Siraya Tech Cast (Castable Resin) USER GUIDE - casting a silver ring

[@sirayatechofficial]

Hi VogMan, This is Siraya Tech team, and once again, we're truly impressed by your thorough and insightful video of printing and casting with our Cast resin! We love how you've demonstrated the entire process, from preparing the resin to the final results, and explained each decision's reasons. Your attention to detail and the tips you share are invaluable for both newcomers and experienced users in the 3D printing community. Thanks again and happy printing, everyone!

[@vogman]

Thanks for the excellent product - and thanks for the offer of a True Blue giveaway for my viewers. I'm sure they'll enjoy it 😁

[@everildohernandez1335]

@@vogman Can you please try a high detailed casting with Siraya Casting Resin and the Sonic Mini 8k?

[@vogman]

This was on the Mini 8K with ST Cast. Not amazingly detailed, but a nice print and cast. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIfTZod9Z8yda7c

[@grantballard4362]

@@vogman hi thank you so much! About to start my casting journey with True Blue. Any chance that video will come out within a week or two? That’s when I’ll be starting. Thanks for all the insights!!

[@antonvanmessem10]

Hello everyone, I hope you are well! I recently purchased Siraya Tech Cast resin which melts in heat for making jewelry etc. and so I printed calibration cones for my printing parameters. So I do the post process, namely IPA then drying with compressed air then hot water for 30 seconds then cold water for 30 seconds then drying then curing in vegetable glycerin so that there is no oxygen in contact with the resin during curing. I clean the glycerin with water then for a little test I put it through a heat gun to see how it melts etc... and at the maximum power of my heat gun (I would say 300°C it sends wood) the part still didn't melt... there are several pieces that came off but nothing actually melted... I don't know if this is normal? and if anyone has already used it could they tell me how long you have to put it in the oven for it to melt when it's in the plaster! Thank you in advance for your valuable help!!

[@PaulsGarage]

That looks great! Fantastic detail, even the texture of the bug...skin? Shell? Whatever it's called it came through great

[@vogman]

I have no idea either, but Eric would be able to tell you. He's amazingly gifted artist / tutor / designer. The detail he added to the piece made it challenging but fun 😁

[@cerberus333dog]

I was glad to see the non-perforated flask method. The flasks are cheaper and can be more plaster frugal, The results looked very good.

[@rumrun11]

Always enjoy your videos and the knowledge that you share. Thank you.

[@vogman]

I appreciate that!

[@AlexCanciois-an-awesome-guy]

Published this as I’m waiting for a siraya tech solid flask ring to burn out. Good stuff lol 👍

[@vogman]

Sounds fun 😁

[@ОтважнаяКупчиха]

You have a gold hands, good luck and thank you! (hi from Russia)

[@vogman]

Many thanks 😁

[@Mistertbones]

A very good how-to guide. It looks like these resins require a lot more compared to the classic wax, but provide results as great as wax, if not better in some cases.

[@vogman]

I remember talking to a computer programming instructor once who set an exercise to his students to flow chart making a cup of coffee. When you precisely list all the things that are involved, all the possibilities covered, all the steps and counter steps, it looks very complex. It's the same here. Really it's just a simple case of cleaning and curing the print properly and once done a few times, it's very straight forward. But most importantly, it allows you to get the best from the resin 😁

[@HunterValleyDan]

Very nice result Geoff! Well done again!

[@vogman]

Glad you enjoyed it Dan 😁

[@santiagomorenopidal]

Hello VogMan, there is no middle process between the ultra sonic and the magnetic polishing.? If i put a small silver piece straight from the micro fusion owen to the magnetic polishing will it get that shinny?

[@wildguardian]

Vogman, I'd really like to see some macro shots of silver casted pieces compared to their prints.. like a d2 dlp print next to it's silver casted and resin used.. and then a 8k printer print next to it's silver casted.. and resin used. It there's much difference on the voxels of a dlp when casting jewelry.. if those lines simply disappear in the process.. etc

[@absinthesugarcube]

Great video as always. I have a few questions. I guess the IPA is in the tupperware tub in the ultrasonic bath. Not in the bath itself. Do you warm the IPA? What temp is the bath set to? Whats the green stuff in your Ultrasonic bath? What's the medium in you magnetic polisher? Thanks pal.

