I wonder if your motor brushes are perhaps getting a bit worn down and causing that uneven speed control when you first start the spindle running on the mill.

Nobby another enjoyable installment, can’t wait to see this eventually running! - Cheers Jim

Great job Nobby I was crossing my fingers for that cylinder bore drilling and reaming. Your mill really doesn’t like slow speed does it? Maybe start faster and wind it down? 😀

hi Nobby nice job, tricky holes next. ive just been drilling some tricky holes too!! see you next time👍👍👍👍🚂🚂🚂🚂😉😉😉😉 atb Kev

Nice bit of precision engineering Nobby 👍

Hello Nobby, As we know the order of operation is very important so we don't run into trouble holding the workpiece... but you reminded me that considering how you are going to measure your work when holding the workpiece in the vice is really important to... an enjoyable video, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

good video nobby

Hi Nobby, too late now but the ideal way to get the cylinder to final lenght is as follows. If you had barely cleaned up one end to get a true surface, then drilled and reamed the 1/2 inch bore, and also did the valve bore too. Then on a 1/2 inch mandrel in your lathe, faced off both ends to final size. Doing it this way ensures that the ends are perpendicular to the bore, so that the end caps and piston rod are on axis. There could be the chance that when you fit the end cap, piston and rod, that it will not line up with your crosshead. I know that you still have to mark and drill it, but should the endcap be out laterally in the horizontal direction, the piston rod will run tight and loose in the crosshead. Depending on what tollerance you have set yourself for the cylinder block length, there may still be a few thou to spare to pop it on a mandrel and skim the end that fits the cap with the gland nut. The blanked off end does not matter it it is not parallel to the bore. Just my " 2 Pennies worth " of what ideally should be done to get an A 1 running piston and cylinder. Your choice so don't let me influence you if you are happy with what you have done so far to the cylinder. Regards from Australia.

Very nice work mister Nobby

G'day Nobby, can't believe that you are up to Part 10 already. What's great about this series, is that it shows just how much thought, planning and execution goes into producing a working model from a set of castings. Great job producing 10 parts Nobby....really appreciated mate - Cheers Jim

Looking good!

Making nice progress Nobby, I like that brass flywheel and your tapping wrench very cool. Cheers……

Another very replaced vid Nobby, brilliant mate , looking forward to the next one. In the meantime stay well and see you next time.!!

Looking very nice mr Nobby

If you are going to paint the spokes then consider this. Where the halves have been misaligned on the spokes you essentially have low spots and high spots leaving an offset. Build up the low spots to meet the high spots using JB weld. Once set, file down the spokes to keep a shape that you desire. Try to take down some of the metal where the high spot is but leave some JB weld on the low spots. This should leave all the curves in place where needed. You can sandblast to add texture back to the filed parts as an optional step. Once painted it will all blend in.

Nice video Nobby, more tiny parts, I hope you don't mind but I have a tool making video coming out next week and I mention you in the video as you made a similar tool ATB Mark

Cracking on Nobby!

nice thorough job Nobby see you next time👍👍😉😉🚂🚂 atb Kev

Hi Nobby, if you have any left over from another engine, I would use Graphited Yarn as the packing material rather than teflon tape. You will get a better seal I think as well as shaft lubrication. I have not used Teflon for gland packing so the choice is yours. Regards from Australia.

Thank you so much for the kind mention Nobby (you have a wonderful channel) and loved Mrs Nobby’s card too! 🌻

I just finished a PM Research camelback drill press kit, my 3rd PMR kit, and had the same offset issue with some of the castings in it. While I love their kits, I think their QC has fallen off a bit. When building the same drill press kit, Joe Pie had castings that were so far off that he junked them and machined them from stock instead!

Nice video Nobby, I don’t think I would machine the spokes, just fettle the edges. ATB Mark

I reckon you've done a right good job on that flywheel Nobby, I think you're right being happy with it now mate - Cheers Jim

Hi Nobby Another very interesting video, fly wheel looks good

Nice work, Nobby!!

Nice fussy work, I could see myself just start cutting and then crying about it , just say I don't have as much patience as you. Enjoyed the vid, cheers!

keep warm Nobby and look forward to the progress in the next few videos👍👍👍👍🥶🥶😉😉🚂🚂🚂🚂 looking good regards Kev

Thanks, Nobby For the kind shout-out It is much appreciated

Hi Nobby, I can understand your disappointment with that Fly- Wheel, from what I could see it looked a long way off , Think you,ve done a cracking job to get it to ehrer it is now, looks really good mate. Stay well Kind Regards, Mike

Very nice work mr Nobby. I know you have concerns, but I think you have done the best you could.

Thankyou for detailed description of setups

very good job nobby

👍🏼 great!

Gret!

Maybe a simpler way to make those spacers would be to make them over length, measure how much each one is too long, then return to the lathe and face to length.

That’s really coming together Nobby 😀 nice precise work. Big fan of EKP too.

G'day Nobby, again mate I echo my previous comments....its been terrific following along vicariously with you during this build....thanks for going to the effort of filming it all - Cheers Jim

Its coming along nicely 👍

Hi Nobby Other interesting video, all looking good

Very nice work mr Nobby. It’s looking great so far.

Coming along nicely Nobby. I would clamp the fixture plate on the mill bed and do away with the vice. It will give more room and be more sturdy too.

Looking good nobby

Hello Nobby, More good progress... Well done... Take care. Paul,,

Coming along nicely Nobby!

Usually the spacers are used to set the carriage stop to cut a part to length. Give that a go.

Looking Great Nobby👍👍👍👍😉😉 see you next time atb Kev

good video nobby

Great outcome Nobby. Glad you are going to skim off the back of the crank casting. You won't regret doing it. Will be in touch with some suggestions on machining the flywheel and accurately lining uo the piston rod hole on the crosshead. Regards from Australia.

Missed this one Nobby, glad I found it.....nice solution and nice build - Cheers Jim

Hi Nobby just to let you know i have emailed you earlier today cheers Kev