Measurements for Drafting with Bare Essentials: Bras Third Edition, Wire Diameter/Width

[@Whistlewalk]

I ditto Marti's comment below. I don't wear a wired bra unless there is a really good reason to. They leave bruises on my ribs. Otherwise, wow, great video. I've been looking a fair while for a good 'class' on how to make my own bras. Thank you. I will see how the measurements as described here work for me and then decide on whether I need to take the course.

[@Porcelynne]

The book covers how to draft a bra starting from a wire. This allows an accurate shape for the breast tissue. Once you have that developed, you can take that information to create a non-wired bra. Without a wire, you won't get the full support even for a well drafted wireless bra unless you are a smaller cup. Larger cup sizes usually have folding of the side seam and the bridge because there is no wire to hold its shape to the body on a wireless bra. Increasing the band height in the back can help support it, but it would almost need to be as equal to the height in the front to fully balance the breast on the body without a wire.

[@HopePetunias]

All the way in South Africa, and I just discovered your book. What an amazing resource, and this video is INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you! 🌻

[@mariannebrkkan3341]

Bought your book yesterday from Bwear in Sweden. I love it. Mari Anne from Norway

[@Porcelynne]

Thanks so much. I'm glad you enjoy it.

[@angelafindlay7123]

Amazing skills thank you Jennifer Fairbanks for shate I apprecilove you from your learner in uk London

[@Porcelynne]

You are so welcome!

[@martimorgan4788]

Curious about a non-wire bra - I have my wired bra for when I go out , but I am more comfortable in a wireless bra.

[@Porcelynne]

The book covers how to draft a bra starting from a wire. This allows an accurate shape to the breast tissue. Once you have that developed, you can take that information to create a non-wired bra.

[@jillberryman3719]

What is that cool tape measure thing you used called?

[@Porcelynne]

This item? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PWL4VLZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@jillberryman3719]

@@Porcelynne Yes! Thank you!

[@jubs1533]

I've never seen a compass like that and think it would be easier to use than what I have, which is one with a point and arms that you pull out to the measurement you want. What is your type of compass called, please?

[@Porcelynne]

The name on that one was called a "Slide N' Measure Compass". I got it on Amazon.

[@Porcelynne]

The name on that one was called a "Slide N' Measure Compass". I got it on Amazon.

[@jubs1533]

Found it - thanks 👍.

[@journeywithluvhurts1252]

Brought your book with recommendation from LizSew. I have been having trouble finding bras that fit and all books I find have you drafting bras with a wire but all the wires I brought either are to long or not wide enough. I think I am like a 44 K/L/orM I tried a bra pattern that is a 44J and it’s to small I was thinking I could just grade it up to find my fit and work from there to make a pattern that fits me. I truly want and need bras that fit and it’s hard to find places that have large enough bras that isn’t up stairs and I at this moment can’t get up stairs (above knee amputee). I want to feel complete enough and a fitting bra is my last thing to feel complete since my accident.

[@Porcelynne]

Finding the right wire is probably the hardest thing to do. Many wires can actually be bent to fit the body a little better, but once you bend them, they shouldn't be splayed much. Grading up a cup size might do the trick, but you will need to understand how to grade the right size cup for the right size wire, and that is tricky. My Eve for Vertical wire cups might help you understand wire line grades a little better, if you compare the grades for each wire size.

[@journeywithluvhurts1252]

Porcelynne just tried multiply wires of the larger size and there to big so it looks like I need a smaller wire but a larger cup 😢. Do you sell a bundle of different size wires? Or do I have to buy a set of each?

[@Porcelynne]

@@journeywithluvhurts1252 I have a wire grouping of all the wires, but those are designed for people making custom for others since there would be a bunch you wouldn't use. You can return anything that doesn't work. If you haven't already, start with a wire trace of your breast root. Here is a blog post about it. blog.porcelynne.com/a-wire-that-fits/

[@kameamepopcorn9660]

Hello from France I have issues with any (wires), because it's definitivelyvnot comfortable for me. But I wear a very large cup. What do you suggest then? Thank you.

[@Porcelynne]

I understand where you come from. After having my daughter, my body is very sensitive to having any pressure on my rib cage. If you will be drafting from my book, you will need a wire to draft with so you get a fit down pat. This will help you create designs specifically for your breast shape. Once you have an encompassing overall fit, you can create a sloper, then manipulate the sloper to create any design, including non wired bras. I have even had some of my drafters create "wired" bra patterns and not use the wire, but you have to start with one that fits regardless if you end up using one.

[@Leoom22]

Hi! I just bought your book and I'm super excited to start. The issue I'm having is the wire I have/plan to use appears to be like a vertical wire but is smaller than what your vertical wire chart has. I'm having a hard time seeing the pencil on the paper when your explaining what to do in my case in the video. Are you drawing the horizontal line from point to point from the inside of the wire?It appeared for the first drawn circle you didn't do it at the top of the tip like you did in the 2nd drawing but I'm not sure. Thanks!

[@Porcelynne]

You can trace your wire and fold it in quarters to find the center to better determine the with. If you join the Support for bare Essentials group on facebook, there are a few documents that show you how to determine it. They were created by fellow drafters and not by myself, but they explain a different method to figure it out.

[@mohjaannunu5505]

hi ,i bought the book recently, i had an issue measuring for horizontal bust and vertical..i went to your website to do the calculation ..but i couldnt find the calculator....please help me understant where and how you get horizontal and verical bust measurements...do you mean 1/4bust circumference??

[@Porcelynne]

The Calculator is found at blog.porcelynne.com/porcelynne-pattern-drafting-and-manipulation-method-bra-making-calculator/ The math to calculate the horizontal and vertical bust amounts in in the book, but the calculator does the work for you. I have also made some adjustments to the calculator that add more accuracy when determining the curves on the cup draft.

[@phyllisweaver8911]

I have a serious question! I am a woman in her mid sixties and I have lost most if not all of the muscle that pulls the breast up where they belong. They are flat and hang very low. Im also a big girl. Where and how do you find where your breast measurement should be if it will not be in the right place to design a bra or blouse ???????

[@Porcelynne]

You usually need to start with your best fitting bra to measure. If they aren't in the right place, start there knowing you will usually need to make several before you have one that supports where the breast should be.

[@BeekepinginNAZ]

Hi, yes I am a guy, yes I wear a bra,I have desire to make my own because 40A is hard to find pretty bras.

[@Porcelynne]

There are a lot of great patterns out there in a 40A, but with any pattern, some types of alterations will need to be made. I believe the free pattern I have in the back of the book is available in a 40A. Good luck on your adventure to make pretty bras.

[@BeekepinginNAZ]

@@Porcelynne thank you.

[@ToriLynnH]

You still sell wires?

[@Porcelynne]

Yes I do. They are on my website under lingerie supplies Porcelynne.com. I also have them on Amazon and Etsy. Not all the styles are on those other sites, but all styles are on my website.

[@tinayang3845]

"why can't I do this math?" It is so much easier in centimeters 😉

[@Porcelynne]

I wish I was better at metric. But I do have a calculator on my blog that does the math for you in metric or imperial.