[@vogman]

Yes, the small plastic box contains Ethanol in my case, but IPA is fine. It means I can use the same tool (the ultrasonic cleaner) without fiddly emptying, etc. I just pull out the box and then place the casting in the green liquid, which is simply water, laundry detergent and a spoonful of citric acid. This liquid removes the remaining plaster and most of the oxidisation. After any filing, etc, the magnetic polisher does the rest. The medium is very, very fine pins which you'll see in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKOcZWeDrJt_a8U

[@absinthesugarcube]

@@vogman I found this. ntrs.nasa.gov/api/citations/19690000520/downloads/19690000520.pdf NASA recomendation for using Volatile Solvents in a ultrasonic bath. Note NASA used baths in the 60's!!

[@vogman]

Doesn't surprise me that those guys would be ahead of the curve 😁 Good find that. As for temperature, which I didn't mention, it's not really an issue. My cleaner does get hotter as it runs, getting up to 75C I think. Obviously you don't want that with alcohols, but it would hurt metal.

[@MrSanjacjewels]

Wow that is really a short flask, more suited to earrings or a pendant. I have 1.5-inch solid flask up to 4 inches tall. The great thing with the taller flask you do not need to fill them to the top, just over the pattern and you still save on investment.

[@vogman]

I think that is the best way to go. Less investment certainly makes things easier on the vacuum, but too little - as we saw here - is a disaster waiting to happen. What I didn't say here was that I did actually enjoy the smaller flask 😁

[@juanofthekind]

I saw somewhere that you can leave some of your supports and use them as vents, also is easier to clean once is casted cuz you wont have indents. Kind that Makes sense

[@alchemychains]

How long would you set the curing to? I cured mine for only 15 minutes suspended in glycerine and noticed it was very hard. Not sure what the best time is

[@1lagger]

Hello! How do you clean glycerin off after curing? Do you just use water inside ultrasonic cleaner or some kind of solution? Thanks!

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@vogman]

Thanks for watching

[@jirvin4505]

Excellent guide. I was wondering if it is possible to add a smaller build plate and tank to economise with smaller builds. I have a Saturn 8k on the way

[@richardburrell]

Gret update. Will have to speed up the repair of my vacuum somehow tht ring is amazing 😊

[@vogman]

Go for it!

[@graealex]

Would removing the oxygen in a vacuum work as well? Would save the glycerine step.

[@vogman]

It's an interesting idea. I'll think on that 😁

[@TeFaGonzalezRodriguez]

Hello, I would like to know what smelting temperature you use, it doesn't work very well for me, I work with gold

[@jayey195]

Did you just let the resin print melt in the mold you created? Just asking

[@ArtMis-v1r]

Hello Great as always Please check the shrinkage of this resin and whether gem can be mounted on this resin before the casting step

[@williamclarkjr5887]

Haven't even watched the video yet, let alone bought a printer yet, but I started hand carving wax models for casting silver and gold. . . But That's a Honeybee, and I Need That File! If it's your design or whatever I will pay for it if need be, and only produce out once, maybe twice, his and hers for the wife and I!

[@josephb3147]

What is your opinion of the ToAuto Melting Furnace for long term use... I see negative reviews on Amazon but trust your opinion much more... Thanks

[@kellickforge]

Does the print start absorbing oxygen again after you take it from the glycerine post curing?

[@ikub58]

What settings do you use for your mars?

[@orafopinofalco1561]

HI I have a photon ultra printer, what parameters should I set to get good results, jewelry sector Thank you

[@LurLemurllcorp]

Which casting temperature you choose for sterling silver, or brass?

[@fraggers07]

Your video is exactly what I was looking for, it's going to save my ass on my degree course so thank you for that. Couple of questions though if I may be so bold, can you show an image of how long you had to make the sprue so it didn't blow out?. And you mentioned an electric polisher...can you be kind enough to put up a link and mention the cost of said device, I have everything else and I thought I was set, that is until I watched your video and realised just how much I am missing. Thank you in advance.

[@vogman]

The sprue was probably just a couple of mm short, but that was enough to allow the mouth to collapse a little. A better approach would have been to make place the ring a little higher, but more horizontal, then sprued to the inside of the band. As for the magnetic polisher, here you go kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKOcZWeDrJt_a8U 😁

[@armaskdaufuzz2286]

Hello, seems like I'm doint exactly the same step by step but I'm having such issue I'm having mirco porosity issues all the time, after polishing it could be noticed on shiny surface, that there is some rash on it. Any ideas what it could be?

[@marc00703]

Nice video! I was wondering if there is any way to do a similar process with this resin and Delft clay if you don't have the tools nor the money to use special plaster, a foundry, etc. Thanks in advance.

