Pool Bonding, Building the Equipotential Bond. On the Electricians in Action Everyday @ 9:00 am

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[@luiscolon4961]

COACH I BEEN BUSY LATELY BUT IM STILL HERE APPRECIATING YOU WORK!!LETS GET IT!!

[@FixItWithMe]

So basically u just have to attach anything metal to each other and it has to terminate on something that u already bonded like the pump again. I have a heater that has two lugs for attaching the 8 AWG bond copper wire. One lug has a copper wire that bonds to the pump. Can I then use the second lug to attach to the saltwater generator? Or does it have to be attached to the same lug as the one the pump is attached to? Thanks!

[@bruce87bruce]

My only question is….do you connect the bonded items to the power supply ground? Wouldn’t this create multiple paths for current to take if there was a fault in the middle? Or do you not connect the ground from the panel to the pool bonded? I ask this because I learned when adding a sub panel (outbuilding) there must be an independent ground conductor from the main to sub panel. Using a separate ground rod at the outbuilding and bonding the ground to neutral is a no no. Essentially you either have 2 separated bonded circuits that are grounded at one point each. Or you have a circuit that is fully bonded, and grounded at the main panel, and the ground within the pool bond. (((Or is the bond around the pool not really considered grounded, even tho it is in the ground, but not on a ground rod?)))

[@ramirez7852]

Why you choose to add grounding rings out of the 5' foot rule around the pool and if it is not the pool maintenance or motor room.

[@Take-Me-To-]

I’ve never seen an above ground pool with any of this. Except for code reasons, is it absolutely necessary?

[@emilioescobedo3024]

Can I use grey UF-B 14-2 for running circuit to pool?

[@JPP2672]

Section 680 is a Train Wreck. 😢

[@JesusHernandez-je9sr]

Coach ?start from the heater and from the heater going in to the main panel right

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Definitely work with your electrical inspector, typically you do not go to the homes main electrical panel but work with your electrical inspector

[@91BerettaGT]

Does the bonding copper get sent through it's own ground rod, or is it just a method of connecting everything. Or is the 18-24" ring around the pool, at the 6" depth satisfying the need to not use a "ground rod" (please forgive my ignorance and terminology, advanced DIYER who doesn't want to kill his kids (or wife) and can't afford the $9k i was quoted). The pool I chose came with lugs on each metal uprise for the "spider" and the pump motor. I haven't chosen a ladder yet but it's on a wooden deck so I will be finding a Water Bond Fitting appropriate for the plumbing.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Definitely make sure you work with your electrical inspector but typically no you will not be driving your ground rod for the pool bonding itself.

[@91BerettaGT]

@@ElectricalCodeCoach thank you. I think I understand it better simply because of your video. Bonding isn’t a circuit but more so a way to make every potential energy source on the same plane. Which in my brain theory gives a path for electricity to go hopefully instead of a human.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Pool Bonding "informational purposes only": kzbin.info/aero/PLJokxpBhbuUd0JH-SkjvaVatq069whqne

[@tortillajackson7694]

$9k?!?! Holy crap I need to start charging about 3 times more than I do lol

[@suemoravec422]

what if my pool pump is 30 feet from my pool? do I go all the way around and run the copper wire 30 feet?

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Great question! definitely work with your inspector and a qualified licensed electrician but according to the NEC yes you will have to bond the circulation system

[@rodneybrown305]

Have a quick question. Can I lay the bond wire around the pool than run "legs" using the correct burial split bolt to tie the legs to the loop to instead of spider webing ? I have other metal compontes that are in th area that will have to be bonded.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Definitely work with your electrical inspector but yes it does not have to be a continuous loop according to the NEC

[@rodneybrown305]

@@ElectricalCodeCoach Thank you and I will be dealing witht the inspector as well.

[@WisconsiNater]

Do you need to ground it? I've seen a lot of information about bonding but how do you (should you) ground it?

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Are you talking about establishing a grounding electrode system at the pool or its sub panel?

[@WisconsiNater]

@@ElectricalCodeCoach The only route to ground I'd have is via the motor to a GFCI outlet. Do I not need to ground the bonded system around the pool?

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4Wrcpxpnbhjps0

[@craigw7471]

What do you do with newer pools that the only metal is the wall. The bottom track, top rails and posts are all plastic. Is there any point in doing a copper ring all the way around the pool?

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Great question, yes you still have to install a proper bonding system, you're trying to bring the ground around the pool to the same potential.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4Wrcpxpnbhjps0

[@emilioescobedo3024]

Where are you getting your ground source, is it when you come from when you connect #12 to your heater,if so were going from #12 to #8 ground wire?

[@gerard143]

lets say this was a spa.... and two sides of the spa were up against a structure and it would never be an area that you would step on. can you disregard the 18-24 inches away requirement in that area and just run the loop directly under the outermost edge of tub on those two sides, and the two sides that you would have area you could step on surround tub place it 18-24" out in those areas? Or would I literally have to dig under the structure and make sure its 18-24" even in those areas that have a structure over it that it would be impossible for me to stand on. To me, I say to myself why the hell would I need to go 18-24" out in areas that I cant even stand because it has a structure over it. Instead just run wire on outer perimeter of tub, then on the front side and other side where I can stand have the loop extend the 18-24" they want in code.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

Are you talking about a hot tub?

[@gerard143]

@@ElectricalCodeCoach he’s a self contained hot tub.

[@ElectricalCodeCoach]

i would contact a qualified licensed electrician and work with you local electrical inspector, average above ground hot tubs do not usually fall into the scope of this video

[@gerard143]

@@ElectricalCodeCoach in my case bonding is needed. B) Bonding. Bonding by metal-to-metal mounting on a common frame or base shall be permitted. The metal bands or hoops used to secure wooden staves shall not be required to be bonded as required in 680.26. Equipotential bonding of perimeter surfaces in accordance with 680.26(B)(2) shall not be required to be provided for spas and hot tubs where all of the following conditions apply: (1) The spa or hot tub shall be listed as a self-contained spa for aboveground use. (2) The spa or hot tub shall not be identified as suitable only for indoor use. (3) The installation shall be in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and shall be located on or above grade. (4) The top rim of the spa or hot tub shall be at least 710 mm (28 in.) above all perimeter surfaces that are within 760 mm (30 in.), measured horizontally from the spa or hot tub. The height of nonconductive external steps for entry to or exit from the self-contained spa shall not be used to reduce or increase this rim height measurement.