PM Research #3 Engine

PM Research #3 Engine - Part 1

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Nobby's Workshop

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 37

@StuartRogers-t6t 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing Nobby, very interesting!

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Glad you could join me Stuart. Cheers Nobby

@hilltopmachineworks2131 2 ай бұрын

Perfect job for your mini pallet. 👍

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

That’s right Tom. I originally made the pallet/fixture plate with this project in mind, but have used it for many other jobs as well. It’s such a useful tool. ATB Nobby

@EnglishHobbyMachinist 2 ай бұрын

Nice one Nobby, making those first cuts is so important to the rest of the model. Can’t wait for next week. Unfortunately I am in the process of moving house so my workshop is packed up in a shipping container 😂 so I am out of action for about 6 weeks. Fortunately I have several videos lined up to the completion of my engine. ATB Mark

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Exactly right Mark. This was a very important part to get right. Good luck with the move, hope all goes smoothly. Does this mean a bigger workshop space? Take care. ATB Nobby

@EnglishHobbyMachinist 2 ай бұрын

@@nobbysworkshop It does, I will have a double garage, but I prefer a small workshop 👍

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Excellent 👌

@jardine1able 2 ай бұрын

Hi looking forward to seeing how this build goes. All the best to you Nobby. Kind Regards Mike from Cornwall.

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Thanks Mike, I’m hoping it will go smoothly. Cheers Nobby

@MrFactotum 2 ай бұрын

hi Nobby looking good very thorough job👍👍👍👍👍👍 see you next time atb Kev

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Thank you as always Kev. ATB Nobby

@Xynudu 2 ай бұрын

Worked out well Nobby. I have the same Mitutoyo micrometer in metric. It was my first measuring device, Really good unit. Cheers Rob

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Thanks Rob. I do have a Mitutoyo 0-25 mic as well, but tend to use imperial mics most of the time. I feel more comfortable working in 1/1000’s Cheers Nobby

@daveticehurst4191 2 ай бұрын

Looking Great so far Nobby. With regards to the bolting down lugs, just do a spot face for the head of the bolt. That will leave you a thicker lug than if you machined it all over due to casting draugh. Full size ones were done that way too. I know that it is only lightly clamped on yoiur fixture, but try not to do "Rubbing " cuts when trying to clean up the casting as there may still be sand present on the casting surface and it will wear the cutter quickly. You need to get under the skin 20 thou or so if the casting dimentions will allow it. Best Wishes to you both from Australia.

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Thanks again for your help David. I did mean Spot Face the mounting lugs, but I couldn’t remember the term at the time. I’m very nervous machining the base to get all the measurements right. You’ll see why in part two 😮 Cheers Nobby

@StuartsShed 2 ай бұрын

A good start for sure. If you find you are avoiding tramming in your mill vise, you might consider making a couple of tramming blocks. They make it an absolute breeze, and it’s amazing the freedom you get when swapping tooling over is no concern.

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Hi Stuart, not sure what tramming blocks are? The vice came with two blocks that register in the t slots on the mill table, but obviously for a bigger mill. I usually clamp a precision parallel in the vice and clock this in. As recommended by Mr Pete. ATB Nobby

@StuartsShed 2 ай бұрын

@@nobbysworkshop they are just a simple tool. You tram in the same way as Mr. Pete showed - but these just allow you to use a fine adjusting screw to move the vise about. I find there is less overshooting and tapping back going on with these and I can tram a vise in in a few moments. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGiloniggbRqhLssi=G4WVJMfenSXtaHOo

@seamusbolton215 2 ай бұрын

Excellent video, looking forward to the rest of the series You did ask for feed back so here goes The comparator is a beautiful piece of equipment but it is designed to be compare small items against a known standard, its a bit heavy to be moving around your surface plate, if instead you mount a dial test indicator (the lever type) on a height gauge or a surface gauge with fine adjust you will be able to zero out the test indicator and see your plus and minus from zero, also with the lever type indicator if you can move in the indicator in the same direction as it hinges it will travel much smoother across ruff surfaces You don't have to have a heavy stand, just hold it down flat with your hand Another advantage of having the test indicator on a height gauge (especially a digital height gauge) is you can measure and not just compare, by lowering the height gauge down until the indicator reads zero on the surface plate, then zero the reading on the height gauge, then lower the indicator down on the surface you want to measure until it reads zero your will have an exact measurement on your height gauge The base of the casting is your largest datum face and you used a smaller datum face (the rails) to establish the base. Any error in the shorter rails will be multiplied on the longer / wider base Rub the base on a sheet of sand paper on a flat surface and it will naturally remove the high spots first and sit flat If you want to machine a surface on something that is not parallel or square ( i.e. you cant just tap it down on the vice), try using one of those cheap digital angle gauges, zero it out on the mill table and adjust your part to zero (both axis) before you machine. I hope these comments help, but if you feel I am coming across a smart arse, just let me know and I wont comment again Thanks again for the interesting video

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Thanks Seamus. Do keep giving your valuable advice, it’s always welcome. This was the first time I used the comparator. I basically just wanted to check how parallel the base was to the rails on the top at this stage as a guide. Thanks again for your help. Cheers Nobby

@julias-shed 2 ай бұрын

Great video Nobby a bit nerve wracking machining an expensive casting. 😀 That fixture plate is earning its keep again 😀

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

It has been very nerve racking Julia, and it’s not over yet. Still some bits to machine that I’m not looking forward to. This one part has so much to do on it. The fixture plate is so useful as a reference point as well. Cheers Nobby

@julias-shed 2 ай бұрын

@@nobbysworkshop fingers crossed it goes well 😄

@jeff1176 2 ай бұрын

So far, so good as they say. You left that flash material on the casting just to set my OCD on edge, didn't you. Lol nice work Nobby, looking forward to seeing this build all the way to completion.

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Hi Jeff, have no fear, I have removed that nasty flashing now. Cheers Nobby

@johngray2594 2 ай бұрын

Really enjoying this build Nobby, and I’m so glad that it looks to have worked out well. I would never have considered machining the base as you have done, and with the limited experience I have had I dealing with engine castings, I have simply used abrasive papers on a flat surface, and given it the figure of eight motion until it sits flat and non rocking. This I then used as a datum for all other height measurements. It would concern me that it would be necessary to break down the setup to turn the casting over and check for flatness. Delighted it has worked for you and I’m not criticising, just saying it’s not how I would have done it😅

@nobbysworkshop 2 ай бұрын

Hi John. I watched some other KZbin channels, and they machined the base in much the same way. I opted to use this method because the casting is so rough, and would have taken a lot of sanding to get it smooth and flat. Before machining there was a lot of rocking movement on my surface plate. The base now sits perfectly flat giving me a good datum to work from. This is a big learning experience for me, so I guess I’ll make many mistakes along the way. ATB and thanks. Nobby