[@chrisserra3718]

Hi I’m having trouble with figuring out the print setting for the Siraya tech cast purple for the phrozen sonic mighty 8k print setting for lychee slicer pro. If anyone can give me the exact print settings that’d be amazing

[@rubenkaiser517]

thank you!

[@vogman]

You're welcome!

[@itailu]

question: when mixing investment do you shake the platform when vacuuming the investment in the cylinder?

[@vogman]

A little, yes. The (Arbe) Kaya Cast has a sprung investment table to allow this, though really it's the vacuum that does the job.

[@DavidSarfatti]

Thanks for this video!

[@vogman]

No worries!

[@EwertonMoreira80]

I am totally addicted to your videos! Thanks for the detailed information. Have you ever tried to print lithophanes? I am considering buying a resin 3D printer and print some of them, but I haven't seen any good videos detailing it. Wondering if people would have tips for orientation, design, and pros/cons to FDM.

[@juliansolros3823]

What happens if you don't wash the shiny part off?

[@TheOriginalWilson]

Hi VogMan, Longtime subscriber here. I'd love to see your casting set up/workshop, what you have in it, layout etc. I'm curious to see your safety measures especially as I plan to cast indoors but in a ventilated area. I hope you could do something with that idea? Thanks for the content, i've learned a lot. Well spoken and concise... Not all hero's wear capes!

[@vogman]

What's wrong with my cape? Just kidding. If I showed more of my workshop, health and safety would descend en mass and shut me down.

[@tomyocom5886]

Hello VOG, Question. I have the D2 and DLP Grey resin. I am using lychee pro. I have been printing and it seems that the D2 takes LONGER than other Printers even though it looks like all the numbers on the anycubic site spec sheets seem FASTER than all the other printers except one. I saw your settings in workshop. But do you have lychee settings since you have moved to it? Have been AWED by your work since VOG.....always anticipating your next vid.. Thx in advance Is your D2 slower than other machines. Of course I love the detail and can sacrifice time for it if need be!!!!

[@RoDong97]

hello. It's always good to watch. When printing photon mono x with 0.03 layer in cuitubox, is about 6 seconds appropriate? The temperature of the room is about 20 degrees. Resin uses Siraya Tech - Cast (True Blue).

[@vogman]

Sorry I don't know. You need to run some exposure print tests. See this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIDNc2Z8p5JjpNE

[@arteenclavos]

Exelente. Muchas gracias por este video tan ilustrativo y claro.

[@ValentinPattyn]

Thank you so much for this guide! Can I use a spray of air duster (to clean keyboard) instead of compressed air?

[@vogman]

Yes, as long as there's no moisture. However, you may find it cheaper in the long run to invest in the mini compressor 😁

[@ValentinPattyn]

@@vogman I’m just trying some things out with resin casting so I don’t want to clutter my space with yet another tool yet. But I’ll definitely by one in the future if I make more. Thank you!

[@tonygagey]

Hi Vogman, can i have your thoughts on Pauls garage latest vid on lost pla casting using PLB and zamack, would love to know what you think,and if you know were one can obtain zamack in the uk? cheers mate!

[@vogman]

I've exchanged a few emails with Paul recently so I'm pretty sure I can guess the content of the video 😁 As for Zamak, I've heard of it, know that it's a Zinc Aluminium alloy, and believe I've seen it in the UK at www.artisanfoundry.co.uk, though I've never tried it 😁

[@samwilliams8327]

Zinc aluminium magnesium and copper. High temp but can be cast using vulcanised silicone moulds, needs plating afterwards thought to prevent the metal breaking down

[@michelsouza765]

Hello, does this resin contain wax? and what percentage? thanks.

[@wireless1601]

Why do you prefer the anycube over the 8k phrozen if you don't mind?

[@vogman]

Crisper, finer details. DLPs rock!

[@Mongodrome]

I Always have the issue with droopy prints around the area where the Supports meet the stl with siraya Tech Cast. The Same File with non castable Resin comes Out fine. Is this an issue all castable Resin have? Siraya Tech Cast is the only castable i have used on my private consumer Market printer. At Work we Print only castable Resins and i never encountered this issue. You use 1mm Tips for anchoring the Print?

