethane pigments a while back, feel free to check it out on my channel

[@pherja]

@@RobertTolone Thank you muchly!! Will check them out.

[@pherja]

@@TheZahnputz cool, I’ll take a look! Thanks!

[@taftancastingchannel]

Like 👍🏼🙂

[@williecm1640]

The defiant 25 works great with SLA prints!!! But the Smooth-Cast 325 urethane doesn’t cure in the mold, any thoughts?

[@RobertTolone]

Other than, you never know what’s gonna work until you try it, I have no answer. Many times I have seen material combinations that should work, but don’t. That’s why I always emphasize testing your materials to be certain that they work together. Some things just don’t like to play nice.

[@baschz]

Wondering what the results will be with any other platinum based silicone when the washing and curing steps are the same.

[@RobertTolone]

Try it and see. Other people have commented that they also water cure the resin, and it works with platinum rubber

[@barbarrosa503]

what is the name of the sticky wax please?

[@davesilva9174]

Hi Robert I prefer brush molding my casts and usually use Smooth on Dragon Skin 20. I use their color dyes to tint the platinum silicon as well. Anyway, my question is, is it possible to brush on this Sirius Tech Platinum silicone on my sculpts? I’m buying this product anyway and will let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the long-form videos!

[@gladiatormechs5574]

my resin seemed to have expanded in my mold.. used smooth cast 66 D as my resin.. i was told that it could have been caused by contaminants that were on my mold.. i did test out the mold with RICE.. perhaps the rice left a powdery film inside the mold.. Robert what do you think caused the expansion.. room was aprox 70 degrees.

[@RobertTolone]

Did it foam at all? Sometimes you can’t tell until you cut the casting open.

[@gladiatormechs5574]

@@RobertTolone it definetly expanded.. i will try again by cleaning out the mold, let it dry and this time NO RICE... i will let you know my results... cheers

[@gladiatormechs5574]

Robert, i made fairly large size molds.. i think that the sheer size of the resin pour has something to do with the amount of expansion.. because the same pour went into a much smaller mold and i did not notice any expansion at all... QUESTION.. is their an oil that you could recommend to coat all of my molds with to extend their life and help with the model release.. Mold release is to costly.. Can i simply use motor oil ?

[@cjadams7434]

so have there been any more tests of this? .. any long term info?

[@MarkATrombley]

Do you have a witness cup protection program?

[@RobertTolone]

No, I’m like a mob boss. In my world the witnesses wind up in the landfill.

[@cindytedeschi4617]

What is "sticky wax"? Where can I get some?

[@nagyesszep]

are you going to do projects too next year?

[@RobertTolone]

Lots of vids are in the works; no plans to retire any time soon!

[@stevetharp6496]

Did you end up having to use your vacuum to get the bubbles out of the resin prior to pouring?

[@RobertTolone]

No, I just put the resin castings in the pressure pot.

[@miles11we]

For some reason, every person iv worked with who is around your age and in a specialized skill type industry, they all sing things they are saying like that and they all use drills the same. I'm assuming the drill thing is because they learned on corded drills and that's just how you use them.

[@runin1wild149]

How much shrinkage do you think there was after making from original 3 D model?

[@rginteractive]

platinum silicon will stay same over years tin silicon will shrink over time.

[@derekknodt2284]

Why do you need platinum rubber for casting resin prints? Will tin not cure?

[@RobertTolone]

Platinum rubber can be useful where tin rubbers won’t work. For instance, some resins (often clear) require platinum rubber. Also, platinum rubber molds do not degrade over time the way that many tin rubbers do. If these things are not important in your project tin rubber should work fine.

[@derekknodt2284]

@@RobertTolone Awesome, thank you for explaining and making such great videos!

[@honestnewsnet]

Curing time?

[@Wade______]

Gday from Australia Robert! I have some questions for you regarding your rubber molds. Do you have an email address that I could send you a few quick questions with? Thanks mate!

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

0:08 - Platnium must be cheaper than platinum.

[@RobertTolone]

It a proprietary super-secret formula! 😄

[@sirayatechofficial]

just caught that. fixing in next batch of labels :D

[@thehomedepothouseplant9986]

Hi Robert did you say you use UD Dye? Would you have a link by chance? Thank you! Big fan of your videos - I've leant a lot from you!