[@vogman]

Yep, 1mm tip points for anchoring. It seems pretty much but they file to nothing, but stop the print pulling free of the raft. As for sagging, I've experienced it with every long-exposure resin I've used. I've asked around and this seems common, though I've never heard anyone officially admit it. That's what I use a lot of fine supports to ease back the sagging to a manageable level. More clipping, yes, but a better result 😁

[@Mongodrome]

I will try anchoring with 1mm Tips in my next Print and See how it Goes. Atm im using 0.8 mm. For me personally i would be really excited If companies Like elegoo, anycubic or phrozen would try to implement Peeling reduction technologies Into their printers instead of this Auto refill or implemented heater stuff. The hitry was a nice try but from my understanding is a failure. Anyway enough rumbling... Thanks again!

[@antonibiskupski1160]

Hi, do you know what temperature this resin needs to burn out?

[@vogman]

The resin company should tell you. Plus the burnout procedure of the investment powder is usually more than enough.

[@bryanbeast8662]

How do you arrange your supports so that they do not distort the ring? I keep getting bulges where the supports are.

[@vogman]

I tend to you a LOT of supports, and usually brace between those supports 😁

[@melissafarias4931]

Hello! Is there a safer alternative to use instead of the ethanol or IPA? Or which one of those is less toxic?

[@vogman]

Personally I use Bioethanol, which is made by fermenting the sugar and starch. I still wouldn't drink it, but it works well 😁

[@_crazzzy]

Hello, Im new in 3d printing. So any one may recomend Me what 3d printer to buy? Thanks a lot 😊

[@vogman]

For someone completely new to the hobby, I'd recommend not spending too much. With that said, the Anycubic Mono 4K is an amazing little printer and a good price - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqi9iKhtjsyaqJI (check the video description for price checks)

[@JonasNeumann6]

Compared to dlp, the LCD technology seems like it was only a dead end in development. Can't wait for dlp to become more affordable

[@roncouch]

Must confess to knowing nothing about casting jewellery, but do have sketchy recollections of how castings in iron are made using sometimes complicated wooden patterns which are used to create a void in a sand box in the shape of the pattern, which, essentially represents the cast product.. The mould is usually in two half; a top and a bottom. After the sand has been well compacted around the pattern the mould is split and the pattern carefully removed. The mould is closed and locked and the molten iron poured into it through appropriately positioned sprues . Then, there is the process called cerre perdue or in English; the lost wax process, where the wax pattern is completely liquidised during the process as the molten metal fills the space vacated by the wax, which is siphoned off through the sprues. Sadly, I was unable to determine which process was being used. As I said, know nothing about casting jewellery, but thought the process you demonstrated was very clever even though I was unable to fathom the precise method used.

[@vogman]

Hi Ron. You know more than I did when I first started casting 😁 Yes, sand casting tends to use a form that is removed to leave a void in sand. Lost Resin and Lost Wax Casting both sacrifice the form (either the wax object or a resin print), which is why it is termed "Lost." In both cases the form is encased in a special plaster and then burned away over several hours to leave a void within the plaster. In this video I show both wax and resin... kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqGaemt_i9KjidE

[@markmorgan8378]

Long Live Vogman!

[@vogman]

Long live Mark Morgan 😁😁😁

[@authentic4225]

What is the shrinkage ma'man?

[@admiralbees1690]

Oooh, Resin giveaways? Count my broke backside in for a chance with that!

[@vogman]

It's worth a go. You usually post a message anyway 😁😁😁

[@wireless1601]

Why did you tilt the ring a little rather then having it straight down?

[@vogman]

Straight up and down, you are always restricted by the Z Height limitations that ALL budget printers are currently stuck on. Taking advantage of the horizontal means to take advantage of the xy resolution where the D2 shines. Plus, of course, that's the best position for supporting the piece kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4aTdKSVl8-br5Y

[@BabyJesus66]

What's your favorite casting resin, which is the easiest to work with and clean?

[@vogman]

For simplest to use, you can't beat Power Resins. The problem is they are 2 to 3 times the price of others. So I tend to stick with Siraya Tech Cast. The only inconvenience is the glycerine... which I can live with 😁

[@catnamestaken]

Cool

[@ovDarkness]

You've understood it wrong. Oxygen stops resin from curing. This is even called "oxygen inhibition" (and is used by Carbon 3D printers to print REALLY fast). This is why you need nitrogen atmosphere or some other way of blocking O2 without blocking UV (water absorbs UV BTW).

[@DB-zp9un]

arrgh... having a heck of a time getting supports removed..

[@artalvitre8422]

i like the old fashioned method of making a wax pattern from scratch and then cast too much screwing around not to mention the expence of the equipt. and siraya resin cleanup etc,people have lost creativity and have become lazy i used to do work for cartier at so. coast plaza in so. cal back in the 70' for christian bennette